hey folks like guys doing hope you are
all having a great day today now I know
that there are so many videos on the
internet about how to turn a pen on a
lathe but it's one of my more commonly
requested lathe topic videos so here we
go we're going to turn a pen on a lathe
I'll walk you through the entire process
show you what you need and it's
incredibly simple when you first get a
lathe turn a couple pens you can make
them and sell them or make them and keep
them whatever you want but just turn a
couple pens it's a quick win project
it'll get you familiar with a couple
things on the lathe and it's not
intimidating at all it's not like a big
platter or something that's easily
screwed up pens are so small so simple
so easy anybody can do it so the very
first thing let's talk about what we'll
actually need to turn a pen and the very
first thing there is a lathe all of the
products that I'm about to show you are
from rockler Woodworking and Hardware
and that's because they're a partner of
mine and they supported this video and
provided all this stuff for me to show
to you that being said you don't need
100% of everything that I'm going to
show you I just want to give you guys
some options so the very first thing
that I really recommend is a beginner's
pen turning kit and the key word there
is not beginners the key word there is
kit this has everything you need to get
up and running turning some pens you can
buy all this stuff individually but
you'll end up saving some money plus
having a little tote to have everything
location to put everything when it's all
said and done if you go ahead and buy a
kit instead so not a necessity but a big
recommendation inside this kit we have a
pen mandrel and this is the section over
here that will go inside the head stock
of your lathe the wood will go on to
this mandrel and be secured over here
this is what will actually secure the
wood to the lathe as you turn it keep in
mind that this particular one is an MT
two taper
that's Mike Tom number two taper and mt
2 taper that's because my lathe that has
an MT two taper in the headstock not all
of them do though some of them have an
MT one or something else really
so verify what taper your headstock has
before
by one of these because an mt2 won't
work in every single lathe we also have
a little bottle of CA glue which will we
will use to glue the tubes into the wood
and I'll show you that in just a little
bit this is a pen milk it and this will
allow you to trim the wood perfectly at
the end of the wood perfectly ninety
degrees to one of the tubes I sometimes
use this sometimes don't I'll show you a
another method that you could use a
table saw sled instead of this this kit
has three pen kits themselves the this
is the mechanical part of the pen what
you will wrap the wood around you know
all of these in this particular kit are
slimline pen kits this is the easiest
pen out there to turn it's very very
simple nothing complicated all three
bushings are the same size and the Pens
themselves the wood part of this pens
themselves aren't complicated just very
simple straight lines I recommend this
for a quick and easy pen or if you want
to batch out a bunch of super super easy
fast pens then go a slim line I've
probably turned I don't know the exact
number 50 to 100 pens and all but three
or four of them have been slim line and
that's because it's just incredibly
simple nothing to keep up with nothing
to worry about as far as the bushings be
in certain sizes and yeah just the
easiest route to go now
when turning a slimline pen you
obviously need slimline bushings that's
what is in this kit right here these
bushings there's three all three are the
same size and on the mandrel it will go
bushing wood bushing wood bushing and
basically you surround the wood with a
bushing and you turn the wood down to
the diameter of the bushing to know when
to stop super simple these sometimes get
chewed up the more you sand and
accidentally hit them with stuff so
they're inexpensive to get a couple of
these extra or to replace them down the
road this kit also has three gorgeous
pen blanks which I was pleasantly
surprised with this is an olive wood
olive wood blank which I'm really
looking forward to turning
this particular one is a bloodwood and
it's got some pretty gnarly grain so
that should be pretty pretty awesome and
what do you know bubinga I love saying
bubinga so we got three pen blanks as
far as the pieces of wood and everything
else needed to turn handy little kit
highly recommend it you also need
something to to drill a hole
perpendicular to the pen blank so this
is a small pen link that I have cut in
half and I would typically at this point
drill a hole through it to insert the
tube I have in the past used these
wooden clamps all the time as kind of
like a drill press vise you just need to
make sure you are perpendicular to the
drill or to the table so you drill a
nice square hole and beyond this clamp
you can use a clamp like this to press
the pen together once it's all done you
insert the pen assembly and then press
it together a simple clamp like this
will get by no problem these two it's
probably your least expensive route but
for convenience there's also something
like this which is the Rockler pen press
drilling jig and it's it's a press as
well as a vise for the welt for the
drill press a press for assembly as well
as a vise for the drill press so after
you have the entire pen assembled you
can back this out and use this to
assemble the pen and then also while you
have it on the drill press table you can
use it to hold the blank
perpendicular to the the bed of the
drill press and drill your hole this is
what I would consider something like a
convenience item it's definitely helpful
to have something like this but if
you're on a budget you can get by with a
couple of these smaller clamps we also
want some sandpaper to go through the
sanding grits to take the finish from a
rough finish off of the tool and to up
to like in this case we go from 150 to
600 grit before using some type of
finish and for a finish I've always used
this combination this is EEE
triple-e ultra shine and this is like a
well there you go there's the label of
it
it's a paste that kind of gets rid of
any type of tooling marks and is great
at filling the grain just a little bit
before you use some type of finish and
I've had great results using this in the
past keep in mind that this has an
expiration date on it so this doesn't
last forever however this bottle will
last you quite a while because just a
little bit of this is needed for finish
inside the pen kit we have the ink
cartridge we have the tip of the pen
the lower tube the center ring or
bushing whatever you want to call this
decorative ring and the upper tube
luckily in the slimline kit both the
lower and upper tubes are the same
length so that's very convenient we also
have the twist mechanism which is
sometimes referred to as the
transmission and this changes the
location of the tip whether it's pushed
out or pushed in we also have the clip
up here at the top as well as the cap
now the first thing we need to do is cut
our blanks in half drill our hole and
then glue in these tubes but before we
do it's very important for woods that
have grain going all kinds of crazy
directions to first make a line similar
to this and what we did here is just
basically from the center of the blank
in the left and right direction I just
struck a line that way when we cut this
in half when we put it on the lathe we
just make sure that our lines are in the
same orientation they are right here and
that way we have good grain consistency
if you have grain if you have green
that's nice and straight all the way
across and the color match is pretty
similar you don't really have to worry
about that but this has some pretty
interesting pretty gnarly grain so any
any help we can get
via this line will be beneficial to make
sure we have a nice grain consistency
from the top to the bottom of the pen
using a table saw crosscut sled I can
cut all of the blanks in half I can
cross cut them in half and then use the
inside face that we just cut up against
the stop block on the sled to cut all of
our pieces just a little bit longer than
the upper and lower tubes with all the
blanks cut slightly longer than the
tubes we can put them in the vise at the
drill press and drill a seven millimeter
hole as close to centre as possible it
doesn't have to be 100% dead center but
really close is what we're after there's
a couple really important things to note
before glueing the tube inside the blank
number one you need to scuff up the
surface of the tube just grab some
sandpaper grab a hold of it twist it
around quite a bit do all that as
necessary so that you are left with a
really scuffed up - what that's going to
do is it's going to give you a lot of
scratches for the glue to really grab a
hold of and that's what you want now the
second thing is once glue is applied to
the outside of this tube that means it
is now a one-way street into this the
hole of the blank and the reason being
is if there's glue on the outside here
and you insert it a little bit and then
for whatever reason back out a little
bit and then push in forward what you're
doing is you're you're adding glue to
the inside of the hole on the blank and
backing off a little bit and then the
tube will scrape all of that glue off of
the inside of the hole and put it inside
the tube you don't want any glue inside
the tube so it's a one-way street just
put glue on here and then twist as you
insert it all the way through so this is
medium CA glue and we'll put a little
bit on the bottom actually quite a bit
on the bottom here you'll determine how
much is too much and actually I think
that was too much because I'm dripping
all over the place and then as we insert
the tube we will twist it back and forth
until it is really close to being all
the way flush and then just so my
fingers don't get sticky I'll push it on
a piece of scrap wood and there you go
the tube is perfectly flushed with this
end of the blank and then we can use the
mill to flush up this side this is the
pen mill that was in the kit and it does
two things the first thing is this this
tip right here is shaped in such a way
that it will clean out the inside of the
tube if you have any superglue down
there or CA glue inside the tube this
point right here will remove
but if you were careful up to this point
this this shouldn't be an issue and the
second thing that this does is these
teeth up here as this is inside the tube
these teeth will mill the top surface
down flush with the top of the barrel
[Music]
one way to get around not having a pen
mill is to cut the blanks to the exact
same length as the tubes before drilling
the hole in the blank now this works but
if you go this route you need to make
sure that you drill the hole exactly
perpendicular to the end faces the
loading sequence for the mandrel is
bushing wood bushing wood and then one
last bushing now the bushings here
they provide the reference for the
outside diameter needed to line up with
the pen kit hardware again make sure
that the blank is put on the lathe with
the centers aligned so that you maintain
your aney consistency it's important to
keep these in the same orientation when
they are moved from the lathe as well to
hold the pen blanks in place you can
either use the brass retaining nut
included with the mandrel and steady the
mandrel with a live Center or you can
remove the brass retaining nut
altogether and change out the live
Center for a mandrel saver and that's a
live Center that slides over the mandrel
and applies pressure directly to the
bushing if you go the traditional wood
turning tool route the only tool you
will need is a roughing gouge with the
lathe spinning as fast as it will go the
first step is to use the gouge to turn
this square blank into a cylinder
now pens are a great first project for
the lathe because it's a very safe
project if you are too aggressive with
the tool the wood will most often just
grab the tool and and stop and then spin
on the mandrel and if for whatever
reason the you know the chip or the
blank chips off or even and falls apart
it won't be a crazy eventful situation
because there's such a small amount of
wood involved you can continue reducing
the diameter to its final size or switch
over to tapering the ends down to the
bushing diameter it doesn't really
matter which order you choose here as
the end result is the same
not all pens need to be the same shape
though some require larger diameter or
longer cylinders and that's especially
true if a cap is being made but these
are slimline pens and just like the name
implies I'm going to make them slim and
with very little detail these pens allow
the wood grain to
while the talking more so than the
design of the turning I also wanted to
show a carbide tool in action so for the
entire olive wood pen
I used a square radius carbide tool and
because this tool has a wide contact
area with the wood it's really easy to
get a smooth face and gradual
transitions that are free of tool marks
the overall shape is the same and it's
just as simple as going back and forth
with the shape established you can work
your way through the sanding grits and I
like to sand a little bit with the lathe
spinning slowly and then stop the lathe
and sand with the direction of the grain
and what great you start with is it's
pretty much up to you but generally
speaking the sharper the cutting tool
and the smoother movements that you make
while using the tool the less sanding
you'll have to do these didn't require
much sanding at all now there's a bunch
of different products and methods to use
when finishing a turning and I've turned
somewhere between 5200 pens and I've
always started with triple e ultra shine
and then finished with crystal coat
simply because it's it's really fast and
it's really easy for the ultra shine
I'll apply it to the wood with or
without the lathe spinning and use a
slow speed if you apply it with a lathe
turning also try to avoid the bushings
as much as possible because it will turn
black and stain the wood especially on
lighter colored woods wipe off the
excess and use a small piece of paper
towel or just regular paper to buff the
blanks I like to get as close as I can
to the bushings and then work my way
back towards the middle after that a
layer of crystal coat can be applied for
a greater shine and higher water and
wear resistance it's applied and buffed
out the exact same way but very very
little of this product is required it's
a heat activated friction finish so a
little heat when buffing is a good thing
but don't get the blanks too hot because
high heat will damage the glue bond
underneath the wood I apologize that
it's you know a little bit out of focus
here but you can see the sheen
difference between just the Tripoli
ultra shine versus the Tripoli ultra
shine plus the crystal coat
finally the pens can be assembled also
making sure to keep track of the grain
direction the pen tip is pressed in
first followed by the twist mechanism
and there is a depth line or kind of
like a ring marked out on and the twist
mechanism to let you know how far to
press it in at this point you can insert
the cartridge and then test the movement
to see if the cartridge is sticking out
far enough from the tip then add the
ring followed by the upper tube and then
the clip and cap are pressed on the
other end to finish off the pen and
that's that's it that's pretty much it
pens are incredibly easy to make and
make great quick win projects that you
can give out as gifts and if you've
never made one I suggest giving it a try
now you don't need a huge lathe and
there are a lot of inexpensive mini
lathes on the market to choose from and
really if you don't want to buy one you
might be able to find a makerspace or
someone local who would be willing to
give you a hand also thank you to
rockler Woodworking and Hardware for
supporting this video and being an
active part of the woodworking community
the more people we have interested in
woodworking the better it is for all of
us if you are interested in any of the
products I used in this video you can
learn more with these links in the
description of this video check out my
website at JS custom creations comm for
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