Füllstoffe sind im wahrsten Sinne des Wortes Stoffe, die den Inhalt eines kosmetischen Produkts füllen oder anders gesagt, sie sind reine „Platzhalter“ für wesentlich teurere Inhaltsstoffe wie kaltgepresste Öle oder andere potente Wirkstoffe. Üblicherweise sind sie extrem billig, schonen die Kasse des Herstellers und erhöhen somit seine Marge um ein Vielfaches. Daher erfreuen sie sich großer Beliebtheit bei Produzenten und sind somit in nahezu jedem kosmetischen Pflegeprodukt zu finden. Wobei diese Produkte die Bezeichnung „Pflege“ nicht verdienen, denn sie bieten weder einen Pflegeeffekt noch einen Nährstoffgehalt für Haut und Haare.
Zu den Füllstoffen zählen alle raffinierten Öle. Weitere beliebte Platzhalter sind Substanzen wie Glycerin, Sorbitol, Erdöl, Silikone und noch so einige mehr. Manche dieser Füllstoffe fungieren zudem noch als Suggestivstoffe. Diese Stoffe haben eine charmante Eigenschaft: Sie täuschen einen Pflegeeffekt vor. Ein Schlaraffenland für den Hersteller! Eine Illusion für den Kunden!
Noch mehr rund um das Thema „Gesunde Hautnahrung“ erfahren Sie in dem Buch “Wenn Wissenschaft zu Schönheit wird: Die 7 Prinzipien für eine schöne und gesunde Haut” von Helena Paulus, das im Herbst 2023 erscheinen wird. Hier erfahren Sie alles Wissenswerte über Wirkstoffe bis hin zu Füll- und Suggestivstoffen und über Werbeversprechen bis hin zur gezielten Manipulation des Verbrauchers.
▬ Zu Gast ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬ Helena Paulus, Wirkstoffexpertin Moderation: Corina Klein Sendungsnummer: NHa_230622_S2_24-paulus
▬ Kontakt & Links ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬ Relight Delight Wirkstoffkosmetik Webseite: https://www.relight-delight.de/ E-Mail: [email protected] p&wVertriebs GmbH & Co. KG Spätburgunderweg 2 67098 Bad Dürkheim / an der Weinstraße
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I have a secret tip for you. Go to wikisana.com. If you want to learn more about holistic medicine, go to wikisana.com.
Welcome, dear viewers, to our format today, natural medicine.
Yes, who doesn't know that? Of course, we women always try to get a certain filler on our skin,
so that maybe one or the other spot is underlined or filled.
And, of course, we are also attracted to very high-priced products.
And whether all of this works or whether it does not ultimately even promote our aging process and what exactly that is,
we will find out today from our expert, Helena Paulus. Stay tuned.
Hello, dear Helena. Nice to have you back.
Hello, Corinna. Thank you very much. I'm happy.
I'm always happy when you're here, because you just have this holistic thinking,
both for the person, for the woman and, of course, also for the man.
Of course.
Logically, sometimes he doesn't want wrinkles either, or the children.
And you really say, okay, I want to have the approach that the skin is nourished well.
And we've already done so many interviews about all the chemical coils that are in there,
that we've never even dealt with.
And sometimes they sound really great.
That we even think that would be something good.
With some crystals and stuff.
Exactly. Ceramic microcrystalline oil.
Yes.
Who would use it?
Zero.
So with oil, it already sounds good.
But with the word ...
You don't use it.
Exactly.
You don't use it.
And today I would really go with you, because we really have these wrinkles that come at some point.
Especially on the upper lips, these hair tears.
Or here too.
Or, of course, the wrinkles and all these topics.
Of course, we are attracted to the products.
Sure.
What's always on there?
So what do you attract us with?
First of all, with promise.
And if you look through the man, if you read things like an expensive magazine or a cheaper one,
and you see that 97% of all women say this and that.
And then you look at a study with 13 ...
It's not a study, it's a practical application with 13 participants.
And 97% of them say this and that.
And you said it right at the beginning.
I thought, yes, that's right.
This correlation is actually filling up with filler.
I've never thought of that either, interestingly.
But of course it's called filler.
It's marketed positively as filler in cosmetics.
And we fill up the wrinkles.
And the negative aspect of the word filler is that it's never said.
No one would ever say that he uses fillers in his cosmetics.
He just says he uses filler.
So he offers filler for the skin.
And they do exactly that.
They feel purely visible at the moment.
So never factual.
No broken cell strands are repaired.
The tissue, for example, does not break due to sugar.
All these things and the structure of skin-like substances,
which then really bring a sustainable result,
they don't work in this field that delivers sustainable results.
It's always just a first effect, a suggestive effect,
on certain substances.
For example, both in conventional cosmetics,
and we're talking about expensive and cheap ones,
doctor brands, pharmacies,
but also certified bio-natural cosmetics,
fillers are used.
And the most well-known filler is glycerin.
With the three-digit alcohol,
the pharaohs used to be mummified and preserved.
It's also a preservative.
Simply because it binds to water.
And germs can only spread in water.
That means if I have glycerin in a care,
although I think then the word care no longer deserves it,
then, depending on the amount and content of glycerin in the product,
it will also make use of the skin's own water.
And it is called a moisture retainer.
And it's true, but it only keeps itself moist.
Never the skin.
And there are also people who mix a healing salve themselves,
or schistosalatin,
and they often put that in the glycerin.
No, because it is sold positively.
It is marketed positively as a valuable substance.
That means it is also a skin,
a body-like substance that is also formed in the body.
Yes, but there it comes saturated.
Like in any natural oil, it is saturated with fatty acids.
There are no free places that could fill up with water from their own skin.
Then it lies on top of the skin,
prevents the metabolism of the skin.
And why is it even used?
First of all, there are huge amounts of glycerin
that are produced on the market, on the world market.
So in 2020, the estimate was 4 million tons.
That has to go somewhere.
And if you take biodiesel, for example,
10 kilograms of glycerin are produced on 100 grams of biodiesel.
And these quantities, it's a business,
at the end of the day, it's business.
And it feels, if you apply it first,
pretty good at first.
The skin feels moist.
It is clear that glycerin soaks up with water.
And at first it feels great.
But I wash it off.
The glycerin has never again released the moisture to my skin.
It keeps it all to itself and exclusively for itself.
These are also these body lotions.
If you use them,
you always get drier skin afterwards.
Exactly, exactly.
Or certain shampoos that have an anti-scab effect.
The dry shin bones,
which women know so well,
are really due to all these substances.
Then there are other fillers.
The earth oils that we said before,
these well-sounding names,
silicone oils,
but also any refined oil.
And in cosmetics, both certified organic
and normal or high-priced,
99% or more
use exclusively refined oils.
And there is still this addiction
with the, I don't use a brand now.
Yes, exactly.
But the people who are dependent on it,
they don't get away with it.
Very bad.
And those who have really done a detoxification cure
have completely blown everything up,
except for the blood.
There are people who really say,
I've had this pen for years,
do I have to use it?
There are really some who have it permanently.
And I understand that.
Yes, of course, you can't get out of it anymore.
Exactly, there was a time many, many years ago
when I didn't know better
and was just as dependent on it.
And it took me a while
because the lip skin is a very thin,
fine skin.
And here it really applies,
as always, the skin can and will regenerate.
Mine did it too.
That you are in this process
of conversion,
where this addiction to these substances,
because an addiction is generated,
a desire, a need,
and you just can't get away with it.
And here you really need a mild wash
with super mild tensions.
You have to pay attention to that.
And then really nourish, nourish, nourish.
So for the time of the conversion
you really become with corresponding,
there are great compositions
of oils and waxes
that protect it like a lip balm.
But before that,
always make the creams
or masks
really with cold pressed oils,
never pure,
because that dehumidifies more than there is.
Because the oils need a mediator
and that's my own skin fat.
And I don't want to give that up for that.
So in a good composition
where oils and emulsifiers
are already given in a composition
and they help you
through that.
And depending on the degree,
this can happen in a few days.
It took me a few months
until I really
got out of this need.
And that's really bad,
because it bursts open.
I know exactly the same thing
in the acquaintance circle
with the shampoos,
whatever is in there,
Cortisone and Leister Geyer.
Maybe not that,
but maybe it is.
I don't know if there is anything else.
But there are also a lot of
earth oils, silicones,
everything that sticks to the hair and the scalp.
Polyquaternium and so much
lice that you don't have.
But of course,
I want my lips to be full and healthy.
Yes, and I tried it
several times
and only when I had
real food,
I was able to do it.
And before that,
I broke it off again and again.
I knew someone in my family
who did it hardcore.
That was many, many years ago,
maybe 30 years.
And then I thought,
no, I don't want to walk around like that.
But now it was easy for me.
Then there was always something
when my lips said,
they need something,
but something reasonable.
But you can also say something
about the ingredients,
about the fillers.
Because she will certainly
have used these products
before.
Of course.
And if you use a skin care product
that is not full of fillers,
but really only with
cold-pressed organic oils
and active ingredients,
then the skin goes
into self-regeneration.
This is also a result
of three or four months.
And if you look at
what happened there,
the lips look much smoother
and fuller,
but also the lip wrinkles.
That's always
a sad thing.
Here, too,
what can it be about the eyes.
This is also
one of my favorite pictures.
There are also fewer spots.
You drew my attention to that.
That's so great.
In addition to wrinkles and neurodermitis,
the rosacea,
which can simply say goodbye
because cold-pressed oils
are used,
a wild rose oil,
beautiful active ingredients
like lecithin, liposome,
which really support the skin to the maximum.
And then the skin can
eat something great.
Anyone who now has rosacea
and if I take the right care,
then I get this regeneration.
In fact,
you can never always say,
but my experience,
which has been there for 10 years,
we have been able to experience
wonderful things
over and over again.
We are also so grateful
when someone makes it available to us
and also says,
hey, I want to be an inspiration
for others.
It's great when I see people
who suffer from it and I think,
ah, relight.
That's how it is.
Do you know how hard it is for me
not to go there and say,
I have something there.
And that could really do so much good for you.
And then I have to look back.
You can't be too aggressive.
Absolutely not.
Freedom is still the most important good.
And here,
what a beautiful young lady.
The skin is so restless.
And there are also
these many, many places.
What is that?
This is also a restlessness.
Is that what some people
also have up here,
on the upper arm?
Exactly, these many pimples,
these are deposits.
And when the picture clears up,
because you usually don't get rid of it
for years, if at all.
And
how much happier you are
when it's just free,
when you don't have to think about it anymore.
And here is one of my new favorite pictures.
I think it's so beautiful
when the neck, the whole chin region,
the skin shines.
Just this youthful rosiness
that comes to the fore again.
But why does it get so pink?
So this skin has
this youthful,
a youthful skin has a glow
that still
bleeds through.
Here, the
metabolism has become active
and the skin gets
this natural glow, this natural
bleeding. For example, when glycerin
accumulates on the skin and expands
because it fills up with water,
then the fine blood capillaries
also become a part of their work,
of their bleeding. Then the people look pale.
And then they get
their glow. And that's just
one of my favorite pictures
at the moment, where I just
look forward to it every time.
Nice.
Great. So what
do we have to pay attention to now,
if we don't want to take the risk
that something happens to us
with this addiction issue
or dry out?
Yes, so first of all,
avoid all types of fillers.
I'll tell you again which ones are the most common
on the market. This is glycerin.
The little brother of glycerin,
Sorbitol, Caprylic,
Capric Triglycerides,
an excellent substance as a carrier
for, for example, sun protection.
If you want mineral sun protection
or pigment,
if you want mineral
makeup in a liquid form,
then you can
use Caprylic, Capric Triglycerides
very well. This is what
occurs when you have a soap binding
by means of sodium alginate.
On one side I have glycerin,
on the other side I have Caprylic,
Capric Triglycerides.
That's so cool, the way you say it.
It's burned in.
It doesn't matter, I'll never be able to do it, I think.
Yes, yes, but at some point
you also learn it a bit by heart.
I remember when I noticed
ethylhexyl methoxycinamate,
I really needed it for a while,
a hormonally effective sun protection,
one of the most common,
a disaster.
Names are, I think,
deliberately chosen for maximum confusion
and not statements.
What should a person do with it?
At best, he thinks
in today's time,
it sounds somehow trustworthy,
medical or something.
That's all it is, just not that.
Then there are the earth oils,
they have names like
Vaseline is one of them,
Paraffinum Liquidum, Ceram,
Microcrystalline, Oxycaride.
That's just
depending on the aggregate state of the earth oil.
Then there's Dimethicone,
Siloxane and so on, those are the silicone oils.
All toxins,
I'm just talking about fillers today,
but under all circumstances
avoid all toxins like PEG substances
or aggressive
tensiles like SLS
and all sulfates,
all sulfate-containing tensiles,
generally avoid them.
Then
there are dead oils.
Refined oils are not only dead
and don't do anything to you,
they contain 99% of all kinds of cosmetics.
And
they also contain
substances that
can occur during the refining process,
in large quantities.
3-MCBD,
Monoclopropanediol and Glucidol,
known for causing kidney damage,
forming good adigua tumors,
shown in animal experiments,
and Glucidol is
a genetic agent that can cause cancer.
And you don't want that.
You don't want that in certified biocosmetics.
And it is and can be
the case.
The Eco-Test 2020 says it all.
And yes,
you can take a look.
With oils,
when we have an INGKI,
an ingredient list,
that's something we have to
declare by law,
what the product is and should be.
And it's good that it's like that,
if it's for someone who can read it.
But what is not declared is
the quality.
In what quality does it come from?
For example, KBA,
biological cultivation, organic,
that's a voluntary declaration.
It's a marketing tool, because it's
something really good.
But it should also say cold-pressed.
And if it doesn't, then it's not cold-pressed,
it's refined.
And those things are said voluntarily.
And someone who uses it,
as a manufacturer, you have so many disadvantages.
More expensive price,
a product that is more sensitive,
and so on.
But the customer has all the advantages.
And whoever uses it will also say that.
Because it's real food for the skin.
And you can look at that.
You just have to
inform yourself again.
What does an ingredient list look like for you?
The way it appears by law.
It's Latin-English.
But for example
on our website
we have it in German.
Because on such a small label
it doesn't fit.
You can't read anything.
But the Latin-English,
that's the pre-written one,
that's the official one, which is valid everywhere.
I can basically offer it all over the world,
because it's more standardized.
And you can read
what's in there.
You have to say
the special goods and quality
yourself when you use it.
When you use it, you say it.
And for the
people
I just recommend
informing, informing, informing
to be able to choose consciously.
It's like with the Omega 3 oil.
If someone writes
100% highly cleaned,
no residues in it,
then you know that.
Is it refined?
But the others can write
purest, greatest,
like with cosmetics.
There are filter procedures
that are very positive
and that are good,
but they have nothing to do with refinement.
There is no heating,
no harmful substances are added.
But that's not it.
With Omega 3,
I know there are different ones
where manufacturers try
to keep the specifications reasonable.
But you can also
use a wonderful linseed oil.
You have that too.
Then you may need
to avoid it.
Yes.
Did I forget something important
about fillers or substances
where you say, ah, we should
briefly ...
I would like to say
that I have now
surprisingly, I never planned it before,
but I have now written a book
that will be on the market
from October.
I go into all these things
and try to explain it
as precisely as possible
so that later when a person
walks through the shelves
with a little knowledge
and can choose
much more consciously
and choose the best for himself.
The Bible should actually be
for all cosmetic schools, right?
In the future, yes.
I can also say something
from personal experience.
I was in a cosmetic school
and gave lectures.
And I thought at the beginning,
I was still in my naivety
of the beginners ten years ago
and actually thought
that at least once in the field
of the cosmetician,
that there is really a lot of education
regarding ingredients.
I'm not saying that they
can't do it.
But I was taught better
regarding the ingredients,
because that's the smallest part.
And I said everything about it.
And then I said,
yes, and how does the cosmetics
I work with look like?
Yes, so that's exactly the same.
And I would be happy
because it would be completely impossible
for me, for example,
to serve all of Germany,
let alone the world.
And that's why there is room
for everyone who wants to offer good.
There is much more room,
much more need,
and people become more and more aware.
And then I went to the cabins
where they do their applications
and looked around and there was
everything in there that I counted.
Everything, everything.
And they weren't aware of it.
Because what happens?
Also an experience that I once had
in a pharmacy,
they of course also have their brands
that they have had for many, many years.
And then she said,
but please no very greasy creams.
I said, why not?
Because I could see with one look
that the skin was really hungry.
She was really starving.
And then she said, yes,
because I always get pimples right away
and my skin gets so restless.
And I said, can I see which cream it is?
And then I turned it over and said,
oh my God, are you aware
that this substance here,
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,
that fits so well,
that it contains hormonally effective light protection
and that, of course,
also for skin impurities.
You want to get rid of it, of course.
Yes, and the skin gets ...
And I said, no, she wasn't aware of that.
And then she said,
but there are natural substances in there.
And then I said, okay, which ones?
And she said, there is one substance
and it was a list of maybe 30 ingredients.
And one was
pretty far down.
A homeopathic dose.
Exactly.
And they were trained on this one substance.
And it was semi-synthetic,
semi-natural.
And if the pharmacy
doesn't know that at the moment,
how is the person out there supposed to know?
No chance.
There are chances through a lot of information,
but you often go to the pharmacy
because you think.
And of course,
this whole thing happens
among large corporations.
We also have that with the midwives.
Unfortunately.
They also come with the newborns
with the conventional stuff.
And I think this is exactly the time
when people become aware of this.
I hope so.
Where they clearly recognize
just because there is a doctor on it
or a white towel is worn.
Or even where there is bio in the name.
That there is nothing in the bio area.
This is a suggestion.
This is marketing.
That's why I'm glad
when you come back
that we have this information
that is so incredibly important.
I'm looking forward to it.
Thank you very much, Elena.
Dear viewers, I hope you were able
to learn a lot of new things
about the little tricks
that make us a little older
than we actually are.
Tschüss!