Regency Working Class Women's Clothing

The viral success of Bridgerton and the perennial popularity of Jane Austen have placed the focus of Regency costuming on the ball gowns and frippery of fashionable ladies. But what about the clothing of working class women? The servants, fishmongers, and farmer's wives? While perhaps not as elegant, it certainly is just as important for appreciating the full story of this time period. The basic undergarment for all women, regardless of class, is a simple shift, in this case made of linen. Wool stockings are held up with garters made of wool tape tied just below the knee. Low-heeled leather shoes are tied on top of the foot. Even as waistlines began to rise, women still wore stays to provide bust support and create the desired silhouette. These stays are based on a couple of extant examples from the mid-to-late 1790s. The addition of gussets at the bust helps give a more natural, rounded look to the bosom. They are made from unbleached linen and linen tape and boned with synthetic whalebone from Burnley & Trowbridge Company. Because of the higher waistline, petticoats often had straps or sleeveless bodices to help keep them in place. Separate pockets were still worn as a secure way to keep personal belongings close at hand. By tying the pocket behind the straps of the petticoat, the pocket is held up at the higher waistline. The outer petticoat of wool fastens on the left-hand side to allow access to the pocket. The short gown was a practical and easy-to-wear garment for working-class women. They were also worn by fashionable women as informal at-home clothing. Some short gowns were very simple, one-piece garments fitted with drawstrings at the neck Drawstrings created flexibility, allowing for changes in a woman's size and pregnancy. Short gowns could vary widely in their length, reaching anywhere from just below the bust to hip length. Kerchiefs are nearly ubiquitous in images of working-class women. Tied around the shoulders or tucked into the neckline, kerchiefs provided coverage and warmth in winter and shaded the skin during summer. This kerchief is a reproduction from Burley & Trowbridge Company. Finally, a linen apron is tied at the high waist. Scarlet red wool cloaks had been incredibly popular during the 18th century and continued to be worn into the early 19th century, especially by working-class women. The simple black silk bonnet has its origins in bonnets of the previous century. The brim is stiffened with pasteboard, which is made from gluing multiple layers of paper together. Working-class women also owned and wore gowns. It's important to keep in mind that the word gown in the 18th and early 19th centuries referred to any such garment, not just fancy ones. The word dress was not yet used to refer to a single garment, but instead was used to talk about a certain style of clothing, like riding dress or mourning dress. This gown is made of printed cotton. It closes first with a separate linen lining in front. Then the gown is fitted to the body with drawstrings at the neckline and waist. Once the gown is fastened, the center front opening practically disappears into the gathers. In order to make this gown, I had to do a lot of piecing in the skirt, but I think it adds to the character of it as a working-class garment. Another reproduction kerchief from Burnley and Trowbridge helps complete the outfit. And of course, the linen apron can be worn with this as well. I hope you've enjoyed this look at a side of Regency costuming that isn't often seen today. Let me know if there are other time periods that you'd like to see for common people's clothing, and be sure to like and subscribe. See you next time.