You could make 100 jars from these tomatoes — it still won't be enough!

Organic Farming
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2 Video Views·Aug 30, 2026
AI Generated·May contain errors
Video Summary
AI GeneratedThis guide provides essential strategies for late-season tomato care in August, focusing on maximizing harvest and preventing disease. It covers critical pruning techniques, nutrient management to combat late-summer deficiencies, and environmental controls for both outdoor and greenhouse settings to ensure fruits ripen successfully before the autumn chill.
End of August—will these tomatoes ripen in time?
Listen, today I'm going to take you with a secateur,
We'll spend some time together, let's take a look at my tomato plants,
I will tell you right now what else I will be doing,
to harvest as many red tomatoes as possible this season
No, I'll show you what to do with tomatoes, both on the outside and also on the inside.
Listen, outside, my tomatoes—this year for the first time I planted them
Between these stinking flowers of ours and the Turks, that's what it's called.
I'll tell you, it was such a disappointment, because just look how high they are
I'm sorry, but I just feed tomatoes this way.
so that they had so many tomatoes on the bushes,
As you can see here, from bottom to top, several dozen units,
The Turks are also doing well there, and they've grown quite accustomed to being in the middle of it.
There was practically no ventilation, and you saw what kind of July we had.
No, it's non-stop rain, same thing at the beginning of August
And on top of that, we've had non-stop cold nights here; I don't know how it is with you.
But here, in the coming weeks, those nights are going to get colder and colder already.
So it's time to take care of the tomatoes so that we can harvest as many as possible.
And to avoid fungal diseases, we also eat.
Listen, as you can see, we've just had another rainfall.
I spray bacteria every time after it rains, already at this time.
The ones I use for watering the soil.
It's not a magical remedy if such a situation arises,
that there will truly be a connection with cold nights every day,
I mean those ten-degree nights in winter.
It's already very cold, especially since there will be no sun during the day.
just like we woke up today and honestly didn't know,
Will it rain again, or will it be a sunny day?
Fungal diseases can still come to me despite that,
where those products are that are supposed to stop potato blight
They may come to me, and one must reckon with that.
These are not some magical, turbo-chemical gimmicks—just natural ones.
Listen, it's important, first of all, to untie them,
If anything else still needs to be tied up or shortened.
I'll shorten this right here, since this tomato will never ripen anyway.
Ten little one, I took out the one I wanted to show you,
that it didn't have calcium, but it's the same here too.
Everything that has little flowers or tiny tomatoes,
That's what I'm removing, that's immature.
I'll leave a few leaves, but not too many.
They have nothing here but to suspect and water.
No, don't listen, when we're outdoors, well, obviously that's what it is,
that there's no chance of getting the watering right here to make it really excellent.
Many tomatoes, especially large-fruited ones, have this peculiarity,
At that time, they need very little moisture already.
One have only this moisture, which keeps them alive, as if sustaining life.
But they don't have them, look, what ugly leaves.
These are lists that are already beginning to show signs of health problems.
So now it's that moment when we have to finally deal with our tomatoes.
We must clean thoroughly so that no plague may enter here.
Do you see any first such brown leaves over there,
Don't stress about it at all; just go ahead and cut it out.
Also remember that when you move from the sick person to the healthy one,
You absolutely, absolutely must disinfect your tools.
All those brown lists somewhere in between the clusters,
Just like this dried-up old leaf here, we remove everything, listen up,
That's very important—those must not be between the groups.
a sick leaf or a dry one, which we prune, just as I am pruning now
and if they remain somewhere among the bunches, then they will become so dry
Somewhere among the tomatoes, those ones dried up.
As everyone knows, there are already plenty of fungal spores on such a leaf.
And if we take this leaf, we'll leave it between the tomatoes
It is raining today, and in the evening it is very damp.
The next day there is no sun and no wind, so listen up,
All of this causes these fungal diseases to begin developing, one, two, and so on.
If you notice potato blight anywhere on your tomatoes,
so there would be such brown or even black spots forming on the go
or see on the tomatoes that somewhere it's already visible, because potato blight
if you have a tomato, whether it's red or green, it doesn't matter
It becomes such an ugly black, and you can see it right away.
You can't overlook this, as if you could ignore it; you simply can't fail to notice it.
When you see a tomato like that, you absolutely must go in with the spray
And if you want to apply some spray, I recommend you the Refuz spray.
I would spray Refuz Sumina, because it is a product with a very short waiting period.
I just need three or four more days, and then we can eat the next batch of tomatoes.
And if you leave such a bush where potato blight was somewhere there,
Listen up, this potato blight will completely take over your entire bush in 3-4 days.
And additionally, it will move on to other fruits.
Look, here's one such broken shoot, and I absolutely must pull it out from here.
But if I left it there, these leaves here would dry up on it
It's precisely this fungal disease that could quickly develop right here in these tight, narrow cracks.
Same here, you also need to locate the pulse with your fingertip somewhere here, and find out where it originates.
Cut it off so that there are no more ugly leaves between the clusters, between the tomatoes.
No, we just go ahead and remove all those wolves we somehow overlooked somewhere.
all the lists that somehow touch upon our circles right there.
As you can see, here, for example, is one such dry leaf on the tomato plant,
Do that too, right here, try to get it out immediately, so it doesn't stay.
No, I've already trimmed this bush enough; I won't cut it any more, I'll leave it as it is.
I must be there.
So here is the southern side; from this side, the sun will shine beautifully on us.
It will illuminate that tomato for us.
No, there's a good chance all these fruits here will ripen.
Maybe the end of summer will be so tragic that it will be cold, dark, and rainy.
No, then unfortunately, but right after the potato dish, for sure it will cover this here.
I'll have to do the same with this tomato, but now come with me to the greenhouse.
Why don't tomatoes ripen at all by August anymore?
This is caused by several factors.
First of all, we have a shorter day, and much cooler nights.
No, in general we already have less sunlight compared to previous weeks.
Another issue—nutrients are running out.
Many gardeners forget to replenish potassium and phosphorus during heatwaves throughout the season.
A one lack plants, because at the moment in July when the sun shines so intensely
The plant blocks itself automatically and does not absorb as much as it needs.
That's why I so often reminded you during heatwaves to add fertilizer to the water
potassium phosphate and calcium, as calcium also frequently appears on tomatoes
Such a bumpy top that makes these tomatoes look rather unattractive.
No, I don't know. We're in a tunnel now.
As you can see, everything here has been cut.
I haven't pruned tomatoes as severely for several years now as I did in the early years.
I noticed it doesn't make sense to cut them so severely, as tomatoes become less tasty.
That's when they also just develop much worse.
And the more leaves there are, the healthier the entire plant looks.
Now, I'll just trim this here so I have a wider opening.
I must also confess to you right away that I haven't been here for 4-5 days and my hens came in.
which unfortunately also severely damage my tomatoes right now,
But somewhere over there, he's just pecking away and leaves that open tomato.
And if the humidity is too high, some bushes just start getting sick earlier than usual.
But it also happens that somewhere I overlook it, and the tomato, for example, bursts due to excessive watering at that time.
And when it hangs and is very humid, well, it starts to become quite unpleasant.
That's also normal, listen up.
Situations like this must be eliminated, verified, and such a tomato removed from the bush as quickly as possible.
You don't need to completely throw away such a tomato, wasting it, because you can extract seeds from it yourself.
Alright, let's take some shrub or bush, we'll quickly make one here.
Let's take it, let's do what you see here, because it'll just happen to be within reach.
I'll drive down from below, and from above I'm already warning you.
I am inspecting the last cluster, where tomatoes are still forming.
Since those tomatoes aren't here, I'm removing them below.
The tomato plants, which you can see here in excess, I've already moved out so they can have access to light here.
I'll just cut this here, piece by piece.
I'll also trim off all the lower branches that have already been pruned.
I've already scalded and washed the secateurs with potash soap after using them in the garden outdoors.
I'll leave this tomato here; I'll cut it off.
There's nothing down there anymore, not even one leaf here.
We also remove all those that have already borne fruit or failed to set fruit anywhere.
All these unbound leaflets, the ones that are here, likewise failed to form due to the heat, for example.
And how will they receive moisture here now, and they will, because unfortunately, there will also be increased moisture in the tunnel.
No, they'll also be bringing us mushrooms, so we need to get rid of them.
Now I'm just looking and see that we still have some tiny little tomatoes here.
I'll immediately cut them small, because they certainly won't have time to mature for me.
I'm removing this wild one here too and look up.
Listen, up here we have about 2-3 tiny ones, and going upward, quite a few flowers.
Now, so that the plant doesn't unnecessarily strain itself trying to set flowers,
I need to focus on letting these last fruits here ripen fully, then I'll prune them myself.
Just as it suits me roughly, I simply cut off the entire top, and as you can see here on this bush, this is how many tomatoes are left for me.
Let's take a look at what's going on back here.
We have this large-fruited tomato at the back; I need to move this a little bit here.
To make a little transition for you.
Now that I've moved aside, I can see that from this bush a tendril is coming here from over there.
Here there are only flowers, which I no longer expect to bloom for me here.
From above, even another one has twisted himself, who wants to show me that I should delete him too.
No, we're going here to this one from behind, look.
Such beautiful big tomatoes—listen, they're at least a kilogram for sure.
Now we're going.
I'm cutting everything here, just tilting it slightly so I can make sure this is really the wire I want to cut.
But it's happened more than once that I accidentally cut somewhere and it turned out to be the entire group.
No, I'm deleting all these lists here.
Now watch this—I'll show you, using this leaf as an example, that this is not some fungal disease at all.
Only this is shown by the tomato plant's current condition: it is lacking potassium and phosphorus.
Potatoes at the beginning, when tomatoes are missing, turn into such tiny little balls.
Later, they start turning brown inside.
In the end, the entire leaf dries up, just as you've seen some leaves outside.
No, later the plant has entire brown leaves.
The taste of a tomato is getting worse if it's not properly ripened.
It's more watery, there's no such smell, no sweet taste.
So if your tomatoes were somewhat tasteless somewhere, it means that in most cases they lacked potassium.
I'll leave the description of the potassium I use in the video description.
No, now we're going to continue on our way again here.
I'm cutting these shoots here.
Here you are, and this leaf too.
I'm sending it to myself.
Here, from this side, from the outside, these small leaves too.
I don't know if it will be visible on the camera, since it's so hard to get here.
Here too, this leaf.
You see, here we already have the group fully revealed.
There are really tomatoes ready to be picked.
I don't have anything else here, so we've already eaten all of it.
So, really, what should I do?
Don't pick those tomatoes.
I've already removed the entire shrub.
But before us is still the segment on testing the tomatoes I grew this year.
They still need to hang around for a few more days so there's something to record.
No, but from here on up, I can delete everything.
Everything that you see here, anything that touches the top, I'm removing it myself.
And now, here's my very own pro tip, which I've introduced in my routine this year.
I laid out a piece of white gauze on the tunnel wall, where the tomatoes are growing.
This is the southern side of the page.
Here, the most intense light reaches in every season.
As usual, I always start shielding the tunnels from the top in June, so it won't be so hot.
That's why my tomatoes set fruit right from the bottom.
Look at how beautifully these tomatoes are tied up—they'll now go into processing.
Many of you have a problem where tomato flowers start forming only about half a meter to one meter above the ground.
Most of my bushes are, well, you can hardly see them now, since this is already the stage where...
where most of the tomatoes have already been processed or eaten.
Generally, we must remember that in spring, we need to already neatly cover the tunnels by the beginning of June.
Another thing is that this year we have just installed this yarn on the wall.
She also just significantly reduced the light and temperature reaching the shrubs.
But with the extremely hot summers we've been having lately, with temperatures even reaching 40 degrees in the shade,
That wall heats up our space to 50 degrees and even higher.
And because of that very thread, these tomatoes are much better off, more tolerable weather-wise.
And another thing is that now that we have covered it with this fiber,
No shrubs, leaves that are already too large touch my tunnel walls.
They are always moist by that time in the morning.
And how moist is it, how does it feel when the tomato leaf touches the wall?
No to very quickly do fungal diseases enter.
And because it is shielded, such situations simply do not occur here at all.
There's a double scaffold in my tunnel.
The difference between the polycarbonate rod and the lower rod is 10 cm.
Listen, between you and me, there's already so much ventilation going on.
That nothing else comes to those my leaves.
No, but is such a tomato possible, like the one that was planted?
Was sown at the end of March and still has plenty of green tomatoes.
Which ones, as you see, are only just beginning to prepare for ripening.
Is it worth keeping? Should it still be fertilized with something?
How do you water all of this? Well, the answer is actually very difficult.
It all depends. It depends on which regions we live in.
Just like here in Greater Poland, I live in a warmer region.
And additionally, I have tomatoes in the tunnel, so there's a very high chance,
So that tomato ripens. And what do I do with it now?
Just as you see, I'm revealing him the same way I did the other one.
I remove all the shoots that have flowers somewhere over there.
Look at how hard these plants would have to struggle just to keep this going
I tried to tie up all the little flowers.
I remove all the lists that are hiding tomatoes somewhere here from me.
Regarding fertilization, judging by the tomato leaves just now,
that he is healthy and shows me no deficiencies
I didn't fertilize it with anything. But if I see that it's having problems with potassium,
No, I'll mix the fertilizer with water here, just like when watering.
I'll deliver it, because they can't be lacking potassium.
Those tomatoes would ripen much, much more slowly.
a for a moment, September we'll have.
I already told you earlier that this is the last time, because I only pulled an all-nighter like this for exams.
And additionally, these seeds came to me, such ones from somewhere abroad.
They arrived late, but I tested them this year anyway.
I know this is the last time for me with such a deadline.
That's not why I care, that's not why I'm going through all this, just to worry later on.
Will it reach me? I decidedly prefer the sowing method I've been practicing for years.
and I start in mid-February, at the latest by early March
and thanks to this, all these tomatoes you see here,
Most of them are already gathered, and the ones that remain will definitely ripen for me as well.
There's a bigger problem with those types sown late.
Also, I'm removing all these lists here that are above the groups.
We remove everything, all the shoots that still want to bloom flowers.
So, we're slicing them. This is called slicing, meaning cutting these tomatoes short.
to a level such that I prune a few pairs of leaves above the clusters,
So, as we have these tomatoes here, the bunch remains, and here there is still another leaf.
It's so hard to see here because these bushes at the back are still pushing in on me.
You have tomatoes, so better tied than me—then it will be obvious.
No, and now that I look again, how some leaves touch my bunches,
No, I'll remove this here too, so nothing touches my little tomatoes, my fruits.
Here, you see, don't you? If this leaf touches my tomato, I'll remove this leaf right here.
And if any leaves have come loose somewhere, they must absolutely be removed.
As for watering, at this time, everything obviously depends on that as well.
but if, like me, you have a lot of organic matter in the soil,
things that beautifully store moisture for a long time and also release it gradually over a long period
We need to adjust our watering and not water them too much.
While the tomatoes are green, you may need to water them more.
At the moment they have already started to color, meaning they have already reached their target size.
Let's start giving them only as much water as needed to survive.
If the situation arises that you would already like to completely end the season,
or are you already tired, or do you have gardens in places where you have to commute there?
Here, take these tomatoes; you can pick the green ones.
As long as there's no potato blight, you can just harvest them and pack them into containers.
We pack tomatoes that are just about to ripen.
Those that have already reached the target size, just take a look at this group.
These tomatoes won't ripen if I put them in the boxes now.
These tomatoes here are already the size they should be and will ripen fully in the boxes.
The same situation here as well.
You can see from the leaves that there's a potassium deficiency, as yellow spots are already beginning to appear.
Moreover, the leaves around the edges are drying up.
We need to approach here with fertilizer to feed them once more.
We need to send all of this.
It's ugly here; once I had to pull the wolf away from here, and now I have to tear off the entire stalk.
But listen, such places are the worst thing that could happen, because in these places we often bring in diseases ourselves.
Oh, here I have this situation where there was a cord here, a leaf from the other side, and this watering.
I keep watering with water from the barrel, and I still use acids and bacteria until the very end of the season.
You know what, I'll even pour that potassium over the bushes that somewhere show a lack of it.
I won't spray them anymore; I'll just water them, because the temperatures won't be so high anymore.
So they can boldly receive it directly through the root, because they will be drawing it through that root.
Here, these little ends, these bushes that have only a few remaining fruits, already need to be cleared out.
That way, there will also be more space for other bushes, and those that are here now need to be gathered and simply processed or eaten.
I'm pushing it here too, but not because here the thrust is going, I can't, but you can see a leaf left over from previous gardening work here.
which is already dried up, which is very unsightly, must definitely be pulled out.
Now we carefully proceed with this cut.
We need to pay close attention to doing all of this as well as possible, just so that air circulation can be improved.
If we look from above, as if Grzesiek had taken a camera, you'd see how loose it is down here from below, there's fairly good circulation.
From above, there is a forest up there, and at this point, I must eliminate that forest.
No, and listen up—take those brooms with you to work, take some potash soap, and clean yourselves thoroughly behind every bush, preferably.
Just as I was coming in from the courtyard here into the tunnel, I quickly took my toothbrush, put some potassium soap on it, and poured boiling water over it.
You should actually do it at every bush, because fungal diseases are such nuisances that you can't even see them at first.
Gardeners also sometimes confuse fungal diseases with leaf changes that are not diseases, but simply nutrient deficiencies.
But if you look at me for longer, you know I've already shown many times what deficiencies look like and how to fix them, so you won't end up with those ugly tomatoes covered in leaves somewhere.
But by that time, it will now be even uglier. We're simply approaching autumn, and each plant in the garden is gradually finishing its season.
One has to come to terms with it.
