Climbing Quad Anchor break test with 240cm Black diamond dyneema sling

Would you like to see us break test some quad anchors with some 240 centimeter Dyneema slings? Check it out on this episode of BoltBusters slash SlackStack. Hi, I'm Ryan Jinks and welcome to my backyard. Go to HowNotToHighline.com if you want to read the Bolting Bible or take our Highline courses. It's all free. It's all at HowNotToHighline.com. Today we are going to break some quad anchors because you guys have been requesting this for a while and we recently put out an episode with six millimeter cordelette, but it is also common to use these 8.0 Dyneema Mammut slings. This is from Black Diamond and I completely said that wrong. Those are 10 millimeter. It literally has the tag right here. These are from Black Diamond. They are 10 millimeters wide. They are Dyneema. They have a sewn in to them versus the knot that we had issues with in the cordelette. So we're going to start this episode in our BoltBusters area in my backyard here. We have our hydraulic cylinder pump and our battery and a seven point anchor. And this all goes to a dynamometer right here because this way it doesn't go flying when breaks. This goes up to 10,000 pounds which is super good enough for these tests. We actually have bigger ones for the bolts that we break and this keeps us from dying. We also stand behind a door so we try to be as safe as we can so we can learn about safety. We have installed here two normal carabiners. Two normal carabiners. These are aluminum. They're not steel because we are actually hoping that they break before the Dyneema sling. Now keep in mind these are the same carabiners we did in the other video because they didn't break and we want to see them break and now they're compromising we can't use them. So if they break a little lower it might be because we already took them up to like 20 something kilonewtons. But they are rated for 24 and 23 kilonewtons mbs and these ones over here are 25 kilonewtons. So this sling is rated for 22 kilonewtons if you pulled it in the straight loop. What we have here is a figure eight going through to a figure eight. This is a dynamic rope. It's new and it's stretchy and we basically lost throw in our cylinder last time so we couldn't pull enough to break it. Hopefully this we want to see this break. If it doesn't we'll just connect this directly to this. But we just don't know if this will break or this will break or this will break or the knots because knots are very bad in dyneema slings. So let's find out what happens. Let's start pulling. Oh my god this whole thing got knocked over. Um okay what broke? Uh the rope. Sick! We only had like this much left on the cylinder. So this is is that the cuts in? Yeah so this is the end that was in the carabiner and this is the end we cut. You can you can feel the difference. This has been really stretched out. Look at these figure eights. Like they were I you know thought they were pretty dressed but when you pull on them that much and it's only pulling on one strand you know. So I don't know how important dress knots are. Wow that's just oh yeah that's super screwed up. Um but did this how's this? This that's weird. Why is that out? Okay so that the carabiner must have come open when it was flying backwards. Okay um they feel like they're all right. Oh and here's here's another carabiner that unclipped from two strands. What? This one's because this is the way it was. Yeah dude that stuff's bouncing around a lot. What did our rope give us? 23.000 kilonewtons. Sick. That's pretty good for a rope that's going around a bin like. I don't know that's pretty that's pretty good. You can't really generate that climbing. So well let's connect directly to here and see what these break at. Kind of nervous. It's at 40.55 kilonewtons at least when it broke uh in the knot here. You can see in the knot right there. Um it looked like it broke on this side of it and so it still has two of the strands holding it. But they they look like they're close to going they're close to going and so um let's let's just keep pulling. So that was quite dramatic. Oh shit what even happened here? So there this this broke. I think this is the first thing that broke coming around here. Okay maybe this one. I mean just look at this what a gnarly mess. And like that's oh those are about to go. Okay what? So did it break here the second time with the two carabiners pulling? Possibly. It's really hard to recreate. So this was in the knot. Yeah. This was in the knot. I and then that broke from the carabiners maybe. And this is our. But these still work. Our keeper strand here. Our keeper strand didn't uh because this side didn't break it didn't need to engage this. And it went underneath our catcher. Clustered this up. Almost hit the camera. Whoa. 30.1 on the second round. Because we had 40 something before. Yeah. Um and these carabiners. Damn dude. These uh they kind of work. I mean we could reuse them. Not for climbing. How's that for cyclic loading? So we were kind of disappointed the carabiners didn't break. So we're going to try one more time. We have this loaded on the shelf of the quad. Um and directly to the bolts. All we did was take this from the um other bolt and clip it into the shelf here. Because that is another clipping point that is commonly used. Yep. So uh these have been uh basically twice as strong as our six millimeter test in the other video. Now this is new and that was old. But you know still twice as strong. A little bit anticlimactic. 13.1 kilonewtons. And we sucked it in about a foot after we got to that point. And it's it must be pulling through the the knob. Yeah it's just slipping. Dyneema's a slippery animal. Welcome to my garage. Where we are going to continue to break this on slack snap. Where we have the dynos on this side. A 20 foot rectangle and a 20 to 1 pulley system over here. Uh what we have right now is the same quad anchor setup as we had out there. Because we want to do another test to make sure we're getting consistent results. And to see what rabbit holes we want to dive down before we kind of change up how we start pulling on this. By the way Black Diamond did not sponsor this video and nobody donated these things. We just bought them. So if you could go on PayPal and donate a few dollars to help cover this test or the next test if you have a request please do so. And if you watch all these episodes please become a patron and donate per episode. And if you like coffee just started a coffee business with my friends. It is instant coffee and it is specialty espresso. It's really good. So go to brewjuno.com and it helps support this channel. Because everything is based on donations. We don't make money here on YouTube. We depend on you. Let's get breaking. Uh what happened? Uh damn. Okay our catcher caught it. If we didn't have this this shit would be everywhere. Did it? Wait you know it's here. See that? What is that? I think. God. Putting Humpty Dumpty back together again. I think these two failed outside of the knot and this one. Oh Dyneema. No Dyneema slips right? Okay. And so this might have just slipped out once once these three strands broke. Okay let's assume that happened. But 39.9. This was less than outside. Less than a kilonewton difference. Okay yeah we're really really close. The um the only difference we have here are steel carabiners but basically all roughly the same. You know for bend radiuses and stuff. And then we have um 8,950 pounds of force. So Dyneema's slippery. Got it. It it completely squished my label. No it's over here. No my my 853 label. Okay so I was watching the dyno while it was all happening. It was 9.5 while it was slipping. And then it like got stuck on that knot and got to 14.4. Yeah. So our max force on this thing was 3,200. Why you don't join Dyneema together with knots like you would your other ropes because they slip. If you want to die that is what you would do right there. So Bobby is setting up right now a carabiner on two strands and another carabiner on another two strands for a super redundant master point. Same system as up here. Our previous test was only uh two carabiners in the same three strands. So what do you think's gonna happen? I think it'll break a little bit stronger unless the metal of these carabiners happens to pinch the Dyneema cut it. I prefer the the three strands because it sits flatter. This kind of sits weird but I'm very interested to see what the breaking strength is. We have added recently a light which has made our slow motion's quality a lot better. And just to be funny we've used some of our semi-used carabiners and made this side a little adjustable. So uh and we even use and steel and bolts and everything in order to hold the machine down. So yeah there's a lot of components to this baby. We spent a while designing this thing. It's freaking nuts. So it broke in the knot on the other side of the knot. Oh hold on run that by me again. Oh yeah so it broke these two strands on the other. Okay and that's this knot. Yeah. This knot is the shelf. Interesting. So this is still the two these are the two strands two sets. Cool. Okay this failed. On the other side. Yeah on this side and so what do we get? 40.70. Okay so and 100 pounds difference. 89.50. Um I suppose we could just keep pulling. Uh it is very good to know that if this sling is broken it will continue to pull out and you will die because 2.35 kilonewtons is not very much. Would you like to know how to weld Dyneema? Keep it up to 40 kilonewtons. Oh my god. Huh. In a moment we are going to uh film a sliding x with a 240 centimeter sling. I realized I wasn't quite sure how to do that with four strands. This breaks at about 44 kilonewtons if you just do a normal sliding x because we did that in another episode where we used Mammut slings which also have an mds of 22 kilonewtons. But in this case we're curious if we can do an 88 kilonewton anchor and uh because the quads are kind of like I don't know there's nothing else to test with them. We're really really curious. So how not to do this Bobby? So see I have the two strands on either side. Yep. Here and clip all four strands down here. Okay. Um and then say I have a failure there. Oof. So that sliding x um is not redundant in the case of a bolt failure. Which which is pretty bad. Like you lose a lot of value. Okay. But see how. Gotcha. So separated. Yep that'll kill you. One from each side then make the sliding x. That's not easy to screw up. So if you're ever making a sliding x with four strands be aware of. Yeah like if you're really not sure for congested. Yeah. So let's see if this holds. So that catches like you want it to. Perfect. Let's break it. We have installed the double sliding x but a few thoughts is that you have to eliminate a lot of weak weak 50 kilonewton items. So we're going to directly into this monster and we made sure we did it you know all right. And into another monster shackle and only this dyno um the other ones the 20,000 one isn't working. This dyno is not strong enough. Uh shockingly. I didn't leave the room for that one. So I think it shifted is what happened. Yeah. And then and then that's what we heard. And at 12,000 something pounds when that happened. But now it's 21,250 pounds of force. Twice this strength. I'm glad we didn't actually use this at all. Or the even the 20,000 pound one. Well that's more than 80. We thought we were gonna get 80. Yeah and look at how many places it broke. That's the same sling. What the heck. Okay so we are done breaking quad anchors and we did a fun test. So let us know in the comments below your PayPal donations what you want to see broken next. We're always curious about what you think. How we should dive a little deeper into a rabbit hole or start a whole new rabbit hole. Make sure you smash that like button instead of smashing your quad anchors. But be sure to follow like and subscribe on Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube because I'm posting stuff all the time on all those platforms. Cheers! Hey thanks for watching but please don't be an idiot and try to go highlining or climbing or repeat the stunts you see on this channel without going with someone who knows what they're doing. These sports come at a very high risk but can be done safely and that's what this channel is devoted to. Helping you understand what you're looking at when you do get the chance to learn from somebody in person. We have tons of resources. They're all free and they're all at hownottohighline.com. We have the Bolting Bible which we just finished the 2.02 version 2020 version and it's 133 pages, 426 photos, 216 links that work. It's super thorough if you want to learn bolting. And we also have Highline University International which is all free courses now and Highlining 101 is done. How to use a highline that's already rigged and we are doing the anchors and rigging and rope jumping and space nets and more simultaneously with a large group of people now that we've made this open source. It's going to be just like the Bolting Bible. It's got lots of photos, lots of links, and literally everything on the topic. We also have a way to get you plugged into the slackline community. We have a list of Facebook groups on slackademics.com that you can hit control F, find your area, and find the groups that all coordinate when and where they're going slacklining so you can get connected with our slack family. Another free book we have on hownottohighline.com is the Book of Slack. There is some slack religious stuff at the beginning because we think that's funny but the rest of it is about flow state and about the history of slackline. It's a thorough deep book. It's awesome. Go check that out and no I don't make money on YouTube. You need millions of subscribers just to make a living at it. I do this for a fun hobby and because I really want the information that I wish I had when I started available for the next generation. We believe that safe information should not be withheld for only those who can afford it but it does cost thousands of dollars a year to run this channel. Bolt Busters cost me like $10,000, slack snapping cheap, and the websites cost money and yada yada. If you're watching all the episodes please become a Patreon on patreon.com and if you take the courses please donate $20 if you've gone all the way through and benefited from it and if you read the entire bolting bible, learned how to bolt, and bolted something without having to go through a learning curve wasting money, please donate $20 on PayPal. We literally only survive off of donations for this channel. I did recently start a specialty instant coffee business with my friend. It's great for camping. It's great for van life. It's great for everyday drinking. It's really great espresso. We freeze dry it. All you have to do is add water and you can get our coffee at brewjuno.com and make sure you like us on Facebook and follow us on Instagram and subscribe to us on YouTube because we are posting stuff all the time and don't forget to smash that like button. Cheers!