We’re continuing our adventures in NW Arkansas by going for some hikes, including the Centerpoint to Goat Trail (to Big Bluff) in the Buffalo National River and Whitaker Point (Hawksbill Crag) in the Ozark Mountains. Plus we tried to go find some elk at Boxley Valley, attempted to see views at the Arkansas Grand Canyon, and we ate cinnamon roll french toast!
ABOUT US Hi y’all! We’re Adam, Kathryn, and Kona, an adventurous married couple (+ pup!) living on the road in our self-converted sprinter van! You can often find us driving all around the US and Canada, scoping out the best coffee shops, eating tacos and ice cream (we're a 5+ taco and 2+ scoop household), and enjoying nature.
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In our last vlog we kicked off our adventures in northwest Arkansas by
visiting Bentonville, going mountain biking for the first
time, eating delicious food, drinking coffee, and celebrating Adam and
Kona's birthdays. We've headed a little bit southeast to
the Buffalo National River to explore more of the beautiful nature in Arkansas
and we're starting with the sunrise hike on the Center Point to Goat Trail.
So a few fun facts about this hike it's called the Center Point to Goat Trail on
all trails but you end up hiking to the spot called
Big Bluff. So when researching this trail you may see a combination of
Goat Trail, Big Bluff, Center Point Trail. I've seen it called a million different
things. The hike is 5.9 miles with 1,076 feet of
gain loss and as you can see it's all
downhill. So you get to the bottom and then you hike
all back up. And this hike is in the Buffalo
National River area of Arkansas which unfortunately does not allow dogs on
this hike or a lot of the hikes in the area. So
unfortunately Kona had to sit this one out.
So we are probably about two and a half miles in and
so far honestly there hasn't been much to show or talk about.
It's been kind of just walking through the woods but now we're getting to more
some more interesting scenery here. Apparently the trail up here gets more
more small and narrow and there's some
drop-offs here so apparently we read that if you don't
might not be the best hike for you but we're excited to see it.
Wow, sweet view of the river bend down here. Oh dang.
So, wow. This beautiful blue river behind me is
the Buffalo National River which is the river the whole area is named after
and it was actually America's first ever national river.
It's about 135 miles long and it kind of just snakes through this area.
It looks crazy clear and this bluff behind me called Big Bluff is the
tallest sheer bluff between the Rocky and
Appalachian Mountains, I believe is what I read,
at 550 feet tall. And it's called the Goat Trail because apparently in the
1800s when pioneers or settlers came to the area
they brought goats with them. Some either got out or escaped somehow
and so there's some roaming around these parts here. You don't see them too often
but they're down there somewhere. Are you
ready to goat back? Good one. Are you ready to goat back?
Stop. We're almost back to the van. The trail is
absolutely beautiful. We're here in November so there's tons of leaves on
the ground so it's kind of slick and if you come and do this trail know
that there's some big chunky rocks on the trail as well so wear some sturdy
shoes. It took us almost three hours to do the
whole trail and that was with a break at the end. So just a few minutes down
the road from the hike we just did is the Boxley Valley Historical District
which is basically an area where from the 1870s-ish to the
1930s-ish there was a bunch of family owned
and run farms here in the area and there's some
restored, not restored, but preserved buildings like the one across the road
here. And there's a picture of it from 1914
and if you look at the picture and you look at it what it looks like now
there's some pieces missing but it looks pretty dang close.
It's a log cabin. You can see the exact logs that are in there.
It's pretty crazy to see that it's still here and existing.
So as the name implies there's this big valley surrounded by the Ozark mountains
it's really really beautiful and one of the
big things to do when visiting this area is view elk. So I've seen a photo of
people standing against a fence like this looking at
elk out in the valley but as you can see there are no elk. We
hear that they're typically most active at sunrise and sunset time but we
decided to do the hike first and then come here so
we knew our chances were pretty slim but I think
looking all the way yonder over there I feel like I see what might be
elk so we're going to try to get back in the van and see if we can drive a bit
closer and actually see some. Might be cows. Dang it, it is cows.
Boo. Moo. You're not what we wanted. I read that typically after around
8 a.m they go into the woods. I had hope we could still see them
maybe since it's a cloudier day they wanted to...
Wait, no. Are those some out there? Oh no, is that a fence?
Oh gosh, I'm getting so excited. Okay, well
moral of the story is come here very early like at sunrise or come late at
sunset and you will have better luck than we
did. Also if you're wondering why there are elk here in Arkansas
well one it's actually the only herd of elk in the entire state.
They originally were eastern elk and then they went extinct so they brought
in Rocky Mountain elk and there's about 800 of them total
hiding in the forest from us right now. There is one out there. There's one out in
the field. We have found one. Oh my gosh. It definitely is. He's there. You can't see
him but we can. Just believe us. He's there.
Well there were two. We promise. Sorry if you couldn't see it in the camera but
believe us they were there. We saw them with our own eyes but it's starting to
rain a little bit so we're gonna go get some breakfast.
All right for breakfast. Technically now brunch. We came to Jasper, Arkansas to go
to a spot called Blue Mountain Bakery and Cafe.
Cool little spot on the inside. Apparently they make everything
in-house. Got me some coffee. I got me a butter pecan latte
and we got ourselves some good looking food. I am very excited for what I got. I
got two things. I went in wanting one thing and then I was
like well I don't know if it's gonna be enough to satisfy my hunger so I got two
things. This first one I'll give you the one
that this was the extra. I haven't seen it yet but this is a
breakfast biscuit. Kind of taking me back to maybe
Tudor's biscuit world. Oh yeah. It's got pepper jack cheese on there,
bacon and an egg. Oh yeah.
The biscuit is actually really excellent. Nice and fluffy and thick and
hearty. The bacon is perfectly cooked and crispy.
Cheesy, eggy. Everything you want right here.
And per the usual my breakfast is kind of sad but it looks really good.
I got hash browns with cheese on it and sausage.
If you're new around here I can't really eat a lot of breakfast foods. Unfortunately
it makes me so sad but this is a pretty good
alternative breakfast. So the real reason we came here
what I was excited to get was cinnamon roll
branch toast. Yeah buddy. Normally it comes with three but I guess
they ran out of these cinnamon rolls. They only had
two left. So when I was ordering I was like I'm
still gonna be hungry. I want some kind of protein
and I was like well it's a lot of carbs if I get a biscuit thing in this.
So I just went ahead and did it. Go big or go home right. And so then later after
we ordered they said well we only have two and it normally comes
with three. So we'll still give it to you but we'll
take it off your ticket which was very nice of them.
So yeah kind of saving a little bit of carbs here but still getting
best of both worlds. And saving some cheddar.
Beautiful perfect cinnamon roll. Some like little crispy parts but nice and
soft. Very cinnamony. Very sugary. The butter on
there. Then you get a little bit of the egg.
So the french toast. Oh man this is my crush list.
We have one more hike we want to do today on the Whitaker Point trail to
this cool little spot called Hawksbill Crag.
But we hear that the road getting to the trailhead is a bit rough.
So the directions of Google Maps is trying to take us this way
up to Whitaker Point but we've read that going this way is a bit rough and very
steep. So we are going to go maybe this way and
then down and approach from this 16 road and go up this way.
We read that it's a bit smoother and we read that it also said that cars
of all types could get there. But being in the van we're just a little
more cautious. Want to take it a little easier.
So we're going to try to loop around that way. So one stop on our alternate
route to our Whitaker Point hike is the Arkansas Grand Canyon. And when
something's called a Grand Canyon you can't not stop
to check it out. And you guys check out the amazing view
of the Grand Canyon here. If you haven't picked up on it yet
it's not the nicest of weather days and it's kind of taking a turn for the worst.
You can kind of see though. It says on a clear day you can see 40 miles
due northwest to Missouri. But not today.
The rain's like going in my face. From what we can see though
I bet it's a gorgeous view. You can see the rolling hills and the mountains. Some
kind of meadows and valleys and like really green grass. And
it's clearing up a little bit. But yeah I think on a really
clear day this would be an awesome spot. We just got to the dirt road
to get up to the trailhead. We were this close to bailing.
But it's looking like it's maybe clearing up. We just drove through
like a white. Well it was like driving through the
clouds. It's like driving through heaven I guess.
But you couldn't see 50 feet in front of you. But we just got here
clearing up a little bit. I think we're gonna give it a shot.
So to be honest the road was nowhere near as bad as I thought it would be.
We can't speak for going the other direction. But if you go the way coming
on 16. Really not bad at all. If our van could
make it. Any car could make it. So we just got here. We're starting the
trail. Pretty busy. The parking lot is way busier
than we thought it would be. Especially because it's a Monday.
I took today off of work. So it's a Monday.
Kind of a weird weather day. But this is probably one of the most popular hikes
in the area. So it's kind of to be expected. It's about
three miles round trip and like 400 something feet of
gain and loss. So not too bad. And the sun's coming out now.
We see the point. What is it Hawksbill? Hawksbill Crag. Hawksbill Crag or Whitaker
Point. Looks like we're gonna need to wait in
line. A couple people over there. But looks like a pretty epic view. This was
definitely one of those things where you just walk out get your photo
and then take off. It's an awesome view though. But yeah it's
it was kind of busy even for a Monday. I can only imagine what it was like
on the weekend. Because I had to wait in line for I don't know a couple minutes.
But still really cool to experience. Even like a
couple weeks ago when like the colors were like really good. Because right now
a lot of the a lot of the trees are pretty dead at this point. So like a few
weeks ago I bet it was a mad house here. Like seriously
waiting in line for minutes to get your photo.
But I will say the photo of Adam on the rock with the view around. It was worth
dealing with the crowds. It was pretty cool. I'm pretty happy with it yeah. So we
booked it over here. So we're going to kind of take our time a little bit on
the way back. Because along the way you're going along the
the bluff of the canyon I guess. I'm not sure what it is.
The valley. So and there's some outcroppings here that we're going to
stop and check out on our way back. All right y'all as Texans we have been
sleeping on Arkansas. I think we're maybe nine hours or so away from Austin.
And we're just kind of kicking ourselves that we never came and explored the
state when we lived in Texas full time. To be honest we really struggled to
figure out what to do today. Because in this northwest part of the state
there are so many trails. So many things to do. It was just really hard to pick.
Yeah I feel like we've kind of missed out all our lives. We could have been
taking trips up here this whole time. Would have been nice.
But what we really want to do is come back in the maybe the late spring early
summer when the trees are starting to turn green.
The waterfalls start flowing. Maybe dip our toes in some lakes.
It's just really beautiful here. But that's a wrap on our time here in
northwest Arkansas. But we're going to be coming at you from a different part of
the state for one final Arkansas adventure in our next vlog.
Looking. Seeing. Watching. Observing. Viewing.
Elk. Sad puppy back there who wants food. Oh here she comes.
Hello. We blocked her. She was trying to eat all of our food.