History of the Suit in 22 Minutes: The Evolution of Menswear from 1800 to Today

Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette. In today's video, we share with you the history and the evolution of the suit in 22 minutes. Even though many elements of the suit as we know it today have remained unchanged since its inception, there are certainly differences in the details of a suit from 2020 compared to a suit from the 1980s or the 1940s. First of all, what exactly is a suit? The term suit is derived from the French term suivre which means to follow meaning the jacket follows the pants or vice versa. So, a suit is a combination of a jacket and a pair of pants in a matching fabric. It's not just a color but also made out of the same fabric. Like many aspects of classic menswear, the origins of the suit can also be traced back to Beau Brummel. He was the prototypical gent in 19th century England. Before Beau Brummel, menswear was heavily influenced by the French court and evolved around heavily embroidered fabrics such as velvet and knee breeches and stockings. Beau Brummel replaced all of this with long trousers worn with boots and a coat that didn't have much ornamentation or color. Frankly, Brummel may not have been the first one to simplify the classic French men's wardrobe because at that point in time, it had already become unpopular. French menswear was negatively associated with the French Revolution and people who wore it were beheaded under guillotine. Nevertheless, Beau Brummel definitely popularized the new less ornamental style. Now, it seems like the top and the bottom of Beau Brummel's outfits weren't always exactly the same in matching but the whole silhouette and the more muted color stream laid the groundwork for the modern suit as we know it today. By the start of the Victorian era, which lasted from 1837 to 1901, the first and foremost garment a man would wear was a frock coat. It was basically a black coat that resembles modern overcoats. It had a single vent in the back and was either single or double-breasted. In terms of length, it reached down all the way to the knees. That's why it resembles an overcoat. While the single-breasted version of a frock coat was more common, the double-breasted version was more formal because it was also known as the Prince Albert. Later in the Victorian era, the frock coat basically split up in two different elements. On the one hand, we had the morning coat that kept the tails. On the other hand, we had the lunch suit which lost it. While the morning suit remained the length, it now had open quarters rather than the closed quarters of a frock coat and it often had just a single button and it wasn't double-breasted anymore. At the time, it became the number one option for formal day wear but in today's world, it's probably even more formal and typically only worn at royal weddings or high society weddings. Maybe in England, it's a little different. We can still see the regular Joe wearing a morning coat for their wedding but in the US and outside of England, it's typically just done so in very certain circles either by people who really appreciate classic men's clothing or because they have a certain status in society. If you want to learn more about morning dress, please check out our in-depth morning dress guide here. While frock coats and morning coats could technically be worn with a matching pair of trousers, more often, they were worn with contrasting trousers. Still in a darker color scheme but nevertheless, they weren't made out of a matching fabric. On the other hand, the lounge suit consisted of top and bottom of matching fabric. Because of that, it was also known as dittos which is derived from the term ditto which means same fabric for top and bottoms. The lounge suit was originally developed in the 1850s to the 1860s in Scotland. It was made out of heavier fabric and was meant to be a garment for casual outdoor occasions. Nowadays, in the mind of most people, a suit is a very formal garment but during the Victorian era, it was the opposite. It was a casual garment that was not meant to be formal at all. Specifically, the matching aspect of trousers and pants made it less formal because frock coats and morning coats were worn with somewhat contrasting trousers. Another difference was obviously the length. It was a much shorter coat without the tails and it was cut more sack-like without pronounced front darts. As the name implies, the lounge suit was primarily a garment for the casual lounge, something to be comfortable in, especially in the British countryside. Of course, at the time, central heating was not the norm and so suits were always worn with a vest or a waistcoat that was matching so you always had a three-piece suit. As we started the 20th century, the suit as we know it today was pretty much developed. From that point on, the shape was defined and it was merely details that changed. It could be the lapel width, the jacket length, the buttoning point, the height of the gorge, the type of fabrics that were used, but overall, it was just an adaptation to an existing model. In the first decade of the 1900s, which is also known as the Edwardian era, the lounge suit persisted and became more and more popular. The more formal frock coats and morning coats were still around and were typically worn by older men but they lost ground very quickly. If you ever have the chance to touch a suit from the Edwardian era, you'll notice that the fabric is extremely heavy and coarse because on the one hand, fabric finishing wasn't as refined as it is today and on the other hand, it was quite expensive and again, there was no central heating and because of that, suits had to be warm even when worn inside. Many households still heated with coal and cities were, in general, a dirty, sooty place to be. Because of that, the city suit was typically tailored out of darker colored fabric. On the flip side, country suits typically had more patterns and brown tones in them. For example, if you watch the first episodes of Downton Abbey today, you can see the trend that country suits are less formal and more colorful than their city suit counterparts. The 1920s were an exciting decade for the suit as it went from super slim to fuller towards the end. Right after World War I, the suit had a strong military influence. The jacket was cut to trim, maybe slightly longer, had a higher buttoning point, and the trousers were quite slim with cuffs and relatively short. However, by the end of the decade, fashion forward suits already had the precursor of the drape suit which meant there was more fabric in the chest and also the pants were cut a little wider. Drape and the drape suit really became popular in 1930s England and the US and you can learn more about it here. During the 1920s, trousers all had a very high rise especially compared to today's pants. While jackets were cut pretty tightly towards the beginning of the 1920s, towards the end, they had become wider in the shoulder with a bit more waist suppression and in combination with the high rise pants, you get that visual illusion of longer legs and a pronounced waistline. While the pant legs initially touched the sock, by the end of the decade, the most fashion forward suits had an opening of 11 and a half inches. However, it wasn't a flare cut, it was a straight cut and sometimes even a tapered cut so there was lots of room in your trousers. If you want to get a better idea of this style in action, you may want to watch the series Jeeves and Worcester and we also cover their styles here. Because it was the Roaring 20s which is also known as the Jazz Age, the big difference in terms of suiting materials was that they were more stylish, there was more flash, so you saw more colors, more patterns, and everything was a bit more lively compared to previous generations of suits and also an increasing interest in accessorizing their suits with let's say pocket squares or shirts with collar pins. In the end, it was a rebellion towards the tradition of having dark suits and muted colors without bold patterns. For example, if you watch the show of Boardwalk Empire, you see exactly what I mean. You see really loud suits in bold colors, stripes, and it's just a very interesting time for the suit. Likewise, the great Gatsby reflects this perfectly with his pink suit. The 1920s were also known for the double-breasted waistcoat which was typically worn underneath a single-breasted jacket with notch lapels. Today, that would be considered quite unusual. If you see a double-breasted waistcoat, it typically features a jacket with a single or maybe two buttons and peak lapels. You'd also want to button the jacket in order to show the double-breasted waistcoat. The 1930s were characterized by a suit that had a heavy drape cut with a wide shoulder, a lot of waist suppression, high-rise trousers that were just cut very full and just tapered slightly towards the shoes. It was the number one style in England, in the US, but also places like Vienna. Jackets were typically a bit longer and had no vents in the back for an ideal clean line when you would stand. Also, bear in mind, the fabrics were still quite heavy so they draped really well and it didn't wrinkle very much. Overall, the look was very masculine and it built the basis of a very heroic look on the silver screen. Just look at Cary Grant or Clark Gable who perfectly used the suit to underline their personalities in the movies. To learn more about the style of both of them, please check our respective guides and videos here. Overall, I'd say the 1930s drape style was a little more refined or tapered towards the leg compared to the late 20s suits. Even today, the 1930s are often referred to as the golden age of classic menswear in big part because of the way the suits were designed and you can learn more about that and get a better idea of it by checking out our ebook, Gentleman of the Golden Age. In the following decade, the suit changed a lot. World War II meant that everything had to be rationed and so there was no more fabric for these elaborate full-cut large suits. Instead, the 1940s suits was characterized by minimalism. The gray flannel suit became the option of choice for professional sober everyday wear. It wasn't double-breasted, it was single-breasted, it had narrow lapels, and a very trim cut trouser without cuffs in order to save fabric. For the same reasons, waistcoats or vests became unpopular and if you look at the suit from the 1940s, it is very close to the fashion of a 2020 suit because it's lean and trim and overall, very slim. Of course, the fabrics were still a lot heavier than they are today and they also had a bit more texture than what you would get today. The exception in the 1940s minimalist suit was the rebellious zoot suit. It was a product of the youth, particularly in African-American and Mexican communities. It had really baggy pants, a long jacket, and everything was oversized and excessive. The shoulders were super padded and often people criticized it as being unpatriotic because it put your own idea of fashion beyond the rationing of fabric. During the 1950s, the post-war rebellion definitely had an impact on the suit. To the end of austerity, some people went back to the suit style from before the war so lapels came wider, pants had pleats again, and it wasn't as slim anymore. Pleated pants were particularly popular because they allowed for more range of movement and more comfort and that, by the way, is still true today. The vest and the three-piece suit continued to decline because central heating was more or less well established at the time and so the need for extra heat inside had vanished. Again, it was a post-war period and just like after the 1920s when there was this post-war rebellion against the previous generation style, the same thing happened in the 50s. It wasn't just a suit suit but many other young men rebelled against the style of their fathers and grandfathers by wearing t-shirts or jeans or leather jackets. Another example of this rebellion, maybe so in a more subtle way, was the Ivy League style which was epitomized by the sack suit style jacket. It's usually defined by a three-row two jacket with a single center vent and pants without pleats. The Ivy style jacket was always single-breasted and had very little or no padding in the shoulders which made for a very natural silhouette which is more closely associated with Italy today but, in fact, the Americans had done that for a long time, too. This was a time when Brooks Brothers really dominated in American history and overall, the casualization of clothes also didn't make hold of the suit so Ivy League style was characterized by combinations more so than the suit. Yes, the suit was still around but sports coats had become more popular due to their increased texture and color variation. Now, the end of the 50s saw yet another subculture in suits known as a mod suit. It was slim fitting with narrow lapels, was worn with narrow ties, non-pleated pants that were very thin and straight cut. For good examples of 1950s suits, you can look at Frank Sinatra or the Rat Pack. They really epitomized the style of the time. During the 1960s, the style of the 50s was more or less extended when it came to suits. So, you had closely fitting suits with some shoulder paddings that were worn with narrow ties. Trousers were rather narrow, a little bit more tapered towards the ankle, and short so you wouldn't see a break on the shoe even if there were cuffs or no cuffs. Fabrics were still rather heavy and textured but they made some advancements and now added nylon and new artificial fibers to the fabric because that was a new thing. In that same vein, sport coats with bolder patterns seem to be favored for more muted ones. A little glimpse at the style of the 60s can be seen in the series Mad Men where you can see, for example, people wear bold plaid coats, slim suits to the office. The style definitely came to a halt in the 1970s which can be considered to be a low point in the history of the suit and men's fashion in general. Suits were still relatively tight but had really big lapels, they were rather flashy, and pants oftentimes had a flare cut. Now, interestingly, the 70s saw the return of the three-piece suit but it wasn't formal at all, it was rather casual and more part of the disco culture. Just think of John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever. Along with the bright colors, synthetics were now predominantly used in 1970s suits which didn't make them better in the long term. Just overall, it was a decade to be forgotten. Now, the 80s, on the other hand, were a lot better for a suit. If we had to break it down to one thing, it would be probably the power suit. It was popularized first by Richard Gere as American Gigolo but also on TV by Miami Vice. The central figure in this suit silhouette was Giorgio Armani. The Italian had a suit jacket that was soft yet broad in the shoulders, it had wider lapels with a Overall, Armani created a very defining suit silhouette but today, it's easily dated as the 1980s because of that. Another great example of the power suit was the stuff that Michael Douglas wore as Gordon Gekko in the film Wall Street. All those suits were designed by Alan Flusser and they're the epitome of what a power suit is to this day. To learn more about the please check out this video here. In short, you saw the return of the double-breasted suit, you saw pinstripes again, and full-cut pants. Despite the fact that Armani essentially reduced the structure of the suit and made it very soft, it was still considered to be something that had strong or large shoulders and a defined silhouette. In general, the 80s were a time of excess and a celebration of capitalism and the power suit was a direct expression of that time. Now, the 1990s were another low point of the suit. They basically took the worst aspects of the 80s suits, pronounced it, and made it even more ugly. The 90s suit was more clownish. Single-breasted jackets sometimes had three or even four buttons, double-breasted ones had six buttons, but only the very bottom one was buttoned on an extremely low buttoning point, so just the proportions looked off. Pants were boxy and baggy and were too long and puddled around the ankles. In contrast to that, the early 2000s saw the return of the slim fit suit. The new millennium brought a total reaction to the fully cut puddling suits of the 80s and 90s and went back more to a minimalist style that we had seen before in the 40s. Some would even argue it went back more to a 1960s mod style suit. Now, not only did the suit get slimmer but it also got shorter and the buttoning point got higher. At the same time, some people preferred to wear the black suit as an easy way to create a minimalist uniform that was reduced. Pants were often hemmed quite short, jackets had narrow lapels, and a perfect example of that is Tom Brown which made extremely short jackets and pants. Others like Tom Ford, for example, had still slimmer cut suits but they weren't as extreme. Because of that, Tom Ford suits can still be worn today versus Tom Brown suits are more a fashion statement than something a regular man would wear in an everyday setting. In the following decade, society in general became more casual and the need for a suit really disappeared. At the same time, there has been a resurgence in classic men's clothing of people who don't have to wear a suit but who intentionally want to wear a suit because they like the look of it and how it makes them feel. While popular suits in general are still slim, the gorge on the jacket has moved further up especially for peak lapel jackets and the buttoning point has come up also. Sometimes, the jackets have even gotten shorter to the extent where they don't even cover part of your bum anymore. Suit supply became a worldwide phenomenon reflecting this trend towards a slimmer, shorter jacket, higher buttoning point suit. Likewise, internet technology enabled a lot of entrepreneurs to come up with online made-to-measure services so people can customize their suit online without the need of having to see a tailor. Nevertheless, with a general resurgence in interest for the topic of suits and classic men's wear, there are probably more bespoke tailors today than there were 20 years ago. Thanks to the internet, interest groups from all across the world can now connect, share, and drop their knowledge and so the general knowledge about suit and classic men's style has definitely increased. In most recent years, the casual three-row two jacket with more natural shoulders and a slim silhouette and sometimes even string trousers have become more popular. So it's all about getting more casual with more texture and brighter colors in a jacket that is soft and unstructured and sometimes even made out of a knit fabric which is extremely flexible and feels more like wearing a sweater rather than a traditional suit jacket. So what will the following decade mean for the suit? It's hard to tell but We The Gentleman's Gazette will always focus on classic style that is still relevant in the present. In today's video, I'm wearing a dark blue double-breasted suit made out of a very fine worsted wool fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico. It's a custom suit and it's extremely soft in the shoulders and the fabric. It really feels more like a sweater than anything else. Because it's such a fine high-twisted yarn, it is prone to wrinkles. At the same time, I can shower. I'm combining it with a double cuffed summer shirt in bolder stripes of white, yellow, blue, and brown and a yellow silk knit tie from Fort Belvedere that matches the linen pocket square with cross stitches in a contrasting blue which pick up the color in the outfit. My shoes are hand patinaed brown monk straps that have a nice color gradation between yellow brownish light brown and darker browns and I'm tying it together with a suit using a pair of cheddar striped socks from Fort Belvedere in blue and grayish blue. My cufflinks are gold monkey fists from Fort Belvedere and you can find them in our shop here.