New Ender 3 v2 Profile for cura 4.11

Hey folks and welcome. Today I'm going to show you where to get my all new Creality Ender 3 v2 profile for Kira that works with Kira 4.11 so stay tuned. Hey folks TechNibbers here. You know every once in a while Kira will release a version that pretty much breaks all of your prior profiles so it's that day today we are re-uploading my Ender 3 v2 profile. I'll tell you where you can get it at the end of this video but for right now let's go over some of these settings real quick because we're making some quick updates and I want to make sure that everything's correct. So you can see we have the layer height set to 0.16 initial layer height 0.24. That is going to be a medium quality model. If you want a finer layer height go ahead and add it in here. The wall thickness is 1.6. Now generally I set this to 2.0 but for my profile I have set it to 1.6 to reduce the wall layers by one. Now the reason that I set it to that extra wall layer is to ensure that no infill shows through and also to be able to print without any infill at all if I want to by just turning the infill on and off. Now five is generally the minimum number of walls you're going to want if you're printing with no infill but we'll get into that in another video. For now let's continue on. Top and bottom thickness is going to be five layers so it's 0.68 millimeters and the reason that five layers here is different than five layers here is because the initial layer height and the layer height. So the layer height is 0.16 it's slightly more than a quarter of what the line width is so they're not they're not the same value so keep that in mind. Infill density we are going to set to a solid 18 percent that's not too bad generally you want to be between 15 and 20 and our printing temperature we're going to leave at 220 we will reduce it based on what we see on our plastic filaments in most cases. Now that that's done I can see there is obviously an error down here it's nice when you see this orange popping up because that is generally the system telling you hey are you sure this is right you might want to double check it so obviously I'm not going to be trying to print at 370 millimeters per second and in fact with these machines if you tried to print that fast it wouldn't go that fast there are firmware limits that you cannot supersede by changing the g-code in here you actually have to change the firmware. A good starting point for the Ender 3 v2 though it does have a pretty decent clip to it is 80 millimeters per second now that's going to get you very good detail and a very nice model without taking forever. If you need a slightly higher quality model reduce this number to between 50 and 60 and if you want the model to go a little faster feel free to crank it up to 100 and 120 somewhere in there now you can put it all the way up to 150 which is the max but the higher it goes the more likely you are going to cause vibrations in your machine that will over time loosen parts of the machine and cause vibration ringing and things like that that you don't want in your print so the Ender 3 v2 is fairly capable of running at its maximum speed efficiently but if you're going to be running it at its maximum speed a lot make sure that you are checking all of the nuts and making sure everything is tight and square after running a couple of prints because you don't want it to just wobble itself apart I've seen it happen it is not pretty so let's roll on to the next section that is going to be travel we do have our retraction enabled I see another error here in the retraction distance I actually want this to be 5.5 now with the Ender 3 v2 it was 6.5 in some cases I've seen it go down to 4.5 that 1.5 you just saw was what I was using for a direct drive machine which this machine is not so this retraction distance is specifically tailored to my Ender 3 v2 machine and works really really well we are going to go ahead and leave the retraction speed where it is and we don't need to mess with any of the retraction settings further than that so this part here is something that I like to leave on but I want to warn you this is going to add to your print time now avoid printed parts while traveling and avoid supports while traveling will keep the nozzle from running into a part that's already made while it's pathing to the next point on the model to print however since it is not going from point a to point b in most cases it's going around an object it does add to your print time on each layer so if you're taking too long to print feel free to try turning one of these off sometimes you can get away with it the avoid supports when traveling usually you get away with that if you're on a tree support system but if you're doing just vertical line support you left you definitely want to leave that on so you aren't knocking them over and this is a PLA profile so print cooling is turned on and it is maxed out I do have generate support turned on the support pattern is set to zigzag and I'm going to go ahead and change that because my normal tree support or my normal support structure is tree support and I'm also going to change the overhang angle now I know from doing my overhang test that I can go up to about a 65 degree angle before seeing any droopage on this machine so I'm going to stay below that parameter in order to keep my model nice and clean and I'm going to go with a 60 degree angle here support pattern is not really important and I'm going to go ahead and leave it with lines support density is kind of important that determines how much support is put underneath the object how thick it is okay then there is support infill okay the support infill pattern is this pattern right here and in most cases I mean we don't even need the support infill you do want the support interface turned on and my build plate adhesion is set to a skirt now in previous versions it had been set to a raft so if you would like the raft back this is where you change that you simply click on skirt and select it from the drop down menu I've since switched to the skirt because I've upgraded to a slightly better build plate and I have really really good adhesion on the ender 3 v2 build plate versus the ender 3 pro which was that magnetic mat so I don't really need the raft as much if I'm printing a large flat part or a part with angled corners that I don't want to lift away then I'll print it with a raft but generally only after I already mess up a print and realize hey I should probably put a raft on that one but for the most part you save a lot of plastic not using it I love rafts people argue with me all day when I use them that they're stupid and not to bother but they do have a purpose so that is not what I'm trying to say the rest of this stuff is special modes dual extrusion and experimental not really applying to the ender 3 v2 so there you have it there is our profile we are going to upload this this will be up on my github and it is going to be the 2021 version so make sure you grab the right one there are legacy versions if you're using an older version of kira but if you are using kira 4.11 you need this version this version will also work with older versions it's just the older version doesn't tend to work with this one and I've seen that with a lot of people's profiles I see chep just had to update his profiles as well and I've had some comments and requests for me to update them and that's one of the reasons that I filed this under the kira questions label because everybody wants to know where to get a good profile for the ender 3 v2 so hopefully this was helpful to you go ahead and grab the profile at the link down below if you want to you can always rewind and scrub through the settings and then just copy them line for line there isn't really anything in here that I didn't go over that I use in my profile so if just go in here and click advanced it'll show you all of the settings that I have open and you'll be able to just follow the video really easily if you'd like to take it up a step from there and fine-tune the profile even more once you have it where you want it then you can go ahead and click expert and that'll give you even more settings or even all which will open all of the settings and then you can kind of dial it exactly where you want it but this should be a great starting point for you let me know how this pro uh how this works out for you this profile uh and definitely leave me a comment down below if you have any kira questions there is a kira questions playlist i'll put a card up over there yeah over there i'm telling you you can click on to go to the playlist there's over 30 videos in that playlist i answer your questions all the time i love doing it so if you have a question like i said leave it in the comments don't forget to hit that like button and subscribe to the channel because we have a lot more coming at you in the coming days pretty soon you'll see the full-on review of my creality halot one i am loving this machine by the way and we have a lot more fun stuff coming down the pipe so that's gonna be it for this one guys we will see you in the next one tech never is out stick around guys i got another youtube recommended video for you right here and if you haven't already subscribe subscribe subscribe make sure that you smash that like button we'll see you in the next one tech never is out