Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC guide break tests - how strong is that eye?

Believe it or not, I do read your suggestions and sometimes they just happen to hit me when I'm available to test them. Today, Bogdan Kardos from Romania asked me how strong this was because he asked Petzl how strong it was because he couldn't find any information on it and Petzl sent him this letter. The summary of it is, it's super good enough, don't worry about it, we're not going to tell you. Now I'm not trying to throw Petzl under the bus here because they're kind of just doing business as normal. If I own Petzl, that's probably what my response would be, but I don't own Petzl. I own a slack snap machine. Are you curious what this breaks at? Because it's like a single point of failure, technically. You have maybe a sliding X or a little fat knot, LFK, and your ropes, you're laying through here, hanging it from here. If this broke here, you're no longer in a partnership while you climb. So let's find out how strong it is. Put some ropes in here, pull some ropes. Oh, and before we start, let's try a fun game. Write in the comments how strong you think this is, and then go down there when you're done, reply to your comment on whether or not you were right. Let's get started. Hi, I'm Ryan Jinks, and don't worry, we'll get right into it. I just want to explain to the three things we're going to test here. We have the actual Petzl Reverso, which is great because that's what Bob Doan actually wanted to see. And then we have the Black Diamond ATC Guide. And then we have the ATC Alpine Guide, which is for thinner ropes, 6.9 to 9 mil. And then we have the normal ATC Guide, which is for 8.1 to 11 mil ropes. So different rope sizes, it does cross over a little bit. I think this is 7 grams lighter, but yeah, I like the color green. I'm going to my answer right now of on a 25 kilonewtons or stronger than the ropes. What's your guess, Bobby? 15 to 20. Put your guess in the comments below and let's get started here. Oh, I got a really cool thing to show you about Slack Snap we just upgraded to. And this is our new load cell, which is very exciting, which goes to this cable, which goes under here to this LabJack T7 Pro, to this battery thing, sending electricity to that, sending it back and it reading the difference in the electricity and giving us some numbers. So let's, we're just going to have this other dyno in here for redundancy while we get started. Think I can break it? No. Want to bet? Yeah. What are you going to bet? You pull the pulleys next time. That's okay. We got some good ones. That's slipping folks. Oh God, you don't want me belaying you. I got two. Two. That's pretty cool. That took a lot of work. JetSea's awesome. Like belaying with two hands doesn't make sense, right? Because you're usually not having the other hand, but all right. You want, you can try it with two hands and I can try to push the button. All right. Ready? Two hands is only 25% stronger. That's what I tell her. How does a climber get four, even five kilonewtons? And I can hang on just fine. Shock load? Think we need a drop tower? Would be nice to have one in it. It is getting work done. It's painted now. And if you see this, possibly in six weeks is how long it takes me to get things out. This might actually be built. So Instagram is more current. I usually put stuff on there, which confuses the crap out of people, because that's more live and this is not. But if you want to see more liver stuff, go to Instagram at HowlNotToHighline. Okay. So now I'm going to tie the tail off to this, since I clearly can't hang on to it enough to break it. Let's find out if the ATC or the rope wins or how much it reduces the strength. So we have our figure eight over here. We have our Petzl Reverso 4 right here. And the tail is tied off to a dynamometer to find out how much force the tail is going to see. As this goes up, we're going to have them both on. And this is kind of tied off to this back piece here instead of trying to, you know, skew the numbers on these dynos. This is to hopefully keep this guy from just flying across the room. Wow. So this is the maximum force I got right there. I could only hang on to 0.32. Let's see if it breaks in the Reverso or the figure eight. What the heck? I don't really want to change those dynos around at the moment. Oh, sick. Glad I didn't touch anything. 10.64 was our peak force. 3.12 was on the back end of that. And confirmation with our fancy load cell. So the conclusion is it basically breaks the rope kind of low. This, I believe, is... How strong is this rope, Bobby? 20? 15? 18 was the number in my head, but we can test it again. Well, let's find out how strong your rope is. Let's find out. Hey, Larry. Hey, Brian. Okay. Just wanted to tell you that the angle iron for the gussets on the drop tower is coming tomorrow. Yeah, perfect. Thank you. Okay, cool. Thanks. Thanks for the update. Thanks, Larry. You got it. Broken the knot. It's 17.32 kilonewtons on this guy and 17.7 on this guy. We'll work on calibrating them more perfectly later, but this got 10. That is interesting. How much force is on here when we repel two strands going in here? What is this break at? And we also put the dynamometer on here. So we'll make sure we turn this on. How fun is this? I'm going to duck. Imagine that. It's double. Oh, that's hot. And it was almost double. Yeah. So it broke at the carabiner there. Okay. There's a nice flat spot there, but not as bad as it can be. And the other one is gnarly. So we got 6.49 is what it takes. And obviously you're just never going to get these forces, right? You got to be a lot bigger than me repelling to get this kind of forces. Okay. So we know what it does to the rope. Should we pull on the wire? Oh, check this. Okay. Those are definitely getting dinged. It's forcing the carabiner into it. Yeah. All right. Should we break the wire off and then break the back of it off? I don't, the wire. But Bobby, none of this matters. And so many people want to know. I want to know how many people are clipping to the wire as pro and using this as a nut. That's what I want to know. They will now. Oh gosh. Yeah. And then you can see stress radiating from the, um, where it was forced there. We are compromising this before actually finding out the test, the strength of this. Yeah. Oh, well let's pull the wire off. Ooh. We'll find out if the wire is stronger than the back of this. Spoiler alert. This is stronger. Nah, you don't know that. Uh, I was wrong. Oh, no wait. So what happened is it's not pulling evenly because this was pulling from here, but whatever. I'm surprised that the number is that high. That is stronger than some nuts. So you're saying this could be placed as an emergency nut? I am not saying that. Okay. I was just checking. Yeah. I could just misunderstand anything you say because I'm just watching YouTube and can't think for myself. All right. Now what? So the way I understand it, this actually is never clipped into anything. You only use this to release it. Yeah, but nothing matters. Yeah. So we should just do it. Or should we just soft shackle this and pull? And let's break the back. Okay. This is what you all been waiting for. Well, that's interesting. That's not as high as a belay loop. Yeah. So your number was 25 and mine was 15 to 20. But is this a force that matters? I don't know. Do you think it matters? Is there a scenario where you, where this wouldn't be a top rope at a top rope belaying somebody up? So is there a scenario where you'd ever be putting more than four kilonewtons on it? Nope. But we have to make this sound dangerous. So people click like and share. This is a common scenario. All right. So it's not common. I'm just really, really curious how else to break this. Sorry for mid break plugging something, but I'm not going to tell you to smash a like button because that's annoying. Himpy Longstocking makes CBD oil and gummies and stuff like that. And he's a climber. He's been watching the channel. He just started this company and it's on the shop page of slackline.com slash shop. And you can find a bunch of stuff on there with discounts. They give a 5% discount to you guys instead of me taking like a bigger affiliate link where I get some dollars. Whenever you buy something from these companies, I try to split that with you guys. So you guys actually get some discounts on this stuff. So don't buy too much stuff without at least checking out. If I have a discount on there yet, the balance community is one of the affiliate links I have on there. That doesn't give you guys the discount just because the way that's set up, but if you're going to buy slackline gear and from balance community, please use the link. It really, really helps this channel. Of course donations do too, but, uh, he's been super, super cool. And so, um, yeah, go check it out. If you were like CBD stuff. Now let's find out what's his brakes at. Oh, it broke. Wow. Should this go on the museum wall? Because we have to decorate our second part of our studio right here. We should put this on there. This thing's mangled you guys. I hope you guys are happy. This has been my number one belay device and repel device for the last 10 years. This is the only pencil when I had, I mean, don't feel bad for me. I have a lot of gear, but a little sentimental. Okay. I am going to tell you to smash a like button. This is the time that you go down and reply to the comment of your guests and put whether or not you're right or wrong. And then you can add in there, Hey Ryan, you didn't test it the way I wanted to see, which is this way. And then you can go back and go, Oh, I didn't watch far enough in the video. And you can just keep commenting through the whole thing. Let's see how many replies you can reply to yourself. And, uh, I might pin the top one. Anyways, we're going to test it this way, starting with the black diamond ATC guide in the machine. Cause it's already set up. Let's go. Oh, it's not slipping. Oh, Oh. I wonder if I can even get this out now. Uh, 5.5 kilonewtons makes it do that. Did this get bigger? I don't think that's bigger. I don't know. Let's pull it out. Maybe let's try it again. Well, at least you're not going to break that. I thought maybe if we got 10 here, that's close to 12. And this is right in the middle range of that device. Yeah. It was a nine to 11 into 11. This is a 10. Yeah. All right. Well, let's, let's just try it again in case you don't know the value of an ATC guide. If you, you can use it like that, but if you clip the eye, it orientates in such a way that the load side pinches the tail side. And so technically can't slip. So what I'm noticing here is that the tolerance, the space between this rope is actually pretty big. And that's why I think it's spaced out. So we're going to try this one more time and see if that happens again. Oh, it's slipping. So satisfying. Just can't stop going. Do you think it'll happen if we do this one? Because it's more narrow. So the black rope is out of tolerance for this one. It's too wide. I love being told I can't do something. So Ryan, what did I tell you? Don't buy this and then try to repel on those fixed ropes on El Capitan because they are big. So much for testing this. Enough with the green one. Let's just finish doing this black one. Let's see if I can actually hang on more with this one. Oh God. That would be yes. 2.44. You want to see if you can get three with two hands? All right. Two hands. I won't let you slip Bobby. I won't let you slip. Getting heavy. No higher. Wow. I tried really hard the first time. I think that's why. That's more interesting to me than the rear of these things breaking at 12-ish. Yeah. In a slow pull, you can't hold more than two kilonewtons. In a slow pull. So how many tests are going to be different when we get our drop tower and actually shock load things where the peak forces are such a short period of time? Maybe it's the short period of time. This is what makes the difference. So let's break test the rope, then the wire, then the eye, and then we'll move on to the next one. Rope and ATC normal-ish. Look at that. Oh my gosh. It's all wrapped up. That's the inside of a rope in case you've never seen that before. What the hell? Oh, is it stuck inside the... How'd it get stuck inside the gate? Wow. That is scrunched. Look at that. Okay. So ATCs, kind of a chew up a rope eventually. Um, I don't think this is the same shape. Uh, tell us what you think in all of your replies to your comments. I put the soft shackle through this part and we're pulling on both sides of this wire to see if we can get more strength out of it. Nope. That was about the same. Oh, it didn't break the cable. The cable just came out. It looks like it's, what, epoxied in there or something? Let's find out what the eye breaks at. Oh, I need a duck. What the heck? What? That's insane. So the difference is... Besides the strength being more than twice as much? We pulled these two apart, so we'd already put a lot of force on the reverso here. That's not very fair to Petzl. Yeah. Sponsored by Black Diamond. Just kidding. Black Diamond. Yeah. I mean, I'm not opposed to it. I'm just saying. Anyways, let's just jump right into this and get to the good part. So that landed next to me. It used to be attached to this. That's three times stronger than the maximum force you're ever going to get out of a rope attached to these things. Any thoughts, Bobby? Can we go eat? Yes, Bobby, we can go eat. What I thought was like, oh, we'll just test my little reverso here. That'll be quick. It's been like six hours. But I was super curious to find at what force things slipped at, even in the lock mode. Like when it's like this. Guide mode. Sorry. 20 kilonewton rope broke at 10. Eyes broke anywhere between 12 if we pre-compromised them or 29 or 30 if you don't. Another thing, if you really appreciate these videos, is go to the shop page, click the Amazon link before you buy anything. Save it as like you're on your favorites. So every time you go buy something on Amazon, I get like a penny or something, whatever that affiliate link does for me. Or donate because this stuff does cost money, not just for things like this, but also for the dynamometer we had to two hours struggle with before we ever started this video. Thanks for watching. And don't forget to stay past the jingle. I know that Black Diamond was contracting out their rope manufacturer, but I didn't know who and the Black Diamond reps were kind of silent on it. But if you look here, it says Tendon and then the EN number and 2019 polyamide. Wow. So this is inside every rope to identify what it is. Yeah.