2JZ Engine video cost me $10,000 for my MK4 Supra | VLOG 21

So I'm back in Australia after a two-month break. I feel very refreshed. I'm happy that I got away for a little bit, got away from the workshop and everything that was going on. Had time to reset, rethink everything. The Supra's feeling refreshed with some new parts to go on it as well. So in today's video, we're gonna be doing everything 2JZ related. I'm gonna be showing you the process of assembling the modem, the parts I've used, and also explaining why I've decided to use some of the components as opposed to other alternatives. And then in the next video, which should hopefully come out next week, is us installing the engine into the Mk4 Supra. Now, historically, going back to other people that have owned it and stuff, this car has changed hands many, many times before it got to the master. It's lord and savior, Damo. Yeah, I think this car hasn't had an engine in it in like well over five years. So let's sort that out. Let's get the car running. Hopefully not wrap it around a tree, make some content, probably get arrested, and should be a fun time. I still hate talking to the camera. So if this video, I'm filming it today, which is I think like second of October. If you don't see this video live within seven days, I've completely annihilated this camera and I've quit YouTube. Let's do it. Let's get into it. All right, so the base or the foundation I decided to build upon was a 2JZ GE non-VVTi. I've spoken about the differences between the turbo motor and the non-turbo motor. I've also spoken about reasons why I've decided to use the bottom end. Next up, aluminum components and bolts. So all the aluminum components on the engine are 30 years old. They've just been vapor blasted. It's a very similar process to sandblasting or you've got your cabinet, you're shooting media at a very fast rate. Instead of removing paint, you're polishing or you're cleaning up this factory aluminum using glass beads mixed with water at a high pressure. So that was all done, that was all outsourced. And then the bolts, they were acid dipped to remove all the grease, rust, whatever might've been on it. Again, they're the factory bolts that came off this car and they've been zinc coated and tinted this goldy color. Now, unintentionally, I got it done this goldy color and it turns out it really compliments this green car. So that was a win-win in my books. Moving on, the oil pump that was used is a 2JZ GT component that came in that other package deal of a 2JZ that I'm gonna get to in a moment. I wanted to make sure that this was up to spec and at the right timing, Jay from Real Street Performance decides to launch a video on how to disassemble and prepare a 2JZ oil pump before putting it onto an engine. So I'm not gonna ramble. In the description below, I'm gonna add that video, I'll link to that. I'm gonna add every single part that you see in the video. I'm gonna say exactly where I purchased it from. So everything is in the description below. Please don't DM me. And I'm gonna put some assembly oil in the pump. And this is gonna just lubricate those pump gears during startup. This year, we've had to lose everything in this video that has been completed. It is very enjoyable. I've got my Elvis Presley in the background. I'm chilling. I've documented this build to the best of my abilities. I've got hundreds of, whoa. I've got hundreds of pictures saved to Google Photos of bags, bags as in bolts in the bags with writing on it of components that have come off the car. Although I did all that in preparation for the reassembly, it was still an absolute nightmare to work through all the bolts of an engine that I'm very unfamiliar with. But we got there in the end. So key topic from this or key note is please mark everything. Take photos of everything because when it comes to reassembly, you're gonna be hating life on how to do it. And you're probably gonna want a copy of my Google Photos of the censored version. All right, so the turbo drain, the sump is made out of aluminum and they use the same sump between the turbo and the non-turbo version. In the non-turbo sump, there is a provision where you see you need a drill and tap. So you're gonna have to drill three holes. The first hole, pretty much start from the smallest drill bit and work your way up. That is where the oil from the turbocharger drains back into the sump. Once you get the biggest hole you possibly can, it's probably about a 30 mil all up. You're gonna have to get, you know, a 30 mil drill bit on a standard drill. Then get a Dremel with an aluminum burr and work your way around to make that opening as big as it needs to be. Then you got two holes to drill. These holes, you don't wanna drill all the way into the sump. Instead, you wanna have them go as deep as they need to be for an M8 by 1.25 stud to go into. Now the reason I decided to use a stud over a bolt is you've got your fitting, your AN fitting that you wanna bolt to the sump. You're probably gonna over tighten it. You're gonna strip the threads. Instead, when you use a sump, it almost acts as a little bit of a dowel or a locator. And also you can put a lot more force on a stud than you can on a bolt when it's in an aluminum part and you don't risk stripping the part or your fitting going loose. So that's an easy fix. Easy. Any idiot can do that. Fuckin' really, cut? Hello, Damien speaking. Next up, how to get the oil feed to the turbo being a naturally aspirated block. What you can do is you have an oil pressure sensor in the block. You can use a stainless steel T and then one side of the T would go straight to the oil pressure sensor, the factory one. The other side of the T would be an AN fork being the turbo feed on the other side of the engine. Now I'm using a VVTi cylinder head. The VVTi cylinder has a solenoid that relies off oil. So where the factory sensor is, I've decided to run a line straight to the solenoid and then I've grabbed the oil filter housing bolt. I've drilled and tapped it using a 1A NPT thread. I've made sure to clean all the shavings out of it and bolt it back to the engine block. Then I've used a Raceworks stainless steel fitting, multiple fittings to act as a T. One part of the T goes straight to my Bosch motorsport sensor that will pick up both pressure and temperature, being oil. And the other side of the T is going straight to an AN4 line on the other side of the engine to feed my Pulsar turbo and make sure that it gets oil compared to my RB powered Nissan, which cooked the turbo because I didn't run oil to it. Idiot, but lesson learned. And all your part numbers are there as well. So easy fix, easy. So the water pump I'm using is a brand new 2JZ-GTE VVTR component. It's, you get the water pump to suit your cylinder head, I believe. I bought the water neck and that little other dilly adapter thing. So yeah, that's what you're gonna do. That's what you need to buy. Moving on, we're gonna be putting a MLS head gasket, a multi-layer steel head gasket, a factory OEM Toyota 2JZ-GT head gasket on the engine. Ideally, you wanna have two mating surfaces that are decked or machined, being the cylinder head and the cylinder block for the head gasket to properly seal. For the reasons I've already mentioned, the block that we are using, we don't wanna disassemble it so we can't take it to the machine shop and have a machine run over the top and flatten it. Instead, we wanna remove the old head gasket material and double check that this block is straight for the head gasket to seal. I don't have experience in this. So a person that didn't want his name mentioned in this video, Tristan from WTF Auto, aka Quick Shift TV, the guy that's building the V12 Supra, he came out, double checked it with a straight edge and used an oiling stone, used an oiling stone with a heap of WD-40 to remove the factory residue from the head gasket. Our cylinder head is a brand new cylinder head so we didn't need to have that done. So it's ready to go on the engine. Moving on, brother, I'm smashing this. Smashing it, this is my third go so we're doing a lot better. Next up, what I purchased is a 2JZ-GTE seal kit. It comes with everything you need, the head gasket, the manifold gasket, the valve cover, the valve stem seals, everything. If you were to try and purchase all the components that you actually need, all the O-rings and everything, separately, along with the head gaskets, it ends up costing you more money than just buying the complete seal kit and being left with leftovers. So that's why I did it. All right, so now let's switch to some footage that was filmed prior to my trip when I had a lot more hair on my head and looked a lot less like a Serbian immigrant drug smuggler. All right, is it on? All right, so this build has completely blown out of proportion and I've got some Kelford cams and valve springs to go in the 2JZ. Now, I got this from the boys over at Golby's. Pretty much, I shot Julian a message and I said, I'm going broke, can you look after us slightly? That's actually what happened, but I probably shouldn't say that. So we should probably do another take. Now, here we've got some Kelford cams. I didn't want to do it because as you can see, the head's already been machined and everything's good to go. So when you buy these 2JZ GT VVTi heads brand new, the valve seats are already cut. So pretty much, you need to put buckets in it, shims, valves, valve stem seals, camshafts, and valve springs. So we have everything. These are actually secondhand 2JZ GT VVTi camshafts out of Philip Youngsmith's S15 because he went bigger. He gave them to me for a pretty good deal and I thought, you know what, just to get me going, let's just put these in for the time being and send it. After talking to Tristan from WTF Auto, he said, look, what you've done is you've gone for a Pulsar G35 turbocharger, which is a big turbo, but you are now restricting that engine with small cams, which makes completely no sense. If you were going to do that, you were better off buying a smaller turbocharger, which I didn't know at the time. The idea was to future-proof this car, but the only limiting factor now is this bottom end, which, you know, if I do decide to keep the car, we can build it one day because I've got a spare block to the side. So once again, the boys over at Golbi's have come in clutch with another package that's been delivered very promptly. Oh, I don't know if that's going to fit me, but. All right, shirt barely fits. We've been eating a bit too many Krispy Kremes, but what do you do? Boom. So we've got titanium retainers, single valve springs. The part number of this stuff is, we've got an air freshener. Don't need that when you're out of the running car. I don't know, I think I'm slowly starting to mature up and I'm slowly getting more patience. So instead of just sending it with this and being not happy with it, I figured, well, I might as well push the build back maybe another two months, save up for some cams, you know, by the time the machine shop does its thing and all that, just get it done right the first time. So when I sit and drive this car, that's pretty much it until something blows. All right, so the camshaft of choice, Kelford 272, 278. All right, here we go. Now why we got this is, we wanna do a Whistlin' Diesel camshaft review. So we're just gonna, nah. Moving on, I use an ARP thread chaser tool. This is not your traditional tap. It is actually a tap that cleans the threads. It doesn't cut threads. I believe the 2JZ uses an M11 by 1.25 thread pitch. And the reason I did that is I want all the gunk, the dirt out of those threads for when the studs go in for them to have the best possible ability to clamp down the cylinder head to the block and make sure that this gasket seals. So I'm just trying to be as preventative as I possibly can. All these little bits and pieces are very cheap insurance for me. So that's why I did it. Oh, sick. All right, so we've got a OEM 2JZ head gasket, multi-layer steel, MLS. It just comes in the seal kit. So I just gotta figure out what way this goes on. Moving on, the ARP washers and nuts are greased up. The washers are installed prior to the head going onto the block. And I'm using a little Allen key. I put the washer onto the Allen key. I slide it into the hole and let it slide down. It acts as a bit of a guide. It's a very easy way of doing that. Then I put the cylinder head onto the block. And now we have to use the nuts to torque it down. Oh, lovely. Thank you. The nuts also receive a little bit of grease. I followed the ARP specifications of the given torque rating that I need, but I broke it down into three different steps. And also there is a particular sequence on how you need to do it to make sure that this cylinder head is slowly torqued down to the block in the correct fashion. That's the way you do it. Get your high for nothing. Get your chicks. Next you gotta do it. Promises are made. Like it always did. When it's over. It takes a lot to avoid the depression. Don't die, but it's safe for now. I don't know, but I'll die. There's a perfect time. As for the R35 GDI coil packs, they're original Hitachi items. They've been sourced through Raceworks. You guys have already seen a big Raceworks sticker on the other side of the Supra. You've seen me rock their hoodie. I probably wear their hoodie a little too often because I'm borderline homeless when it comes to clothing. I've got like two shirts and a pair of shorts and some shoes to my name. Nevertheless, it is pretty obvious that the most anti-business business person on this platform is in collaboration with the company. I don't promote bullshit. You don't see me promoting VPN services. I've had multiple opportunities to promote video games and stuff like that. Quick money, quick profits. I am not interested. I'm interested in companies that believe in me, that believe in what I'm doing. These guys have come on board. Thank you, Jamie and the team. All I ask from my viewers, I don't ask you to do anything. Buy my merch or any of that ----. If you see a business that's supporting me and if you believe in the mission I'm trying to achieve, then please, when there is something that you might need, a component, obviously you wanna do your best to look for alternatives and the best prices and stuff like that. But if there is an opportunity for you to support the businesses that support me and this build and everything I do, please take your time and your money. Yeah, that sounded real sleazy, but I don't know what other way to word it because I'm not into this whole promotional activity business sector. All right, I just had to check my notes. Let's do a little bit of an outro. So in the next episode, we've got the exhaust manifold, the turbo going on the engine then we're sliding everything in. We're gonna start plumbing up all the AN lines. As for the wiring harness, it's already 90% complete even prior to me going on the holiday. Dropped the car off at Tristan's. It had a brand new engine wiring harness, 90% done. As I said, we were just waiting on some connectors that have now arrived. I still need to buy an ECU and stuff. Realistically, we've got another 15, 20 grand to go before this car's done. And hopefully that'll happen pretty soon because as I said, I really need a car to drive for summer for the sake of content as well. Leading into my next point is, I read the comments. I'm very aware of everything that's going on, what you guys wanna see, and I completely agree. Less body work episodes. At this stage in life, that is completely impossible because the customer cars I do, I wanna document, I wanna share with you guys. Also, the income that is generated from that pays for this. Well, I can't have a personal car that looks worse or better than the customer cars. So obviously, we need to complete the body work on my cars as well. In my opinion, if you have a street car that looks like a pile of ----, it is a pile of ----. That's about it for this episode, ladies and gentlemen. If you like my videos, hype me up in the comments below. Smash that like button. Go buy my merch. Go subscribe to that VPN site. And bye.