My whirlwind adventures through the Republic of Georgia continued in the beautiful city of Kutaisi in the western part of the country. Join me as I take you around to explore the food, sites, and culture of this amazing historical city!
Kutaisi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on Earth. It dates back to at least the sixth and fifth centuries BC. Back then, it served as the capital of the Colchis, a historical region that hugged the eastern Black Sea coast. It’s believed that Kutaisi was the final destination of Jason and the Argonauts from the Greek epic “Argonautica!”
My friend and guide Tim from Friendly GE and I started in the town of Surami, which is roughly midway between Tbilisi and Kutaisi. Lots of people stop there on their road trips to buy sweet bread, which is sold by lots of women on the side of the road!
We stopped at a shop called Nazuki Sergo to get a sweet cinnamon bread called nazuki, which contains raisins! We hit the road again and passed into western Georgia, which is hilly and warmer than eastern Georgia.
There are two sides of Kutaisi: the old, historical part nestled between some hills, and the modern city built by the Soviets. It reminded me of Veliko Tarnovo in Bulgaria.
In Tsentraluri Moedani Square is a large fountain that features replicas of ancient archaeological relics, and motifs of the Golden Fleece! It’s actually a tribute to the Kingdom of Colchis!
Nearby is the Meskhishvili Theatre and Kutaisi Park. The park is beautiful and full of fountains and sculptures.
Then, we passed the Kutaisi State Opera and Ballet Theatre, which looked a lot like the Sanctum from Doctor Strange! Kutaisi was the artistic capital of Georgia, so it’s famous for its artists, poets, and musicians.
Finally, we arrived at Bikentia’s Kebabery, which is basically a Georgian tavern that serves kebabs and beer. It’s very popular among locals and serves the best kebabs in town!
We ordered a battered and fried beef & pork kebab and two cold beers. The beer was so nice and refreshing. The kebabs came topped with a pile of onion and cilantro and came in a rich tomato sauce.
It was so delicious, meaty, and lightly fried, and the sauce was incredible. It was one of my favorite kebabs ever! I added some chili flakes to add a kick of heat. Best of all, these kebabs are the only thing on the menu, along with soda and beer!
They were so good I ordered some more and toasted with a fellow customer. Everyone there was so nice! And it’s cheap—three kebabs, bread, and beer will only cost you GEL 14/$5 USD!
From there, we walked one minute to the White Bridge, one of three historical bridges in the city. It crosses the Rioni River and has some beautiful designs and transparent panels in it. It also offers great views!
Then, we drove across the Chain Bridge to a rich neighborhood with great views over the historical center of the city. We arrived at Bagrati Cathedral, which was built in the 11th century and destroyed in the 17th century by the Ottomans. Reconstruction began in the mid-20th century and was complete in 2012.
You can see the old structure as well as an odd modern addition that doesn’t mesh with the old architecture. We saw the old pillars and then headed up the stairs to the bell tower. You can see the differences between the old and new parts of the cathedral inside!
Unfortunately, because of the new addition, the cathedral was removed from the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Outside, we saw a big iron cross standing in the grass and finally enjoyed some stunning views of Kutaisi!
My name is David Hoffmann. For the last 13 years, I have traveled the world in search of unique culture, food, and history! Since starting David’s Been Here in 2008, I have explored over 1,200 destinations in 84 countries, which I welcome you to check out on my YouTube channel, travel blog, and social media.
I focus a great deal on food and historical sites, as you probably have seen! I love to experience the different flavors that each destination has to offer, from casual street food to gourmet restaurant dining. I’m also passionate about learning about the local culture.
P.S. Thank you for watching my videos and subscribing!
This is one of my favorite kebabs ever.
The freshness, the sauce.
What's up everyone, this is David Hoffman from David's Bit.
And we're coming at you from the road in the beautiful Republic of Georgia.
Today I'm so excited because I am headed to one of the largest cities in the western side of Georgia.
It's called Kutaisi.
There we're going to explore, see the main square, you know, church.
We're going to eat some kebabs.
But right now we're stopping at a famous village for some sweet bread.
Tim, what is this?
So this is the town of Sudami.
It's basically exactly halfway between Tbilisi and the west.
So at this halfway point people stop and they buy sweet bread.
And after this we go up over the pass and into west Georgia.
And there's a lot of women selling sweet bread on the road right here.
You can see like 20 vendors.
But the one you have to go to is this one.
This one specifically because it's the most famous one and it's the yummiest.
Sergo is the name of the shop.
Oh man.
There's like raisins in here, right?
Yeah.
Nice and fluffy.
A little char on the outside.
So you can see raisins.
Let's open it up.
Oh, super sweet.
Oh, it's phenomenal.
So this is stuff you have to do on the way to Kutaisi.
It's only like, you know, so it's halfway there, right?
So you still have like 90 more minutes.
Something like that.
Must try.
Let me get some of that.
Oh, super nice.
That's the best part.
It's super fresh, right?
They literally just did it.
Baked in the tuna.
Nothing like a tandoor.
Nothing like it.
Absolutely.
Let's go.
When you visit Georgia, you're going to get a lot of bread.
Always eat the bread from the tuna.
Always.
The best.
So besides the sweet bread, they also knit hammocks.
They sell hammocks on the side of the road.
They also prepare a special kind of chewing gum from pine resin,
which I really like.
I have a tradition.
I chew it every time I drive this pass.
So this tunnel is the official boundary between east and west Georgia.
We've just crossed into west Georgia, the region of Imereti.
So that's it.
Once you cross that long tunnel, obviously you went through a huge mountain.
You're in west Georgia.
Amazing.
And we're going to be out here for the next four or five days
exploring Kudaisi and then we're down to Batumi.
I'm excited.
I'm pumped.
Can't wait.
I need some food right away.
I heard about these incredible kebabs.
There's a huge line outside the door in Kudaisi for this one place.
It's kebabs and beer.
That's it, right?
Yeah.
Well, you have two options.
You have kebab and beer or you can have kebab and soda.
So Tim was telling me that this side of the country is a little warmer
and the landscape is very different.
Instead of it being like valleys and huge mountains, it's more like hilly, right?
So, you know, small hills, you have villages here and there,
and right now they're expanding the highway.
That's why there is a bit of a traffic jam.
But now it's cleared up and we're going to make it straight over there
roughly in around an hour.
Hopefully we see something else along the road.
If not, straight to eat.
All right, so we're coming into Kudaisi.
There's two different sides to Kudaisi.
There's a more built-up modern area, which was built by the Soviets
when they made Kudaisi into an industrial center.
And there's the older historical part, which is nestled between a couple different hills.
So we're climbing up one of the hills on the backside,
and then we'll come down to the center.
So it's taken around 90 minutes to get here.
A bunch of traffic because right now they're doing a lot of construction.
They're building a few new roads.
And, yeah, I'm excited. I can't wait.
I'm really hungry today.
We've barely eaten, just some bread and water.
Whoo!
It's hot. It's really hot out here.
Summer in Kudaisi, get ready for scorcher.
That's true. It can get really hot out here.
First impression of Kudaisi, it reminds me of, like, Valiko Tarnovo in Bulgaria.
Obviously not their fortress, but around Valiko Tarnovo.
It's a very similar style, right?
Like 19th century buildings, really colorful.
Some of them obviously have been restored.
Some are original like that, like bricks.
Look at this blue house.
We're coming down to the main square right now, and we're going to check it out.
So the name of the kebab place is Bikentia's Kebaberia.
And it's just here on this side of the historical center.
And this is the main square of Kudaisi.
So what's the story behind this fountain?
So, like, here we have, like, some different animals,
and these are all replicas of different archaeological things that have been found from ancient times in Georgia.
There's also, like, some motifs of the Golden Fleece,
which reflects the legend of the Golden Fleece, which happened here in Georgia.
Many people don't know that, but that was Georgia's land of the Golden Fleece.
Okay.
So that's the square.
Over here, that's the theater over here.
Okay.
Over here, you have the headquarters of a bank.
Here's the Central Park.
Super nice place to relax on a hot day in Kudaisi.
Okay, guys, let's go eat.
I cannot wait for these kebabs.
To get to the kebab place, we have to pass through the Central Park.
Beautiful.
It literally dropped 20 degrees from being out in the scorching sun to coming here.
Look at this.
You have fountains, you have sculptures, you have a lot of trees, and people just come here to relax, right?
Exactly, exactly.
When it gets really hot in the summer, people are coming here, they're chilling out,
they're hanging out, they're with their kids, they're with their families.
Yeah, great spot.
Here in the Central Park, you can weigh yourself for 30 tetris.
30 tetris?
Yeah.
So like 10 cents.
Hello, hello.
It's okay?
I'm going to weigh myself.
Obviously, I've gained like 5 kilos on this trip.
I'm up a little bit.
It's all good, though.
Thank you so much.
Dr. Strange live here or something?
Look at this.
No, the opera house.
This is the opera house?
I mean, yeah, the design I'm just talking about.
It's like the sanctum.
The sanctum.
Yeah.
Amazing.
Kutaisi has a lot of different theaters, opera houses, music places.
Historically, Kutaisi was considered the artistic capital of Georgia, so a lot of famous poets,
musicians, and artists came from here.
All right, so this is the shop.
It looks like a Georgian tavern, right?
So just some tables right here.
Super cozy.
Love it.
Wooden tables.
Beautiful.
And what do we got?
We have kebabs and we have beers.
That's what we're getting.
And maybe some bread.
And here we go.
Three kebabs each posted on this table.
I'm excited.
These are the best, right?
Yeah.
Best ones in town.
Two cold beers.
Here we go.
Ching-ching.
Cheers.
Man, it's been a long road trip.
Yeah.
I needed this.
Okay, now for the main event.
So what do we have?
We have onions.
These are beef kebabs, right?
And then we have like a tomato sauce.
Yeah, it's like a spicy tomato sauce with different herbs.
And yeah, the minced meat is like breaded and battered and then fried.
Oh, man.
This is gonna be so good.
Bro, I might get some more.
Wow.
Super good.
So different, right?
These kebabs feel like they're lightly fried.
Yeah.
Right?
They're meaty.
Super meaty.
I think there's pork in here as well, right?
So it's a mix of pork and beef, but the sauce is what makes it.
Absolutely.
Oh, I love the salad.
Salad, huh?
Fresh onions, fresh coriander.
Everything's so fresh.
Oh, I'm so happy we came here.
And usually, there's a huge line out the door.
Obviously, because of the time.
I think it's like 5 right now.
Yeah.
High point is like 1, 2 in the afternoon.
All the guys come in.
They get their kebabs.
They have their lunch.
Working lunch.
Down with beer.
This is the best thing of all time.
This is one of my favorite kebabs ever.
Dude, the freshness, the sauce.
There's some chili right there.
How about a toast, bro?
Come on, bro.
How about a toast?
And this is the only thing on the menu.
Yeah, this is why you have two choices.
Kebab with beer, kebab with soda.
Wow.
Amazing, amazing.
I've eaten kebabs in the Middle East, India, Pakistan.
Where else?
I mean, all over the Balkans as well.
But I've never had it like this.
I mean, the freshness of the salad.
The tomato.
What else can I tell you?
I mean, the ingredients are super fresh.
Farm to table, basically.
This is the one thing they got.
You have to come here.
And if you finish all the sauce before you finish the kebabs,
you have a cup with more sauce.
You don't want to drink it.
It's basically like a gazpacho.
It's similar to gazpacho.
Maybe it was because we didn't eat,
but probably my favorite meal of the trip.
I'm getting two more.
Okay, can I go in the back?
It's amazing.
It's good beer.
Just like that, we're going for round two.
Super nice people.
So friendly.
I was like, can I fill in the bag?
He's like, yes.
Come in the back.
That was awesome.
I'm enjoying this.
My friend, thank you so much.
We're cheering to a good life, right?
Absolutely.
If you want to go crazy, just do what I do.
Just add that spice, right?
I love the spice.
Wow.
What a dish.
If you don't have Kuta Aisi on your itinerary,
I highly suggest you do it.
You know, on the way to Batumi from Tbilisi,
you got to stop here.
Especially for this dish.
It's a must.
Last amazing bite.
But don't forget the salad.
I love the vegetables and herbs.
So happy right now.
Thank you for bringing me here, bro.
Thank you so much.
It's good to be here.
And that's it, my friends.
Cheers to this place.
We're going to drink this up
and go explore the city.
For a beer, three kebabs, and bread,
it's $14, roughly under five US dollars.
One minute walk from the restaurant,
we have the White Bridge.
So there's three historical bridges, right?
Yeah, there's three historical bridges in Kuta Aisi.
The White Bridge,
the Red Bridge,
and the Chain Bridge.
This is the White Bridge,
and now it's a little pedestrian bridge
you can use to get over
from one part of the city to the next.
The views from here are stunning.
Beautiful.
Look, over here we have
different pieces of the town.
You have some restaurants,
some bars overlooking the river.
And on the bridge,
you have an area where it's clear
but it's a little dirty.
Obviously, you can't see through right now.
And you also have some beautiful designs.
So if we go this way,
what's over here?
The historical center
and going into the area
on the other side of the river.
And it's just houses.
So then next,
we're going to walk back to the town
and then go all the way up
to the cathedral.
Yeah.
Alright, let's go.
We just got in the car
and we're leaving the historical center.
We're going to cross
the Chain Bridge right now,
this one.
And after the Chain Bridge,
we made a quick left
and you go along the river
and then we're going to make our way
all the way up to the cathedral.
This neighborhood is called Gora,
which means hill.
So, like,
historically,
it was on the other side of the river
from the center of town
and lots of important people
lived up here.
I'm guessing it was
the rich neighborhood, right?
Yeah.
Basically.
I mean, a lot of the houses
are, like, falling apart, though.
You can see, like, you know,
little ruins here and there
but they all have epic views
over the historical center.
Look at that.
Yeah.
Wow.
What a view.
So from the top of the cathedral,
we have the best views.
Absolutely, absolutely.
And this is the beautiful
Bagratis Cathedral.
As you can see,
it's, like,
old and restored.
So what's the history?
So this cathedral
was originally built
in the 11th century
by King Bagrat.
That's why it's called
Bagrati Cathedral.
Destroyed at the end
of the 17th century
by an Ottoman army.
And so, like,
for centuries,
it was just laid
in, like,
this sort of, like,
ruined state.
And then,
starting in the middle
of the 20th century,
they started some reconstruction
and this reconstruction
was finished in 2012.
So this is basically
brand new, right?
On the left,
you can see
the old structure.
Obviously, over there
is, like, a modern structure.
That's a little weird
that they did that.
Yeah.
And then over here,
we have the bell tower, right?
Yeah.
So from the bell tower...
Can we go up the bell tower
or no?
Well, I think we can
walk up the side.
Okay.
Let's go up there.
I think from there,
we're gonna get
even better views, right?
Because right here,
we have a mini park, right?
We have cars.
A lot of tourists here,
obviously.
Wow.
This is great, though.
Look at this.
These are the old, like,
pillars.
This would have stood
on the inside somewhere.
You can see, like,
some of the original stones
are still, like,
here in the building.
Okay.
Gotta be careful.
No railway.
Okay.
Wow.
Epic.
If you're brave,
come up here.
I don't recommend it.
Man, that's a big fall.
Yeah, it's high.
It's high.
I think it's, like,
at least, oh, man,
50 feet?
Something like that.
Yeah.
Big drop.
All right.
I'm going back down.
But the views are great.
Yeah, so that's, like,
25 feet, not 50.
But still really high.
If you have a vertical,
don't go up there.
Now let's go inside
and see the old and new.
Hat off.
As soon as we entered
the cathedral,
church was in service.
So, out of respect,
we didn't talk in there.
Obviously,
I wanted to show you
the differences, right?
So, on the left
and the right,
you see, you know,
old and new,
and then you have
super new, like,
modern, right?
This was added in 2012.
When they finished,
they put the roof back on.
They put the dome back on.
Before that,
this place was just open air.
But then they also added
these, like,
kind of iron constructions,
which don't exactly fit
with the rest of the building.
Just so you guys know,
this used to be
a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
But the second they added
this modern construction,
UNESCO removed it
from the list.
Sadly.
The last thing we got to see,
there's, like,
a big iron cross right here.
And there's some
of the old walls
of the fortification.
This used to be
the city fortification.
So, massive iron cross.
And then in front of us,
we have the walls
and incredible views
overlooking the city.
I mean, this is where
you have to come
to get a view
of Kutaisi.
Yes,
the cathedral is gorgeous,
but this is a stunner.
Tim,
it's all worth it
for this.
You can, like,
literally see the entire place,
the entire city from here.
So, like,
just down there
is the central square
where we were earlier,
the central park.
The kebab shop
will be over there somewhere.
You can see all the way out.
Here, up in front,
we have, like,
still the older neighborhoods.
And that's it, my friends.
We explored Kutaisi.
We actually started
90 minutes from here
coming from Gori.
We stopped in a town
to have some sweet bread,
delicious with raisins.
What's it called?
The sweet bread itself
is called Nazuki.
The town is called Tsurami.
Okay.
And then from there,
we came all the way over here,
90-minute drive
through winding roads,
mountains.
They're actually building
a tunnel,
so eventually you'll be able
to get here a lot faster.
And, yeah,
what did we do?
We saw the central square,
central park.
We went and had
the best kebabs of my life.
So good.
Beef, pork,
tomato sauce
with some salad.
Super, super scrumptious.
After that,
we walked over to the bridge,
saw a bridge,
got in the car,
came all the way up here
to this beautiful cathedral
and got an incredible view
over Kodaisi.
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