I Surfed the Most Localized Wave in California.

Well, today guys, we are going to one of the most legendary waves in Southern California. Oh dude, we're for sure getting localized today. Really really sensitive to the cold nowadays. Can't imagine why. Yeah, that's what happens when you surf in 88 degree water. Yeah, I'm like surfing hot tub all the time. No way dude, that's a freaking local. I was literally going to say, it doesn't get more local than that. How is it out there? Yeah. Is it crowded or not too bad? Yeah. Yeah, so it's kind of slow. Thanks bro. Yeah, let's see what's up with this guy. You from here? Yeah, yeah, what's up? Oh, I just, I haven't really surfed here much, so. Yeah, it's small today. I mean, yeah, this is not bad. Can't really complain on this. Yeah, for sure. I'm here filming a little documentary about, we're like focusing on blacks and kind of how crowded it is. You know, would you say it's like very localized or? No, no, no. Not localized, just crowded? No, it's because you got the school, you know. Oh, okay. So you get a lot of kids from UCSD that, you know, are just here for four or five years. I get it. Not really localized. Yeah. I mean, it's not doing it today. You're not even seeing it in real life. Yeah, okay. But later this afternoon, I think, maybe if the wind stays right, it's supposed to be. Yeah, okay. Good to know. What's your name? Mike. Greg. Greg? Nice to meet you, dude. Sweet, Greg. Well, we'll see you out there, bro. How was it out there? A couple. Yeah. Crowded? Yeah, there's some lefts coming in like every half hour, 45 minutes. Okay. Not bad. Looks pretty fun. I don't know. Maybe a little crowded. It's better than anywhere. Are you from around here? Yeah, I guess. Me and my friends are filming a little, like, documentary about kind of the waves around here. Not any of the secret spots, obviously. Yeah. There's not much left. Yeah. I've lived here for 50 ******* years and all the secret spots, everybody tells me. Yeah. You know that. Would you say this spot is, like, a localized spot or not really? You don't think so? I mean, isn't, like, Pipeline, it's all kids now? Yeah. I mean. I know. Yeah. Lowers is all ******* kids. Yeah, I know. When I was growing up. I mean, I'm, like, in my 50s now, I get no ******* respect. But my time growing up, I'm, like, you know. Yeah. I'm totally ******* held under about what you ******* do. Can't do much, dude. And then if I say anything, I'm the old salty guy. I got the lineup picked back on me. I'm like, ----, man. In the old days. I know. I'd be against you guys. But now you guys. I mean, I kind of wish it was more like that sometimes. When it's, like, just a free-for-all out there and there's no order. Like, you kind of wish someone would go out there and regulate, you know? It's for sure. I'd rather have that guy that you kind of stay away from. Yeah, exactly. It used to be a little more localized. Black's has always been kind of open. There's no one really lives here. Yeah. Well, it separates guys real quick. Matt, I'm Mike. Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you, man. How old are you? 24. All right. Yeah. I'll let you get out there, dude. But I'll see you out there. Yeah. OK. Thank you, brother. Appreciate you. Yeah. He said everyone just goes on every wave. Yeah. That's so real. But, I mean, he said it used to be localized back in the day. Like, he was like, yeah, it was pretty held down. But now it just seems like it just doesn't even matter. I think the problem is there's just something wrong. Yeah. I do. All right. Well, let's suit up, dude. I think I'm out there. I'm so hot. Oh, yeah. OK. General consensus is that this is actually not a localized spot. But it is very crowded. And apparently, you just get dropped in on pretty much all the time. So we'll see. I'm going to go out there and just try to get a couple. And I hope to get a couple. If I can get a three-turn wave, I'll be stoked. I think that's a good goal for today. OK. Yeah. I'm out there. It looks like there's just five people on every wave. Which is not a fun sight to see when you're paddling out. 20 minutes and on two waves that I went straight on. So, solid consensus for me so far. Finally got a good wave and I just blew it so hard. Unreal. I need a frickin' lock here, dude. Straight up. Someone's always in a better position than me. Like, every time. The wave looks like it'll be, like, right here. And then it'll just move so far this way. And then it's like classic beach break where you're like, That's a sick one! You paddle over to that peak and then it breaks where you just were. The curse. The curse of it's always better over there. It'll come. We just gotta... It'll come. Well, I think it can be concluded that this spot is not a localized wave. I experienced pretty much zero localism. But I think that's kind of what this series is becoming. Is me going to a famous or a legendary spot and seeing if locals still exist there. And it kind of seems like any kind of localism that maybe once has this spot has all but left. So, it's kind of sad. I myself am pro-localism to an extent. And that's coming from someone who's a local at no spots. So, pretty excited to continue this series through California. So, if you have any ideas of where I should go, definitely leave a comment. Or anywhere in the world. Leave a comment. Where should I go? Where should I visit? What spot should I go investigate? Thanks for watching, guys. I'll see you in the next one. Tschu!