http://www.filterpro.co.uk for biohome filter media and other filtering equipment. Video explaining the needs and methods of care for dwarf cichlids from South America. The fish in this video are much smaller than many of the cichlids commonly kept in tropical fish tanks and most species of South American dwarf cichlids will not exceed 9cm (males).
Cichlids below 10cm are generally considered to be dwarf varieties.
Although dwarf cichlids are found in a variety of habitats throughout South America, generally speaking most will prefer pH below 7 and soft water to show best colouration and be most content. Bogwood, peat balls, almond leaves, oak leaves and alder cones are natural ways to reduce the pH and soften water in a home aquarium. All of these natural treatments may stain the water a light brown, which adds to the authentic look of an 'Amazon tank'.
Most of the South American dwarf cichlids will use caves to breed in but some (including blue ram) are classed as 'open spawners' and prefer to lay their eggs on curled up leaves e.g. almond or oak in an aquarium. Almond and oak leaves have natural anti fungal and anti bacterial properties which leach out into the water, protecting the eggs and help to acheive a better hatch rate.
A good dwarf cichlid aquarium set-up would generally include a sand substrate, bogwood and plants. Natural tankmates include corydoras, tetra species, small plec species (and angelfish or discus in a large tank). Whilst generally very peaceful fish, all dwarf cichlids will defend their eggs and fry from other tankmates so it is best to allow for an 'exclusion zone' around the breeding site when planning the number and type of other tankmates.
For cave spawners, bogwood which forms natural 'caves' is often used (as shown in this video) for egg laying as is coconut shell, small half ceramic plant pots on their side or other suitable artificial 'cave' features.
Tank bred fish will eat a wide range of foods including flake, pellets, frozen and live food. Wild caught fish will be picky at first so feeding on mostly live food will be essential, introducing prepared foods in the diet until the fish become comfortable accepting a wider range of foods.
All of the fish in this video were filmed in the tanks of my shop 'Tyne Valley Aquatics' but that is now closed. I work from home and my website if http://www.filterpro.co.uk
The 'balloon' varieties are generally bred in Asia and not a natural strain of fish (not my favorites by a long shot) and yes, I know I spelt borelli wrong - it should be borellii.
Feel free to post this video on forums, websites etc. if you think anyone may benefit from it and check out the hundreds more videos on my channel - all in playlists for easy viewing.
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Hello there, I'm Richard from Tyne Valley Aquatics and in this video
I'm going to talk about South American dwarf cichlids,
these little fellas behind me here.
Now there's more types of these than I could possibly go
into in a short video, but generally they're small, brightly coloured
cichlids which require slightly acidic conditions and soft water.
These ones here are of the Epistogramma species,
these ones are fire red.
Epistogramma agassizii, fire red, that's the male there.
And this little one here is the female.
The vast majority of South American cichlids,
the male, like this fella here,
is quite a bit bigger and more colourful than the female.
That's the male, that's the female there.
Much smaller.
There's another female down here.
And there's one I think is going to spawn in that little cave there.
That's another female. See how it's just got one single colour?
Some of the species have more colourful females, but not this one.
As I mentioned before,
the dwarf South American species tend to prefer pH less than seven,
ideally around about 6.5, lower for some,
especially the wild fish. They like it quite
soft. You can do that with bogwood, peat balls,
almond leaves, alder cones. There's numerous
natural ways to lower the pH.
The most important thing is a stable pH. It doesn't have to be
Perfectly 6.5, perfectly 6 or whatever,
as long as it's stable, that's the main thing.
They can live slightly outside the comfort zone.
This is a typical setup, apart from it hasn't got many plants on.
It's got one just up here,
and a suckered piece of bog wood stuck on the side.
Generally you would have sand in the bottom, you'd much prefer sand.
Bits of bog wood, you know,
things like this that you can get underneath, use as little caves.
All the dwarfs really love that.
As far as spawning goes, they like to either lay
their eggs on like a curled up leaf or some sort of cave.
This is actually a drilled coconut shell.
There's a male Epistogramma cacatuoides.
Orange just come out of there.
And there's the little female.
I think they're breeding in there.
They seem to be taking a lot of interest in it
and the male generally guards it.
Something like that is ideal for them.
That's another sort of South American dwarf cichlid.
Different species.
This is a blue ram.
It's either Papiliochromis or Microgeophagus.
Depending on which name you like to use.
Very bonny fish, don't get very big.
Peaceful in a tank, like the same sort
of conditions as the epistogrammers.
Sand on the bottom, low pH, hence the peat ball here.
Planted area, places to spawn, and good varied diet.
This is another form of blue ram.
This is a bred form called electric blue ram, for obvious reasons.
See, the colour on some of these fish is pretty awesome.
It gets more intense as they get bigger.
Most of the species of South American cichlids,
the dwarf ones, will live in with angels,
corys, tetras, generally pretty peaceful fish.
I mentioned diet before, they'll take a range of
flake, pellet, frozen food and live food.
We tend to feed ours basically a mixture of all sorts.
Although they do like frozen cyclops,
as they get bigger they'll take daphnia,
tubifex, they'll like pretty much anything. They're not too fussy.
If they are fussy, you can try them with live food,
especially if you're getting wild fish.
They take a while to wean onto prepared foods.
The water quality is an issue with these fish.
Any high ammonia or nitrite spikes
and they may well turn up their toes.
In this particular tank, we've got a moving bed filter,
which just ensures that there's never any ammonia
or nitrite in the tank,
even after a heavy feed or an introduction of new fish.
So a nice soft,
Low pH water that you'd have in an ordinary Amazonian tank,
good varied diet, lots of places
to hide, sand substrate, few plants and you're away.
Not very difficult to keep, make a very
attractive addition to your tank. Now when the fish are breeding,
they'll like to claim a little bit
of territory for their own, in this case
that particular shell,
anything going in or anywhere near that shell will be chased away.
They haven't got teeth, so it's not as if they're going
to tear any fins off any of your smaller fish,
but they will chase them away.
They will protect their fry.
When the fry hatch, you can either
feed them newly hatched brine shrimp,
some of the prepared fry foods,
or we've got frozen brine shrimp here in the shop.
They seem to do pretty well on that.
Some people feed them white worms and so on and such forth.
They seem to do very well on live food.
Once they get a little bit bigger, they'll start taking prepared food.
Here's a few of our fire reds feeding on live daphnia.
There's no mad rush to get to them.
I know the daphnia is going to be there for a while.
They really do seem to like eating it though.
So if and when you can get live food,
it's nice to give them that as a treat.
Or if you're getting them into tip-top breeding condition,
I would pretty much say these fellas are breeding condition already.
That's just a very brief introduction to South American dwarfs.
The last part of the video will just have
an example of a few of the types
that we have or have had recently in stock.