EpicTV try Crack Climbing for First Time

RockShades
98 followers
4 Video Views·Dec 20, 2022
Today I'm joined by two very special guests, Matt and Terry from Epic TV,
and I'm going to take them through a whole range of crack techniques from hand jams to trout ticklers.
Help me.
Guys, we're going to set some crack problems.
Okay.
We're going to start with hand jams and foot jams.
You do know I'm rubbish at this.
It's all about technique.
Okay, but I don't have any of that either.
No, you'll be fine.
You're going to teach that.
I'm going to show you.
We should start in this corner and what I envisage here
is a crack with these two volumes and then we're going to start on a handhold and a foot ledge here.
We're going to reach over to the hand jams.
Yeah.
Skip our feet over to some other kind of foothold down here,
up into the foot jam and then finish down here.
It already sounds terrifying to be honest.
The foot worries me.
Sorry, I've never known.
Look at the size of your hands.
Oh my goodness.
Let's get some holds on the wall.
Okay.
In the videos, you make it look fun.
So I'm looking forward to it.
Sorry, sorry.
That worked, didn't it?
Is that the starting ledge?
It feels like unnecessary to put so much effort into jamming things when you can just side fall.
What do you think?
There's something missing.
A hole.
Do we have to touch this?
Oh, that's brilliant.
Yeah, okay.
That's the finishing hole.
He's got a screw loose.
If someone had never climbed a crack before,
do you think this would be an appropriate entry into the sport?
They have climbed cracks before.
They keep saying they haven't,
but we've done crack school with Matt like a few years ago
and I've just seen Terry pick up those volumes of hand jams.
They're starting holds to get you into a thumbs up hand jam,
into thumbs down hand jam,
into foot jam here,
palm here,
then comes the crux,
foot high,
finish.
Thumbs up,
thumbs down,
bit of a palm,
foot jam.
I would say go as low as possible with that.
Oh, it works.
Totally works.
That's actually a have to use technique.
I'm actually genuinely surprised that worked first time.
Usually we have to like change these things loads.
I'm baffled by my own setting.
So across,
hand up.
Thanks Terry.
Hand in first or?
Yeah, I reckon it's a little foot swap.
Hand in at the top,
palm out.
You palm with the right?
Yeah, I reckon palm with the right.
I don't flex like that.
That's as far off as I can get.
Yeah, if you can go,
can you get it the other way in?
What other way in?
What that?
Oh, I see.
Okay.
Like that?
Yes.
Okay.
Now we're talking.
Oh, you're right.
It feels great when you go down there.
Where has my life gone so wrong?
That's good.
Come on.
That was actually pretty close.
It was slightly higher and I think that would work.
Yeah.
I don't think I can get my foot slightly high.
Climb up a bit and then lower the bottom foot.
This guy.
Here he is.
That's some genius thinking right there.
I mean, I've not done many of these drop knee.
Right.
Drop knee foot jams before.
As a student,
that's not the most reassuring thing
that a teacher can say.
I don't know.
I haven't really done it before.
Go on Tia, you're up.
All right.
Scoot your feet a little bit along.
Okay.
A bit further, a bit further.
Oh.
All the way.
Okay.
All the way in.
The right hand.
Oh right, that one.
Yeah, yeah.
There you go.
But you need to be touching both sides of the crack
for it to be a jam.
Yeah, there you go.
Oh, that's cool.
There you go.
Simple.
Just touch both sides of the crack.
Maybe it's a little bit of a tricky boulder to start with.
We are professionals and we will not give up.
Yeah, yeah.
This is fine.
Yeah.
We're just going to do it as a team send.
Yeah.
I don't think any kind of inverted anything
is an introduction.
Okay.
We are climbing with the best of the best,
the elite, the top guns.
I don't know.
My fingers don't close anymore.
So the competitor competently moves forward.
Be looking.
Look at that.
Look at that in that, Tom.
I know, that's what we were saying.
Go on.
Go on, go on, go on.
Go on.
Good shape going.
Yes.
Come on.
Yeah.
That was good.
Tom Randall's here.
I had to try really hard.
That brought the best out in you.
It really, you did, yes.
I mean, Pete's coaching started things off.
The peer pressure continued it.
Everything he would normally take out on me
is taking out on these two.
This is great.
Yeah.
Oh, this is the warm-up.
But that's what you always say to me.
It's because he's a real athlete, you see.
Tom's the only one who hasn't tried this boulder
and it seems like it's going to go
and he's dressed for it.
Maybe Tom can't do it.
Yeah, do you want to go, Tom?
Maybe.
Yeah, maybe.
In my crocs.
Yeah.
Because I've got my Christmas socks on.
So I go from here.
Yeah.
Into my hand jam.
Hands.
Yeah, thumbs up.
You can bridge as well.
Okay.
And I've got to get down to there?
Yeah.
Pete does this, might be better than me.
It's all about the socks.
Okay.
Come on, Clive.
Yeah.
All right.
Come on.
Yeah.
Back-to-back meetings, straight into that.
I don't think we've done body bridging on the channel before.
Palms on one side.
Feet on the other side.
I feel like this manoeuvre was made famous
by Johnny Dawes on the Quarry Man Groove.
Was it not in Body Bridge Boot Camp?
Was it?
I thought that's what made it famous.
Could be.
Oh, you could do that.
And then...
Am I swinging?
Yep.
Yeah.
As Theresa hit the wall, you literally turned away.
Yeah, that might be a long way.
Yeah, we could put in a different ending.
That was close.
Close.
Well, obviously I've been watching closely.
So it looks like the current technique is to look scared,
be pushed by Pete, and then scream.
With the technique with the hands.
Yes.
When you're doing your body bridge.
Yeah.
You want to go for the large surface area.
It's an actual thing.
I just made it up now.
That was close.
Yeah, there you go.
Now that the body bridge bit.
Yeah, the body bridge.
That's a long way.
Spread the fingers, spread the fingers.
I'm tall.
Oh, come on, Matt.
That's a long way.
Come on.
No, no.
That's a long way.
That is a long way, yeah.
I wonder if we should do it to like size range.
Can we see what our span is?
Yeah.
Up there.
There you go.
He just grew.
That's me.
Yeah, that's you.
That's me.
See?
Yeah, that's the difference.
We are sandbagging her a bit.
Yeah, a little bit.
That's a good 15 centimetres.
Yeah, that's definitely 15.
Boys.
But some people don't know what is legit and what's not anymore.
I'm not sure any of this is legit.
Oh, come on.
Does that count?
Yes.
Yes?
Yes.
Team Senti, we're doing well.
Thanks, thanks.
What do we think for the next one?
Something...
Something maybe not reach-dependent.
Not reach-dependent.
Yeah, totally.
That was so insincere.
Chicken wings are actually good for the ladies
because they can usually fold their arms much tighter than the guys.
I've never chicken winged.
Have you not chicken winged before?
Never, never chicken winged.
Have you not?
No, this is the first time.
So chicken wing is the manoeuvre of using your arm in the crack.
You're using mechanical advantage.
Have you used it on the nose?
On El Cap?
Yeah.
Chicken wings, I don't think I have.
But you use them on like Freerider.
So if we learn that one, we are able to do those routes, right?
Yeah, yeah, exactly, yeah.
In a day.
And solo.
Okay.
Oh, right.
Then you can take the feet off.
Go on.
Next stage is we're going to take one step.
Yeah.
And then we're going to place it.
Okay.
So it's going to be like...
Oh, yeah.
Yeah, there you go.
Yeah, there.
Yeah.
Good.
It will give you an idea.
Does that count?
Yeah, it's good.
Yes.
There you go.
That was it.
We should take like a couple of steps, you know, maybe like that.
And then in.
Oh, okay.
There you go.
Okay.
One more.
Okay.
Yeah, now we're talking.
Yes.
There you go.
You're in.
Good.
Okay.
We'll have the flash buzzer going for that.
Yeah.
If people start walking around them, I'll make them worse.
And nobody wants that.
No, we really don't.
I promise I'll run.
Right.
There you go.
Okay.
There's a hip.
How did I hit my hip?
This is how I die.
That was vicious.
He goes.
Yeah, I know that works.
So you'll be able to do that.
That's awesome.
All right.
Yeah, there you are.
Here he is.
I don't know what just happened.
360, go.
Yeah, like 360 rounds.
That's good.
What skill are you about to learn?
I'm about to learn how to handstand, hang upside down, and jam with my feet upside down, right?
Yeah.
Yes.
No, it should be all right.
I mean, we wanted to do something upside down.
How do you get upside down?
With a handstand, right?
Throughout this whole process discussing this, I still don't know what we're actually doing.
Aim of this boulder is to practice foot jamming, foot camming, foot stacking, that type of thing.
So off with foot technique.
We have our foot box, start in a handstand, foot cam, two hands on the finish hold.
I think we have to flip up, don't we?
Oh, straight in.
That's amazing.
That was literally bang on.
I mean, you need to be the other way around.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Oh no.
I need some chalk.
What was that?
I said it's underpinning.
It's not though.
Are we allowed to touch the ground like that?
Well...
Yeah, yeah, okay.
I haven't even shown you how to do foot cams.
No.
Yeah, like that.
Oh, cartwheel into it.
Cartwheel into it, potentially.
No, but hands.
Straight legs.
There you go.
Everything tight.
Yeah.
Fire goes.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
There you go.
Heel in first.
So twist it there.
Yeah, now you're in.
Hang off the feet and pull yourself in.
Go on.
Yes, yeah.
You knew that.
Yes, yes.
That was good.
That was amazing.
That was good.
Imagine like you're on a boat.
I genuinely, like when my foot got stuck in that crack,
I had no idea what was going on.
Because I was just presuming about to hit the ground
and somehow it stuck.
I have nothing else to say.
Same again.
I'm standing.
I still want to do the scorpion.
Okay.
Oh, I feel like it'll go.
Go on, come on.
Did you get the scorpion to go?
Yeah.
It's a lower.
That's it.
Matt, you know how that was really, really hard?
Yes.
Do you want to hear something that's going to make you angry?
Go on.
Pete, what grade would you give that?
