How to cut and sew a six pieces skirt (with tail, zipper and elastic band) | Easiest method

Hi everyone welcome back to my channel This is John Larry and today's video will be about the making a six-piece skirt with a tail at the back this is how it will look we are going to be having Three panels for the front and we are going to have four panels for the back because of the zipper so I'll be using this African print fabric this is the lining that I'll be using the matching Lining and then I'll be using both the elastic band and the zipper for the skirt this is optional You can use just the zipper but if you are making the skirt for a plus size customer Or someone who has a big tummy you can consider using this method so this is the method that we are going to be using in this tutorial So before we start cutting on the fabric these are the Measurements and that will be from your low waist which is usually around your belly button you're going to be needing from there to the M line where you want the skirt to be Then that is the skirt length so that is where you are placing your skirt so you measure there so you're going to be needing your low waist circumference Your hip measurements so you measure from where you are placing your skirt which is your low waist down to your hip and then you're going to be needing your new measurements So from your waist to your new you take that measurement and those are the measurements you' re going to be needing once you've taken the measurement you divide your hip measurement by six because we are making a six-piece skirt so you divide it by six and for this hip of 46.5 I have 7.75 which is what I have after dividing it by six so each of these panels will be 7.75 So this now depends on how wide you want the middle the center panel This is the center panel Here so it depends on how wide you want this panel to be So if you want this panel to be the same as e side panels you're going to be using whatever you get here although some people provide it to be smaller than this or wider than the side panel so it actually It depends on how you want it and you can also use your nipple-to-nipple measurement as a guide So you can use the center panel using your nipple-to-nipple measurement to find your center panel but this is how I usually make my own I will divide my hip circumference by six so whatever I have that that's what I will have for each of this panel so now that we have 7.75 I'm just going to Approximate this to 7.8 inches and then note that we're going to be joining all these panels together So we need to add our seam allowance to it and I don't want us to have excess or too much allowance so this is how we can go about this So for the center panel We are going to add a half-inch seam to both sides so that half inch on both sides I will give us one inch so I will just add one inch to this and with that I will have 8.8 inches so this is for the center panel so this is what I'll be having for the center panel So for the side panels I'll be adding half an inch to this side that will be joined to the Center panel and then to thelicate seam I'll be adding 1.5 inches you can add less than that I can add more than that so I'll be adding 1.5 inches to the side and then I'll be adding half an inch to the part that will be joined to the center panel making it two inches so for the side now I'll just write 7.8 which is our if divided by six plus two inches then I will have 9.8 inches and this will be for the side panels and that is settled for the front so for the back We are going to have the same side panels and then we are going to use the same center panels for this just that we're going to be adding zip allowance and the allowance for the tail so The next thing we want to get now is the M line the fullness we want at the M line so it depends on the fabric the amount of fabric you have and how full you want the skirt to be so to get the Fullness for the M line this is the method I usually use and the minimum I can use is as twice as the hip measurement which is the hip measurement times two so you multiply the hip by two and You won't have enough in this case so I suggest you use it if you have it enough fabric you multiply your hip circumference by 2.5 so if you have enough fabric multiply your Hip measurement by 2.5 but if you want it more full you will need to multiply your hip measurement by 3 and that is what I'll be using in this case so for this if I'm working with which is 46.5 if I multiply it by 2.5 and I will have 116 but that won't be as full as what my client wants so I'll be Multiplying a hip measurement by 3 to make it more full and I have 139.5 approximately 140 so this would be the M line so I'll just record 140 to the M line now So now the Next you want to divide whatever you have for your fullness and then we have 23.3 so now that we've calculated what we want to cut out for the The center panel the side panels and for the M line each panel will have 23.3 as we've We calculated it earlier so the next thing we want to do now is to cut the fabric e fabric you are going to fold into two and this is what you will need as a guide For you to fold your fabric into two the 23.3 that we have I will just approximate this to 24 inches so that 24 inches will be for one panel at the m line so you're going to measure 24 inches and then you fold it in half so what I have here is 12 inches from here this will be the Center the folded edge and then just measure it so I have 12 inches so if I open it now I will They are 24 inches and that is for one panel so you fold your fabric in half now I have 12 inches As you can see once you've done that the next thing you want to do now is to mark out your The skirt length is 44 and a half inches so I'll just bandage it We will start from here so the remaining inches we are not going to cut it Out this is what we're going to be using for the band but if you want to add a separate band to heat You can cut it out but there's no need to cut this out two inches I have two and a half inches Here and that is enough even if you have two inches it is enough for the bag so all you need is this To do is just to fold this and then we are going to fold it on the starting points so that you ca See this is how it will look so we are not going to be cutting it up but this will be our Guide for the waistline that's why I marked this as the starting point so from there now I will be Marking eight inches for the hip line so this is the hip line so once you've marked the hip line Then we are going to mark out the new line so the new line I'm working with is 21 inches but we are not going to be working directly on the new line we just need to take that measureme To serve as a guide for us so once you've marked your new line you go up by two inches and then you mark that two inches you mark that horizontal line but if you mark it directly o Your new line you may not be able to work freely if you shape it at the new line so this is the hem and this is the skirt length so the remaining one inch here is the hemming allowance So now that we've marked out all the horizontal lines the next thing we want to do is input the measurement so we are going to be cutting out the center panel and remember how We arrived at this 8.8 inches so you divide your hip measurement by six and then you'll be done Adding one inch to it that one inch is for joining allowance on both sides so that is how We arrive at 8.8 inches because we folded this in half so we're going to I'm going to divide that into two so I'll have 4.4 so I'm just going to mark 4.4 I will mark it on the I will mark it again on the hip line so that on the new line you know this is our new line e two inches above the normal new line so that is our new line so you're going to be deducting One inch from whatever you mark at the waist and at the hip line so I'll be marking 3.4 inches We are marking this in order to create that kind of shape so once you've done this the next step is to connect these marks together so once you've connected this point together then you'ready Place your ruler or tape measure down to this end line so you place it on it and then you're going to roll out that line so this is what you will have and at this edge You're going to mark one and a half inches and then you're going to curve it to connect it to this Line so just like I'm doing it now but I want you to take note of this if you are not adding an Elastic band for your six-piece skirt you're going to be inputting your waist divided by six plus one inch seam allowance you're going to be inputting it here and at this point you're going To be having a kind of curve so I'm just assuming this is the waist divided by six plus one inc This is what I will have then I will just connect this to the hip line so I will have a kind of you but because I'm adding an elastic band to it so whatever I have at the hip line is what I wa It will mark at the waistline then I'm just going to extend it over to the band so this is what we are going to be cutting out and remember that this is the Cut this out and place it in the center panel So to cut the side panels I'm just going to fold it over like this and this will be the upper part now while this part will be the lower part and then I will jus Place the center panel I will place it on it and what we have for the side panels is 9.8 inches So I'll just place it and then I'll mark one inch so the side panel will be one inch bigger Than the center panel so this is the one inch so I'll just mark it down here here and here then I will place my center panel like this so you can see the one inch difference Then I will just cut it out so you can see this is the side panels and then we are going to be cutting out four panels for the side so for the side I've cut out the four panels as you can see so I'll just put that aside So to cut the Panels for the back just like I told you earlier we're going to have two pieces for the center back panels because of the shape so you're going to be using your front center panel Just like this and then you place it on a folded fabric just like I've done here and then between here between the folded edge of the center front and this folded edge I have six inches So depending on how full you want the tail to be another thing is the length of this Fabric is short as you can see so in this case what can we do now in order to have our tail Is that we're going to be adding to the upper part of the skirt so that when we fold it it's not too short I'm going to show you so just move it up to the upper part and at this lower part here I have Three and a half inches so that means I have three and a half inches up Inches is what I will need to cut out and add to the center back so I hope you understand Next what we want to do you know we have six inches here three and a half inches but if you They are using a fabric that is maybe 50 inches longer so you don't have to join it like this This is African print and the length is very short so the first thing we want to do now is you Know this is our new line so we're just going to extend this line we extend it like this and the From here upward that will be our seam allowance so one and a half inches is enough for that so I'll so at this new line just come in by half an inch in order to give it a shape so you come in by half an inc An inch connect it to the upper part you blend it together so from here now we are going to shape it Down to this edge and then you place your ruler at angle like I've done here then you trace a line Out so once you've traced this line out then you're going to connect this edge now to this edge so you just create a kind of curve shape and I will just stop right here So for the down part if your fabric is longer than this instead of three and a half inches that I use here you can use up to five six or seven inches depending on how Tall as you want it and then for the side as well you can use up to seven inches but I use six inches By 3.5 inches here so this is what we're going to be cutting out and for this side we're jus We are going to trim out what we have here then you're going to notch this line notch it on all of them Panels so and when you are sewing it that will be a guide for you so for the upper part here We have 3.5 inches so I'll just cut out four inches because of the joining allowance I'll just place it like this and then I'll trim it so just like this now that we've cut out all the panels that we did for our six-piece skir The next thing we want to do now is to join it but if you want to make it a full line Six pieces skirt you will need to cut out exactly what you have for each panel so you cut it out and you make sure that the lining is one inch shorter than the main fabric but for this one I'll be cutting the lining out in a shape so to do that I'm just going to take two Side panels and one center panel I will take the front so this is what I will have for the front skirt and then for the back skirt I will take one of these I will connect that to One of the center back and then one of these will be connected to one of the side panels so I will Join it and after joining it we are going to cut out the lining so I've already cut it out Lining and as you can see I cut it out in an A shape so just fold your fabric like this and then instead of spreading it out just fold it like this and then cut your line so tha It's what I did for both the front and the back This is the back skirt and as you can see I've Torn this zipper area with the lining so once you've done it with the lining all you need to Do is just to leave about nine inches for you to remember that we are going to be folding it and then the remaining part for the zipper so then you just sew from there down to the Measure down one inch from the seam allowance and this is what you will have This is the e other side of it so once you've done this we're just going to go ahead and connect the fro and bring the back together to shape it Now remember that the skirt length is 41 inches then I added One inch hem allowance so I will just place it on it so this is 42 then I will mark it up So this is my starting point I will mark my hip line then I will mark my new line My new line is 21 then I went up by two inches so this would be the new line so then we're going to be inputting e measurement and remember that we are adding elasticity to the side so we are not going to be Shaping it but if you don't want to add elastic you will shape it you will need to input your waist measurement divided by four here so assuming your waist measurement is 30 inches you divide We have 7.5 inches here so just place it here so this is our center you place it here and then you mark your 7.5 inches well since we are not shaping it with the waist we are going To be using the hip measurement so the hip I'm working with divided by four is 11.75 So I'll just mark 11.75 at the waistline so I'll mark it here And we mark it again at the hip line so you can see that it's just a straight line here but if you are measuring your waist you have something curved like this so at this point we're going to be taking away one inch from what we have here and then we're going to be marking 10.75 here is 10.75 and I'll just connect it to make sure you are not creating a fake hip curve So once you've connected it to the lower part just place your tape measure the way we did when we started cutting it so you place it slightly like this And you still need to maintain that same seam allowance so that's what we're going to mark out so I'll just trace it out like this So it will just go down like that if you stop from here and then you just sew it and it becomes tiny at this area you're going to be having a funny shaped skir So this is what you have to make sure you maintain the same seam allowance around the side seam That is when your A-shaped skirt will come out nice I'll just sew this now and then when I want To do the other side I will be dividing my measurement by two I've joined both front and back together as you can see it and this is the seam allowance that we have left so this is the Down the parts so this is the tail and then if you are happy with the seam allowance you have You can leave it I have two inches of seam allowance here so I'll just trim it then I will use my Overlocker for the raw edges so now we want to fix the elastic band and the zipper so we are We are going to fix the elastic band before we fix the zipper and this is what we need to do in order for you to know exactly what to cut out for the elastic band so the measurement at we are working on is 46.5 inches and the low waist measureme It is 38 inches and that is what we want here we want 38 inches on this side on the upper side so what we are going to do now that we have the front and the back is we are going to dividing this 38 into two and we are going to have 19 inches so you know we have fro 19 inches for the front and 19 inches for the back making it 38 inches so we are going to be Measuring what we have here you know we use the hip measurement for both the waist and the hip So now I will just measure here and I have 23.5 here at the upper part as you can see So we have 23.5 inches so we are going to be removing this 19 inches our actual waist measurement minus 19 inches they're going to have 4.5 inches whatever We now measure here our elastic band will be 4.5 inches shorter than whatever we mark So I isolated measuring six inches from the side seam so you measure six inches you can use five Inches you can use six inches you can use seven inches so I'll be using six inches Mark that same six inches on the other side as well e back skirt is six inches and remember that our elastic will be on the side so these six I now have 12 inches so I have 12 inches on this side and 12 inches on this side Six inches and the one at the back because we're going to be attaching the elastic to the side I have 12 inches I'll just subtract 4.5 inches from here and then I'm going to have 7.5 inches so I'll be cutting an elastic of 7.5 inches So take your elastic and measure 7.5 inches or whatever you get so you will need to calculate that based on your measureme So this is 7.5 inches and I'll be cutting out two pieces of elastic one for this side and one for this side So you turn your fabric to the right side and then place your elastic band on it and make Make sure whatever you left off is enough for you to be able to fold because we're going to be Folding the upper part and we are not going to sew on the elastic so that it can move around e casing we are making for it I will just pin it down first of all you will sew This so you will sew it like this then to the other side that we mark the six inches you will Do the same thing like this and then you will do the same thing to the other side once you've done at we just want to sew it to create the casing for the elastic and the band and that is the The reason you need to do this first before you fix your seat so we are going to be starting from e zip area at the back then you just fold it and then fold it again so you fold And then you fold again just like this and then we're going to start sewing So you fold in and fold again like this then you continue like that when you get to the elastic Place your fabric about 0.1 inch below the elastic band just like this this is my fabric and my elastic band is around here and then you just sew it so that you can see the elastic band You should be able to move around you can see it so you keep pulling the elastic until you reach this On the other side you then sew through it this is what you will have you can see the elastic on both sides and then this is the back so once you've done this the next thing now is to fix your zip to e zipper area just like this and then we are done with the six-piece skirt and then also you We will just need to hem the hem line using your one inch seam allowance so guys we have come to the End of this tutorial today I hope you find this tutorial helpful Don't forget to give it a thumbs up Up and if you have not yet subscribed to my channel please do so and don't forget to turn on the notification bell so I will see you guys in my next video bye