How To Replace And Repair Broken Door Jamb Kicked In Or Damaged | DIY Step By Step Tutorial Easy FIX

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67 Video Views·Oct 23, 2022
On this episode, I'm going to be showing you how to replace a broken door jamb,
including how to replace the door strike plate. As you can see, this one's very, very loose.
Also, how to replace that deadbolt plate. This one has a bunch of cracks,
so we might as well replace it to a brand new one. So, stay tuned.
Welcome to Fix This House. If you're new to the channel, please consider pressing the subscribe
and notification bell, so you can always be in tuned on DIYs, how-to videos, and product reviews
that I do within this channel. On this episode, you can see that my door jamb, the left side with
all the strike plates and the plates that are attached with the deadbolt are all wearing out.
It has a bunch of stress marks, a bunch of cracks on one side, including the upper area,
but we're only going to change one side, okay? So, the very first thing that we need to do is
take out all the weatherstripping. If yours doesn't have weatherstripping, then you're
cleared for this step, but we'll take off the weatherstripping. In this case,
I'm just taking off the whole thing, all around this door jamb, and I'm just going to replace it
with a brand new one. So, just carefully take it out, and now we're going to be taking off all the
hardware. Take off the deadbolt hardware, and we're also going to take off the door strike plate
hardware, and make sure that after you take all this hardware off, make sure you save all these
pieces. If not, you can just buy a brand new one, but why buy brand new when you can save these old
ones, and we'll reuse it for later. We're also going to save all these other locks and latches,
and I'm going to be taking off the security sensor. Now, we're going to pry off the old one.
You can see this one is just very easy to take off, because it already has cracks on it, and
I'm just using my screwdriver, which probably isn't the best tool, but we'll use the proper tool,
which is the pry bar. Just using my rubber hammer and my pry bar to knock this one side of my door
jam. I'm knocking out to one side, because I don't want to take out the door casing, as you can see
on the outside. So, I'm going to save myself an extra step, and just knock it off from the side.
Now, depending on what door jam you have, yours might be secured to your framing with nails. So,
now I'm just going to be using my handheld hacksaw. Now, you can use this method, but it might take a
little longer. It might take a little while for you to take off all those nails, depending on how
many you have. So, to make the job a little bit faster, I'm going to be using my cobalt reciprocating
saw with a bit that is designed to cut nails or any type of metal. Now, be very, very careful while
using this, and also all the tools that I use in this video, I'll leave it in the description down
below. As you can see, it cuts like butter. It made my job a little bit faster. Trying to see if I can
pry off that door stop right there, that little piece of wood strips, if I can reuse it, but
unfortunately, I don't think I can, because it's starting to actually tear apart. So, make sure that
you vacuum and clean out all the voids. In this case, I'm cleaning out this half-inch void inside
of my door jamb. The past owner who installed this actually put door shims to fill in those gaps, but
I'm just going to fill it in with solid wood, okay? Half-inch wood that I'm just cutting with my table
saw. Now that I have that cut, I'm just going to place it in. So, this is going to act as my filler,
and I'm just going to screw it in. Make sure that you drill pilot holes first before you actually
nail in the screws, because if you don't, you'll end up probably cracking the wood. What I'm using here
is a two and a half inch screws, general purpose wood screws, and just screwing it from top to
bottom, middle, and I'm also going to be attaching a top piece, because I didn't have any, you know, a
whole piece I can do with this. So, I'm just using my scrap pieces just to save material, okay? So, the
final piece that I'll be doing is that middle part, securing that final filler piece. Again, it doesn't
have to look good, but make sure that it is nice and flush with your jar wall and the outside sidings.
There you have it. It is finally installed. Now, it's time to measure out for the door jamb itself. Now, this
is the old door jamb. As you can see, we tried to save this side, this door stop right here, the
wooden door stop, but it's not going to work. So, I went to Lowe's and I got this two pieces of wood.
This one is a half inch. Now, this one does have a notch cut already into it, just like what you
see there. If you don't have one, it's very easy to do. You're just going to use your circular saw
or any type of saw to cut that notch out, but this one, we're not going to need that notch because
this is just a direct replacement. I'm using my square to measure up my measurement and just using
my miter saw to cut off the excess, okay? Just like that. I don't need that notch. Now, we're
going to test fit it onto that one side of my door jamb. As you can see, it fits perfectly. Just tap
it in with your rubber mallet and then we're going to secure it with two and a half inch
wood screws. Okay, we're going to drill the pilot holes first. Very important to prevent your wood
from cracking and then we're just going to screw in those nails. Then, we're going to secure from
the middle as well. Again, drill your pilot holes. Very important. As you can see that I'm actually
drilling it right onto the middle area where the wooden door stop is going to be placed
on top of it. So, it's going to be hidden. Place the screws on the top, one in the bottom, and two in the
middle. So, it makes a total of four. Now, we're going to measure out for that wooden door stop to match
the top frame. As you can see, this one is a half inch. Now, I've got my measurement, drew out my line
using my square, and now we're just going to cut it off with my miter saw.
And there you see on this one, you can see that there is a weatherstrip channel right there. This
one's already made from the factory and it goes a half inch deep. As you can see, this one that
we bought does not have it. So, we're going to have to make our own. So, not a lot of people show you
this, but I will. So, this one we're going to make a notch right there using our table saw. Okay, so
this is going to be half inch going in and it's going to be about a quarter inch down. So, depending
on what you have, make sure you measure it before you cut it. We're going to set our depth on our
table saw onto half inch deep. Just look what you see there and we're going to adjust it so that it
sits perfectly on our mark. I'll be very, very careful cutting this. First, I'm just using a test
piece to make sure that it is nice and where I want it. Don't use it on your first initial piece.
Use a scrap piece first before doing it to your final one and test fit your weatherstripping. See
if it fits on through that channel. Like what you see here, this one fits perfectly. It just snaps
right in and it works good. So, now that it works really well, we're going to use it now and cut the
initial piece that we're using. Now again, be very, very careful. Take your time and make sure that you
use the proper tools to feed this through because it is, you know, very, very dangerous. If you slip,
you might end up cutting yourself. As you can see, I'm using all these tools to prevent
my hands from getting cut. Okay, so take your time and as you can see, it is cut right there. Now, we
have the channels for the weatherstripping. Make sure it aligns up to the existing doorstop wooden
area right there. It fits perfect. Now, I'm using my brad nailer. This one is the Nail Force by
WORX. So, this is going to be an 18 gauge brad nails that I'll be using, two inches. I love this
thing. It is super nice. It is not loud and it's just super handy. I'm just going to brad nail the
top portion because it does, it is loose and I'm going to brad nail the sidings right here. Now,
this one's okay because the initial one, we screwed it on. So, it's protected because that's the
initial. This is just pretty much just to stop the door from swinging out to the other side
and I placed about six brad nails on this to attach it to the stud. Very, very important,
make sure you put your weatherstrip first before you measure out for your door knob holes because
if you don't put this first, you're going to end up pushing this door further out and you're going
to be marking the holes way too far and you're not going to gauge it right. So, here's a little
trick. Make sure that you use your mechanical pencil and make sure you put out the lead as
far as it can go, just like what you see here. So, you can actually reach between there and
actually trace out that, you know, where the door knob is going to hit that strike and trace it out
also on the where the deadbolt is going to be, you know, hitting on where it's going to go through
that hole that you'll be making later. With that method, you can see that you can actually draw it
out a lot better, more accurate so you don't make a mistake because you only got one try of doing
this and you can't afford to make a mistake on this one. Okay, so now flip over
your door strike and then just trace it out where it's going to be hitting. As you can see here, I'm
just tracing out every single thing that I can trace out of where I'm going to be making those
cuts. Alright, so this one is going to be my 5-8 spade bit. So, it's very easy to use. Just attach
it with your impact drill and this one, you're going to be drilling a shallow one. You don't have
to go all the way through because this one is not the deadbolt one. The deadbolt, you have to go all
the way through. This one is just going to be for your regular door. Now, I'm going to be using my
half-inch chisel. Okay, and then we're just going to chisel out the rest. Now, with your tracements,
the trace, now with all the tracing that you did, make sure you just do a cutout. Take your time.
This is actually a very fun part, doing this part, but I'm just doing it in fast motion for your
friends because it will take a while if I did it on regular speed. Make sure you dry fit your door
strike up against to see if it fits right well, and then we're going to trace out the door strike
frame. Once again, I'm going to make it a little bit darker so I can see where I'm actually going
to be cutting. Now, you can use a chisel to take this out, but in this case, I'm just going to be
using my WORX oscillating tool. Now, this is very handy. Again, if you're not comfortable using this,
just use the regular chisel, but this one, if you're very confident in using, then use an
oscillating tool. You're only going to be going about about 1 16th deep, pretty much the thickness
of your door strike. Just be very, very careful that you don't go too far in. Now, this takes a
lot of careful, steady hand handling, so if you're not comfortable, again, with using this, just use
your chisel. You can see how faster this is and a lot more accurate if you have the steady hand.
Now, just place your door strike on there, and it should sit flush. Now, we're going to be using
again our 3 30 seconds drill bit. Go ahead and right through there. Make sure you drill pilot
holes first. If you don't do this, you're going to end up cracking the wood, and then we're going
hardware, which came with the door strike. Now, the same thing we're going to do with the door
deadbolt right here. This one went all the way deep because it has a longer
arm that goes through there, so just repeat the process as you did with the door strike.
It should be easy, and again, I'm just using my chisel now. I'm not using my
oscillating tool for this because it is, you know, right on the middle.
Okay, so if you found this video helpful, please hit that big thumbs up, subscribe,
and notification bell, friends, so you can always be in tune on DIYs, how-to videos,
and product reviews that I do within this channel. I hope you found this very helpful
and how easy it is you can replace your broken door jamb. I'll see you next time.
