Top Choice 04/11/2016 Xuanzang’s Pilgrimage Part 3-4

In the year 627, after surviving the first stage of his journey to the West, Tang Dynasty monk Xuanzang hopes to continue his pilgrimage through a less hostile landscape. At the small state of Yiwu, he plans to turn northwest, but the king of Gaochang to the southwest demands his presence. To his surprise, he will be welcomed personally by the king. The area beyond the western border of the Tang Empire is home to nomadic peoples, but this kingdom, the largest in the region, is ruled by a Chinese. Not far from Turpan in modern Xinjiang are the ruins of Gaochang's capital. In the early years of the Silk Road, the Han Empire established counties in the region, which became a base for its rule. When the Han Empire was toppled, many Chinese moved west to avoid political unrest and warfare. Gaochang now had the largest Chinese population in the western regions. In the 6th century, the Chu family had built up the Gaochang Kingdom. It's well established and prosperous in Xuanzang's time. The king is a devout Buddhist. Buddhism reaches Gaochang around the 4th century and becomes popular among the people. The nearby city of Jiaha is an early Buddhist center in the region. By the time Xuanzang arrives, it has been conquered and is now part of the Kingdom of Gaochang. The Jiaha ruins contain an ancient temple. Its prominent location, grandeur and size supersede that of other official buildings. Buddhism has an important role and is the spiritual pillar of the people. Xuanzang had taught Buddhism while he waited in Liangzhou. His name had already spread to Gaochang. When he crosses the desert and reaches the western regions, the king is overjoyed at learning of his arrival. Buddhism is at its height in Gaochang during the rule of the Chu family. There are over 300 temples with more than 3,000 monks near Gaochang's capital. In the time of Xuanzang, the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves are an influential Buddhist shrine. After a thousand years, they are damaged by warfare and the destruction of European explorers. The caves are now in ruins. The remaining murals are evidence of the powerful influence of Buddhism. The king of Gaochang plans for Xuanzang to remain and become a religious leader. The monk's biography records a heated conversation between them. I venerate your honor and sincerely hope you can stay. This is not the purpose of my journey. The Buddhist scriptures held by the Tang Empire are not yet complete. I wish to bring back scriptures from the West. Please withdraw your kind offer, Your Majesty. Even if the Pamir Plateau was removed, my determination won't change. Please believe in my sincerity. My journey to the West is only to collect the Buddhist scriptures. I shall never give up halfway. Please understand, Your Majesty. The king doesn't expect Xuanzang to say no. In fact, there's another reason he seeks to retain Xuanzang. The king is very fond of Han culture. More than a decade earlier, he had traveled with his father and witnessed the prosperity of Chang'an and Luoyang. These cities impressed him profoundly. He actively promotes Han culture in Gaochang. The Han culture deeply influences Gaochang, especially in terms of the city's layout and architecture, which imitates that of Chang'an. With the square street grid and the grand temple, Gaochang has turned into a prominent city in the western regions. The king believes Xuanzang's Han background is exactly what's needed. The biography of Xuanzang says the king's invitation eventually becomes a threat. We don't have a mentor here. So would you please stay and guide my people? I only want to seek out Buddhist scriptures. Your Majesty might keep my body, but my heart will continue my journey. It can't be stopped. You must stay. Otherwise, you will be repatriated to the Tang Empire. Xuanzang faces an ultimatum. Journey to the west, Xuanzang and his disciples attempt to cross the Flaming Mountains. The story is based on Xuanzang's experience in Gaochang. The capital is at the base of the Flaming Mountains. But in reality, the mountains are not the real threat. What really troubles Xuanzang is the king of Gaochang, who dwells at the foot of the mountains. Even with his reputation for eloquence, Xuanzang cannot persuade the king. A hunger strike is his last resort. In the winter of the year 627, Gaochang is at a crossroads, and the king needs wise guidance. Because of its favorable location, the kingdom controls the most bustling part of the Silk Road. The silk and tea of China and the spice and jewels of the west are all traded along this route. The king levies heavy taxes on the passing merchants. For a century, the royal family accumulates great wealth. However, this kingdom then faces a great crisis. To the north of Gaochang are the powerful Turkic people, and to its east is the rising Tang Empire. The king of Gaochang realizes the Tang Empire is preparing for war against the Turkic people. He knows he will be forced to take sides. Gaochang needs Xuanzang to guide it through the difficulties. The nights quiet in Gaochang. Xuanzang has already fasted for three days. His self-cultivation and dedication to Buddhism deeply touch the king. In the end, they become sworn brothers in front of the Buddha. The king pledges support for the pilgrimage. Meanwhile, Xuanzang promises that on his way back from India, he will stop and teach Buddhism in Gaochang for three years. The story becomes a legendary chapter in the history of the Silk Road. The pilgrimage to the west will be long and arduous. While he waits, the monk gives lectures in Gaochang. In his biography, it's written that each time he goes to the temple to teach, the king holds an incense burner and leads the way. The king also selects four able monks to be Xuanzang's disciples. They will take care of him during the pilgrimage. One evening at the royal palace, the king writes a letter of introduction to the Khan of the western Turkic lands. Monk Xuanzang is my sworn brother. Here I plead that Khan will treat him the same way as me. Please order the western countries to provide him with horses and protect him as he travels. At that time, the western Turkic Khaganate extends beyond the Pamir Plateau to the border of India. Without the support of its Khan, Xuanzang's journey will be hard to undertake. The monk never expects the king to be so humble and considerate. As he departs, the royal family of Gaochang, monks and ordinary people all come to see him off. The biography of Xuanzang says the king provides 30 sets of clothing for him, as well as gloves and masks to ward off sand and cold. The king also gives him enough money and silk to allow him to travel for 20 years. Xuanzang is overcome by emotion as he says farewell to the king. Since leaving Chang'an and experiencing his narrow escape in the desert, this is only the second time he allows his feelings to show so freely. My parents died when I was 14. I had no choice but to become a monk. For the past two decades, I wandered alone in the world and never experienced such feelings. Prior to reaching Gaochang, Xuanzang traveled alone. Now he has 30 horses, 25 footmen, 4 disciples and a Gaochang official named Hanxin. He has also been provided with gifts for the 24 kings he will encounter along the route and a letter asking them to take good care of him. Xuanzang carries the full diplomatic weight of the kingdom of Gaochang. After passing Yanxi and Kucha, the pilgrims have to cross the lofty Pamir Plateau to reach the lands beyond the western regions. This way was Silver Mountain, with silver mines everywhere. The silver currency of the western regions all came from here. Located between the modern cities of Turpan and Kucha in Xinjiang, the mountain is at a crucial point on the ancient Silk Road. With the protection of Gaochang's king, Xuanzang and his group pass through Yanxi. But it's not a safe place for travelers. The great Tang records of the western regions describe Yanxi as an ill-disciplined kingdom. Based on Xuanzang's experience during the journey, this book is considered a valuable record of history. It describes the culture and customs of 128 countries during that time, with Yanxi being the first. Surrounded by mountains and with steep roads, the kingdom had no proper orders or laws, and the administrative function was not strictly performed. The vast and sparsely populated region they're traversing is a paradise for bandits. The small kingdoms here all fail to keep order along the Silk Road. Traders and visitors depend on the blessing of Buddha and a great deal of self-reliance. Xuanzang's group is large, and its members are dressed differently from normal merchants. The robbers are not sure how to treat them. Unexpectedly, as soon as they took the money, they just left. Prior to reaching the capital of Yanxi, Xuanzang encounters a caravan of traders. These men are the soul of the Silk Road. Risking their lives to seek fortune, they connect the small kingdoms spread across the desert. They transport merchandise from the east and west, and help civilization expand. Merchants, monks, and diplomats often travel together along the Silk Road. With more people, the journey may be much safer. The diplomatic missions are backed by their countries and well-armed. Monks carry the blessing of Buddha, and the bandits often leave them alone. Merchants, on the other hand, are major targets. But this caravan doesn't pause to link up with Xuanzang's entourage. They proceed alone for the sake of expediency. Having just been robbed himself, Xuanzang is concerned about them. A new day begins, and Xuanzang and his team set out again. In a valley near the capital of Yanxi, Xuanzang's fears become reality. He witnesses the last thing he wants to see. Five kilometers ahead lay corpses. None of the traders had survived. The Silk Road offers great wealth to traders, but it also brings death. In that era, only the bravest embark on such a journey. Disaster can strike at any moment. Xuanzang doesn't know if he will live to see India. But as long as he's alive, he will continue his journey to the West. The capital of Yanxi is close, but his final destination remains a long way off. In the spring of the year 628, Tang Dynasty monk Xuanzang finds himself in the third kingdom he will pass through on his pilgrimage to the West, Yanxi. It has been six months since he left Chang'an. Yanxi was near what is now Korla in Xinjiang. In those days, it's an important kingdom in the Western regions. But Xuanzang is not well received. He traveled there from Gaochang, and the two kingdoms are often in disagreement over the right to tax merchants on the Silk Road. Xuanzang and his fellow pilgrims are not welcome here, and they will only stay for one night. Yanxi and Gaochang did not get along, so they refused to offer us horses. Xuanzang's group waste little time getting underway, and make haste to pass quickly through this land frequented by bandits. Their next destination is the famous kingdom of Kucha in what is now Kucha County of Xinjiang. Along the ancient Silk Road, Kucha is the most prominent kingdom in the ancient Western regions. As trade begins to flow through the region, the Han Empire establishes its administrative office in Kucha to control the region around the Tian Shan Mountains. The collapse of the Han Empire brings chaos to the central plains area, and Kucha experienced constant upheaval. When Xuanzang reaches Kucha, it's controlled by a king named Bai. However, its real ruler is the powerful Western Turkic Khaganate. Buddhism came to Kucha around the first century, and the kingdom becomes the key Buddhist center of the Western regions. Xuanzang is greeted warmly. In the great Tang records of the Western regions, Xuanzang records that the people of Kucha consider flattened heads to be beautiful. There was a strange custom in Kucha. Newborn babies' heads were pressed with planks, and the royal family was no exception. The historic records of the region confirm that people in Kucha, from the king to the most ordinary citizen, all have flat heads. In ancient Kucha, music and dance play a significant role. The music and dances of that time are lost, but there are still some clues left behind about the culture. Kizil is the largest Buddhist cave complex inside Kucha. The murals vividly depict heaven in the eyes of the people of Kucha. With extravagant clothes, plump bodies, and charming dancers, heaven is an intoxicating place full of music and dance, both harmonious and fascinating. In Buddhism, such a romantic artistic rendition is perplexing. Desire is considered to be the root of misery, so building a heavenly kingdom calls on people to eliminate desire. At the temple in Kucha, the atmosphere is totally different. The great Tang records of the Western region mention the spectacular Subashi Temple. Its ruins are the largest Buddhist temple relic site in Xinjiang. In the north of a desolate city, there were two temples, on two sides of the river. The Buddhist statues in them were exquisitely decorated. In 1903, a wooden box is discovered here. It's decorated with scenes of dancing. It's been certified that it's a sarira box, containing the bone ash of an eminent monk. This sarira box, covered with images of dancers, indicates that music and dance is an integral part of Buddhism in Kucha. The doctrine advocates transcendence from desire in secular life. But people in Kucha thought they should pursue both ultimate happiness in heaven and the fun of secular life. Religious sentiment and secular entertainment seem to be in harmony. Around the autumnal equinox, Buddhist statues in each temple were dressed with silk and satin and decorated with jewels. Then they were put in decorated carts outside the western gate of the city. The thousands of carts involved made for a grand sight. Xuanzang attends a huge Buddhist celebration with the king and witnesses a unique carnival among the people. His biography says Xuanzang stays in Kucha for two months. The famous 4th century Buddhist scholar Kumarajiva was born in Kucha. As a boy, he went to India to study. During Xuanzang's time in Kucha, he must have thought a great deal about this Buddhist mentor. With snow blocking the way, it was impossible to set out. I had to stay in Kucha and wait. Xuanzang lectures about Buddhism while waiting for spring. West of Kucha is the Pamir Plateau where the Kunlun Mountains and Tian Shan Mountains meet. Xuanzang decides to cross at Ling Mountain. The great Tang records of the western regions say Ling Mountain is at the northern end of the plateau. It's steep and towering and covered with snow throughout the year. When spring arrives, Xuanzang sets off from Kucha to continue his pilgrimage. He and his entourage soon encounter trouble. They're attacked by bandits on the second day. The harsh winter on the grasslands to the north makes it difficult for the nomadic people of the area to survive. A lack of food pushes the Turkic people southward to rob travelers on the Silk Road. Xuanzang's group is no match for the robbers, but something unexpected then happens. In his biography, it says the bandits leave after quarreling over how to divide their spoils. The pilgrims continue and a week later, the mountains come into view. Xuanzang and his fellow travelers push forward. None of them has ever climbed a snow-covered mountain. They have no idea what awaits. His biography describes their experience. The mountain reached to the sky. When looking up, we could not see its boundaries. The ice walls on both sides were over 30 meters high and several meters wide. The path was rugged and hard to traverse. With biting blizzards, even a heavy coat wasn't much help against the cold. We could only rest on the ice and snow as no place here was dry. Crossing the snow-covered mountain is very difficult for them. Some of the men succumb to fatigue and are not able to continue. All suffer from the extreme cold. The exact place from where Xuanzang passes through the Tian Shan Mountains remains unknown. Historians studying the Great Tang records of the western regions conclude that Ling Mountain may be somewhere near Wensu County in Xinjiang. The steep Tian Shan Mountains consist of many snow-covered peaks with an altitude of over 5,000 meters. The air is thin and there are few paths. 1,300 years ago, Xuanzang and his followers struggle across one of the high mountain passes. The wind was howling and avalanches threatened us. The falling stones and sand were lethal. Avalanches happen frequently and Xuanzang's group will pay a heavy price for taking this route. Several days later, we finally passed the mountain. Three in ten could not bear the cold and died. The losses of horses and cattle were even greater. Half of the 30 men accompanying him die on Ling Mountain, including two of Xuanzang's disciples. Their bodies are buried here forever. No one knows their names. They are simply Xuanzang's followers. In the spring of 628, Xuanzang and his team finally cross the mountains and leave the western regions behind. They are now on the steppes of Central Asia. Along an ancient path in Kyrgyzstan, a rock is engraved with Sanskrit. 1,300 years have passed and the Silk Road is now part of history. This once strategic route is deserted. Today, no one knows the exact route Xuanzang took across the snow-covered mountain. As a monk, he knows how to maintain control of his emotions and he writes very little about the trek over Ling Mountain. But we can still imagine his emotions as he left it behind. Without the help of those who perished during the crossing, Xuanzang himself may well have been dead. Xuanzang now finds himself at a huge lake. With a radius of over 750 kilometers, the lake was embraced by mountains. The water was dark green. It tasted bitter and salty. It was Issyk-Kul Lake in Kyrgyzstan. To the ancient Chinese people, it's known as the Hot Sea. Xuanzang writes a detailed account of this lake. Strong winds often blew suddenly above the enormous lake, which could turn quite choppy. It abounded with aquatic animals. However, no one dared to catch them. The lake is surrounded by mountains but never freezes. It became known as the Hot Sea. In the early summer of the year 628, Xuanzang finally stands on the steppes of Central Asia. The region is controlled by the Turkic people and the throne of the Western Turkic Khaganate is not far away. The northern part of Eurasia had long been controlled by nomadic people. Around the first century, the Han people built the first grassland empire. The second group to rule the region is the Xianbei tribe. In the 6th century, the Turkic people storm across the grassland and establish their rule here. As Xuanzang makes his way to the west, the Turkic Khaganate is divided. The Eastern Turkic Khaganate controls the Mongolian plateau and the Western Turkic Khaganate dominates the steppes of Central Asia. Stone markers like these are placed by the Turkic people around Issyk-Kul Lake. Historic records say that when a Turkic headman or warrior passes away, a stone memorial is erected. The statues look both imposing and sophisticated. Some seem to have their heads lowered in contemplation while others look up to the sky. From their expression, you can sense the glory of the Turkic people. In the 7th century, they're the masters of the steppes. In the time of Xuanzang, the Turkic people believe in Mazdaism. They worship fire instead of Buddha. It's the state religion of ancient Persia. In the National Museum of Kyrgyzstan, the unique burial customs of Mazdaism are on display. The body is placed in a clay container, which is then put inside the tomb. Along the Silk Road in the 7th century, Mazdaism and Buddhism are in conflict. Walking 250 kilometers northwest of the lake, we arrived at Suyab. With a radius of about 3.5 kilometers, Suyab was inhabited by people from various countries. There were few trees, and the weather was rather cold. People wore furs and linens to keep warm. Suyab is renowned in the history of the Silk Road and closely connected to China. However, over the centuries, its precise location becomes unknown. Through the efforts of archaeologists, its ruins are finally discovered in the 20th century. A stone tablet excavated here in 1982 has Chinese characters on it, clearly showing it was the site of Suyab. Some 60 kilometers from Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, Suyab is located near modern-day Tokmak. Its role in the history of Central Asia is significant. As the western Turkic Khaganate rises in the early 7th century, its military and political center is established in Suyab. The sun is setting as Xuanzang and his group arrive at Suyab. They stay in a temple outside the city for the night, awaiting a summons from the Khan. This site outside Suyab contains the ruins of a former Buddhist temple. Like other cities on the Silk Road, Suyab is inhabited by people of various ethnic groups with different religious beliefs. There are Mazdayum followers as well as Buddhists. It's possible that this temple is where Xuanzang and his entourage are given shelter. At night, Xuanzang stays in a room within the temple. He will meet the Khan of the western Turkic Khaganate the following day. He must consider many things and be fully prepared for the meeting. Neglecting any detail might have devastating consequences.