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Video Summary
AI Generated
This video provides a step-by-step guide on how to properly level the build plate of the Creality Halot One MSLA resin 3D printer to ensure successful print adhesion and prevent screen damage.
Hey folks, Tech Nibbers here. Today we are tackling some more maintenance on the
Halot Sky over, excuse me, the Halot One over here. This is Creality MSLA machine. It uses
resin to 3D print and I'm going to show you how to properly level your bed. So before we get into
that, make sure you reduce your Z offset on that little red subscribe button down there and give
that notification bell a good first layer squish so you can get notified when we post new videos.
That being said, let's jump over to the printer and see how to level this out.
So here we are with the Halot One. If you saw my last video, we just replaced the FVP film for the
VAT on this machine. I definitely encourage you to check that video out if you're looking into
maintenance and replacing the VAT. However, today we're going to be dealing with this and this is
the build plate. So with resin printers, generally it's a backwards build. The Z is inverted from
when you would do a machine like the Ender over there, a Cartesian or something like that where
it builds on the build plate and builds up. This is the build plate and we lower it to the glass
here. We make sure it's level and then we put our VAT on. So we need to do that before we install
the VAT. The way to do this is to take your handy dandy Allen wrench that came with the printer.
You're going to loosen all four of these screws here on the side. One more thing we want to do
before we lower the VAT here is make sure that our plate is clean. So you don't want to leave
any resin residue on the screen there. If you have resin in your machine or your build plate is
dirty, you will need nitrile gloves for this process in order to be safe. Mine was just
thoroughly clean and I haven't installed the VAT, put resin in it yet. So for now I'm okay sliding
by without using the gloves, but if I didn't know for a fact that it was immaculately clean,
I wouldn't be touching it without my nitrile gloves. Very, very important and it's important
you get nitrile because this stuff will eat through vinyl and other types of plastic,
which renders the gloves pointless. So now that we have it loosened,
you can see that it wobbles here, which means it's adjustable. So now all we need to do is go down
here into our settings and we're going to go and hit print or no, excuse me, we're going to hit
settings. You need to go all the way back. Okay. Settings, other settings. Sorry guys,
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There we go. So we're going to hit leveling. It's going to lower down to our build plate
and you'll see this thing wiggling around a little bit. You want to make sure that these
screws are completely loose before you start this process, because if it's down too low,
the pressure from the motor and the Z screw can crack your screen and you don't want to do that.
So make sure that it's moving on all four of these. And as it hits the bottom, it'll kind of
rest where it needs to. So we're just going to wait for it to go ahead and touch here. It does
take a minute. It goes kind of slow. It's one of the reasons that this machine is so quiet,
because it's not really in need of a lot of up and down speed. It does a whole layer at a time
instead of having to print layer by layer. And it makes it a lot faster printing process,
as well as a lot more accurate. So we're touching the build plate now. As you can see,
I still have a little bit of leeway here. I don't want to push too hard, but I'm going to place a
hand on both sides, making sure that I keep it touching the build plate. And I'm going to tighten
these screws here. The ones we just loosened, there's four of them. And there's one. And just
like with doing the FEP, you want to do opposite corners, get them down, and then do the other
corners, and then go back and tighten everything once you're sure that it's where you want it.
So I have my initial tightness there. Now you can see a little bit better what I'm doing,
just tightening the screws. And I have a nice even lay here. There's no gaps,
and it should work really well. Now, one of the reasons that you do this without the vat on is
because this negates the thickness of that FEP film. So it's going to push up against it really,
really hard. And that's what's going to allow it to release from the film. So you get really
good adhesion to your bed and not so much adhesion to the FEP film, which is exactly what we want.
That is pretty much it. Now that we are done, you go ahead and go back to zero,
and it will lift out of the way so I can install my vat. Once that's done, you can put your resin
in and get a file and get to printing. So let's go ahead and slide this back on. We'll be back to
printing in no time here. You want to make sure that you get both of these in the hole before
you tighten them down. And the instructions do say to tighten them down evenly. So you want to
tighten them both at the same time. You want to make sure it's nice and tight, and then you are
ready to add your resin and get to printing. I'm going to be doing a lot of videos on this machine
coming up, guys. I have several projects that I'm working on for a company I'm closely working with
in the medical industry in South Dakota. So we have some interesting things we're going to be
printing. I definitely recommend you check those videos out. But if you just want to know more
about the Creality resin printer series, definitely stick around because I've got
some really interesting stuff that's going to be coming out of this machine
really shortly. That's going to be it for this video, guys. Thank you for stopping by.
Hope this was helpful for you. Go ahead and leave me any ideas you have for videos or questions you
may have on this machine in the comments, and I'll see what I can do to make that video for you.
That's it, guys. Tech Nibbers out.