Are climbing master points made with a girth hitch or clove hitch REDUNDANT???

Would you like to see us break some 60 centimeter Mammut 8.0 climbing slings? Straight, in a girth hitch, and a clove hitch. Find out what happens to all this stuff when we break this on our slacksnap machine on this episode of How Not to Highline. Hi I'm Ryan Jinks and welcome to my gear room. You can go to HowNotToHighline.com for the bolting bible and highlining courses. It's all free including our slacksnap chart. We are going to break some awesome stuff today. Ben Schultz donated 10 slings that look in great shape but they were made in 2014. He only used them a couple dozen times and they basically sat in a closet after he fell in love with sport climbing. So he donated them and we're going to break test three straight as a reference point on how strong they are compared to what we're going to do after that. Now we've already broke test some of my old slings but I've kind of used and abused mine. So that'll be fun to see kind of a partially used one versus a really used one. And you can see in our other episode where we break test all that new versus old Mammut slings. And we have sliding X's on that episode. So you guys have requested the girth hitch and clove hitch master points for a while now and yes we do listen. We just take a while to get to things but we need to give the people what they want. We're going to do this and also co-ad anchors. We just spent hundreds of dollars on Black Diamond gear. We've spent 200% of the donations you send to buy stuff to break. But in this case Ben donated these and we appreciate it. Let's have Bobby show you how to tie these and the benefits pros and cons and why you would even do this. Hi I'm Bobby and I'm going to show you how to tie a girth hitch master point. Make a U with the sling and take the bottom here. You've got a loop here. Thread the top through. Then you're ready to clip it into the bolts. So if they're not quite equalized the advantage of this style of anchor is that you can equalize it pretty easily. Whereas a BFK you got to completely redo it. This also helps keep the carabiner in place and it does take less material whereas you can't tie a BFK with only a 60 centimeter sling. So we're going to find out if this is redundant in case force breaks the sling. It is in theory redundant if the bolt breaks. So that's one of the pieces of webbing is cut. Yeah one of the if it gets cut. But usually things break in the knot and so let's just see what happens when we pull both strands and and find out how bomber this really is. Next we are going to show you how to tie a clove hitch master point. A key here is that you're using both strands of the webbing. Lots of different ways to tie this. Basically you make two different loops with the material going out either side. You can't go to animateddots.com or like any website about climbing to learn clove hitches if you aren't comfortable with them. After you do that you clip your carabiner through and then you can clip it into your bolts and then we have all the same advantages of the girt hitch. A couple thoughts about this which is what makes slack snap so much fun. If one bolt were to break does dyneema is pretty slippery does the entire thing. Maybe slack snaps better than it. Oh come apart. We will find out because we always learn so much cool stuff on slack snap. And bumping a future episode this is a magnetron. Is that right? From Black Diamond. They're $30 a piece. We just bought three of them. So make sure you smash that like button and make sure you subscribe so you can watch us break really expensive gear that I'd really rather go play with and keep. So Bobby and I are going to stop being naughty in here and head over to the slack snap. Welcome to our slack snap machine. It is a 20 foot long rectangle in my garage with all sorts of cool shit that makes it up. We have one dynamometer and two dynamometers for redundancy and a shameless plug for our new coffee business that we're starting. Helps if you go support that. Our sample is pre-installed here and we've got a 20 to 1 pulley system all right weaved into our uh pulleys on this side and pulled in two strands into our Costco winch so we can pull well I guess our my PR is 176 kilonewtons or 39,000 pounds. So that is uh our record so far. I assume this can go up to 50,000 pounds but I don't really want to test it. The newest addition to slack snap is my LED light that's like 5,000 lumens. We basically hung it up here and adjusted it to be the right height and this is going to make our slow motion test much higher quality because it is already a low res frame but this allows us to film 32 times slower than real life at 960 frames per second which is what makes slack snap as cool as it is. So let's start pulling. Oh no it didn't break at NBS. It broke higher. Uh this is rated for 22 kilonewtons uh that's pretty good for a six-year-old sling and then our pounds of force is 5,400 pounds of force. 23.5. Huh. It breaks like it always does. We got 23.5 kilonewtons and this red well we didn't have peak force on which is why we have two dynos but it's you know this one's the better dyno anyways so that's cool. They both broke over NBS and so now we're gonna do the girth hitch. All right what'd we get? So it broke at the... At the nut! No way! If you don't know everything fogging breaks in the nut. And like we had this thing on threads like it was directly on that like and it's still gonna break there. So what'd we get? What's our number? Okay so we got 26.2 kilonewtons which is only a little bit more than pulling it straight so you get twice the benefit and then your nut reduces it by half and that's almost good math. And it broke in the nut. Oh! Oh feel that. That's warm. That's crazy warm. It's kind of fun. Wow. Yeah it doesn't smell like nylon. Nylon's pretty smelly. Um so we got... Wow! A little bit higher 28.6 kilonewtons or 6,300 pounds of force. Basically if you put enough force on this it's not redundant. Um but yeah it's a pretty good anchor for a lot of things and 20... 28.6 kilonewtons isn't bad. Um let's try some clove hitches see what happens. While Bobby is resetting this let me cover a few things. This is not science. This is entertainment and uh we're only doing two of each test at this point and like we're just seeing what happens. When you try to do real scientific experiments and really minimize the variables it is boring for you and us. And so we don't really care about that. We just kind of want to see what's going to happen when you just pull shit. So keep in mind the difference between what we're doing and what people who do standards create standards and the MBS and the Sigma stuff. It's like that's a whole different world. This is like us doing a shitty job of the slow-mo guys for you know climbers. So know the difference. Have we achieved redundancy? Kind of looks like it. Oh it broke in the knot. Here um hold on. So we got 26.3 kilonewtons and 5,850 pounds of force. Let's take um well there's no force on it now. Um peak force is on again. Go for it until it uh comes apart. All righty it will slip but it took 4.5 kilonewtons to slip. Interesting. Dyneema is a very slippery um material. Dyneema by the way is the same material as these soft shackles. Is that neat? Okay so are slings still attached? Sort of it should not be attached. It's just pinched there. It's pinched. All right so let's just all right hold on let's start with this. 26.85 kilonewtons or 5,900 pounds of force. Um let's zero one of these. Okay pull. That actually took 6.6 kilonewtons. I'm pretty impressed with how much that took um but it still slips. It's not truly redundant. This is a line scale 2 from linegrip.com. We are going to enter this into the system now because we are going to do a live reading and then we're going to do a peak force on this other dyno because I'm going to cut, in this case a clove hitch, uh while it's under tension to see if the rock rubbing it, the bolt broke or whatever and not just like 26 kilonewtons of force and see if it's truly redundant or if dyneema just slips out. The reason we use kilonewtons is because that is a measurement of force. I do have the pounds of force on this dynamometer here but that's not really uh the scientific way of doing it. We uh in America will generally understand this more but our gear is rated for let's say a carabiner is rated for 22 kilonewtons so it's nice to know what your slings are rated out or your rope and everything is in kilonewtons. You probably don't weigh one kilonewtons. That's 225 pounds of force but if well maybe Bobby does. I'm like 0.8 kilonewtons but if I were to fall and shock load something I'm going to generate four, four and a half kilonewtons. How do I know that? Because we did shock loading as a myth and that is a super rad episode you got to check out. But anyways it measures the force because obviously him standing on a scale versus me shock loading a scale it's going to generate different stuff. So just explain how these numbers work if you're not familiar with some silly newtons. We are at 4.3 kilonewtons. On the rock that is rubbing. God oh god this is abrasion. This is a bolt breaking. Oh god oh god this this is scarier than I thought. Oh I'm halfway through that's cool. Oh god oh okay not so bad. Is this redundant? Bobby start pulling. Should we even say anything? Granted it took seven-ish kilonewtons but you can generate that. And the peak force obviously was seven kilonewtons because it's higher than when we first cut it. But huh that is a very interesting test. Shall we do the clove or is this the clove hitch? This is the clove. Oh let's do the girth hitch. We're at 4.03 kilonewtons on a girth hitch with a new knife which makes all the difference. Scary. All right pull it Bobby. So that's that was like four four-ish kilonewtons was what we were getting. Now it is probably could have a different result if you did cyclic loading rather than just like you're pulling on it. Also this could be different for nylon slings. If you want to see us do the same test with nylon slings put in the comments below that or cordelette yeah put in the comments below that you're already donated 20 bucks to the cause so like or hey if you got nylon slings sitting around like you know he did like we could totally break your slings. But anyways yeah put in the comments below if you want us to see us do different things or different variations with this. But I find this to be very interesting that this is not really redundant and that it just starts slipping. This number we started at six kilonewtons before I cut it. It settled down to four by the time I did cut it and never did achieve more than that again. Intermission time. So I made this about a month ago and sent it to Yan Camu and he had some feedback and we're going to include it in this video because it's actually quite interesting. First of all he showed us the girth hitch can be done by just going over the carabiner like so and then flipping it over which is completely backwards and upside down and whatever. But anyways you got the point instead of having the tails go through. Minor point that's not the cool part that's just the cherry on top. I'll let him show you the cool part. Instead of doing that here you cross you make the X so that's normal in climbing usually you do that and then you pass it like this. Instant replay. Put a sliding X in it and then a lot easier when you have something hanging on you put it over the carabiner girth hitch. So put in the comments below what you think of this. The theory is that if it does slip it will go all the way to the end of the slippage. There we go. If it slips it basically looks like this which doesn't slip off entirely. Kind of like sliding X's work. I'm not going to brake test this for this video because it's already kind of long and my brake test machine has stuff on it. But tell me what you think about this. We will test this eventually. Make sure you like us on Instagram because I might just post this as one of a quickie 10 second brake test video. You might miss it if you're only on YouTube. We're about to do two more fun tests now that we're pretty satisfied with what we just did. But please if you watch all my episodes please become a patron on patreon.com. It really helps pay for a lot of the editing of these videos. You'll donate on PayPal 20 bucks. It helps pay for the stuff we buy to brake on here. These were donated but we just spent like $700 on black diamond gear we're going to brake tomorrow. And also go to hownottohighline.com. We just made everything free. It's simpler that way. We have Bolt the Bolting Bible which is done. Super awesome. 133 pages. 426 photos. 216 links. That work. And if you trust your life to bolts you should go check it out for 20-30 minutes. If you want to like study it learn and go bolt something go through the whole thing in detail. It literally has everything on the internet about bolting. If you do go through the whole book spot us 20 bucks. If you go through the whole courses that we have on hownottohighline.com at Highline University spot us 20 bucks if it changed your life and made your life a little bit better. Otherwise just glance through them and enjoy them. We have four more courses we're working on simultaneously right now. That'll be coming out in probably just three or four months. Maybe even sooner because I've got a lot of help. If you're a highliner and want to get involved on the rigging and anchors and space net courses we're doing hit me up private message me. And I just started a coffee business with my friends and we are making instant coffee that tastes really good because it's high-end espresso. If you will support that business it also helps too. Now let's get to these last two awesome tests. How strong is this sling? If I only cut a little bit of it. Sometimes we get nicks in our slings and they can be kind of scary to use. So I'm just going to put like a nick that I would consider still using my sling. If I saw what I have right here. Now we're going to pull it and see how much strength was reduced. Well that's interesting. That's the cut. It didn't break at the cut. Well and it also broke at like 23.6 kilonewtons. So basically we got basically full strength after I cut through as you can see here. Just that outer red color. Now I don't think it's safe to use slings that you depend your life on if they're cut like this. Like it's your life. Like it's not worth it but it's sure interesting. So there's my disclaimer. Okay our last test. Let's cut it a little bit more. Right now we've got one kilonewton on it. And in between these two sharpie marks is where I'm going to put it. It's almost about 30% I think right there. What do you think? Like I would consider using this sling if I had no other options. The question is do you use a knot to bypass this? At what point do you lose more strength? Because the knots like takes at least 50% out of a Dyneema sling versus just having this little nick in here. Yeah. Gnarly. Okay uh where's my sharpie? No. No way. No way bro. Woo those dinos are like spot on to each other. That's pretty cool. Uh 46 50. Um no way. Okay we broke other slings in another video where we put an overhand knot and reduced it like by half. It's it's really hard to say a conclusion on here so you don't sue me. But like this would be better to highlight like not highlight to climb with than to stick a knot in it. Like what do you guys think? Put in the comments below if you think that's insane for me to even mention out loud because obviously that seems uh I don't know slack religious to say something like that. What would you do Bobby? I'd be really put tempted to bypass this with a knot if I saw this when I was. Uh-huh I think I still would but like we know knots. Buck up Dyneema so. Thanks for joining us in my test bed. Let us know in the comments below what else you want to see broken. We're pretty excited about quad anchors. Uh let us know maybe different styles. We're going to use Dyneema slings and accessory cords so that's like going to be pretty cool. These anchors just because they're not like they're not redundant it doesn't mean they're not a good tool. I'm not opposed to using these when I go climbing in some situations. It depends what you're trying to accomplish what you're trying to prevent from being redundant. But it takes less material and it is uh adjustable so it depends what your priorities are in that moment. Just keep in mind if one side breaks eventually it'll all slip through and you're gonna die. So make sure that you like follow and subscribe on this channel because we're not stopping even tonight. We're always putting out stuff. Cheers! Hey thanks for watching but please don't be an idiot and try to go highlining or climbing or repeat the stunts you see on this channel without going with someone who knows what they're doing. These sports come at a very high risk but can be done safely and that's what this channel is devoted to helping you understand what you're looking at when you do get the chance to learn from somebody in person. We have tons of resources they're all free and they're all at hownottohighline.com. 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