How Knitwear Went From Survival Gear to Luxury Fashion

Today, the vast majority of fashion brands offer some type of knitwear. But behind what feels like a simple wardrobe staple, lies one of humanity's oldest, most interesting crafts. Because knitwear wasn't always about fashion. It began as a life-saving craft, and not many people know its history. For centuries, fishermen and sailors relied on hand-knitted wool garments to keep them alive in brutal weather. These garments were built for insulation and, believe it or not, water resistance. Which is ironic, given that most knitwear today is dry-clean only. You see, there's this natural oil found in untreated sheep's wool called lanolin, which would repel water, allowing sailors to stay warm even when wet. And in freezing Atlantic waters, hypothermia was a real threat. So proper knitwear could literally be the difference between life and death. Centuries later, knitwear saves lives again, but this time on the battlefield. During World War I and II, millions of volunteers knitted wool garments, socks, gloves, balaclavas, for the troops going to the front lines. Because poorly insulated soldiers could get frostbite from being exposed to freezing temperatures. So knitwear filled that gap. There were even campaigns branded as Knitting for Victory, positioning knitwear as essential gear for survival and turning this humble craft into national service. The same stitches that once kept fishermen warm now protected soldiers in the trenches. But the actual origin story of knitwear started much, much earlier. Some historians trace its roots back to Egypt around 1000 AD, where early socks were found in tombs. Others say it began in the Middle East around the 5th century. But what's for sure is there is clear evidence that knitting had spread to Europe by the 1300s, with several religious paintings of that era depicting Virgin Mary knitting, titled the Knitting Madonnas. And although that wouldn't have been possible during Mary's lifetime, since true knitting didn't exist back then, it does show that knitting was definitely a thing in the 14th century. The craft grew in popularity due to how easy it was to get started with. Because unlike weaving, which required more substantial equipment, knitting could be done without any equipment at home. So the cottage industry grew rapidly across the world, especially in Scandinavian countries or in rural areas where self-sufficiency was key. Soon after this, the word knit appeared in the Oxford English Dictionary in the 15th century, originating from the Old English word neaten, which meant to tie with a knot. Knitting became extremely popular in 15th and 16th century England. There was even a law that stated that every person over 6 years old had to wear a woolen cap on Sundays and on holidays. This is a law that was introduced to support the local cap-making industry. Then in the 16th century, the purl stitch, which is one of the two basic stitches in knitting today, was invented in order to knit stockings. Stockings actually became so popular at the time that Queen Elizabeth I encouraged the formation of knitting guilds to meet the demand, and her father, King Henry VIII, was supposedly the first British royal to wear knitted stockings. However, they quickly became a wardrobe staple across all income classes, worn both by the upper and lower class. In 1589, a man named William Lee invented the first knitting machine, the stocking frame. He demonstrated it to Queen Elizabeth I, hoping for her support, but she refused to grant him a patent, saying it would put too many hand knitters out of work. Ironically, that tension between craft and technology would define knitwear for centuries to come. The country continued to innovate the craft of knitting. But it's during the 18th century that the Industrial Revolution took it to new heights. Manufacturing processes reached never-before-seen efficiency across the textile industry, and artisans were just no longer able to keep up with the pace of factories that invested in this new machinery. In the 19th century, coastal communities began developing their own knitting traditions. For example, in the Aran Islands, intricate cable and diamond patterns symbolized ropes, nets, and fields, while on the Channel Island of Guernsey, tighter weaves created dense, weatherproof sweaters known as gonzis. Each region had its own design language, creating a form of identity through their knitwear. But the 1920s were the real inflection point when knitwear became associated with fashion. It started when Coco Chanel knitted her two-pieces and boxy crop jackets, which ended up on the pages of Vogue and popularized knits in women's clothing. In the 20s and 30s, knitwear became synonymous with an active, modern lifestyle. The Fair Isle sweater became popular when the Prince of Wales wore one in 1921, cementing knitwear as stylish menswear. Later in the 1950s, synthetic yarns and fibers became popular, and this further contributed to mass production, turning knitting into more of a hobby rather than a necessity to provide warm clothing. Since then, a large portion of knitwear started being blended with synthetic fabrics, mostly to cut costs and increase profit margins. By the 1960s and 70s, knitwear had fully entered popular culture. From beatnik poets in black turtlenecks to the DIY hand-knit revival of the 70s, and later the loose, distressed knits of 90s grunge, the sweater became a canvas for self-expression. Each decade reinterpreted it, but the core idea remained the same, an item of warmth, individuality, and comfort. But today, it feels like the focus has slowly been shifting back to what made knitting special in the first place, the craft, placing more emphasis on material quality, structure, and longevity. And that's a lineage that we really tried to honor when we created our first knitwear for our brand. From the yarn choice being 100% made of natural fibers, to the structure and density of the stitching, the precise fit, down to the smallest details, like the double-layered collar or the 2x2 ribbing on the cuffs, every detail was carefully considered to make a product that is truly high quality. Made here in England, in a small factory specialized in luxury knitwear. And I couldn't be more proud of the knit quality we've achieved. One of these sweaters on its own weighs 1.3 kilograms, which is a heaviness that's rarely seen with knitwear. I truly think the craft of knitting is a testament to human creativity. It's evolved for over a thousand years, from desert socks to the catwalk, from survival gear to now a modern wardrobe staple. And we're still weaving its story today, all in the name of keeping humans cozy.