I Surfed Oahu’s Most Localized Wave

Well it's kind of a wet and cold morning here on Oahu and today we're gonna go surf a wave that I literally know nothing about. Rainy guy today huh? I see some blue skies in the distance so oh baby. All right wave look good. Still a little stormy but I think before I paddle out I want to go talk to some of the locals, talk to some of the uncles and see what the deal is out there. But more importantly I want to see how it used to be like before this wave got famous because I'm sure all you guys are gonna recognize this wave. It's at this point a very famous place so yeah here we go. Have you surfed out here? A little bit yeah. I'll come out here once in a while. It's definitely a lot of kids. All right Tim. Yeah good luck. I'm gonna paddle out in a little bit. Yeah you'll find some overhead out there. Hopefully. Maddie see you. Hi nice to meet you. Well it looks like a couple fun ones out there. Yeah it's gotta be in the right spot. Yeah well you've been surfing out here a long time? Yeah. Yeah kind of talking to some of the locals some of the uncles just getting their like their advice to go out there. I was really curious because I know how it is now like I don't know get a lot of stickered groms and you know little kids and pros and did it always just was it always kind of a more of a mellower spot or did it used to be a little more held down back in the day? Yeah back in the day had certain uncles when you had to paddle out. Yeah. You gotta say hi. Yeah. Hey how's it like uh Hawaiian was one back in the day. You always go out there say how's it to Hawaiian get. Show respect. Yeah yeah and then maybe you get lucky. Yeah. Okay that's good to know. Yeah it's such a good spot. Today a little bit challenging because get the wind plus yeah the current so it's like one treadmill out there. Yeah you're battling all the elements right? All the elements and then the surface too. If you get one oh it's so good. Did you go out today yet? I just called. Oh yeah. On my session and I made it I made it out to surf another day so. There we go. Couple ways. Couple. And made it back in safely. Good. What's your name brother? Kaipo. Kaipo. Nice to meet you Kaipo. I'm Mike. Yeah. That's the thing looks so deceiving looks so inviting when you get out there like oh god just wait for a set. Can't really sit too long because next thing you know in literally a couple seconds you start getting pain. Short border. Yeah. How small or big? Well I have a 6'2 and a 5'10 I brought today. I'm probably doing 6'2 I feel like. Yeah. The more foam the better right? Yeah especially with the paddling and. Yeah. Look at that. Oh that guy just got two barrels one wave. All right well that's the sign. Thank you Kaipo. Nice meeting you. Nice to meet you guys. Do you want to surf a local spot but you're too scared you're not going to get any waves? Well do I have the solution for you. Go grab yourself a pair of Meek Surf Florence board shorts. They'll make you a local at basically any wave you paddle out to. Don't believe me? Just ask my local friend Uncle Lance. Is it local? Okay what you talking about bruh? See? Instant respect. Go to meeksurf.com to get yours today. Okay let's go get some waves. See a couple out there? We got a couple. Yeah. From what it sounds like sounds like it's not really super localized anymore but it definitely used to be. With that being said I'm gonna go out and surf but I don't think I'm gonna have an easy time catching waves so even localized or not. Just since the time we were walking around I feel like every single person I saw go out there had a sticker on their board. So the sponsored kids they all kind of get whatever wave they want especially on the north shore. So unless there's uncles out there but I didn't see any uncles paddling out so we'll see. We shall see. All right I'm gonna say a prayer and hopefully I can get some waves. So let me explain what you're about to see. Do you ever get so in your head that the whole session is ruined? If you say no then you're a liar. So my first wave here and I'm on a pretty good one. There's a close to perfect section right in front of me but I hesitate for just one moment and end up bailing. I remember sitting there with my head down just thinking Mike what are you doing? That would have been the best clip of the video and you just blew it. I literally think that over 30 minutes went by before I even caught another wave but by then I spiraled to the point of no return. I proceeded to fall on pretty much every wave I got while I was watching everyone else rip. I did get one decent one but I guess it wasn't good enough to change the momentum of my mindset. See this is not an uncommon thing in my surf career. Sometimes I literally have to leave, reset my mind and just come back another day. You can fight a losing battle all you want but at the end of the day sometimes it's better to withdraw and attack from a different angle. So no this is definitely not Hawaii's most localized wave but most difficult? Well you'll have to come and surf it for yourself. Bro are you kidding me that one wave was so sick. The one before your last one.