Dressing a Tudor Maid

We know virtually nothing about the people who worked at Hutton Housing in the 16th century. The names of a few male servants survive, but the rest are lost to history. So, what can we know about one of the women who might have worked here in the 16th century? One thing we can consider is how she might have dressed. To begin, the smock, a simple linen undergarment. This was worn to sleep in, as well as the base layer before all other layers were woven. Hard-wearing, washable, and antimicrobial. It helped keep both the body and outer layers of clothing clean. All women in the 16th century wore their hair up, and the linen purchase served to keep it covered, clean, and out of the way. Knitted wool stockings began to come into fashion in the 16th century, overtaking cloth stockings in popularity. These were held up by garters, tied, in this case, below the knee. A petticoat served as extra insulation, as well as sometimes giving a bit more bulk to the dress. It could be made from a variety of materials, this one is made from linen. The way it is tied is conjectured, but this apron-front fastening makes it easily adjustable for changing bodices. The kirtle, with its bodice stiffened with linen interlining, served as a sport garment, acting like a corset or bra. Red was a particularly popular colour for kirtles, being considered warm and healthy. The spiral lacing fastening means that it is more easily adjustable on a garment of this size. Belts were useful garments, allowing the wearer to visibly carry a variety of things with them, showing off status more than if they were simply kept in a pocket. Even the belt itself, while at its most basic level being a plain leather, could also be decorated with a variety of different stones. Because wool wasn't washable, it was worth wearing an apron over the top of a kirtle if you were working and likely to get it dirty. Being tucked into the belt rather than being tied meant that the apron was more easily removed if it caught fire. A jacket worn over the kirtle could help you to wear it warm. Because it doesn't have long skirts, it uses less material than a gown, and is therefore cheaper. Alternatively, on warmer days, sleeves could be pinned onto the kirtle, keeping the wearer decent by covering the snot. As best wear, a gown could be worn. This English gown is made of wool, lined in linen, and cut so that it fits closely to the body but flares out over the skirt. These long skirts make it a more expensive item of clothing than the jacket. It's held close to the belt, bringing it in at the waist and showing off the wearer's figure. Hanging off the belt, a variety of accessories can be kept easily accessible. Working in the kitchen might mean it would be useful to have a knife and scissors close at hand, whereas if she's going out, having a purse and pocket is useful. Because of the way women's purses hung from a long string, it was worth watching out for cutbacks, so you would cut the strings and make off with your money. As a safety measure, purses could be worn beneath the skirts of the gown instead of over top of them, though this meant that you couldn't show your status off quite so easily. A pocket might hang closer to the belt, being more secure but potentially more uncomfortable, depending on where you wore it and what was inside. This outfit, complete with the gown, isn't really complete without a starched bra. Initially designed to keep outer clothing clean by preventing it from coming in contact with the skin, wealthy women's ruffs grew to extreme sizes by the end of the 18th century. Women of more modest means wore ruffs of more modest sizes. Finally, to top it all off, a hat can be added, pinned on through the percher in the hair so that it stays secure.