Giant Swell Turns This Slab Into a MONSTER (Indonesia)

We are tangled in a complete knot. I think I look back and say, take off your leash. Squad. I think it's offshore. So clean. Another day. We're here. We're pulling up to the best ride you've ever seen. My back has absorbed more sun than a dinosaur. Wow. Wow. Wow. Wow. Wow. Wow. Wow. Wow. Wow. Wow. Wow. Big clam. Oh my gosh. Oh my gosh. What do we think? A couple of good ones? What do you think, Tosh? What's going down? Well, it's definitely a little spooky out there. Proper is a little right slab gets right there. So hopefully this gets more consistent, no more clamps and we get big two. Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. All right. Oh my gosh. Last time I was here is 19 years ago. I did a boat trip when I was 12 years old with McCullough Jones, Travis Otter, Mason Hogue, Brown riding Metcalf, all these legends, Matt Young. And it's crazy to be back here. We surfed this wave a lot. Tap back in. This is definitely the biggest head. That was a good one. I just want to pause the video real quick so I can break down this situation that happened to me. As you can see, the waves are pumping, the swells rising, there's cleanup sets. I'm starting to get the flow here and noticing that there's some bigger sets that are coming in, but kind of faking everyone outside. And then they'll really double up to the inside and be these perfect waves that were going unwritten. So I started kind of hunting the inside, but this one didn't work. I see that this might be the cleanup set, but then last second I pause everyone's scratching out and I pause and turn a little bit left because it's doubling up and I'm thinking that maybe it's just going to throw on the inside reef. As I do it, there's someone to the left of me that continues paddling to the right of me and he goes right through my leash. So my leash is in a loop behind me. He paddled and his nose went under through my leash under his belly. And now we are tangled in a complete knot, which is not what you want in this circumstance, especially looking at there's an even bigger set coming. We're going to get cleaned up. Now, usually we experienced this at pipeline sometimes because there's such a tight crowd and we're all moving it. Usually the rule of thumb is someone has to take off their leash. In this circumstance, we're sitting really far out to swim into the beach is pretty treacherous. So you don't really want to be without a board. I think I look back and say, take off your leash, which might be the last thing this guy wanted to hear. But now we're stuck together. We're tethered and I'm getting, I'm getting pulled back right here. I try to take off my leash and I couldn't take off my leash. Instead, we're dealing with this situation. I jump off my board. I get under it, which was really nice. And it was kind of, I didn't get too smoked, but my boards getting dragged against his board right now. And I'm getting pulled even further back with the thought that there's probably another wave coming. He ended up breaking his board and it freed us. So boom, I see that I'm not going to get caught inside again. Kind of check back, making sure he's okay. You can see right here. I kind of redo my leash just to make sure it's all still on and boom, right into it. Here's a bomb set in this situation. I'm like, I'm not sure if I'm too far in or too far out, but I'm paddling as hard as I can and keeping very, very calm so that I can clearly make a decision that is best towards my intention of getting the best wave I can possibly get right here. I see what it's about to do. I see it's going to be a nug and I activate. Nice job. I kind of stalled too much. Absolutely vaporized and I get pretty held under. Blocking, making sure I don't hit the reef. Come up right here. Now it's really shallow in here. It's like maybe three, four feet deep and all this water is sucking out. So this is not the situation you want to be in. I think I ended up holding onto my board just to try to keep me away from the reef, but I'm just like, it's like wrestling with a gator. And then now I'm in a position where all of this water on the inside is getting sucked out over the shelf. So it's really not a place you want to be in. This is where a lot of great reef cuts come from. The situation you can see it kind of sucking out right there, but I get under this and I'm okay. I survived. I inhaled a lot of water and that was just an exciting moment. That's one of the reasons why I surf right there. Surf trip hacks. I don't know why warm people don't eat while they surf. When we're going on these trips, I feel like the last two days I've probably surfed like 12 hours maybe. And to keep the muscles, the fatigue, everything at bay, I bring a couple of little cool supplements. Number one, Perfect Aminos electrolytes. I'm not sponsored by them at all, but putting that in my water and drinking it all day makes me feel like adding water to my wet sponge muscles. After that, foreign waters. Especially pre-afternoon session when I'm absolutely beat, but the waves are still firing. Like a nice little pick-me-up, but it's not too much. It's not jittery and crazy. And a whole package from Heart & Soil. Basically beef organs, that kind of primal nutrient hit to help me be able to surf longer and bring a little sun dry shackaloha. A little bit of water in the first one. Thank you, thank you, thank you. How do you get in over here?