TOYOTA OWNERS! Please NEVER Do THIS to Your Toyota!

Dear Toyota and Lexus owners, this is a 2015 Toyota Camry with 180,000 miles, barely broken in, right? Well this is a one-owner car, very well maintained by the previous owner, regular service, dealership service, everything was done to this car. So you might be wondering, why is this car in my shop and why are you about to watch me pull this engine out of this car and almost replace the whole thing? Well, let's pull this thing in the bay, let's start pulling this engine out, otherwise this will be a very long video as I tell you what's going on. So have a seat, grab some popcorn and let's have a chat about this. The owner of this car changed the oil every 10,000 miles, never really reached a year as recommended by the owner's manual. Between two dealerships, this car was maintained fully. Anything the dealership wanted, even unnecessary maintenance and all that, he did it. He wanted to keep this car to 300,000 miles, 10 years, not have issues with it for his long 80 mile a day commute. He's a doctor, he has a clinic that is far away. This owner questioned the 10,000 mile oil change when he bought this car new. The dealership assured him, showed him the owner's manual. So he was like, okay, this is a recommendation from the manufacturer. The engineer said this could happen and they must be right, they designed the car, right? Well, here is the newsflash for everybody. The recommendation or the entire maintenance guide for every car, this is not just Toyota, this is not some secret. That is the minimum required maintenance to maintain your warranty, the manufacturer's warranty. This is a minimum required maintenance. So the warranty for Toyota is 60,000 miles in five years in the United States for this model. For Powertrain, we are at 180,000 miles in seven years on this car and here we are. Here's how this started with the 10,000 mile oil changes. At around 120,000, 130,000 miles, the car started burning one quart of oil every 1,000 miles. Brought it to the dealership, they did a consumption test, which is something not really applicable unless you're in warranty, but they did it nonetheless. They told him it's within specifications, which is okay. We can live with that. 1,000 miles, one quart of oil. It's the end of the world, but it is not the end of the world. But then right around 150, that escalated to two and three quarts and now he's running low and he's constantly having to carry oil with him. It's just becoming a giant hassle. Takes it again to the dealership. They tell him we're going to run a cleaner service and we're going to do this and that and nothing really worked and the owner just gave up and let's just keep going in this situation. And some people will say, well, the manufacturer could have done this for emissions because all this extra oil changes will cause all these extra emissions that all this extra oil is going to pollute the environment and all that. That could work if we're wearing white lab coats, but average Joe like me and you, let's do the simple math and let's talk about this from a practical standpoint. Oil waste does not go in the drain, does not go into some giant wasteland. Car burning oil will eventually kill the catalytic converter and it will start polluting at a rate much higher than that oil that is getting dumped in this magical wasteland, which by the way, I own an automotive shop. The one you see in the video right now and oil does not go into used oil. Engine oil does not go in a magical wasteland. It actually gets recycled at a very high cost, which many shops actually charge you for that disposal or recycling of that oil because a company comes in, we store it in the tank that you see right here. That's where the oil gets stored and then it gets collected by a company through a very complicated process. The EPA is involved. It is a not something that gets just dumped down the drain. So let's take that conversation out of this. The bottom line is, this is my opinion. There is a secondary reason they went with this 10,000 mile madness. Marketing. This car will require less maintenance over its life cycle and this is how this whole thing started. Here's the engine coming out. Let's look at it standing right there a few shots in case you haven't seen an engine out of a car. Let's talk about it a little bit and we'll continue our conversation. So here it is folks. This is the 2AR-FE outside of this car and it's going to sound ironic that I am going to say this statement standing next to an engine that's getting torn apart for repair. This is one of the best engines Toyota makes if you take care of it and the owner of this car took care of it but unfortunately they were not fully informed. I've been saying this since my channel started. Change your oil every 5,000 miles six months. Problem is this engine have had its entire life between two dealerships. Every 10,000 miles oil change at a dealership. Never over a year. Always under a year. This owner drove a lot. He commutes a long commute but folks you don't know what kind of oil the dealership is using. Yeah full synthetic 020 good but what kind of oil is it? They usually use the cheapest oils. People assume Toyota dealerships use Toyota oil. That never happens folks. They just get the cheapest one they can lay their hands on. Brown and slippery is the word they use. So if you change your oil every 5,000 miles six months even if you use low quality oil we're not going to get to this point. Many people out there viewers you're watching this right now and your blood is boiling. Please comment down below how your 300,000 mile 2AR-FE has been doing at 5,000 mile oil change intervals. Because there's a lot of these out there that are like that. So folks what we did with this engine before the owner actually authorized all this job. We boroscoped the cylinder. I saw heavy wear on the cylinder wall so that's done. You can't really do much to it. It's not cost effective to do that. So we're going to put a short block and I'll show you that as we go. But right now I'm going to put you on a time lapse. We're going to take this entire engine apart. I'm going to show you the cylinder wall once we get to that point. I'll show you the seized piston rings and this is really what caused this whole thing to happen. So please as we go through this change your oil every 5,000 miles six months regardless of what anyone says. Because this is actually what happens when you don't and then we get to some slightly higher. I mean this this has this is called barely broken in Toyota land. You could easily drive this car three four hundred thousand miles. But here we are 180,000 engines out of the car and we're tearing into it. So let's put you on the time lapse. Let's get this thing torn apart. So while we tear the engine apart let's talk about another important thing. What do you do if this actually happens to you? If you are the owner of this car and now you are finding out that it's too late damage is already done. Well here is the conversation I had with this customer. First never decide in the moment. When I gave this customer this bill I told him here's your car go home take care of your family forget about this for a day or two then think about it rationally. And here are some tips that you can actually use to determine is this repair worth it or is it not worth it. The first thing you want to do is get an accurate quote. How much money is this going to cost? And then the second thing you want to do. How much is your car worth as it sits today? Make sure you disclose everything. You don't want to sell this car to somebody that sight unseen buys it and you didn't disclose that. How much is this car worth? You're going to take these two amounts. How much is it going to cost to repair this? Plus what else does this car need? Is this car in good condition? Is it rusty? Does it need a lot more work? And then do the math and plus the appraisal of the car. That amount you come up with divided by 60 months. What is it cost to buy this car similar car like in 2022 Camry for example. Go get a quote how much is the monthly payment on a Camry with your down payment which is the cost of your car. Now the cost of the car and the cost of this repair divided by 60 months that number that comes up should be half of your payment. Half of your new car payment because after you repair this car the engine will be good but the rest of the car is still old. You're still going to have some ongoing repairs and maintenance so you got to keep that in mind. But if it's more than half this might not be worth it because now you are close to really your new car payment and I understand people don't like payments. They'd rather just fix their old beater. This is not a beater but some people will do that. But at some point it becomes cost ineffective because you have to factor in your time. People never factor in their time in money calculations. This is very important. So this is how your thought process needs to be whether this is worth repairing or not. But the biggest thing is you gotta do your homework. You can't just decide this in the moment. I don't care how much pressure the shop the dealership whoever is putting on you. You say no you walk away and then you think about it with calm and after that initial freak out happens. Having said that let's go talk a little bit more about the engine tear down and then we'll continue our conversation. So there we have it folks. This is all torn apart as I wrote in the video. Do not do what I did. We did that because this is for lack of a better word a very big boat anchor. But let me show you what happened to the cylinder walls. If we bring the really close it's going to be really hard to see inside the cylinder. But there is a very big wear mark right there. You can actually feel it with my fingernails. That's one part. Two cylinders are okay. Cylinder number four is probably the worst. Impossible to see and try later to get you better shots. But this is like literally you pass your finger over it. It feels like a divot that's dug into the cylinder wall. Folks this is not going to hold. This is not going to seal. This is not going to do anything. This is just wide open. This is going to cause actually vibrations because the compression is uneven. And this is this is why we're replacing the shore plug. Some people will now right now pause the video go to the comments. Why don't I send this to a machine shop. They can resleeve it and all that good stuff. Well number one good machine shops are really hard to come by these days. Second thing is I warranty my work. And by the time you send this to the machine shop you get new pistons and new rings and possibly new rod bearings and you're going to send the crank to get checked and all this. You are really close to the cost of a brand new short block. For those who are not familiar short block is an entire block with everything inside of it. Pistons, new crank, new rods, new rod bearings, everything pre-assembled ready to go. And here it is. But before we get to it I want to show you why we're doing all this and why the cylinder wall got damaged and all this. And that is because of this. This oil control ring is just you can't compress it. I'm trying to push on it. It does not compress. Look how gummed up it is. I want you to see. You see this bottom ring. See how gummed up it is. This is why this whole mess started because this got seized and it doesn't want to compress anymore. And there we go. Let's look at another piston. Same deal here. I can compress this one. I can compress this one. I can't compress that one. It's just flat seized. And that's what happens with these folks. This is all. So the next time you send your oil to the lab, unless they magically come in and look at this, take this engine apart to this point and see what's sitting in this tiny little groove, don't go with 10,000 mile oil change folks. I have said this multiple times and now I am showing you. This is actually the third time we talk about this on the channel with a full dedicated video, but this is what happens. This is deep inside the engine. No oil analysis is going to take this and show you. And the cool thing is, and this is, I'll show you one of the rod bearings. This rod bearing is perfectly fine. There is absolutely nothing wrong with it. This tells me this owner never ran this car low on oil. I mean, look at this thing. Looks brand new. And this is also a testimony to Toyota. This owner always checked the oil, topped it off until he got tired of adding three course every thousand miles. And now we're fixing it. After a long conversation with them about should they fix this or should they just get rid of the car and get another car? They thought about it long and hard and this was their decision. I respect it. Times are hard buying cars right now. He wanted to buy a Lexus, but that did not happen. Let's open the new engine. I'm going to take my gloves here. We don't want to contaminate it with the old stuff. This is a brand new short block from Toyota. For those who are not familiar, Toyota does not sell a long block new. A long block is the short block with a cylinder head on top of it. They do not sell that. It's just not available. Now, some people will say, why don't you just get a used engine? Well, used engine will have the same problem. Was this engine taken care of? Then another thing is, why don't you just go get an aftermarket remanufactured? Folks, I have had such horrible experiences with aftermarket remanufactured engines that you take the engine, look at it. All the bolts are wrong. Everything is just put together with zip ties and glue. It's just not a good idea. Do this right. There's nothing wrong with that cylinder head. We're going to clean the valve, clean it up a little bit, and that's good. Without further ado, Christmas is here for those who have never seen a brand new engine in a box-ish. It's a short block. Here it is, folks. This is a brand new short block from the factory. You notice it has the crank. It has the pistons already pre-assembled, pre-torqued. You do nothing with this. You install it as it is. The most important thing, which I did not show you, I'll show you in the other engine. There are jets here that cool the back of the piston. These are very important. When these pistons heat up, they're going to cook the oil that's on them overheat. These jets cool the back of the piston. But equally, these jets always get clogged. At least one of them is clogged because of oil varnish and all the stuff that's floating in the oil. So they are also there. There's new jets here. This is such a beautiful sight. Nothing is more interesting to me than looking at this. There are a few things that are interesting and something, if you're doing Toyota engine work, I want to show you a few things. If you come really close here, look at these numberings. Not these. This is just one, two, three, four, five. But these numberings and these letters. These are actually the numbers for the bearings. Some of these numberings will be for the main bearings. There's one, two, three. I think there's a four as well. And then the AB is the piston. Specifically, the piston wrist pin thickness. There's A, there's B, there's C. If you go by Toyota bearings or pistons or rod, even the pistons will be numbered. And I'll show you when we take this out and show you the numbering on them. ABC is three different types of pistons. They're exactly the same, but where the wrist pin goes through them is different. So that's the ABC. And then the bearings is the thickness of the bearing and how much, depends how much clearance you have, you're going to change accordingly. This is pre-assembled from the factory. It's ready to go. So what we're going to do right now, take that old block. We actually have one more thing to do on this block. If we come over here in the back of the block, you got an oil separator. Folks, I always tell you these engines have an oil separator. You saw some when I pulled the intake, there was a lot of oil in the intake because this engine is burning oil. I mean, it is burning at such a rapid rate. You're going to have oil and intake, but normally you won't. And the PCB valve is right here. Very easy to replace when the engine is all apart, isn't it? That's the beauty of tearing engines apart. I call this a glorified oil change sometimes as a joke, because you literally drain every last drop. And for those, one last thing before we get to work. When I tell you drain the coolant out of the radiator, because you'll never get every last drop out of the engine of coolant. This is literally the only way you're going to get every last drop of coolant out of this engine. There's going to be still a couple drops left in the cylinder head, mainly because we're replacing this. But this engine does not have a drain block drain. It's just the way they designed it. There's no block drain really anywhere. So that's why you saw a little bit of a mess in the oil. You could never get all of it out. I drained the oil out of this engine. Did you see when I flipped it, how much oil came out of it? Look at the floor here. Look at this mess. This is how much oil is left behind when you do an oil change. No matter what you do, if you take the oil pan down and literally dry it completely, there's this much oil left inside this engine. And this is what the lab will not get to. And this is what's going to end up destroying this if you don't change it frequently. It's going to build up and build up and build up and then start contaminating everything. Having said that, let's get to work. We're going to take this block. We're first going to take this oil separator off, get the new block on here, and we'll start assembling. So let's talk about the cost of this particular job on this 2015 Toyota Camry. So the labor is about 20 hours of labor to do this job that you're seeing right now. You're going to see it to completion. The short block is around $2,900. The gasket kit, which comes with all the gaskets, these are all original parts, is around $400. The sealer that we use to seal the engine is around $40. There's two oil filters involved in this, the initial one for the initial start and then the one for the second oil change that I do immediately after. We're talking around $11 here. There's 10 quarts of oil, five for each oil change. We're going to do two oil changes here. That's around $78 for Toyota original oil. Cleaner that you see me use all over the around $25. PCB valves around $11. Spark plugs are $45. Now these prices are relevant to this time. If you're watching this video in the future, these prices might have gone up, might have gone down, hopefully gone down. Now let's do some rudimentary math for average Joe like me and you that is not in a lab coat. This job is right around $6,000. If we take it, let's make an even number. $6,000. This car have had 18 oil changes since it was new, give or take. So if we divide that $6,000 by 18 oil changes, you come up with a number right around $333. So really the oil changes for this car have cost the owner $333 plus the actual cost paid for the oil change. Let's say magical number right around $70. Premium oil, right? For 10,000 miles. So this oil change cost $400 to really come up with this cost of this repair. But if this owner would have instead done an additional oil change in between every 5,000 miles, never got really to the six month mark, they would have added $1,260 to their seven year, 180,000 mile ownership. This is a lot. This is a big difference from $1,260 to $6,000. Do you see how this is not exactly cost effective here? This just makes absolute no sense. And I want you to see that and understand it. This just doesn't make sense. I don't get it. I don't get it at all. So we are at a stopping point. It is lunchtime here. So let me show you the block, the new block. So I want you to look inside. You see that letter B on the piston right there? See that letter B? It's a little bit upside down, but that is the number of the piston that we talked about. Now this is actually ready for the cylinder head to go back on. But before we do that, let's cover it up just to prevent any debris or dirt from getting in here. And I'll show you what we have to do with this cylinder head before we actually go ahead and install it here. So here's the cylinder head. Now some people will take this, send it to a machine shop, do the whole nine yards, and do all this mess, if I would call it. I don't have really a good machine shop around me that I know. There's probably one, but I don't know of them. We're going to actually do this ourselves. This is not an engine that overheated. This is not an engine that is out of a Chevy. This is a Toyota cylinder head. There's really not much that is serviceable on these. If it's warped, 99% of the time you end up throwing it out if you machine it. This is a VVTi engine. You cannot machine these very much beyond the limit, which the limit is like very small. One thing we're going to do, maybe two, to this cylinder head. If you look at the valves, they have a little bit of carbon buildup. We're going to take these valves out, clean them up, put them back. See this valve is good. This valve is pretty clean. Exhaust valves look pretty clean, but we're still going to give them a good clean. Most of the intakes, they have carbon buildup, except these two. Ironically, this is cylinder number one, cylinder number four. You'd expect these to be the worst, but that's how engines work. We'll give it a general cleanup, but most importantly than anything, we're going to replace the valve guide seals. Seals that sit right here underneath the spring. This is a common cause for blue smoke when you first cold start the car. This is very common for that to happen because of these seals. Whenever you have high vacuum, they will leak oil into the cylinder and you'll have a puff of smoke. They will leak actually a lot of oil when they dry up. They come with the kit. We're going to replace them. We include it in the job. We'll give this thing a good clean, put it back. There's actually not much going on here. It's just a bunch of valves and the valve train. Most people will go, why don't you replace that? This build racks up pretty quick. Before you know it, you might as well just go buy a new car. You have to go by experience. I've never seen a valve go bad on a 2AR, never really seen a chain unless you have a bad VBTI. This is way ahead of that time where we had VBTI problems. This is a 15. Things with Toyotas are different. You don't just go replacing everything and send everything to the machine shop. Not exactly. Believe it or not, I've done this countless times and I've never seen these engines come back. They just keep going and going, racking up miles. Now the owners that have learned about the oil change, they don't have oil burning issues in the future. Let's take you on a tour of the mess. This is basically everything we had to remove to do this job. You have your injectors there, intake manifold, valve cover, throttle body, catalytic converter, exhaust manifold, the coolant housing. We're not replacing the water pump on this one, so I just removed it as one unit. You got the front timing cover. You got all the components that we removed to do this job. This job looks very complicated and maybe I say this because I've done a lot of these, but this really is not. This engine is not bad. You want to hear a Toyota engine that is bad to work on? Let's talk about the A25A, which I've been inside four of them. They're a lot more complicated than this. This makes this kind of look like a child's play or the training wheels. Although the real training wheels on Toyota engines is the 2AZ-FE, the 2.4 liter engine. So much easier to work on. Very little components, very little has to come off the car to really take it out of the car. Very simple engines. Folks, let's say it one more time before I go to lunch in real life and you guys just skip to the next part, which is the time lapse. 5,000 mile oil changes, please. This breaks my heart every time I do one of these and I've done one too many. Let's put it this way. We're in time lapse, you guys, through the cylinder head prep. We'll put it on here. We'll probably time lapse you through the whole thing when the engine is all assembled here, ready to go back to the car and we'll talk about a few things. So as a shop owner, and I've been only open for a few months here, I used to work at a dealership and now I open my own shop. Some people have accused me when in the past I have said, folks, please do the 5,000 mile oil changes instead of the 10. People have accused me of wanting more business, being a dealership puppet. They have called me all kinds of names. That's okay. We can agree to disagree on things, but hear me out here. So as a shop owner, I will be flat and honest with you. The labor cost of an oil change for you, if you come to my shop, for example, is $22. That's two-tenths of labor. Plus the parts profit is on the oil and the filter and all that, collectively is right around $2 for an average five, six quart oil change. So that's a grand total of $24 that my shop actually makes when you bring your car for an oil change. Now, if we take that number and at 36 oil changes that this car would have had since it was new, that would be a grand total of $864. Now at the additional oil changes that I'm recommending at 5,000 mile intervals, instead of having 18 oil changes, you would have 36. So 18 additional oil changes. That would be $432 over seven years of ownership for the owner to come to my shop as additional business. Let me say one thing. That is not even my electric bill for the shop for a month. So when I do a $6,000 job, the shop makes much more profit than an oil change at $24. But yet I am making this video because I want you to be in the clear. I don't want to do these engines. I don't want to have to explain to the owners and see their sad face and see their heart drop when I give them the $6,000 estimate because they were not informed. They thought they were doing the right thing. And I see this over and over and over. The same time that I am doing this engine, I was interrupted two times to go look at another car, talk to customers on different models for the same thing, the same oil consumption problem for the same reasons. 10,000 mile oil change. Uninformed 10,000 mile oil change. But the engineers said in the books, folks, the engineers did not write that maintenance schedule that you see in all the cars. The engineers, in my opinion, were asked, would this car last past the warranty at this maintenance interval? Yes. Will the car burn oil at 60,000 miles or whatever the warranty is? No, probably not yet. Okay, then we're good. But it's the same story with that recommendations with a sealed transmission fluid, the lifetime transmission fluid. Oh yes, you will have zero issues. Any, even the worst transmission will last probably 100,000 miles in 2022 and not have issues in the original fluid past the 100,000. That's when things go south. And the same story with the that now we have coolants lasting 15 years, 150,000 miles. Yet we have leaky water pumps, we have leaky radiators, all this stuff because that coolant is there too long. And the same story with Toyota and Lexus hybrids with the high voltage fan filter, the service, the maintenance on that. They don't list it as a maintenance item, which it should be because this could kill your battery. But again, it's never listed as a maintenance item. And then there is the better oil conversation that we're going to have here, because this one is equally important. Now, companies like AMSOIL, I'm going to use them because everybody looks at AMSOIL like the pinnacle of oil, they make excellent oil. But the problem is their excellent oil cost twice as much as really very good oil that will make your car blast a very long time. I've had dealings with AMSOIL. They are their customer, their retail side, the wholesale side, very rude. Their dealers are very pushy and I don't really like to deal with them because of that simply, but they make good products. People like their products because they're good. But when you're paying double for an oil change to go double the distance, it absolutely makes no sense. And in the end, you're going to arrive at this point because all the promises of companies of we warranty this engine for this much, we guarantee up to 25,000, 15,000, all that, when you have a problem with that engine, two things will, one of two things will happen. They will either disappear faster than the wind, or they will come up with 101 excuses of how you didn't do something right. And then all that guarantees and all those promises fly out the wind. So folks, this is where I need you to be aware. You do not need to be a car person. Look, majority of folks, I work with people who drive their cars, I service their cars. I've been doing this for a long time. 90% of people who drive cars, it is just a tool for them to get from A to B. They don't care about the details and how it works and what's going on and all that. The majority of my viewers are going to be the car guy that cares, but 90% are not. So let's keep it simple. You need to be involved, actively involved in the maintenance of your car for one day every six months. That's all it takes, not the whole day, maybe one hour. Check when was the last oil change? You always need to be aware when was the last oil change and how long ago was it? That's why there's maintenance stickers and reminders. The cars, most cars have maintenance binders. In Toyota or Lexus land, every 5,000 miles that maintenance light comes on. And the best part is, this is the number one asked question in the dealership. Why does the light come on at 5,000 miles when the oil change is 10,000? That is to me, in my opinion, there's a hidden message from the creators of this car. Please do something at 5,000 miles. Otherwise, they could have easily changed it to 10,000. The maintenance light would come on. And then you go to the dealership and the beautiful bedtime stories of, oh, but that's the maintenance is required at 5,000, but it doesn't include an oil change. Like you got to rotate the tires and check this and check that. Dealerships don't do that. They don't check nothing. You bring the car 5,000 miles, they rotate the tires and push it out the door as fast as they can. That's just the God honest truth, folks. So that maintenance light, 5,000 miles is a very simple interval, six months. You're going to service your car twice a year, $70 each oil change, all the other additional stuff that comes when it's due, but $70 every six months, $140. If that is a lot to keep your engine alive, I implore you to reconsider. There is no question. Some people want to go eight months, but wait, what if I drive 3,000 miles a year? What am I going to do? Do it every six months. No gray areas, black and white, simple, clear, six months, change the oil. If you did not reach 5,000, you reach 5,000 miles, change the oil. It's very simple. Don't use the cheapest oil, use decent oil, but don't go overkill on the price of the oil because then it becomes ineffective, cost ineffective. If you're buying premium oil, most expensive oil there is, and changing it every 5,000 miles, it might be overkill. But if you just buy decent oil, a good known brand that is reputable, change it every 5,000, every six months, you're not going to have issues with your car. And if you're worried about the environment, folks, there is no shop in the That is the worst nightmare for any owner of any automotive shop is when the EPA comes down, doesn't audit, and they don't have all their paperwork in order for the oil recycling and the antifreeze recycling for the coolant. That is nobody dumps oil down the drain. I mean, I went through the process of creating this shop. The shop that you see was not an automotive shop. This was just a warehouse. It was just a giant building. I turned it into automotive shop, and the costs involved and the things we had to modify in the building, you're welcome to watch the series in the past if you want to see exactly what happened, but it was monumental. And all that was to save the environment, was to protect the environment, was to keep this shop from harming the environment in a way that is irreversible. So you look at automotive shops, they're all greasy and grimy. That is not the case. There's always regulations, at least in the United States. There is very high standards of conduct that we all follow, and all that is to protect the environment. So bottom line is change your oil every 5,000 miles. It literally breaks my heart. Every time I have to give these news to an owner because they did the 10,000 mile oil change. Okay, so the moment of truth. We're going to prime this engine and let's see what happens. I'm going to give it a minute for the radio to come on. You're going to see this one live. The radio is halfway. Just got to wait for it to finish. We're going to prime this engine first. You see the connectors for the coils are off, and the connectors for the injectors are off. We're going to prime it, make sure it gets oil everywhere. I'm looking at the oil light, and now here, one, two, three, let's do this. Oil light's still on. Oil light is off, ladies and gentlemen. Now the engine has oil pressure. I usually never film these primes or the first start. So in case you haven't seen an engine that has been worked on start, here's what you can expect. You're going to hear a lot of racket. That's the first thing. Second thing is you're going to see a lot of smoke. That's also normal, and the racket might not go away because you got hydraulic lifters on this engine, or it might be completely quiet, but there's only one way to find out. Got everything plugged in? Let's find out. Well, didn't make any racket. It's pretty quiet. That whine you heard, that is something notorious with Toyotas. They will make that whine from the alternator for a few seconds, sometimes a few minutes. See this one? It's clattering away. You see the smoke already? That clatter that you hear is the lifters. We're going to have to wait for them to pump up. It's going to get a lot louder before it gets quieter, but runs good. I don't see smoke. It's pretty smooth. I don't see any leaks. I don't see any problems. Check engine light is probably on because we unplugged. Actually, it is on because we had the injectors unplugged and the coils unplugged. I'm liking everything. We're going to have to let this guy run, warm up fully, and go from there. There you have it, folks. Car is running. We still need to put a few of covers back and everything, but it's running. This is like a newborn baby. This is a new engine. Even though you reused a lot of the stuff around it, it is still a new engine. The bearings need to wear in. The pistons need to wear in. The rings need to wear. Everything needs to break in. This goes back. When you do something like that, we go back to the beginning like when the car is new. Break in period. We're going to ask this customer to bring this car back after 1,000 miles for the first oil change. We're going to double oil change because any debris that got left behind, I don't want it staying there for 1,000 miles. We're going to do another oil change. There's a cost associated with it, but it is what it is because you do not want to cheap out on an oil change on this brand new engine. This bill is in excess of $6,000 here. The car is running. Running pretty smooth. Actually, we've had it running for a while now. Purrs like a kitten. Very quiet. I hope you can hear it over the microphone. The lifters has quieted down. After I put everything back together, we give it a very hefty cleaning and the shop as well. I'm going to take it for a drive, take it for multiple drives. Something we're waiting for is spark plugs. Believe it or not, we couldn't get them in time, so I'm going to go back, change the spark plugs so we have new plugs. The shop needs a massive cleaning. Folks, jobs like this, they make a huge mess. Once this car is done, we get it out. It is 7 o'clock right now. We've been working on this since 9 a.m. Yesterday, we actually pulled, just to give you an idea of timing because you're looking at a time lapse. We started on this car probably 4 o'clock. We finished at 6. That's when you saw that we got the engine out. Then we've been working on this from 9 in the morning. It is now 7 o'clock at night. It's running probably another hour. We'll run while we put all the covers back and everything, and then we're done. Here's our parts pile that now has boiled down to the cowl, some covers, and really that's all that is. No bolts left behind on jobs like this, so no bolts were left behind. There's only one bolt that is left behind only because he didn't behave well. This bolt broke. This is a bellhousing bolt. Very common to break. This is one all the way in the back. We actually replaced it, so this is the only bolt left behind at this point. Having said that, and before we wrap up the video, here is the old block which is now going to the scrap. There's nothing you can do with this freely unless somebody wants it. It's theirs, but as far as I'm concerned, it is a very large bolt anchor. Next, for my viewers who are interested in what projects we got going on in the shop, the LS460 is actually that LS460, the one with the coolant leak. It's still here. It's been now we are in the second week. We're waiting for parts. An injector broke. Let me show you. As I was pulling the connectors off, this injector decided to break. Apparently, this is very common. I mean, I told you this is a high heat area, so I'm waiting on the seals. Seals went on a little back order, but we finally got them today, and I'm going to have to reassemble it. If you've ever done direct injector seals, they are a nightmare and takes a very patient man. I like to consider myself a patient man, but even I run out of patience with these. Whoever does direct injector seals, you have a lot of patience. Now, we have this other LS460 in the shop, and this one is getting the entire suspension redone. Now, you notice that it's leaning. If you come behind it and look at it, it is leaning because this rear air shock is destroyed. This has been sitting here all day, and you see this side is all the way to the ground. We are actually retrofitting this. You'll see this in a video coming up here. We're taking off the air suspension, putting out regular stuff, coil springs, so that's the next project. The Alabama LS430, for lack of a better word, I don't know how to describe it to you. The one we did the video on the timing belt. The power steering pump decided to call it quits on the final test drive of that car. Actually, we just got the power steering pump today. We should be working on that. We have these two LSs, three LSs that we have to work for, and I'm noticing a theme here. We're becoming slowly an LS shop. No problem. I love these cars. They have their quirks, but be careful buying one because the bill for this one is very large because the entire suspension is gone, and you'll see it in the upcoming video. Folks, the moral of the story of this whole video. Sorry, we got sidetracked a little bit. Change your engine oil every 5,000 miles or six months. Otherwise, this is where we're going to arrive to. One day, we're going to arrive at this point. Now, some folks will say in the comments, that has never happened to me. I've been doing it. I want you to remember what kind of oil you're using. If you're using very high premium oil and you're really on top of it, not letting it go over a year, you're always driving highway, you could get by, but if you're just taking your car to the dealership, guess what? Dealerships will use the cheapest oil they can get their hands on. They will not use the Toyota 5W, 0W30 that you saw, 0W20 that you saw us put in this car. They will not. The end of that story. I worked at a dealership. I see how it is. It's the cheapest goes. It's just how it is. Be careful, folks. With that, I hope this video is helpful and informative. I hope you learned something new. I hope you're liking content that is coming out of this shop and a lot more coming up. If you like this video, consider giving it a thumbs up. If you're not a subscriber, consider subscribing to the channel. Check out some of my other videos. Until the next video, folks, may the Lord bless you and keep you, and you have yourself a wonderful day.