I’ve been working on the Aldershot station platforms — adding weathered roofs, vents, and graffiti before they ever touch the layout. The station looks brand new, but already feels decades old.
In this update: • Finish the galvanized and tar-paper roof sections • Add 3D-printed ventilation details • Paint and weather the surfaces • Experiment with graffiti decals and paint markers • Test-fit the platforms on the layout
They won’t stay installed just yet — the surrounding terrain still needs to catch up. But for the first time, the scene finally feels alive.
*More Channel Info:* Welcome to N Scale Dystopia - A channel dedicated to documenting the build of a post-apocalyptic N Scale Model Railroad and Dioramas based on Union station in Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
If you found this video intriguing, consider subscribing for more content as I lean into creating more dystopian scale models. I'm figuring a lot of this out along the way, so it's always nice to have you join me on the journey and offer support, but more importantly, feedback! https://www.youtube.com/@NScaleDystopia?sub_confirmation=1
So, I've taken way too much time trying
to decide what to do for roofing on the
station. And if I want to copy the
prototype, it has some sort of weird
shiny like vinyl coating. Um, I don't
like it. So, I originally thought about
doing corrugated roofing along this
front edge, but then I decided that that
was probably going to be a little too
crude. So, what I've decided is I'm
going to put a light galvanized steel
looking roof. um solid panels and I've
managed to use my 3D printer to create
um form of ribbing. So I built up the
model using an assortment of laser cut
strips and you can see those strips here
as the base of the roof. So what I've
done on this side is I've come back and
I've clad over top of those wooden
strips with some very thin sheet
styrene. And on top of that I've added
some ribbing that I 3D printed on my FDM
printer. The styrene is very thin. It's
0.25 millimeters and it's easy to cut,
but it's also easy to bend. As for the
ribbing, this was a bit of an
experiment. And what I did was I
designed um almost a near flat series of
ribs and roof cap that I 3D printed flat
using a 2 mm nozzle on my FDM printer. I
left a very thin strip between the left
and right hand side so that I could take
the flat print out and bend it to create
um the roof ribbing that goes on top of
the sheet styrene.
The roof on the first platform is done.
I just have to cap the elevator shaft.
And I'm only realizing now that this
would have been a lot better to have
preainted and installed. Um,
yeah. So, that's the center platform
roofs figured out, and I'll finish them
up. The next thing I need to do is I
need to look at the roofs on the wing
platforms. So, as it stands, these are
unfinished. Um, I have to add strips of
styrene to cover over all of the
connection points between the uprightes
and the roofing. And once that's
installed, they will also get a coat of
the gray primer. But I'm going to pause
on doing that because I want to go back
to the layout and start working on some
elevations and some contouring. The area
where these platforms will sit is a bit
low and so I'm going to use some
adhesive cork sheets to help bring it up
a little higher than the rail heads. I
also want to start contouring the
surrounding area and so I'm going to
need to make some adjustments to some of
the foam and some of the plywood and
round those things out in preparation
for adding sculpt mold. This is my first
time ever using sculpt mold and so I'm
excited to see how it turns out.
I need to bring those passenger
platforms up a little bit higher. And my
goal was to use some self-adhesive
sheets of cork. And I had bought some
1mm cork and it's perfect. And so I was
confident that I bought two more
packages of 1 millm cork. And it turns
out that I bought
2 mm cork,
which will probably be fine.
It'll be fine. Maybe just a little high.
So, the cork worked out fine. Having the
different thicknesses actually let me um
make a few corrections. And now I've got
perfectly level platform bases the
entire length of the station. And the
next step was going to be that I'm going
to come in with some sculpt mold and
smooth everything down to give it a
uniform appearance. Um but then I got to
thinking that I think I would really
like to paint the track. The technique
I've used for painting track in the past
is pretty basic. Um, it's just rattle
cans, just spray paint. And I go over
the tracks first from an angle. In this
case, with what is a flat leather brown.
And then at the same time, I just come
in over the top and give a light misting
of this color here, which
is considered mudslide. And as soon as
these colors go down, I wipe the top of
the rails with um a paper towel. And it
cleans it up about 98%.
I've decided I'm just going go with a
simple tar paper roof on the wing
sections of the platforms. I have laser
cut some strips that are slightly inset
from what is on the roof right now,
which should create little gutters
around. I'm going to glue these
together, tar paper them, prime them,
and put them on and see how they look.
I think for tar paper, all I'm going to
do is I'm going to apply strips of
masking tape um to the laser cut wood
and with a coat of paint. Hopefully
that'll have the seams to make it look
like rolled roofing.
I'm going to start painting the two
different roof types. The real station
platforms have some ventilation systems
and I also want to add some ventilation,
but I need it to have a bit more
character. And so I think I'm going to
add blowers. I have this little example
here from a WERs kit. This is a bit big.
So, what I did was I redesigned it in 3D
and I printed my own detail parts. I'm
going to put them together, give them a
paint job, and see how they look.
Heat. Heat.
So, roof is done. Ventilation is ready
to put on. And I'm thinking before I
weather the rest of the building, I want
to try adding some graffiti on top of
the windows. I have a pretty nice
selection of Nscale Blair Line uh water
slide graffiti decals and I'm going to
see if I can make them fit. So, applying
the decals on a fairly uneven surface
like these windows with their deep
mullions is challenging, but I was able
to make it work. Um I put the decal down
as you typically would. I soaked it with
Microsol and that does make it quite
elastic. And I found the best way to get
it to seat into all the nooks and
crannies was to actually use a bit of
sponge and apply pressure over and over
again.
I'm going back in with some paint
markers just to define the edges of the
graffiti a little more strongly.
Heat. Heat.
down.
Hey
Hey, hey, hey.