Behind the Counter at a Japanese Master's Handcrafted Soba Restaurant in Asakusa

This is behind the counter at a local Japanese handcrafted soba shop. Today, I'm going deep into the kitchen of this hidden soba shop tucked away in the back streets of Asakusa, Tanzoan Kenjiro. Opened 18 years ago, it's become a beloved soba shop among the neighborhood locals, not only for its handmade soba crafted each and every day, but also its carefully prepared seasonal dishes complementing their wide selection of sake. And from what I've heard, this shop is more than just a soba crafts. There's something uniquely special about this place. So my goal in this one is to find out what it is. And it starts this morning. Good morning, everyone. I am back in Tokyo's Asakusa area to take you to this shop behind me. So excited for this one because they hand make their own soba. And I wanted to take you guys through the entire process. Can't wait to get this one started. All we have to do is wait for the owner to arrive. Good morning. That's one of the head chefs, Tsubasa-san. Are you always the first one to arrive? I see, but where's Ken-san? Really? Cool. Tsubasa-san's originally from Gifu Prefecture and moved to Tokyo for a culinary school when he was 18. Now he lives in Asakusa for an easy commute to the restaurant. Oh, thank you. So how long have you worked here? Oh, what brought you here? Cool. Hey, good morning. Nice to meet you. I didn't know you lived here. So how long have you been doing this? Cool. The first thing he does in the morning is prepare the shop's katsuobushi, bonito flakes, for their signature dashi. Unlike many places, Ken-san makes it a point to freshly shave his own dried skipjack tuna, which produces a strong savory and slightly sweet, smoky aroma, which fills the kitchen. In English, it can also mean a romantic relationship. Yeah, I know what you meant. Oh, do you have a family? Nice. How old? Awesome. Yeah, he's five. Oh, damn, you know. So what's in your dashi? The foundation of his recipes today comes largely from the training he received in his early culinary years through various apprenticeships. But over time, as he continued refining his skills and techniques, experimented with different methods and ingredients, he transformed those lessons into something uniquely his own, such as his dashi, which blends four kinds of soy sauce to produce a layered umami experience. So how's it looking with your partner? Wow, that's awesome. Is it going to be a similar style? Nice. Let me know when it opens up. In Japan's soba community, the tradition of master and apprentice is still very much alive. In fact, Tsubasa-san is his third apprentice. After years of training, many apprentices eventually open up their own shop while the master takes on a new generation to teach. With so many years working alongside each other, Ken-san says he sees them as family. While it's bittersweet to see him leave, he's incredibly proud of how far he's come and for his potential future as Tsubasa-san takes on the new challenge to craft his own path in the world. Hi, nice to meet you. Now he finally starts preparing the shop's soba noodles. They handcraft their noodles every day and serve it fresh to their customers, ensuring the highest quality experience possible. So, you'll be running your own shop soon? Oh, interesting. Wait, do you have a family? Cool. Apparently, the shop offers two types of soba noodles, inaka and seido. Inaka soba is made with buckwheat flour and the outer layers of the grain, which gives it a darker color and a bold, rustic aroma. Seido soba, on the other hand, uses only the inner white part of the buckwheat, with a more refined flavor and elegant appearance. The soba noodles he's crafting now are the inaka style, the darker soba. Hey, it looks like a huge Nikuman meatball. Even as an experienced French chef, learning the craft of soba was quite the challenge for him. The first time Ken-san trained him, his noodles came out very choppy and uneven, and tasting that first batch made him realize just how much he still had to learn. But instead of feeling discouraged, it actually motivated him even more, to a point where he instantly fell in love with the beauty and the depth of the craft. From that day, he spent every spare moment he had practicing and taking in as much knowledge from his master, months devoted on honing his skills. And he still remembers the very day Ken-san finally gave him the approval that his soba noodles were good enough to be served to their customers. It was a joy that he says he'll never forget. So what's the most important thing when crafting soba noodles? A slight difference in the day's temperature and humidity, and even the quality of buckwheat and flour can drastically affect the result, which is why it takes so many years of experience to be able to understand the difference. Only a soba craftsman who's mastered the art can effortlessly make adjustments to ensure that the soba noodles come out exactly the same each and every time. In Japan, there are many sayings about the art of crafting soba, whether it's three years for the mixing bowl, three months for rolling, and three days for the knife, or another common one, three years to make soba and eight years to master kneading, they all share the same message. It takes at least three years of serious and dedicated training to truly craft great soba noodles. It's an art that demands study, patience, and skill to master. Ken-san, so how'd you name your restaurant? By the way, I see a lot of, uh, what do you call it? Ribbon? Ribbon? He actually studied English in California for a few years in his younger days, where he picked up surfing and golf along the way. With a continued passion in these sports back in Japan, he decided to work in the sports industry. But by the age of 30, everything changed as he discovered the beauty of crafting soba and decided to leave his career behind and throw himself into the culinary world. He honed his culinary skills, apprenticing at multiple renowned soba restaurants, as well as restaurants focused on oden, traditional Japanese, and even Okinawa cuisine. Ultimately, these experiences becoming the foundational pieces on what and how dishes are served in this own restaurant today. So what's your favorite food? Nice! Sake is delicious! Yeah, I can't wait to see them! Nice to meet you, boss! Hey, so before we continue on, I want to give a quick shout out to the sponsor of this video, Squarespace. 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So there you go. Go to squarespace.com today for your free trial, and when you're ready to launch, go to squarespace.com and get 10% off your first domain or website. Now, a few more workers arrive and the shop seems to get even busier. Hi, what are you doing? What's on today's menu? Sounds delicious. So how long have you worked here? Oh, what'd you do before? No, that's so Asakusa. She says that she met Ken-san's father first and got introduced to the restaurant as a customer. So how do you like working here? For sure. Now they're finally open for business. And from the start, customers don't hesitate to file in and the seats fill up almost immediately. Asakusa is a tourist-heavy area in Tokyo and restaurants around the main streets are usually filled with international visitors, while shops like this hidden away in the back streets tend to have more locals and regulars as they know where to get the genuine food experience. Oh, he's making soba yu. Traditionally, it's a water used to cook soba, but these days many shops make it by dissolving buckwheat flour into hot water for a richer flavor and texture. It's served at the end of the meal where customers mix it with their leftover dipping sauce. It's a traditional way Japanese finish their soba meal while also enjoying the nutrients released from the buckwheat. In Japan, it's actually quite common for customers to order side dishes before eating their soba known as soba mae, which literally means before soba. Back in the day, freshly made soba noodles took quite some time to prepare and people in the Edo period were especially known for their impatience. So they would often pass the time with a drink and a few small side dishes, which eventually became the classic way in the country to enjoy a soba meal. Tansowan has embraced this tradition, becoming especially known for its carefully prepared soba mae dishes. It appears that the first soba order is nameko oroshi. Also in Japan, it's not strange for customers to eat their soba noodles without using the dipping sauce. Japanese who are true soba connoisseurs will eat their soba noodles first on its own, then with a little salt, and finally with the dipping sauce as a way to fully appreciate the aroma and flavor of the noodles. Hi, can I bother you? Do you come here often? Oh nice, how'd you find out about this place? Wow, so what's so special about their soba? I see, which soba do you recommend? Cool, thanks. Hi, can I ask you some questions too? So are you regular too? Nice, and how'd you find this place? Cool, what do you like about their soba? Awesome, and you live close by? Oh convenient, and what do you do? Great, thanks. Oh, it looks like the kitchen is in full swing now, with each worker focused on their individual role, and everyone moving together like a well-synchronized machine to complete all the orders coming in. This is not easy work, huh? I'm sure. So what's been the most challenging for you working here? While Ken-san primarily focuses on the soba, he's responsible for the soba mae dishes. As touched upon earlier before joining here, he worked as a French chef at the peninsula, and later on at a wine restaurant in Ginza. He says that French and Japanese cuisine are built on different philosophies, but they share one essential foundation. Each cuisine broth serves as an essential foundation for many of their dishes. Having studied and trained in both worlds has become one of its greatest strengths, and something that can be tasted in every dish served here. Hey, are you into Matsuris? That's awesome. Do you have a shoulder bump? Ken-san, do you have a bump too? Hey, so do you see many travelers at Sanja? Oh, it's probably kind of rough for really tall foreigners. Hey, do you have any hobbies? Really? What do you ride? Wow, have you ever gotten in an accident? Oh, you ride bikes too? On 2.30pm, the shop starts to slow down. Oh, it's your kids! Hello! Where are you guys going? Oh, the friends are visiting. Yeah, he was actually working. Asakusa has long been the heart of Tokyo's more traditional past, a place where merchants and craftsmen built a vibrant community. Even today, the spirit of Edoko, the true Tokyo locals, still lives on here. At its core is Ninjo, a deep sense of human warmth and compassion where neighbors look out for one another and close friends can feel like family. It's a community where people are quick to lend a hand while respecting each other's space. The balance of kindness and consideration is what makes Asakusa feel so special. Hey Ken-san, do you like spicy food? Hold on, one sec. Here you go. It's my original hot sauce. Wow, the black one is extremely spicy with Carolina Reapers, but the green one is pretty mild but it still has all of the umami flavor. It's crafted in Niigata. And it's made with Kanzuri. I even have a vending machine in Shibuya. At 3.30, the workers finally get to have their lunch. Which is provided by the shop known as Makanai. Some days the shop serves soba while on other days like today, something different is served. How is it? Did you try it? And now I know why this place is so special for so many people. They've truly mastered crafting soba while also mastering the art of hospitality with their warmth, kindness and passion offered to each and every guest making them feel like they belong to this fun and loving family. It's a restaurant filled with smiles and laughter where strangers become regulars and regulars become friends. And as Ken's wife said, there's nothing better than having fun. A simple philosophy that Ken-san echoes in his everyday life and instills in his staff today. One that Tsubasa-san will hopefully carry on into the future and one which is felt the moment you walk through the door. So that's another one of the books. If you guys want to visit this place for yourself, I'll be sure to leave a link in the description.