La beauté du Liban - Terre de légende - Beyrouth -Tripoli - Documentaire voyage - AMP

Since time immemorial, Lebanon has enjoyed a balanced diversity. Its geography offers an amazing display of landscapes and a labyrinth of valleys all leading to the sea. It has known war and peace, freedom and occupation, grandeur and decadence. Throughout all this, it has retained an incredible energy, legendary hospitality, multiple influences, remarkable relics, incredible cultural and religious diversity, always balancing its deep eastern roots with an attraction for western culture. Living the Lebanese lifestyle has real meaning and it takes us on an enticing journey. The uniqueness of Lebanon is recorded here in Bathroun on the stones of this Phoenician wall which dates from the first millennium BC, a time when Lebanese sailors and merchants exerted influence throughout the Mediterranean. We see the same strong heritage and conquering spirit today in these dynamic people who have overcome so many ordeals. Beirut is in the midst of a transformation. This city has managed to survive its violent history and is now enjoyed to the full by over 1.5 million people. However, faithful to its ancestors, the city remains deeply attached to the sea. On the waterfront, the coastal road is the place to be and the pigeon rocks continue to act as a magnet for passers-by and visitors who constantly file past. But it's in its historic centre, in the midst of these ancient buildings which have been beautifully restored with very modern materials, that visitors will be most surprised. If banks are one of the economic lungs of the country, business remains a driving force of economic activity, like the souks of Beirut, which have been entirely transformed into a shopping mall with new, daring architecture. Here, each historic landmark has been integrated into the new development. This desire to preserve the past while seeking a modern aestheticism can also be seen in the many boutique hotels, some of which are almost like modern art museums. This is a terrine of tomatoes with labneh, an age-old type of cheese prepared by chef Mohsen Farah. Served on crusty traditional bread, it's a classic revisited and always a delight. Beirut is a true mosaic of different religions which can be seen in every detail of its landscape and in everyday life. The Al-Omari Mosque dates back to the 12th century. Originally, it was a Byzantine church dedicated to Saint John during the Crusades. It was the Mamluks who changed it into a mosque when they conquered the city. Around Martyr's Square, the symbolic centre of Lebanon, stands the Blue Mosque, the Al-Amin, with its four 215-foot-high minarets, and just beside it, Saint George Cathedral, a proximity that illustrates Lebanese diversity. As we make our way down Gouraud Street and the Jemezeh Quarter, we rediscover the city as it was during the French colonial times. This turbulent story of colonialism can still be seen in these ancient facades. There are many small restaurants in Beirut which serve typical home cooking. These are places where people come to have a quiet, enjoyable lunch. Despite the changes it is undergoing, Beirut remains deeply attached to its traditions, particularly the culinary ones. Near the port, the Al-Tayab Souk is overflowing with regional traditional products that bring flavour to local recipes. There are organic fruits and vegetables, and a type of pizza made using thyme, sesame oil and a zesty spice called sumac, a really tasty snack. Another absolute must is the Ftayeh, a delicious mouthful of spinach and pine nuts wrapped in a light pastry. Everything in this city evokes its long history, like the Grand Serai, a magnificent Ottoman building that now houses the Prime Minister, like it did at the height of its splendour. Down below, the Serai towers over the ancient Roman baths which have also been wonderfully restored. It took almost 30 years of war for Beirut to discover its numerous archaeological sites found during reconstruction work. Slightly further away, the Place de l'Etoile groups together a number of historic buildings. The renovation work was able to restore the splendour of each different architectural style, like here for the Parliament and the Orthodox Church. Beirut never stops. The restaurants and the stores are always full. And at nightfall, the ringing of the church bells and the call of the muezzin from the surrounding mosques all blend together into the murmurings of the town. Later in the evening, people meet up again in the cafes to play a game of cards. The shisha. This water pipe has enjoyed a resurgence of popularity in the last few years. Aromatised tobacco, most often orange flower, is placed on the top. Bits of blazing charcoal are placed on the tobacco and ensure it is lit, while the smoke passes through a water bath that filters the tobacco. Later at night, local hotspots draw a fun-loving crowd that have never stopped living it up with family and friends. This popular seaside resort has become an important and well-populated city, which is under the protection of the Virgin of Lebanon, the Maronite Basilica and the Greek Catholic Cathedral. A few kilometres north, it's underground you have to look to find natural beauty. The Géée de Grotteau is composed of two levels. The lower gallery, discovered in 1836, and the upper gallery, discovered in 1958, and not open to the public until 1976. The underground river has been explored for about six kilometres, but only 600 metres are actually accessible to the public. The upper part was formed over millions of years and offers a magical trip through time. Without doubt, the Géée de Grotteau is the most visited site in Lebanon and a candidate for the seven natural wonders of the world. Returning to the coast, today, Byblos remains a quiet fishing port, in spite of surprisingly rich history. In itself, the city is a reflection of Mesopotamian history, a history that goes back over 7,000 years. Canaanite, Amorite, the city witnessed the birth of the first civilisations in the Mediterranean basin. It was here that the first written phonetic alphabet was developed and then subsequently picked up by the Greeks. The Saint-Jean-Marc church dates back to 1115 and has undergone many modifications in form and style before being given to the Maronite church by the emir Youssef Shehab. If anyone had doubts about the origins of Byblos, a dip into the writing of explorer Ernest Renan would convince them. In 1860, it was he who shone light on the riches of the area by slowly uncovering a 12-metre layer of earth containing the remains from many eras. Today, the site is protected by UNESCO, which ensures the conservation of all its splendour. The site is a unique combination of remnants of Bronze Age settlement and spectacular Roman colonnades. Divinities that protected the city were worshipped in Byblos. In a sense, the Roman theatre is the most modern building on this road. It dates back to the year 218 AD. Numerous beach clubs can be found in Byblos. Some of them are lively bars on the seashore. These clubs were inspired by those in California and are particularly busy during the summer months. Spacious sun-tanning areas and numerous freshwater pools create an idyllic place. The warm Mediterranean climate means the beach can be used late into the season. As the day ends, visitors can relax and pass the time on one of the restaurant terraces, reminding the world of the hedonism, freedom, and love of pleasure that reigns in Lebanon. A philosophy of life that explains the high number of tourists who flock here during the summer. The celebration and festivity play an integral part in Lebanese life, sometimes in unexpected ways. While driving up towards Anaya, we pass the Saint Marin Monastery, sanctuary for the Lebanese Maronites. The Maronites are the largest Christian community in Lebanon and belong to the Eastern Catholic Church. The influence of this community still plays an important part in Lebanese life. This is the resting place of Saint Charbel, a 19th century hermit who spent most of his life as a monk, meditating. Numerous miracles were attributed to him, some of them occurring close to his tomb after his death. A few kilometers above the monastery is where Saint Charbel lived, the hermitage of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. It was in this small cell, blackened by candle smoke, that he meditated for years until his death in 1898. Continuing our journey north, the village of Pchare is the main village of the Qadisha Valley, and passing through it is obligatory to reach the cedars. The cedars is a sanctuary perched at over 2,000 meters, where the oldest cedars of Lebanon are conserved, some of which are over 2,000 years old. Here, as in other cedar forests in the country, the trees are treated with huge respect by the Lebanese, who have made them the national symbol. Accustomed to seeing sun-filled seaside images of Lebanon, visitors have a hard time believing that in the area around Jebel Sinin, snow covers the summits of Mount Lebanon in the winter. From 1,700 meters altitude, the climate can be harsh, but storms are rare and the sun soon comes out again. There are numerous ski resorts in Lebanon, around the cedars or above Jeita like Mzar, the most modern ski resort in the country. Lebanon is the only place where you can ski in the Middle East. Well equipped, these resorts are packed on winter weekends. In February, there are days when you can ski in the morning and enjoy the beach in the afternoon. The sun appears and the terraces are filled with people. Classed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, the Qadisha Valley is home to one of the world's most important sites of the first established Christian monasteries. Most of them are ancient and scattered around a very uneven hilly terrain. The Saint Anthony Monastery is one of the largest and oldest in the valley. Built in the 12th century, it was renovated in 1926. Since ancient times, this valley has experienced a very intense spiritual life. Perched at the end of the valley, the Saint Mary of Amatura Orthodox Convent is to this day only accessible by a lengthy walk. We are now moving to the north of the country, towards the second largest city in Lebanon, Tripoli. Its centre still shows scars of the 11th century Crusades, then the conquest by the Mamluks in the 13th century. Even if it was founded well before 1400 BC, the city underwent constant change with the presence of the Phoenicians and then the Persians. The Grand Mosque was built in the 13th century on the remains of a church from the Crusades. This no doubt explains the western architectural elements, inspired by churches, that we see inside the mosque around the central court. In Tripoli, more than anywhere else, they drink a lot of coffee. Numerous street vendors sell it all over town. At the Fahim Cafe, time seems to have stood still. A huge and antiquated place, imbued with nostalgia, where it's easy to pass the time. Playing a game of backgammon, for instance, can sometimes last for hours. The small commercial streets hide the khan, shops that are grouped around a courtyard, such as the Frenge Asei de khan, a Sabun khan, and the Al Misrine khan, where for generations they have been producing fine soaps made from essential oils. Their recipe, passed down from father to son, remains a closely guarded secret. As in all Arab cities, the souk is a world you must get lost in. The streets, the passages are organised by specialty. Jewellers here still buy and sell gold by the kilo. At the heart of the souk, the Hammam el Abed is an oasis of peace from the 17th century, built using typical Mamluk architecture from that time. After the baths and massages, this ancient room is used as a place to rest. You can enjoy one last tea before returning to the hustle and bustle of the city. The part of the souk where we find the fruit and vegetables is always the most animated. It echoes all day long with the calls of the vendors trying to attract customers. The Al Mualak Mosque is also called the Hanging Mosque because it's located on the second floor of this building. Some connoisseurs don't hesitate travelling many kilometres to Tripoli just to eat Alawit al Jeben, a delicious cheese pastry dessert. This pastry shop is as spacious as a bistro and is a real institution in Lebanon. It offers every kind of Middle Eastern pastry. But the star dessert is knafeh, a blend of melted cheese, butter and semolina covered with crushed pistachios then poured onto a flat sesame cake drenched in rose-flowered syrup. We use pure milk that we pour into this pan and heat it until it caramelises on top, remaining liquid on the other side. We serve it on flatbread. In Tripoli, there's a discreet place where a unique group meets. Sitting side by side on these chairs, people from every religious background in the country, even the most politically opposed. The Faiha Choir is directed by Barkev Teslakyan whose passion and convictions have brought forth a beautiful musical message of peace. In the cool evening, the people of Tripoli take to the streets. We're following the road heading north. The Akkar region is agricultural land. We're passing through Baino, a popular village where people from Beirut or Tripoli build second homes far from the hubbub of the busy cities. Today, the revival of olive farming is the driving force in Baino and the surrounding areas. Youssef completed his studies in France. He came back to this region to restart and develop his family farm. It's early October and the harvesting of organic olives is just beginning. It's ahead of other farms in the country, especially those from the south. Here are two olive varieties that are different. This is a black one that's an Italian variety, which is already very dark. That's a green one, a much smaller Lebanese variety, a suri, that won't get any bigger than this, which is used both for table olives and for olive oil. Lebanese olive oil has a very unique flavor. It's because we're located at an altitude of 500 to 600 meters in northern Lebanon, in a moderate climate that is very different from the one in the south of France or Greece. It's also the harvest date. For example, it's the beginning of October and we've got a maturity index of almost two, which is very different from anywhere else. The olives are crushed here on the farm using a cold press. It's all about the variety. Taste some Lebanese olive oil. It's very different from a Spanish, Italian, French or Greek one. Continuing towards the north, we reach the most barren plains, dominated by black rock, like in the village of Menjez. On the horizon, we can see the border of Syria and lost on a hillside, the convent of Notre Dame, also built from black rock. Now we're heading south, to the interior of the country, towards the plain of Beqa, to Baalbek, one of the most important villages in the valley. On the road that leads to the old city, a building tiled in blue mosaic captures our attention. It's the tomb of Sid Khaoula, a mosque built in the 1990s. The nerve center of the Shiite community, it dominates the landscape and its presence commands quiet devotion. But the exterior is a mild prelude to the fiery brilliance of the mirrored mosaics inside, that reflect the colors and the suras, or verses of the Koran, that decorate the walls. Sid Khaoula was one of the daughters of the Imam Hussein. The legend says that she was buried at the foot of an oak tree, where the current mosque is now located. First and foremost, Baalbek remains one of the most incredible and impressive Roman temple sites in the world. It was the Greeks that named it Heliopolis, City of the Sun, but the Romans were the chief architects of what is today a World Heritage Site. The site consists of a complex of three temples dedicated to Jupiter, Bacchus and Venus. It will take the determination of many generations of archaeologists to erase the scars caused by earthquakes and war. It's the temple of Bacchus that is remarkably well preserved. Every year, a renowned music festival is held in this magnificent setting. At 900 meters above sea level, the plains of Bacchus are agricultural lands that are extremely fertile. Here in the Red Basket of Lebanon, almost everything grows in abundance. For the last few years, Lebanon has leaned towards rediscovering and preserving its rural heritage. This ecolodge, for example, entirely built from natural materials, was created to support a lifestyle that is slowly disappearing. The walls are created from sun-dried bricks, made from straw and earth mixed with water. The key to success lies in the mixing of the ingredients, which is done with bare feet. Once they are removed from the mold, the bricks spend hours in the sun drying, becoming as hard and durable as stone. The chickens are laying eggs under the sink. This in-house supply is the pride of the kitchen farm. In Lebanon, culinary tradition is passed down through families. For example, kebbe, a popular traditional Lebanese dish. You use minced meat. You start by crushing it, and then mixing it with bulgur wheat, and then onion. Finish by adding salt and pepper, lightly drizzling it with olive oil. Not far from here, they make labneh, a very popular Lebanese cheese. The dairy at the Tana'il convent raises cows and goats that allow them to create different variations of this delicious cheese. Although modern health regulations have transformed equipment, the recipe is ancient. The milk is first fermented, then it's pressed. The milk comes from the convent farm and is transformed. It takes three days for the labneh to become a finished product. It's the length of time that you allow the cheese to drain that affects the texture. If you leave it for longer than 24 hours, it will be more solid. Less than 24 hours and it will be easier to spread. On the other side of the road in the village of Terbol, lahem bahajin is being prepared in the bakery. It's a type of pizza that's perfect as a quick bite for lunch. There are many types of bread. Khevez Arabi is one that's very easy to bake. This house was the home of Shia Ram. Saved from abandonment, it remains a testament to a way of life that's slowly disappearing on these plateaus. The wooden frame is covered with reeds and firmly packed earth, a mixture that will ensure good ventilation and also provide good protection against the extreme variations of temperature in the region. Zarli is the administrative capital of Beqa and is nearly 900 meters above sea level. It lies on the banks of the Bardwani River. It is a busy town and the local commercial hub. Lebanon has been famous for its unique wine since long before the Romans were here and the wine cellars such as Khefreya, Muzar, Warde and Xara are a testament to that. In addition to being a renowned vineyard, the cellar is a labyrinth full of ancient bottles that are conserved year-round at a constant temperature of 13 degrees Celsius. These galleries cover approximately two kilometers. Five minutes away as the crow flies, the ruins of Anjar bear witness to another era, the time of Umayyad in the 7th and 8th centuries, a dynasty originating in Damascus, which at the time was at the forefront of the Arab conquest. It extended from the Indus Valley as far as the south of France. Some of the facades have been restored, bringing back the majesty of the grand palace discovered in 1949, but only a few arcades remain visible. Today, a large Armenian community lives in the region of Anjar. We're moving up towards the Orchards of Akura through the gorges of Nahr Ibrahim. Higher up is where the nomads live. These windswept plateaus are where they live until the beginning of winter. They tend their goat herds that climb higher and higher up the mountains. Former nomads, these Bedouins survive by agriculture and grazing their herds. They abandon their lifestyle in the middle of the 19th century for a more sedentary life in the east of the country. The foothills south of Mount Lebanon slowly give way to the Shouf Valley. In Pshetin, Anna Fayyad creates abayas, a traditional dress, a family tradition that is the pride of the community. Depending on the fabric and the style, the work can take a week, even months. It all depends on the item we're working on. Many VIPs have come to get their abayas from Anna. The refined designs, the fabulous material she uses, like gold, the attention to detail, Anna can talk tirelessly about the subject. High up in Niha, at 1,200 meters altitude, is the Druze Sanctuary, Nabi Ayyub's tomb, the sanctuary of a unique religion, a synthesis of all religions, aspiring to increase knowledge and build a better world. On Sundays, there are crowds of people who come to pray at the tomb of the Prophet Ayyub. The Prophet Ayyub wanted to enlighten the consciousness of as many people as he could, to express how to know the difference between good and bad, between truth and lies. Let's go and visit his mausoleum. Under the dome rests the coffin of the Prophet. On the other side of the valley is the ancient palace. Once the residence of the son of the Emir Bashir II, this superb, richly decorated building was transformed into a hotel, a conversion that allowed the restoration of most of its historic rooms. Originating in Babylon, the oud is a lute. This traditional instrument is the most widely found throughout the Middle East. In Bet-e-Din, the presidential palace stands imposing on the landscape. In the summer, the president entertains in this historic setting when the temperature is more pleasant than in the city. There is also an annual music festival, which attracts many visitors. The ancient home of Emir Bashir II is a superb example of 19th century architecture. Deir el-Kamar is one of Lebanon's historic villages from the 17th and 18th centuries. At the time, the Emir Fakhruddin controlled a large part of the region. He was the first to draw the boundaries of a modern Lebanon by unifying all the communities of Mount Lebanon and the cities on the Mediterranean coast. The Emir was also a great admirer of Ottoman architecture, and many of the buildings illustrate the great architectural richness of the time. Returning to the coast, we reach Sidon, the third largest city in the country. It was a strategic point both during the golden age of the Phoenicians in the 12th century BC, and during the Persian occupation. The crusaders built this castle on the sea to defend the city. The port of Sidon is still very active. In the 15th century, it was the official port of Damascus. Before becoming a real center of commerce with Syria and France in the 19th century. Returning from fishing involves a long ritual for the sailors, rolling up the nets, and for some, removing crabs from the traps. The fish don't have far to go to reach the souk behind the port. In Sidon, there's a place that has a reputation that goes well beyond the city limits. Abu Rami, the king of Falafel. Variations of these little fried balls of ground chickpeas can be found throughout the Middle East. Unfortunately, a part of the rich Lebanese cultural heritage has been affected by the conflicts of the past. The Debenay Palace, for example, built in 1722, was occupied for a long time by refugees. Today, this example of Arab Ottoman architecture has recovered its glory thanks to a foundation. The residential buildings overhang one of the souk's archeries in the heart of the city. Many alleys have also been restored, as was this small Orthodox church where a priest was just recently ordained. There's a sense of worry in the artisan souk. Young people are not interested in craftwork. The knowledge is being diluted by an invasion of manufactured goods, and one by one they're shutting down their workshops. The beaches stretch along the coast to the south, like here in Tir, the last city before the southern border. These long, white, sandy beaches are a magnet for swimmers, even late in the season, towards the end of October. It's hard to imagine the tumultuous history of Tir. This proud and resistant city attracted the envy of some renowned figures in history, from Nebuchadnezzar to Alexander the Great, none of whom managed to completely control it. Its archaeological treasures inspired UNESCO to classify Tir as a World Heritage Site. In 1962, a Roman and Byzantine necropolis was discovered on both sides of the road here in perfect condition. But the most surprising thing is probably the remains of this hippodrome, which revealed that the dimensions of this site could have contained 30,000 people and was 500 meters long. At the port, a day of fishing draws to a close. Fishermen calmly busy themselves around their nets as they chat or play cards. A few boatyards still build traditional wooden boats that are capable of fishing far out to sea. Marwan enjoys going out for a boat ride with his grandson at the end of the day. While walking through the Christian Quarter, we arrive at the site the Roman road leads us to. This was a place for practicing sport and the site of the thermal baths. A poetic feeling radiates from it. Here, in the shadow of the ancient Roman columns that tower over the sea, we sense the rich past of another era. The young people here enjoy the natural beauty of Lebanon and savor the delicacies and pleasures of their country.