EASY DIY Wooden Triangle Christmas Tree

We just made this DIY wooden lighted Christmas tree to sell at our craft show this week and we'll show you how we did it right now. What is up? Welcome back. Do you like to do it, build it, or make it? So do we. And we have a new video each week. This week we're getting the band back together. Me, Pocket Saw, and Brad are going to be making some wooden triangle Christmas trees. Yeah, so we were looking for kind of a quick and easy project for this week. We're still working on those last craft shows of the year. So we thought we'd make this like a two multi-purpose project for this week. It's going to be two reasons. One, we can do a video and it's a quick and easy Christmas craft that you can make. Second, it's something that we can sell at the craft show. That's right. That's what I'm thinking. Yeah, that's definitely what he's thinking. Step one. We're going to gather all of our supplies. We needed one, one by two, the eight footer with the squared edges. That way it looks classy. We're going to use this pine board, but you can get these in other wood variations and you can leave this unfinished. It's a nice natural look so you can get it in oak or poplar or other types of wood to give it that nice green and just different interest elements to it. A little pop of green. We'll also need some glue. We're going to use some star bond thick. That way it holds it quickly until we can get a good brad nail in there. We're using a one inch brad nail. Then we're going to add some fairy lights here. These are little led ultra slim wired leds. Ultra slim. We're going to add these. Now we want to use eyelets, but we didn't get eyelets. We couldn't find eyelets when we were at the store. So plan B, use what you have. We're going to use these three quarter inch 16. They're like finishing nails. Yeah. With a fat head on them. Yes. These little finishing nails. So we're going to wrap our lights around so that the head, the head will keep them from sliding off. But I would recommend the little eyelets. If you guys are going to try this. Yeah. Find the tiny ones. Little tiny ones. That is it. Step two. We're going to make all of our cuts and we're going to make all of our cuts with our pal pocket saw. It's been a while. Now he's back. Don't let these cuts intimidate you. They are pretty easy. The tricky part here were the angles. We looked all over and we tried to find these angles and they weren't so easy, but we've got it all figured out and we're going to give you those super secret angles right now. Going to give you the secret sauce. We're going to start by cutting a nine and a half inch piece and an eight and a half inch piece. All right. Now, now time for the super secret sauce. We have to make a 50 degree angle, two of them on the eight and a half inch piece and the nine and a half inch piece. But my miter saw only goes to 45. So to make my 50 degree, I'm going to use this piece of scrap wood. I'm going to cut this to 40 degrees. Then I'll be able to use this as like a guide or a block or a jig. So I'll be able to hit my 50 degree marks by then setting my head to 10 degrees. I'll show you what I mean here. Oh, safety first. I love these pink glasses. Everything looks so much happier. I know. I love pink lenses. If I forget I have them on and I take them off, I suddenly look depressed. All right. So I cut it this way. Now I'm going to turn it this way. And that's my little jig. But now I'm going to set this at 10 degrees because 10 degrees plus 40 degrees will give me my 50 degrees. So I'll set this right here. I'm trying to get that blade to hit that back corner. So where is your board set? Does it really matter? I have my board set here. And the blade is going to cross at the corner. Yes, I'm going to try to get the blade to cross at the corner. And if I can't get it, I'll start out here and then I can move in here. I'll show you. So I have it set to 10 degrees now. 10 degrees with a 40 degree jig. And I'll cut it a little long and then I can ease into it. Maybe I'll nail it the first time. There's no real ease. Well, I can. I need a little bit right there. So we'll just butt it up against the blade. Now we'll do the nine and a half inch one the same way. Okay. I'll even start out here and show you how to ease in. So it should fit like that. Yeah, show me. Show you this perfectness. With your hand, you're covering it. That's right. Oops. All right. So all the rest are going to be easy. We're just going to set. We're going to set it to 20 degrees and make all the other cuts. 20 degrees. Yep. We're going to hit the other end again, just trying to hit the corner, but at a 20 degree instead. Now on the same angle or opposite? It's going to be this way. We're going to try to make them so that they're good. There you go. That's got a nice bottom. Next, we're going to cut four one by two pieces at six inches, having a 20 degree miter on both the top and bottom of that piece. So we're going to leave it at 20 degrees. I'm going to trim off the end. And then I'm going to leave a stop block at about six inches. And then just butt them up against and do all four. So I've trimmed my end at 20 degrees. I've set my stop block at six inches. I'm going to use the short side up against the fence and then hit the stop block with the corner and I'm going to cut it at six inches. There you go. I need four of these now. So I'm going to leave it this way, short end up against the fence, right? Yeah, short end up against the fence. So we got four of these. All right, now we got to lay it out so that we can measure the bottom. I think it's going to be eight inches, but we're going to lay it out so I can measure the bottom. Oh, first, I'm going to measure an inch up on everything. Everything over that nine inch. So mark an inch on everything. So we'll now make sure everything's lined up. You want one inch from the long end and a little tip? Yeah, from the tip. Well, one inch up from the bottom, I guess. Now we'll just measure from tip to tip. From this side to this side. Oh, what is that? Eight and three quarter inches. So I'll do eight and three quarter inches on the back side. Yeah, from the long end. I'll cut this at a 20 degree coming in. It's not blocking anymore. We can get rid of this bad boy. Go on now, get. I'm doing 20 degrees the other way because it's easier. Let's see if it fits like a glove. Look at that. Perfect. Now we'll cut the bottom little base. We're going to make a little base piece. We're going to cut three pieces that are four inches, one piece is going to have 45s mitered on both sides. The other piece is just mitered on one side. All right, there's our base. It's a little foot with an open end back. That way we can put the little LED battery pack in the back of that thing. Hide it back in there in that little foot. Yeah, we'll show you. I don't want to take my glasses off. I'm happy. Step three, a time to assemble it. We're going to start bringing it all together one side at a time, using some of the Starbond thick and then a quick little brad to hold it together. We're going to assemble the left side and the right side first. I'm using the base as a brace and I'm just going to go in with a one inch brad. The nail, not the guy. There's our two sides. Look at that, it's already coming together. Step four, time for some fathead nails. This is where we take these little finishing nails with the fat heads on them and we're going to hammer it in because that will be a whole lot easier than trying to hammer it in those tight little spaces once it's all together. You want to measure down or something? How are we doing this? Are we just going to come in willy nilly? No, I don't want to come in willy nilly. I think we should put them every inch. Every one inch? Uh-huh. All right, you want to give me a little mark and I'll get a little hammer. I'm just going to tap the nail in. I'm going to try to leave like, I don't know, like a quarter inch hanging out. What do you think? A quarter inch? I'll have to tell you when I see it. Yeah, that's great. A little bit fine. It's fine. It's fine. It's fine. Oh, I might have to move that one. You old heave-ho. All right, there we go. What do you think? Interesting. Okay, let's do it. Step five. We're going to bring the two sides together. We're going to settle the dispute between the Hatfields and McCoy's right here. This is it. We're going to glue the two sides together and then do the bottom end and pin it. Step six. Time to add the fairy lights. We're going to start at the bottom where we're going to put the battery pack and wind our way up, skipping every other screw, nail, skipping every other nail, and then hit that one on the way down. This is 13 feet of wire, so let's see how far it easy. After you get that 50 degree cut, the rest is butter. I mean, we could pump these out with a little jig. We could do like 10 of these in no time. And there's a couple of things you can do. You can keep them natural looking. You could stain them and add some white paint over them and give them that rustic look. I would probably just spray them before I did the fairy lights. Oh, good idea. Just spray the whole thing. Spray it with white glitter. Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Spray it with some white glitter. I think that's what I'm going to do. Yeah, that's what I'm going to do. And you know who else does it right? Our patrons. We love you guys. Thank you so much for helping us out. We loved having our conversation with you last week. We had our patron Zoom call. It's all business all the time. It's always keeping us on track. All right, we're about out of time. I got to pump out nine more of these before Thanksgiving. And that's like 12 hours away. So I got to go. We will see you next week. We will do it, build it, and make it again. Look at this. Uh-oh. Something to balance. This one's easy. Easy as pie. Now we got to go turn the lights out and see what this gym looks like. Yeah, let's do it. Let's go see some final shots.