REBUILDING A PORSCHE 911 GT3RS FROM SCRATCH

This brand new GT3 RS has been on it's roof and I had to buy this one to fix one that's been under water. Yep, not ideal but we ended up stripping apart all the parts of the one that's been under water and putting them in a box to send back home to the UK after finding out that that chassis wasn't worth repairing. I don't think this is even repairable either. But once we got the engine back in the UK and stripped that apart, look what's all this? We found out that there was even more damage to it, meaning it needed a whole new block to be able to fix it. So what's the solution to that? Put a new block in it. Brilliant. So now I've got to fix this tub and this engine and the £145,000 that I've spent has gone to waste. First thing we need to get off then is this roof. That's well strong. It's got that anti-damage glitch. It's literally doing nothing. It's doing nothing. And it's PPF'd. I can see why it's £12,000. As you can see, that roof is irreparable and so was the one off the car in America. There's four bolts underneath holding it in and then the rest of the roof is sealed on just like a windscreen is. So I'm using a lot of heat and then a hammer and a chisel to wedge open the roof. Fire! Oh my days. There's barely any structure to this roof. It is so flimsy. Nearly there. Final piece. Okay, roof is off but if it was just the roof we'd be okay. But it's not. This part of the structure of the roof is damaged which seems the only structural part of it and we think the people that sold us this car actually pushed this out to make it look a little bit better because you can see it's actually broken there and I think that's broken from pushing it up. So this is going to have to be replaced but in the UK you can buy structural parts from Porsche. Unlike in the US. 220 quid, Gepsys, a new roof panel. We've just got to figure out how to fit it because unlike in the US where they can't sell you structural parts, the UK can sell you structural parts but they're not allowed to tell you how to fit them. So we've got to work it out ourselves. Best way to find out how it was fitted and how we can fit it is to take this one apart and work out how it was put together. So the carbon part of the roof wasn't really much of the structure but this part was. First off, my dad's drilling out the rivets which hold on the brackets which hold on the sun visors. Then I'm on the top of the car with a wire wheel trying to clean up all the sealer that's on it to expose any rivets or nuts and bolts that might be holding this part on and it actually looks like the A-pillar is overlapping this roof panel. So it's looking like we've got to remove the A-pillar first or at least move it out of the way so we can get this roof panel off. Which means drilling out the rivets which hold this A-pillar on. This should break up the panel bond between the two panels. And between the aluminium A-pillar and the steel structure underneath there's a lot of panel bond. So look guys, we've got an A-pillar, outer skin, so I think from Porsche they expect you to join it around here. So what I'm going to do, for now, we're going to go with the safety bet. I'm just going to cut the A-pillar a little further than it needs to be at the minute before we have to do a perfect joint cut later. I've got to be careful here not to cut through and damage the inner structure and then surprisingly on the inside there's no rivets at all. The A-pillar is just panel bonded and then folded over onto the inner structure of the car. Which made it actually pretty easy to remove. And remember, we're just trying to figure this out as we go along. There's no information about this anywhere. Woah! Put them in. Oh man, good ones there. It's okay. Good ones there. Okay, all of the outer structure is off and inner structure is good apart from the A-pillar. So it looks like we have to take off the outer skin to get to this inner skin anyway. So now we've got to drill this off and off that side as well. And I did buy another A-pillar for that side but we don't know if we're going to repair it or not because there's a few dents in it. But I think we're going to have to take it off anyway to replace that. So that side's going to come off now and then we can fit this new roof panel. And I think everything should just line up and be self-explanatory. We hope because we don't think any of this has moved or anything but that is definitely gone. But let's see. This side A-pillar wasn't actually too bad but now that we have to remove it anyway to get that roof panel off, we might as well replace it whilst we're there. It saves repairing it. And now I'm working away at getting off that roof panel. I'm heating up the panel bond so it loses its strength, drilling out any rivets and then wedging my chisel underneath to pull it apart. That was only held in by nine rivets. So 18 rivets and that's it. Let's do that side now. Now that both A-pillars are off, I can access the other rivets holding the left-hand side of the roof panel on and once we've drilled those rivets out, it should come off. Yay! Wow, it's a... What do they call it when it's got no screen and no roof? A purter. That's it. GT3RS a purter. Look at that, it feels world faster without that. We've got to make sure now, when we put this roof panel on, it's exactly in the right spot because if we do it a little bit mill upwards or a mill downwards, the screen ain't going to sit central and neither is the roof. So we've got to make sure this is perfect. We've got to clean up these and the good news is by taking it apart, we've learnt how it's put together because there's just rivets, look, wrong rivet, two rivet, three rivet, four rivet and that's it and panel bond which is all the blue stuff. So rivet and panel bond, it is, seems to be the way most cars are going nowadays. Now let's do it. Now I need to clean up all the surfaces that the panel bond's going to be touching and also drill out the holes for the rivets. Then I should be able to put the new roof panel onto the existing structure. Well that's what I thought. Right, another problem. This sits on here like this. Fits lovely there, nice and flat, windscreen would go in pretty good. I think that's quite nice but if you look underneath, you can see that this is not sitting flush with that and we think that that, this side's not too bad, like I think once you put the rivets in it will sit up snug but this side is not going to close the gap but because we think this car was on its roof and this bit had a kink in, it's all been pushed down including this part of the structure here has been pushed down as well. You can actually see a little crease in this bit here but luckily this little bit here is a section and we have got it on part of the inner structure down there. Check this out. So it's a steel inner structure so we think if we take this off here and weld it onto there we should be okay. The only issue is we've got to get it spot on in the right spot but we've got to get this right now else the windscreen could look like this when it's in. Let's drill out these spot welds. Not ideal but that's crash damaged cars for you. Luckily I think this should be a simple fix. Because the inner structure is steel it's spot welded on so it should just be the case of drilling out these spot welds, pulling off the panel and then re-welding on the new panel. But first I'm marking it then let the drilling commence and eventually we've got that steel structure off and the underside of the panel looks all good. Okay that was very strong but it's understandable it holds the roof on. Got that off now. My dad's got the bit off the other one. Now we've got to clamp this on and spot weld it or we're going to plug weld it to the inside of this to make it look like that one over there like that. So let's do it. Before we weld anything I'm just adding a little bit of weld through primer. This will stop it rusting from the inside outwards. Then I can put on my new panel. I've got to be 100% sure that this is in the right place. And to confirm it I'm just fitting the roof panel in place as well just to see how it all lines up and everything is looking good. My dad's already drilled out the holes in this panel ready for the weld to go in. Here we go. All we've got to do is plug weld these holes. It's easier said than done. Let's do it. Might help if I put a ground on. Now I'm not the best welder in the world. In fact I'm far from it. But as long as they do the job it doesn't have to look pretty. Oh my goodness. Argh. That didn't run away. Yeah. They don't look great but are they going to do their job? Let's find out. Yeah. Solid. It's good that. There. It's going nowhere. I think it just needs cleaning up a bit. Yeah. I think that'll do. That looks perfect if you ask me. OK. Not so perfect but with a little belt sander I should be able to make those welds look neat enough. Now time for the roof panel. Hopefully now it should sit nice and flush. And it does. Which is good news. We can finally start making progress. We'll get the roof out. The roof was the most expensive part out of all these. All these little panels are a couple hundred quid here and there. The roof £8,900 plus that. And it's the weakest part of all of this but it's carbon fibre. They're grating. What? Does the old one not have that? No. It's got a hole. What's the hole in there for? Is that not where the antenna goes? It did have an antenna. There we go. Is it going back then? Oh dear. Is that like a GT3 roof? No because it's got the bits for the aero. Yeah that's going to be aero or something. That's going to be aero. Lay that. But look. Where's your antenna hole then? Mine never had a hole in it. Yours never had one. Well. That's got to go back. Yeah. Let's see if it fits but that hole in the roof. That's not meant to be there though. No. I know you like to try and make it save weight but I mean it's a bit random. It's got to be for an aero doesn't it? There's nothing else. It has to be. Well despite the hole in the roof we were going to see whether it lined up anyway. And that's all we need this roof for. Hopefully we can get one without that hole later. What we can do now is continue to fit our panel at the front there. Which requires panel bond and rivets. Now because we're joining aluminium to steel you won't be able to weld the two together. And that's why most cars nowadays are put together with panel bond and rivets. And you've just got to make sure everything's spotless and in the right place. Before you put any of those in. So I'm drilling the holes out for the rivets now. And then out it comes. Clean up the surface areas and then we can apply the Mansory glue. A little bit more sanding just to be sure. Porsche glue. If you ask for all the parts to fit the panels when you order these structural parts from Porsche. They'll give you them. But the one thing they won't give you is the instructions on how to do it. So you have to kind of work that out yourself. Unless you're a registered body shop. I reckon he'll be able to do a wedding cake now. With the panel bond evenly spread on the new panel. We can now lower it down into place. And slide in the rivets through the holes that we've just drilled out. And in goes the rivets. And there was one self tapping screw underneath. Strength test. Amazing. Imagine I fell through. One roof panel successfully on. And it all lines up great. Now we've just got to start cleaning up the A pillar. As that'll be the next thing to go on. That is not the finished cut. Now we can put the A pillar over that. And make a perfect line. And that's the one that's going to matter. But I've had two practice goes at it now. And I've got a bit better. Just got to make sure that this cut is perfect for when we put that A pillar on. So we're sliding the new A pillar into place. And sliding it over the top of the existing panel. And then I can mark a line on the existing panel where I need to cut it. We've never done this before. We've seen it done. But we've never been left alone to do it ourselves. And now it's time to cut it. I've got to get this cut perfect. Or else these two panels are not going to line up. And after a bit of careful cutting. Off comes the excess of the A pillar. Then we can slide back on the new A pillar. And see how well I did. Oh my god guys. Considering you don't have your glasses. Do you know what? Are we in the right spot do you reckon? So what you should do as well. Is slide something in. But it should be able to slide in a bit of metal like that. What I've seen people do before. Is cut an existing bit of metal off. Then slide it underneath the panel. And where you're going to join them together. That way it gives you something to weld onto. And a little bit more structure underneath where the join is. I've applied some panel bond to my excess bit of metal. Then slid it under the existing A pillar. And whilst we're waiting for that panel bond to set. We can start cleaning up the new A pillar. On all the parts where the panel bond is going to be touching. Then we can be 100% sure that this panel bond is going to set right. Once it's cleaned up. It's time to put the two part panel bond in place. Making sure we get a nice even spread. Across the whole panel. Then I'm just going to spread it nice and evenly across it. And it's time to put it in place. There's no going back now. This has to work. Once it's in place. We can slide back in the rivets. All along the front and the top. And then wrap around the inside of the panel. Onto the inner structure. It is on. The last bit though would be. Just to do the little seam welding here. And then it will need some body work. Just to smooth this in. To this perfectly good rig water. That we have here. And we have everything across. The body shop can repair this quarter. It's aluminium quarter. It's going to be tough. But our repair is on the line. And of course. We've just got to do exactly the same. But on the other side. But now that we've learnt how to do it. We can breeze through it. And there is two. Almost repaired A pillars. We just need the last little bit. Finishing off now. Bob's here from the machine shop. Who completely welded up the Gallardo. So this is going to be light work for him. Just got to join it. Special welding aluminium to aluminium. Gone. Bob is going to be TIG welding. The two aluminium panels. That is because this takes a little bit more skill. Than the MIG welding. That I did earlier. Especially as it's on a panel that you're going to be able to see. And this welding gets super hot. And it's important not to get it too hot. That it warps the panels. But Bob knows exactly what he's doing. And it's already starting to look really good. Once he's got the weld down. He can then clean up his work. And start using a sanding wheel to make it nice and flat. And flush. And that. Is pretty much job done. All done look at that. Final product. Bob smashed it. If you want to learn how to weld. Go to the machine shop. If you also want to borrow some tools. And powder coating. What else have you got? We've got a workshop. It's like a gym where you can come and use all of our kit. Instead of buying your own kit you can use ours. And we've got a YouTube channel now as well. Oh yeah. You can watch Bob on YouTube now as well. Now this is off to the body shop. And we've got an engine to rebuild. Let's go. This is a GT3 RS engine. Completely stripped. And we had to do this. Because we found out that the cylinders. Were full of rust. Look at what we've got. A brand new. £6000 block. From Porsche. There's no backing out now. This thing looks mint. A brand new cylinder block from Porsche. We did have an option to repair the old block. But we never thought it would be as good. As it left the factory. As these engines are really reliable. So a new block it is. This is the start of it. Now all we've got to do. Is get all of this. Into this. We've not done this before. So first step is split this apart. And then we can start. Building this engine together. Which goes together in such a strange way. But hopefully we can talk you through it. Here we go. First off the block splits in two. We don't need this side just yet. This side will be back later. Are you excited? Well excited. Then we can turn over this side. So it's upside down. And then I've got the pistons and the conrods. Which I've marked to make sure they go back in the correct cylinder. We're not taking any chances. Conrod, piston, piston ring. See how these piston rings are a bit wider. Than the piston. We need to squash these down. Because these are actually what seals the gap. Going down the cylinder sleeve. Push them down there without breaking them. And we also have bearings on there. We haven't replaced any of them. Because they're literally perfect. And we've just cleaned them up. Let's go. Remember this engine is only done a couple of hundred miles. So mainly everything in it is brand new. Now we're using a special tool. Which is slide the piston down. Which squashes the piston rings. Into the piston. Allowing you to put the piston into the block. One piston in. And we've got to do that for all three pistons. On this side of the cylinder block. Making sure we lubricate them. As they go in. We don't want to cause any damage. Three pistons in, three more to go. But the way the other pistons go in. The level just increased in difficulty. Now we're going to turn that side of the cylinder block. Upside down. So we can see the bottom of the conrods. The next thing to go on would be the crankshaft. But you can't put crankshaft onto bare aluminium. That needs bearings. And we have them. In the old wet block. So we're going to transfer these bearings out. And put them into the here. Again the bearings in this old block. Are brand new. So we're going to slide them out of there. And slide them back into place in the new cylinder block. Normally when the bearings look worn. They're either really shiny. Or they look kind of like copper. Whereas these still actually look matte silver. So they've barely been worn in. And these bearings are used for the crankshaft to spin on. And remember this car can rev up to 9000 rpm. So it's crucial these bearings are good. And we've also got to be careful. That if there's any rubber seals like this one. We're switching them over from the bad block. Onto the good one. I'm just saying that I've put a bit of oil. On each. On each of the main bearings. I mean yeah the main bearings. And I've also put a bit of oil on the. On the big ends. Because. Once the crank's in place. Now you can see the main bearings. And the conrods. With half of the big end bearings on. And my dad's now just fitting the last thrust washer. Which stops the crankshaft going forward. And backwards in the block. In goes the crank of the shaft. Right. These caps. Which go on the conrods. They're all made as one whole piece. And then they're almost snapped off at factory. So these are going to be perfectly seated. To the bottom of the conrods. And that's why they all have names. This one's called. HS5B. HH5B. Husba. So we need to find Husba to go onto Husba. Because the other side will be named Husba as well. But if we mix them up. Big problems. You can just see the bottom of the conrods poking through here. And we've got to now marry them up to the right conrod cap. There's Husba. Oh yeah there is Husba. That's Husba. We didn't in fact do Husba first. Because another one was easier to access. The conrod cap slides around the crankshaft. And connects to the rest of the conrod. And as the crankshaft rotates. This is what's going to lift the piston. And the conrod up and down. And another crucial part about this. Is torquing them to spec. You do 10. Then 30. Then 190 degrees. Really that's it. We managed to find the torque specs for these big end bearings. And you have to torque both bolts up to 10. Then both bolts up to 30. And then turn them both. 190 degrees afterwards. Sounds crazy. But I guess they're there for a reason. So we've got to connect each conrod cap up. To the rest of the conrod now. And torque them all to spec. So far we're looking good. Bottom rods and pistons are in the block. Now the way to do the other side. Is completely different to that side. So let's get doing it. Here we have my drawing. Where this is the bottom left side. And this one will appear to be. On here. The issue we have here. Is if we put it on like that. If we then put the block on top. The piston won't come in from underneath. So you could go the other way. And put this in the block. And then put the block in from underneath. But then you won't be able to get to these bolts. To tighten them up. So you have to do a special. Porsche way of doing so. And we'll show you how you do that. Hopefully. You can see that the piston is attached to the conrod. And that's connected using a wrist pin. And the wrist pin is held in with a little clip. Now we've got to get the piston off this conrod. So we're using this special tool. To remove the clip which holds the wrist pin in place. Once we have that clip out. We can slide the wrist pin out. And then the piston off the conrod. And now that we have a bare conrod. We can slide it onto the other side of the crankshaft. And then we're going to get the conrod cap. And slide it onto the other side of the conrod. Clamping it onto the crankshaft. And of course. We've got to torque them all to spec. And I've now got to do this again. For the remaining two conrods. Which will then leave me with three conrods. Attached to the other side of the crankshaft. All torqued up. Ready for the other side of the cylinder block. To slot over the top of them. Hopefully that makes sense. That's in. Never to be coming back out. So this is the next stage. Is now. To put the other side of the block. On this side. Then we'll slide the piston through. Imagine the blocks here. If I could do 3D animation it would be. There now. Then we're going to slide this in. Like that. Slide that through there. And then we're going to have to use a tool. To slide it all the way through. Into the engine. To hold that piston in place. Like that. And we're going to have to do that. For these three cylinders. Crazy way. We've never done it like that before. But it's quite interesting to see it done. Let's get to it. Before we slide the other side of the block. Over onto that side. We've of course got to put. The other half of the main bearings in. And these will match up to the other side. When we connect the blocks together. When two become one. Just before we lift over the other half of the block. We're just running a thin line of RTV sealant. So it creates a nice seal. Between the two. We don't want any oil leaks coming from there. And now I can get the other side of the block. And slide it over the conrods. That we've just bolted to the crank. What we're going to do first. Before we put the pistons in. Is put the bolts in. To squash this together because of the sealants in there. So in goes the first bolt. And of course. Once the bolts are in. You've got to torque them to the correct specification. So you do all 15 Nm. Then you come back. Then you do them all 50 Nm. And then. You loosen them off 360 degrees. And then you do it again. But on the last time. After fifth there. You do 75 degrees. And then another 75 degrees. Which would total 150 degrees. Why? Why do they do that? I think it's just so people. Who can't read. Try not to put an engine together like us. So then we run through all of the bolts. Torquing them to the correct spec. And tightening them up in the correct order. From the middle outwards. Look at this. There's a hole through here. And with that hole you can see straight through. Onto the top of the conrods. Which we're going to have to line up. So now we've got to do. The furthest away first. So we've got to get this. So we can see it through there. This is a putter in tool. So then this goes in. Whoa get out of my way. Block. Hey excuse me. Coming through. So then that you see that. That. Is what's going to help us connect. The piston onto that. This is crazy. Look at this tool. It looks like something from 1950. What tools look like that in 1950? Bike pump. So now the far end conrod. Is in line with that inspection hole. Ready for the piston to go in. The pins already in this side. So when we push through the wrist pin. It can't come out that side. Because the pins already in. There's nothing stopping it coming out of there. So in goes the piston. Knock that down into place. And then we can make sure it lines up perfectly. With the conrod. With this special tool. We slide this through. And it should align the conrod with the piston. And if you're managing to stay with me at this point. It would be amazing if you hit that subscribe button. If you already haven't. Now it's time for the wrist pin. We've got to slot it onto this tool here. Then slide it through that hole. All the way to the end piston. And slide it through the piston. And into the conrod. And to hold that wrist pin in place. We need one of these. The little circlip on the end. So we have to get the clip inside this special tool here. Before we slide it in. I've loaded the pump. Now that that clip is inside our pump. We can slide that through the cylinder block. All the way to the end piston. And push the end of the pump. To pop the clip onto the piston. And if we don't get this right. Then it's a problem. 3, 2, 1. If it goes. We've failed. If it doesn't. We may have passed. And that looks like it's on. It's in. Look at that. It's in. First try. Now I've just got to do it again. Two times over to the other pistons. And it wasn't as bad as I thought. Look at this. No compression. Beautiful. Yeah boy. Then. It was time for the shell. To be taken to the body shop. Whilst we lifted the engine block. With all the pistons in. Onto the stand. Wow. Yes. Right. Now we can put the cylinder heads on. But we can't. Because there's still a little bit of rust in the cylinder heads. We're going to have a go at cleaning that out now. Before we put them on. Over to the cylinder heads. You join me at the cylinder heads. Normally what you're supposed to do. If you're correctly rebuilding an engine. Is take the valves out. Clean the back of them and put them back in. The problem is if we do take the valves out. And then clean the back of them. We're just worried that we then adjust. The way the valve sits. Inside the head. Which would mean we'd have to put shims in. Gets complicated. So ideally we just want to try and clean these out the best we can. The goal of this. Is that the valve sits flat. On the cylinder head. Doesn't leak anything. Coming into the cylinder head or out of the cylinder head. And we know that they don't leak. Because we already poured fluid on the bottom of them. And they were fine. But we're just going to clean them up. Just for precaution. When a valve opens in the engine. It's important it opens all the way. But also closes all the way. And if it doesn't close. Then the engine's not going to get the correct compression. Now our cylinder heads have been completely under water. And we're a little worried that the back of the valves have got a bit of rust on them. But we know that they do close all the way. Because we put fluid on the back of the valves. And they didn't leak through. But we want to make sure that we clear off. As much rust as possible. Before the heads go on. And they do look quite bad. But we're hoping it's just a little bit of surface rust. So we're going to add some cleaner. Down into the intake ports. And get a rag in there and try and clean it all up. And it's actually not doing a bad job. But remember we've got both cylinder heads to do. Madaz just took off the intake flaps. Madaz took off the other cylinder head. So we can start attacking that one. And meanwhile the GT3 RS shell. Has arrived at the body shop. Now that it's there. They can inspect the rest of the damage. And I'm hoping they can get the dents out of both rear quarters. Which looks trickier. We're coming back to the cylinder heads. They're looking a lot better. Head gasket. Here is our brand new head gasket. But before that goes on. We have no idea what they do. But they were in. When we took the engines apart. So they're going back in. Now that the weird blue plastic things are in. We can slide on the head gasket. And the cylinder head of one side of the engine. Being careful to keep the chain. Which goes around the crankshaft. Up and out the way. Because this has got to go around the camshafts later. And not forgetting the chain guides. These of course guide the chain. They make sure that the chain don't rub on any of the cylinder block. And ensure the chain stays nice and tight. And there's two timing chains on the car. One round the crankshaft at the bottom. Which goes up to one cylinder head. And another round the crankshaft at the bottom. Which goes to the other cylinder head. And meanwhile. Back at the body shop. They've started work on perfecting the joint. Between the A pillar and the rear quarter. A little bit of body fill is added. And then they tape a line with some masking tape. So they can make sure the body line stays perfect. And they're doing that for both sides. Now we should replace the head bolts. And we are. Look at these special ones. Down there. One. Two. Three. Four. Five. It's back to the rear quarter dents. And the guys are going to attempt to get all of this out. With very little use of body filler. I guess this is what you call panel beating. This is such a skill. And you've got to know exactly where to hit the panel. In the right place. To get those dents out. By sanding down the paint. The guys can see the high spots and the low spots in the dents. Just trying to get these bits up now. Sort of like that. And then close them right down. This GT3 RS is undergoing. Some serious amount of work. From the body work. To an engine build. And if this type of work would put you off buying a car. There's a place you can check out the history. Of what's happened to the car. Before you buy it. And that's with Car Vertical. By putting in the reg or the vin of a car. You'll be able to see the full history of it. Whether it's got any outstanding finance. Whether it's ever been crash damaged. Whether it's been stolen. Or exported to another country. You can then see a full timeline of the car. Whether any ownerships have been changed. Registration plates have been changed. And if the car has been damaged. Sometimes it will even show you photos. Of the car when it was auctioned off. At the car crash auction site. So make sure you're checking the cars out. Before you buy them. With Car Vertical. With the link in the description box below. And with my discount code. You'll save a nice bit of money on that check. We've found. How to torque these up on the dark web. It's unbelievable. You need a degree. Just to read how this works. How many steps are there? How many steps was that? Nine. Nine steps. To do eight bolts. Ten Newton meters. First step. Step one done. Fifty now. Do you know what you've got to do now? Loosen all. 360 degrees. Step four. Is to go to four Newton meters. But that's a joke. So that step can get missed. So we're going up to twelve Newton meters now. Sixty five degrees. Now. Only one to four. Five to eight. Is sixty degrees. Can somebody explain to me. Why the outer bolts. Are not as tight. As the inner bolts. By five degrees. No it would be ten degrees all together. Because you have to do them twice. I know what would happen if you don't do it though. Headphones go off. So now we do the inner bolts. Sixty five degrees. Then the outer bolts. Sixty degrees. And after you've done that. You do it again. There's probably a good reason why. Maybe that's why this engine is so good. And once that they're all torqued up and ready. We can move to the next step. But back at the body shop. They're still working away on that right hand side rear quarter. But it's starting to look. A lot better now. You can see it's actually starting to get it's shape back. The guys are even repairing the inner structure. That they had to cut out. To shape this rear quarter back. Once that's repaired. They can weld it back in place. And weld up any cracks that the rear quarter had. And that is pretty damn good. The next step is. So these little rocker arms here. They go down onto there. But they do not. Solely push. The valve down. They have shims in between them. Which are measured. To the thou. We took them out and marked them. We've got exhaust and inlet. This is exhaust. This is inlet. And each one of these will be a different measurement. To the thou. You won't even be able to see it to the eye. Inlet one. You can see how these shims sit on top of the valve. And then the rocker arm sits nicely on top. Now if we had took the valves out. And cleaned the top of the valves. Into the cylinder head. Which is called lapping. Then we'd risk that the valves would sit closer inside the cylinder head. Which would mean that they would poke out more at the top. And because of that. The shim between the rocker arm and the valve. Would have had to have been a little bit smaller. Which would mean we'd have to order a lot of these shims. So by leaving it the same. All these shims should be the correct size. For the valves. Before we put the camshafts inside the head. We've got to make sure that the engine. Is turned at the right position. So we use this tool here which goes onto the crankshaft. And it turns the engine. So the right cylinders are at top dead centre. Porsche have actually left a mark. On this pulley so you know where it is. And then you can slide this locking pin in. To hold the engine in the correct position. We're going to try a cheap way. But we're going to try it nevertheless. So here it comes. So we're going to absolutely wallop this in. And put it over the chain. We're going to try and do it. Really. You should remove this little end cog. But it is odd. Now I'm going to put in the intake camshaft. When this turns round. It will open and close the intake valves. This matrix bit here. Should be facing upwards. And this tool. That slots on over here. Locks that in place so it's exactly right. But I think we're going to struggle. To do this. And here comes the exhaust camshaft. You'll notice that this one doesn't have the variator. The thing that looks like a sprocket on the end. Because we removed it. And that's what you're supposed to do when you're fitting these. But we're just trying to see if we can do it in a shortcut way. Now we're using these blocks. To hold the cams in place. And then we're going to try and slide on. The exhaust cam variator. The thing that looks like a sprocket. Which the chain sits on. But because we didn't take off the intake side. It was quite a struggle. So it looks like we're going to have to loosen the intake side as well. So that's loosened now look. So that can spin. On it's own. Without the camshaft spinning. Should now be able to put both on. And who would have thought. Doing it how you're probably supposed to do it. Worked. Go on. Yes. Laughing. We're on. So these are on. But we still will be able to spin the crankshaft. And keep that in the same spot. Sigh. Ok. So now we know the bottom half of the engine is in the right place. Because we put the pin in. We've got to make sure that the camshafts are in the right position. Before we tighten everything down. We don't want any valves hitting pistons. Because the engine isn't timed. But before we did that. We realised we made a huge mistake. Oh no. Laughing. I told you how long was it going to be. Until we had to go 5 steps forward. And then 3 steps back. This is more like 10 steps forward. 20 steps back. And what did your dad say? It's gone well so far. Laughing. As we've just found out. We've made a grave mistake. On this cylinder block. Here. This is marked. GGGGGG. What that means. Doesn't matter to anyone. No one needs to care what that means. Unless you're replacing the cylinder block. Which we did. And these actually relate to. The bearing size you need. On. The main bearings which sit. Inside here. If you remember. This was one of the first jobs we did. When we started building this engine. The bearings that the crankshaft sit on. And G. Means it's a mid-sized bearing. So we can do GGGGGG all the way along. And we're like. That's fine as long as that says all G's. But it doesn't. You can see on our old block. There's 8 G's. 8 bearings all middle size. But on our new block. There's 3 G's. A B. Another G. 2 B's. And then an R. Meaning some bearings are slightly smaller. Or slightly bigger. Are you chancing it? If I chance it. It's going to be in my mind. The whole time innit. Plus if you ever sell it. The person that buys it will know. Yeah and it's not a small job is it. Cosmin. All you need to do. Is change those 2 bearings in the crank. I can't be going around a racetrack. At 9000 RPM. On the limiter. Thinking. Is that bearing going to hold up. Do you know to get them out. We've got to take out. The gucci pins. The pistons. The whole past couple of days is a waste. Well the sizes. Are only going to be. Miniscule difference. And if Matt just. If Matt just. Moves the red line down. Instead of 9000. We can just colour it in. To like 7500. This is all to do with. How the blocks made. Out of cast aluminium. And not every block is exactly the same. Hence why they made different sized bearings. Just in case the cast is. A little bit bigger or a little bit smaller. How much it will matter. I'm unsure. You've got to think that. Both sides of the shell. So it's a clearance thing. So alright. You could say the ones that are bigger clearance. Maybe not a major problem. But the ones that are a tighter clearance. I'd want to check. How tight. If you're a betting man you'd probably say. 75% you'd be alright. And if it goes. It'll do more damage than just a block. Right. Everyone has just watched all the way up to this video. All you need to do now. To know what we're doing is just rewind it. That's all we're doing. I can't take the risk of just winging it. This engine has got to come completely apart again. Which means ordering a lot of new bolts. Because once they're fitted. You can't reuse them. But it's a good job we spotted it now. And not when we were about to start it. The tub. Is complete. Look at that it's fresh. High build primer is that what's on it. High build epoxy. One quarter done. That is looking mint. Let's look at the other side. Yeah that is good isn't it. The good news is that the tub. Is now ready for paint. No dents in the quarters. And you'd never know it's had a completely new A pillar. The guys at the body shop. Have smashed it. Now we've got to choose. What colour we go. It's not going pink. But it's not going white. And it's not going black. It's going a colour that is a little bit different. So I'm hoping it's really nice. We're going to see that. In the next video. Because now we've got to strip apart. That engine and rebuild it all. Over again. But next time this will be all painted. Thanks so much for watching the video. If you enjoyed it hit the subscribe button. Hit the thumbs up button. And I'll see you in the next video. Peace out. I've been very busy today. I've watched my son drilling holes. How's your day been? I've been drilling holes and my dad's been watching me.