Fish farming: Is aquaculture the solution to overfishing or harmful to biodiversity?

In tartare, sushi or grilled, the global consumption of fish in our diet has never been greater. In 2014, for the first time in history, we consumed more farmed fish than wild caught fish. Anyone can raise fish, but raising them at a good price and high level of quality is very difficult. Tilapia, the name may not be familiar to you, but it is nevertheless the best-selling fish in the world. Inexpensive and boneless, it doesn't even taste like fish. By 2025, tilapia along with trout, sea bass and carp will be the main staples of our diet, all fed on algae and insects, because emptying the oceans to fatten up farmed fish is no longer a viable option. Here you have a bag of protein which is perfectly suited to fish nutrition. And what if the solution came from aquaponics, the sort of marriage of the aquarium and the vegetable garden? Less than a century ago, trout and freshwater fish were present every Friday on French tables, before they were replaced by ocean fish species. Today, the French are gradually rediscovering their taste for freshwater fish. In Banca, at the bottom of the Aldudes Valley, on the height of the Basque Country, Michel Gogotia has never doubted their potential. He has been raising his famous river trout for 40 years. His secret? A small canal built in the 17th century, which supplied water to an old mill. So here, our good fortune is that this is 100% spring water. 1.2 miles upstream, water comes out of the earth. All year round, at the same temperature, 53 degrees Fahrenheit. So we are never affected by droughts. Summer, it's never too hot, and winter, it's never too cold. We always have a constant flow into our system. We leave a lot of water for the river, for the wild environment. And gravity carries the small portion that feeds our ponds at the end. This is holy water. It's a fabulous water. It has great minerals, a fantastic purity and clarity. We treat our water with great care. We've learned to observe it because it speaks. Water transmits information. If we treat it with benevolence, its benevolence comes back to us. This water comes from the Arpaia Spring, classified 1A. There is no better rating in France. It allows these trout to benefit from growing conditions similar to those of their wild cousins. Our site is a series of cascades. We built it on a slope. Our waterfalls re-oxygenate and provide an enormous flow into the pools. We can see the bottom of the pond, meaning fish density is low. They have space. In terms of density, we are three to four times below what is recommended, at around 55 pounds per 10 square feet. But we could go up to 200 or 250 pounds. This is for optimum comfort. Hello. Hello, Peu. You good? Real good. Nice day. The water's beautiful. It's perfect. Sure is. It's very clear. The fish are good. Some are already at nine pounds. That means they'll be ready soon. How many are there? There are at least 1,500 heads here. 1,500 heads. OK. Pampered in cascading pools, the fish frolic for four to five years in naturally oxygenated spring water. Once a day, at mealtime, they become excited. These organic pellets are very close to what trout find in their natural environment. The food is made from vitamins, cereals and fish, since trout is carnivorous. It's a balanced compound that's suitable for our site. It's very nutritious. Very little fat. It's very well balanced. This is a luxury food for the trout. It's expensive. So it means feeding them only when needed. We let them fast on Sundays so they reconstitute their bacterial flora. The fasting system exists in all animals and allows them to optimize their immunity and to better transform what they eat. It's something that exists in nature. All animals do this. There you go. They're large trout, raised over a long period, about four years. It has a beautiful color and the head is as big as the body. That shows the quality right away. If she had been fattened, the head would be small and the body a big oval. Here you see a uniform fuselage between the head and the rest of the body with good length. That proves that the trout has lived a long time and grown slowly. We sell this to passionate chefs looking for top quality with a good origin and ethic behind it. Meaning it's delicious. The fish has grown in total comfort. We respect nature. And after that, it's in the art of cooking. Banca Trout is a hit in four-star restaurants, even in the Senate dining room. So much so that Michel cannot satisfy all of his customers. In 2018, there were 500 tons less smoked trout available than orders in France. While the world production of farmed fish has been multiplied by 12 over the past 30 years, France has not increased production since the mid-90s. No new aquaculture farm has been born. A public inquiry, coupled with an impact study and authorizations, followed by administrative appeals, all this very often deter entrepreneurs. For Philippe Riera, CEO of Gloria Marès, the French leader in marine aquaculture, the fatal blow came from France and Germany. The European Union imposed huge investments in Greece. French and German investments, European investments. And for 15 years, Greece brought down the prices. They produced at $5 and sold at $2.50. And they got bailed out every year. It hurt all the aquaculture companies. It's a terrible story. When I say hurt, I'm talking about a sector with about a 250% rate of bankruptcy. 250 is over 100% of companies, because companies went bankrupt several times. Like Spain, Italy and France, where only two companies didn't file for bankruptcy. In spite of all these difficult currents, Philippe Riera saved his company. It is here, in the Gulf of Ajaccio, that he settled almost 30 years ago, on the Parada site, near the Sanguinaire Islands. His aqua farm now has about 50 cages, of which about 15 are specially reserved for breeding meager. A little-known fish in France. We were almost the only ones north of the Mediterranean to raise meager. There were farms in Egypt and Tunisia. We released a Corsican red label product, which opened up access to prestigious tables in France. It's one of the company's great successes. Adam, you gave it directly? Yeah, the minimum. Yeah, I know. And it's already done? As our fish are red label, we use a very specific diet. A food-certified red label. You see the LR label. The grain is 46% proteins and 16% lipids. Red label food must be made of 40% marine origin product. This food is a little richer, well, significantly richer than a conventional food that has only 20-25% marine origin product. This is 100% traceable, GMO-free, pesticide-free, guaranteed, and under this label, it's verified two to three times a year by external auditors. Jean-Philippe is responsible for quality control in the company. Together with Sophie, his production alter ego. They make sure everything meets the red label specifications. No pesticides or antibiotics, and a density between 13 and 15 pounds per 10 square feet. These meager receive five veterinary checks per month. We're fishing for meager, and our meager is red label quality. In Europe, I think there are two or three producers, so very few. In France, we are the only ones. Now we're extracting a sample from the cage, which we'll grab with a hand net and deposit in an ice tank with a mix of saltwater brine and ice to be able to slaughter the fish. For red label, our cages are fished at the last minute, so there's a minimum of time between slaughter and packaging, and they're slaughtered in a special way, by thermal shock in the icy brine tanks, to be able to meet the red label conditions. On the outside, they are magnificent. Their skin color is very pretty. The tails are well formed, and we see that the gills are very red, without monogenic worms. It's a sign of the good health of the fish. We have four hours to condition them, to guarantee the red label optimal freshness for the consumer. This is what allows us to differentiate ourselves from a conventional product. A red label meager, that's unique in France. But at what price? Farms like this are very expensive to maintain, because winter storms in the Mediterranean are terrible. Around our small farm, there are 70 long lines, with four-ton anchor ballasts. It's a huge spider's web. And the system holding all that, it's like everything in the sea. It gets destroyed every year. Every other post, there's a chain with attach lines. We have to attach these lines to the net, to keep the net wide open. Without the lines and chains, the net could shrink in and suddenly damage the fish. And beneath the marine farm, there are no traces of pollution. No waste. The octopus can sleep soundly. 1,000 tons of meager, sea bream and sea bass are produced in these cages every year. Bass has become such a trendy fish, that it's threatened with extinction in the wild. So you have to farm-raise it, and above all, make it reproduce. We visit Gravelines, in the north of France. This aquatic maternity is one of the largest in Europe. It belongs to Philippe Riera's group, and produces baby fish, or fry. And also their baby formula, zooplankton, cultivated in the laboratory. The seawater is heated by the nuclear power station, located next door. It's convenient when you need hot water all the time. When we farm fish that need hot water, either we spend a fortune on heating the water, or we use an alternative solution. The plant rejects millions of liters of hot water. We might as well benefit from it. Nicolas is the site manager. Alex, who accompanies him, manages the reproduction. The Gravelines site supplies the Ajaxo farm with baby fish. This is where we have all the moms and dads. And the different lighting is because we regulate the light and temperature in the basins, so they will lay eggs all year round. And not just have spawns during the natural laying periods. This allows us to be able to supply fry exactly when Corsica needs it. This basin is scheduled for the middle of August. And this basin is scheduled for the middle of May. They have two completely different periods. The mother fish spawn in the pond. The eggs go through these pipes here, then end up inside this tarp. So they're captured through the mesh that looks like a mosquito net. The water goes out and the eggs get caught inside. At the end of the harvest, we see a few eggs on the surface. You see a residue at the bottom. Those are eggs that have been fertilized. Here I observe the larvae to see what stage they're in. If they hatched well and are in good shape. If they're swimming well. I see they are pelagic. They rise up through the layers of water. So everything looks fine. At this stage, the larvae are marketable. 100 million are shipped in tanks every year all over Europe. For the newborn, you will have to wait a few weeks. Transferred from pond to pond, 6 to 8 million fry selected from 0.1 to 0.2 ounces leave the gravelling hatchery each year. No antibiotics or pesticides are used. No growth hormones and no dyes. The fry are organic and red label. But is this the case in all hatcheries? We visit China, the world's biggest producer of farmed fish and the biggest consumer too. Carp remains the most consumed fish. But it is followed by a newcomer, tilapia. This name may not ring a bell, but it's nevertheless the best-selling fish in the world. In just a few years, the island of Hainan in the south of the country has become the planetary capital of tilapia farming. We have an appointment with Nian Zong, the site manager of ProGift, the largest tilapia incubation centre in the world. Miles and miles of ponds, pipes and vats where 115 billion tilapia eggs grow. 200 people work in the company. The workers are collecting the eggs. Follow me. The first step involves collecting the eggs from the mouth of the female. There are physical differences between males and females. The workers are used to it. During the breeding season, the male turns red and is larger than the female. The female holds her eggs in her mouth to protect them because the tilapia is very aggressive, and if the female does not keep the eggs in her mouth, the others will eat them. We must therefore collect the eggs as quickly as possible. A female will lay about 2,000 eggs per month. This is the level reached by our company. Normally, a tilapia lays a few hundred eggs per month, not just a few dozen. The eggs hatch in this strange palace, only going out for food, and that's when they can change their gender. Aided by the hormones added to their food, fish of a new kind, neo-males or neo-females, depending on production needs. The techniques of hormonal-sexual reversion are not new. They were developed in the 1970s, especially in France. Jean-François Baroyer, researcher at SeaRad in Montpellier, is a specialist. For many species of fish, from a production point of view, one of the two sexes will be more interesting than the other. For example, for sea bass or for turbo, females have a better growth ratio. In trout, females have better meat quality and better disease resistance. So in these species, it's better to produce females. In tilapia, you need males. You must produce neo-females by feeding the baby fish with a food containing a specific hormone, 17-alpha-ethinyl-estradiol. These fish will be used as reproducers, and the descendants of these neo-females will be composed exclusively of males. In Europe, these neo-male or neo-female parents are extremely watched over and euthanized after having procreated. In China, they are eaten, along with their descendants. The males that are produced will be marketed for consumption, meaning we're going to eat classic males and also neo-males, who have been reversed by methyl testosterone. Though use of masculizing hormones is common in intensive breeding, Jean-François is working on other, less chemical solutions. CIRAD is working on approaches to masculinization by high temperatures. High temperatures applied early during the fry's first stages of development will be able to masculinize certain families. What we advocate is zero hormone use, also to protect the environment. Because these hormones are inevitably found in pond water. We return to see Mr. Zong on the island of Hainan. We now come to the incubation workshop, the largest in the world. The tilapia eggs were transported to the shed to be sterilized, meaning cleaned with water mixed with other products. I'm going to take this over there, but you can't film me. Filming this is forbidden. We won't know what the product is. There are nearly 1,200 buckets and 115 million eggs in incubation in this hangar. 70% of them will become fry and 80% of these fry will survive. An impressive success rate. Further away, in the blue basins, the fry will remain for one month, fed every hour 10 times a day. This tank is 5,300 gallons. We breed between 250,000 and 300,000 fry here. We have to wait 10 days before marketing them. As you can see, the fry are developing very well in a uniform way. We look at its size, shape and also its appearance. It is during this period that the tilapia's sex is defined through hormones. Mr. Zong only wants males who all grow at the same speed and homogeneously. There is chemistry to change the sex of the fish, but not only that. Further on, we discover other products at the foot of the pools. Mr. Zong agrees to talk about them. Here is a mixture of fungi, algae and microorganisms. This is to improve the presence of algae in the water. It's a nutrient solution with good bacteria and photosynthesis catalysts. This is our Baolu product. It strengthens immunity. They are biomass agents based on hormones. This product is based on photosynthetic bacteria, lactic acid bacteria and fungi. Mr. Zong's company supplies 35% of the fry from the island of Hainan. One of its clients is Kinfu, which grows tilapia at nine sites. This is the largest, 170 acres, including 100 acres of ponds. When Kyu Chang tours these pools, it's behind the wheel of his car and it can take a while. He is responsible for the Kinfu group's breeding sites. We have 35 fish ponds. It takes over an hour to go around them. We are one of the biggest independent companies in China and this is no joke. Each pool contains about 60,000 tilapias. And there are 34 pools, over two million heads. Once they have reached maturity, after seven to eight months, all the tilapia in the same basin are fished out. The operation to get all the fish out of the water lasts two days. Tilapia is an easy fish to raise because it's omnivorous. It eats insects, algae, it eats everything. It's a fish that comes from Africa, where it is very popular. This is called a good quality fish at a low price because the technical requirements necessary for its breeding are not very high. Loaded into tank trucks, the tilapia are often anesthetized with chemicals so they don't hurt themselves and arrive alive at the processing plant. Mr. Zhu, the boss of the kinfu group, is a man in a hurry, but he insisted on accompanying us to show us around his factory. Twenty trucks loaded with tilapia arrive every day. We do a first sorting here and everything you see in these bins is thrown away. They are either dead fish or other species of fish. The fish must be fresh, slippery, have a beautiful color, be shiny. It must be bred to our standard. This is our standard. There is no trace of hormone or trace of medication that exceeds the standards. It's true that everything here is a matter of standards and documents. We have a license to export from China to all around the world. It's called HACCP. It's very difficult to get this certificate. We must meet China's export standards and also the standards of the client countries. With this certification, Mr. Zhu can export his fish all over the world. It's less practical for small fish farmers like Madame Fan Bian who does not have the export authorization. In our farms, only 10 have the famous certificate. Look at all those little black dots. They're fry. They are 9 centimeters long. This kind of food is more convenient because there is nothing to prepare. It is ready to be used. I think if you feed them with other foods, the fish will not grow as well. It just needs to eat this kind of food and it will grow faster. Wang Gingong has come to test Fan Bian's pool water. It's a free service provided by the island's Tilapia Management Association. I just measured the oxygen and water temperature. The fish in this pond are starting to get big. They consume a lot of oxygen, so a lot is needed. With the weather like today, the oxygen level in the water is at its highest level. At 5.6 milligrams. Tilapia needs 3 milligrams and here we have 5.6, so it's good. If the fish die, we will all lose hundreds of thousands of yuan. This is why we have so many fountains to create an oxygen exchange with the surface. The surface water, very rich in oxygen, permanently mixes with the water from the bottom of the pond. It's not red. Because if the nitrate level is high, the fish in the pond will not eat and then I will have dead fish. I put in an anti-nitrate treatment yesterday, so today everything is fine. This is why everything seems normal. For Fan Bian, the important thing is to sell beautiful fish to the Kin Fu group, for example, which benefits from all health certificates It weighs more than 18 ounces. In 10 to 20 days, we can sell it. It has been in the pond more than 4 months. The current market price is not good for making money. I would like the price to increase by 50 cents. If the price goes up by 50 cents, I will be able to make a little better living. Now I earn very little. I only pay for expenses. Fan Bian fish, they are then filleted. The head, tail and skeleton are thrown away and the skin is removed. 20,000 tons of tilapia per year are processed by the group's 680 employees. What country is it for? For the United States. Look how fresh it is. This is a very good product. When the spine meat is really red like that, it's a guarantee of quality. Our breeding process, our water and our food comply with the requirements of the importing countries with European and American standards. No antibiotics are used in our ponds. When it arrives by truck at our factory, the tilapia must be tested in our laboratory. After three tests carried out without problem, they can be sent to production. There are three test phases. Yes, three phases. 90% of kinfu's production is for export. 30% goes to Europe. This group alone accounts for 20% of Chinese tilapia exports to the world. This product is going to France. We export two types of products to France. Whole gutted tilapia and fillets. These two products are very popular with the French. The United Nations Food and Agriculture Committee has designated tilapia as a promising species for the 21st century. Tilapia has become the symbol of global aquaculture now that it is farmed in more than 75 countries. Yet it poses serious environmental problems. After using hormones, pesticides, fungi, powdered algae and hydrogen peroxide, the ponds, once fished and emptied, are treated with quicklime. When the pond is drained, mud, fish droppings, moss and algae are left. We can't see if there are harmful bacteria or zooplankton. There may be some in the mud and we need to deal with it. We're going to sprinkle the mud with quicklime and use the sun to break it down, in part, but not all of it. One of the benefits of quicklime is that it is a disinfectant. It kills the algae growing there, disinfects, sterilizes, kills harmful bacteria and then replenishes the waste water. And the waste water from the ponds, where does it go? And above all, what does it contain? We couldn't find out. But there's no doubt that it heads towards the rivers and the sea, saturated with chemicals and pharmaceuticals. In addition to environmental problems, there is a constant pressure on fishery resources to feed wild fish. Wild fish to feed farmed fish, an aberration denounced by Frédéric Le Manoc of the Bloom Association. Fish meal feeding is a practice that is very widespread around the world. We practice it in Europe, it's practiced in Africa, in America. This practice necessitates catching small fish, such as sardines, it can be fish farming to raise salmon or sea bass, but it can also be land farms to raise chickens, pigs or minks, for example. Of the 90 million tons of fish caught each year, 20 million tons are used to feed livestock. Worse still, species that are herbivorous, such as tilapia, are increasingly fed with animal protein obtained from industrial fishing. The province of Hainan alone produces 350,000 tons of tilapia per year. We produce more fish than we catch in the ocean, but this positive trend is being reversed now, especially in China. We realize that when we give fish meal as food to herbivorous fish, which are supposed to consume only algae or plant fragments, these fish grow faster and taste better when we feed the fish that feed us without emptying the oceans even more. At the National Institute of Agromic Research, Sandrine Skiba, Director of the Research Unit on Fish Nutrition, is working on new proteins. There are carnivorous fish, there are herbivorous fish and others are omnivorous. But in any case, the majority of fish species are omnivorous. A trout will be 35 to 45 percent protein, depending on the physiological stage of the animal. And marine fish such as sea bass and sea bream can be up to 55 percent protein. My job is to try to invent a fish diet that is completely devoid of fish meal and fish oil. The difficulty today is if you feed a trout it won't grow as well. Either it eats less because it doesn't like the food or it eats as much but its ability to transform the food into protein that will make up the muscle, the flesh, doesn't work as well. And during the last experiments we used seven sample lines and we fed them with plant foods supplemented with our innovative raw materials, insects. And we are trying to get closer to the performance that we obtain with a food containing fish meal and fish oil. Could caulioptera farming be the solution? Raising beetles to feed fish is the idea of the founders of the French start-up Insect who intend to market a food made from these caulioptera to feed farmed fish. Inspired by the principle of the anthill, the breeding workshop is in the form of superimposed bins. There are over 1,000 each containing Molitor lava. Hydrometry, temperature, feeding, sorting, all operations are automated. Here we're in our vertical farm. The concept of our technology is to breed our insects, Molitor beetles. They are raised 55 feet high to be more efficient by surface area. Here is our Molitor larvae, the beetle we are raising. They are about middle age before their transformation. These will double in size before being transformed into protein for fish food. Hi, Emily. Hi. Everything OK? Henri Jeannin is an insect farmer. He has been raising these little critters and why we chose it is that it does not climb and it does not fly, unlike flies or mosquitoes. It's very interesting because it's a gregarious insect. You can breed up to 4.5 pounds of larvae in plastic trays and that's very interesting. It's the ideal insect for industrial breeding. These are larger larvae. They have just been fed. You see wheat bran on them and shed skins. They're on a slightly damp substrate which brings water and nutrients via other ecoproduct grains. Below we have larvae which are not yet sorted. They'll go to transformation. They are big enough to be transformed. They arrive here, they are scalded and we separate a small part which is the fat, and the rest is a pulp that will be dried in the dryer and reduced to a powder. The powder is our flagship product, the protein to feed animals, fish, but also dogs and cats. So here we have a bag of our protein. We see the product which has a beautiful brown color. We produce up to 1,000 tons of ingredient. About two-thirds is for plant fertilizer and one-third is protein and oil to feed animals. Our site under construction is designed for customers who represent several million tons of purchases per year. Insect breeding farms are part of these new concepts of urban agriculture like aquaponics, an ancient practice coming from Asia which is returning to the forefront. Aquaponics is the marriage of the vegetable garden and the aquarium. Félix Agé in the Toulouse region manages the largest and 22 tons of plants are produced there each year. The principle of aquaponics is to combine three cultures, fish farming, bacterial farming and plant culture. The fish will generate nutrients for the plants which are made available via the bacteria. We've created a virtuous circle ecosystem. This is the core reactor of the farm. We gave food to our fish and they polluted the water. The polluted water is filtered then it arrives here in the bacteria. The bacteria digest the ammonia and transform it into nitrate. Ammonia is dangerous for fish while nitrate is not harmful for fish. It both allows the fish to keep living in the same water and it allows this water to be sent to the plants to feed them. The treated fish water flows in the gutters and is developing in the gutters. The plant roots absorb the nutrients especially the nitrates in the water then the water returns to the fish farm. Apart root vegetables such as carrots or potatoes, aquaponics permits almost any plant to grow. On the fish farm side, Felix chooses fountain salmon but the star of aquaponics remains the tilapia. The aspect we still have to work on to have a totally virtuous circle is our fish food. Our goal is to eliminate food from either industrial or wild fishing, eliminate fish meal and fish oil and use only 100% sustainable food. Aquaponics requires breeding without antibiotics which would destroy the bacteria and the biofilter. No pesticides either or chemicals to treat the plants otherwise the fish will die. A restrictive technique but 100% organic which still remains quite unknown as tuna farming does but for other reasons. Tuna, a 40 billion dollar market and the last great challenge of modern aquaculture. Because this great migrating fish refuses to breed in captivity farm raising it is a huge challenge. It's the last great challenge of marine aquaculture. At the Mercy Oceanographic Center the director, Fernando de la Gandara tells us about the difficulties of this tuna domestication. The first problem is that they spawn at 4 a.m. in the middle of the night so you have to visit the cages at night take the eggs on the surface and bring them here. We get the larvae and we have to feed the larvae with zooplankton a living food, a living prey. As copepods these are crustaceans which are the natural food of bluefin tuna in the wild. When they're about 20 days old we must feed them larvae of other fish because bluefin tuna is piscivorous so we need a large quantity of sea bream spawners to produce a lot of eggs and then we feed the sea bream larvae to the bluefin tuna. It's a real challenge but it's over. In the open sea there is no problem at all because they have no obstacles but here we have walls and the fish crash against them. That's a big killer so we have white bands on the walls so the fish can see there is a wall. Spain, the world's leading producer of farmed tuna has become a master and the reds are caught on migration routes. Juan Serrano the general manager of Balfego thinks back on this ancestral Mediterranean basin fishing practiced by the Phoenicians ages ago. We cast a net at sea at the level of a school of tuna then the boat will make a circle with the net around the school of tuna. It's a thousand feet in perimeter. Hundreds of young bluefin tuna are trapped in the net and they must be directed towards a giant pool about 175 feet in diameter. Divers open a window on each side of the net and gradually pull it up forcing the fish to flee out into the pool. All that's left now is to tow the tuna and their new home. Ten days at sea at very low speed but the hardest part remains. When the tuna arrives the priority is to teach it how to eat again because in the wild tuna is used to hunting live prey. We feed them dead sardines and mackerel. Normally when a tuna sees prey falling like this it doesn't eat it but in the wild curiosity pushes it to go and see what it is and gradually it gets into the habit of eating the dead fish. It seems the method is effective because every day the 16,000 balfego tuna consume 225 tons of sardines, anchovies and mackerel. Today is fishing day. Tony Lopez, only takes out the quantity of bluefin tuna necessary to fill his customers' orders. We select the fish we're going to kill according to their weight and the customer demand. We try to kill the fish as quickly as possible to avoid causing it any stress because this stress causes a degradation of the flesh and its quality. A shot or two from an underwater gun are enough to kill the tuna. They are then filled with air and brought to the surface. This tuna we caught and gutted weighs 575 pounds. Whole it would weigh about 650 pounds. The recovered tuna is already dead. It's emptied and shipped. Weighed, emptied and shipped to ensure perfect traceability, the bluefin tuna are exported for the most part to Japan in order to satisfy their enormous appetite for sushi and sashimi. The prices are decided according to the quality of the meat and can reach thousands of dollars for a single fish. The rest, in recent years, bluefin tuna has become a symbol of overfishing. However, today, the Atlantic stocks overexploited in the mid-1990s are doing better and Belphego promotes this improvement offering the general public a better understanding of this emblematic animal. How? By taking tourists to see the bluefin tuna. Watching these large predators swimming in their huge pool in pursuit of dead sardines, one wonders if these farmed fish do not long for the open sea. Maybe. For the past 10 years, wild trout, sea bass and wild tuna have been disappearing from fishmongers' stalls replaced by their domesticated equivalents. This has created a tremendous appetite for fish. In 2030, two-thirds of seafood consumption will come from aquaculture farms.