The BUDGET Gaming PC Build 2026!

Tech Care
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1 Video View·Nov 7, 2026
AI Generated·May contain errors
Video Summary
AI GeneratedThis guide details how to build a high-performance gaming PC for approximately $1,000. By strategically selecting components—such as opting for DDR4 memory to save costs—the build balances current gaming power with future upgradability, delivering a capable machine for both AAA titles and competitive esports.
Ladies and gentlemen, they said it couldn't be done
and yet here we are because in this budget gaming PC build
We're going to build a gaming PC for a smidge over one thousand dollars
I think it was like one thousand and twelve when I first did this in UK
It's just under a thousand pounds
or so and obviously there's a lot going on with PC gaming at the moment
It is seemingly getting more and more expensive
but I was so happy this morning when I kind of went through all
of these components and built the best possible gaming PC that we
Possibly could for this money
because actually I think this is gonna give you one heck of a
We're going to walk you through all
of the components that we have here and why they're
perfect for a build like this, how
to put it all together in the first place and then
at the end of the video we're going to show you
those all important gameplay benchmark
numbers so you can see for yourself exactly how this thing performs.
It is going to be awesome, I'm
so incredibly happy with everything that we've got, hopefully
everything is going to go to plan,
let's find out whether it does right after a short
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Down below.
So then, $1,000, 1,000 pounds, that's a lot of dosh.
How are we gonna make this work for this budget?
Well, actually, it all comes down
to just clever part selection, really,
and getting something that is gonna be very performant today
but also something you can upgrade in the future.
There's not actually many compromises with this,
which is awesome.
And I think the best place to start
is actually with our motherboard.
Now, I'm gonna start by saying this exact one,
annoyingly, is end of life,
but we've linked the one that you should buy
in the description down below.
information is that you're going for an Intel build here
and you're going for B760 so this
is going to give you 12th,
13th or 14th gen Intel CPUs which generally speaking are going
to be a lot more performant than the equivalent Ryzen 5000
that's even older than these chips.
And personally, I just wouldn't really want
to build a PC with that platform at the moment,
because even though this is also not really that upgradable,
you still got awesome CPUs
that you can put inside this that has way more
performance really than most people need for a
gaming PC anyway. And I imagine at this stage,
many of you are wondering why you've got to look
at an older generation motherboard and CPU anyway,
like why can't we just go for like an AM5 board
and be done with it? Well, realistically,
it all comes down to the price of RAM and DDR5 is still
$400, $450 for a 32-gig kit,
whereas if we look at DDR4 and an older generation motherboard,
then assuming you're okay with 16-gig,
you can actually buy decent kits for around about $105,
$110, which is awesome,
and it is what's going to unlock the system, if you like,
and make it that little bit more affordable.
Other things to bear in mind is the size of
the motherboard. You can go for a full-size board like this,
or you can go for a micro-ATX.
Micro ATX is usually cheaper but won't look quite
Quite as good down the bottom,
and obviously misses out on a tiny bit of I/O
down the bottom of the board.
And then the other thing,
beyond obviously basic CPU compatibility,
but B760 obviously is great for this generation
of Intel CPUs, is to get one that has Wi-Fi.
Personally, I think this is always useful,
Even if you don't use it, just because
if your internet ever goes out, you can just
tether to your phone, keep using it.
But obviously, if you are going to use Wi-Fi,
it's much more price efficient to kind of
buy a better board in the first place that has it,
rather than buy an external card and
then just have a weaker motherboard to boot.
As always the best place to start constructing
our PC is actually on top of the box so we're
going to put all of the motherboard components in now.
Don't forget because this is Intel as well
in order to install the CPU cooler we do need
to prep this but we'll do that in just a second but
for now we just want to open up this slot here
which is where the CPU is going to go. Obviously
memory goes here SSD is going to go under this little heatsink
and then you've got all of these headers
around the motherboard that you will be plugging into the case,
plugging into external devices.
It's very normal for a build, you won't use most of them,
you'll probably use like 20-25%.
That's okay, but obviously it gives you expandability
for future things like more fans or like RGB hubs, things like that.
But we're probably not going to really be using those today.
So once you've got your socket ready, you can just open this up.
Please be careful and don't touch any
of these pins or you're in for a world of pain.
Again, quite literally, but then also your PC won't work.
So it's mental pain.
Oh, and then you can go to the best looking component that we have here
in this Intel sample that they sent me a few years ago.
Your box will look nicer than this.
It is the Intel 14400F.
This is a 10 core.
So it's six efficient cores.
No, it's six performance cores and then four efficient cores,
which actually makes it very good for general multitasking.
It's an awesome gaming CPU, but I will say if you've kind of got like.
$1100 or £1100 to spend on a gaming PC
then you would be better off going for a
14600K which is a really powerful Intel gaming CPU. It's better for
multitasking, better for gaming
by like 10-15% depending on the title. It's just
obviously a fair bit more expensive.
This is about £160 or so, that's about
£240. Just make sure you do have
a decent cooler like the one we're using in order
to maintain the extra heat if you do go down that route.
But now that that is in and secure we can move on to our
Our SSD and our RAM, obviously
these are the two components that are the most inflated.
Graphics cards cost a little bit more as well,
but I'd say compared to this rig about a year
and a half ago, you're probably looking at maybe $100,
£100 price premium because some
of the other components have come down.
These have gone up, but then you will
also have to make do with only 16GB of RAM rather
than 32GB.
That's arguably the main compromise, but obviously,
again, if you've got an extra $100 or so,
you could just buy two kits
of these or you could potentially just look at getting a 32GB
kit in the first place which is going to be just over $200
or so which is still a lot less than if
you went for DDR5 but as we've seen many many times
this is subject to change it's all over
the place so sometimes I think a DDR5 system
is going to make more sense but in this instance it
definitely looks like DDR4 is going to save you some money.
But we've got two sticks here these
are Corsair Vengeance but like Silicon Power
in the states are probably a good place to go for
For good value memory,
But you just want to carefully line these up with the slots.
And you'll notice we haven't put them next to each other.
We've not gone nearest the CPU.
You want to use slot two and slot four for optimal performance.
Please don't put them next to each other unless you've got four DIMMs.
Then you're going to want to grab a smaller screwdriver for this,
Phillips crosshead, and just take off
this little heat sink on the top of the board.
More modern ones are completely tallest these days,
but, you know, this isn't exactly a problem.
And just take it off.
Obviously, I am aware that the
Newer motherboard that we're recommending
is going to be slightly different to this,
but the principle is exactly the same.
But I assure you, you should not be struggling with it.
Then we're going to grab our SSD.
And for a budget PC, this is probably the best all-in option.
It's a Terabyte UD90 from Silicon Power.
Pretty consistent in terms of price as well.
But obviously, this has also gone up.
So this is getting on for $150 now, which is incredibly sad.
But just grab the catch on this.
And it will secure the whole thing into place.
Grab the heat sink, remove the little bit of peel
that you have on this,
but obviously I've used this board before.
And then just drop that back on,
and then secure it down into place.
So as you can clearly see, we are getting there.
Next step is going to be to install our CPU liquid cooler.
habit, our CPU cooler. This is an air cooler.
This is from Montech, probably the best value one
you can get. This is the NX600,
and this goes to show that if you want decent performance,
you don't have to spend crazy amounts
of money to get there. It's around about $30,
like 28 pounds, something like that.
But you will see that actually this is a massive cooler,
and this is why I say if you did go for that kind of 14600K,
which has a much higher TDP,
which means it uses more power,
you're going to need to obviously have a decent cooler to
get there. You won't get one in the box like you should
with the 14400F. But either way,
This is going to be much cooler, much quieter,
and just give you a better PC with more longevity
and more comfort.
All you've got to do is take those fans off.
They literally just pull undone.
Then you want to grab this little piece.
It's for Intel, not for AMD systems.
And this literally just pokes through the back.
You've got these four holes here.
It literally just goes on top.
You should now see that you have these silver standoffs poking through.
This is what we're going to tap into,
which is going to secure that cooler so it doesn't
fall off.
When we obviously put this in our case,
we're going to need some screws.
There's me frantically looking around there for what's next.
And whilst I like the fact
that they make it very easy by color coding it,
it does mean that sometimes you can actually see these blue bits
once it's all built, which is a little bit annoying.
I think the AMD system is better
because they're black standoffs, but it's very easy.
You just want to grab these plastic bits,
put them on top just like that.
Then you want to grab these bars and place them over the top.
Then you just want to grab the silver screws
that came in that Intel bag and get it secure.
So you can then pick up the thermal compound that comes in the bag.
I know it's big, it's scary, but I promise as long
as you put it on you can't really go too far wrong.
Because this is quite a long CPU,
I'm just going to put a little line down there like that.
And then we're going to allow
the cooler itself to do the spreading for us.
So just whack that on,
then grab your screwdriver and I'd say like a third tension on the top.
Then you can move to the bottom and do two thirds
and then kind of finish up just by going top, bottom, top, bottom.
Once that's complete, you're then going to want to put those fans on.
Do make sure that they are blowing the right way though,
or you're going to be very, very sad.
So with the cable facing downwards,
let's just lay this over the top, just like that.
Then we just want to do the same loosely with this top fan,
just using those hangers to clip it into position.
And then you will end up with one cable
and you want to find where it says CPU
and just place that four pin fan cable over the header.
Once you've done that and kind of tucked your cable
so it's nice and neat, remember not
to pick up your cooler by the fans,
but assuming it's in properly, it should be okay to pick
it up by the cooler itself.
And there, look, you've got
a massive heat sink attached to a motherboard.
And this is most of what a gaming PC is,
obviously all we need to do is plug in our graphics
card, get everything wired up, and in theory, that'll work.
But of course, if we left it hanging around on this box,
it would start to smell, and it wouldn't look very good.
So let's move on to the bit
that's gonna get me some criticism.
Oh, PC-centric, you're so bloody boring.
Well, okay, I know I only used this case a few weeks ago,
but this is literally perfect for this build.
This is from NZXT, it's called the S50 RGB,
and it's about $50.
In fact, it's actually gone down in price
since we last used it.
You can tell it's not the most expensive case
in the world, but it's much, much better
It's better than pretty much all the other
$50 cases I've used in years.
It's just this bit in the back
that feels a little bit cheap, but that's it.
Really, really happy with it.
And you do also get three fans as standard.
So it looks good and it is genuinely affordable.
Obviously, if you do go for a micro ATX motherboard,
again, you are gonna have to move some of these standoffs
a little bit to the end position
and your board will end about here
rather than down the bottom.
So if you can find a B760 board at a good price, that's.
Full size, that will look better,
but it's certainly not a problem if you can't.
So let's lay this down, then we'll pick up our motherboard,
and again, if you're using Micro ATX,
you've gotta move these standoffs,
but because we've got a full size board, we don't.
And we literally just wanna grab it,
position it over the central hole here.
I know it's a bit hard to see,
but then it will kinda catch it into position,
and then you just need to screw it down
by putting the screws through those standoffs.
If you're wondering where the screws are,
they come in the case in this white box.
Oh, and this is going to make some horrible noises
as I've dropped some screws, but they
will fall out as soon as I hopefully take this panel off.
You can see you've got ventilation
here as well. It should be nice and cool and quiet. There you go.
I knew it.
Let's pop that to one side,
and then you should see that it's a bit bare bones,
but as long as you're gonna use cable ties
that do come provided,
you can get something nice and neat and tidy
just by using these tie-down points.
You have all of these cables here.
So we've got USB Type-C, nice to see it on a $50 case.
USB 3, RGB and fan connection, obviously,
for that fan frame.
And then you can also daisy chain other RGB into it,
so everything lines up.
And then you've got HD audio
and a single front panel connection.
Well, I think that's everything.
So let's do our thing, shall we?
USB-C, not reversible, goes here, just above that look.
We've got USB 3, down the bottom,
and the most important one, if you don't do this,
your system is not going to work.
This was the problem I had with my first ever PC build.
I hadn't done this properly.
Front panel connection just goes here at the bottom right.
We've got some addressable RGB here at the bottom left.
Next to that, you've got your fan connection.
And then finally, all the way at the bottom left,
we've got HD audio that is located just here.
The only thing really that we need to do now is just to take off
these two PCIe slot covers that's going to mean that our graphics card
will actually sit inside here and we have something to screw onto
and of course that means introducing the graphics card that we're going
to use and this has been the budget-friendly champ really
for a couple of years now this is the B570.
From Intel, it's an ARC GPU.
Drivers on this have been getting better and better,
so I don't really think you're going
to have any real issues. It's nice as well that if you did
want to do things a little bit differently,
you could actually do this as a SteamOS build,
which is going to be more efficient on RAM.
So if you're finding that you're wanting to play
certain games, really high-end settings,
and you've got the horsepower but not the RAM,
that would actually save yourself a bit of allocation,
or you could use the Xbox mode
on Windows to save yourself like a gig or so of RAM,
but we'll have a look at that a little bit
a bit later. In terms of VRAM, this has 10 gig which actually makes
It makes it a lot more suitable for gaming
than a lot of the competition.
But if you look at something like the 5050, 5060,
6600 XT eight gig,
whilst those may well be more performant in certain titles,
they've all got eight gig of VRAM
and they're all more expensive pretty much,
which is frankly ludicrous.
So this is almost certainly gonna be your best bet.
And it should.
Just slot into place really nice and easily
and you can do this facing downwards.
It's probably a little bit easier but just for the camera look.
We're going to push that in until it clicks.
Grab a couple of screws and then just secure that down.
And other than the power supply look, this PC is done.
Which means we just need to grab our power supply.
This is the one I was looking for
the other day. I finally found it.
This is the MSI MAG A650BN. It's a 650 watt power supply,
no frills, but in my experience tends to work very, very well.
And whilst it isn't modular,
which means all of the cables are pre-attached,
can get in your way because there's not actually
that many cables in the first place.
It doesn't really tend to be a problem like it is on higher
wattage units. Power supply is going to go down the bottom.
It does need to breathe. Please don't
Please don't kind of accidentally put it
the wrong way, but as long as you're
As long as your case does breathe from the bottom,
it's pretty straight forward because you just wanna
move some of these cables out of the way
and it should just slot in like this.
A few more hex screws just to get this secure.
Then we can give this a spin round
and show you at home what cables we're dealing with.
So ATX, large one, can't miss it.
Then you've got a fan cable, Molex, SATA,
we don't need any of that today.
But you are going to need your PCIe for your graphics card
and then also a CPU connection.
It does say CPU, they're all labeled
so it's pretty easy to do this.
But again, just make sure that you're getting
all of the cables in the right places to make things easier.
CPU can go there, ATX can go in this one.
Graphics can come underneath and then all
of these cables you can kind of just stuff into a bit of a ball
But those will just park down the bottom out of sight out of mind
Give it spin and we've got loads of room here today,
which is nice to plug our CPU in at the top
Don't worry if you've got two connections that's only gonna matter
for serious overclocking on really beefy chips
So not a problem there ATX is this massive one look
Just here, again, make sure everything clicks into place.
You don't want any loose connections.
Then finally, you can grab our PCIe for a graphics card.
And this should just plug in like that.
Give it a bit of a tidy.
And then, ladies and gentlemen,
I think that was probably the quickest gaming PC
we've built in bloody ages.
It was all very, very easy and straightforward.
Haven't done any cable management whatsoever,
but just a couple of cable ties.
Look, this you can kind of park in the side.
And yeah, with a couple of cable ties,
that will be glorious, but.
I think it looks great, but what's more important
is whether it looks great on screen.
Should we turn it on?
And it better work because I need a Wii.
I'm not desperate, but I don't want to make a mess.
This is an overkill monitor, by the way.
This is a 4K OLED.
You're going to see the full review of this.
You can find it in the top right corner of your screen.
But realistically, I think a 1440p display would be perfect for this.
But importantly, remembering to plug our DisplayPort
or HDMI cable into the graphics card,
not into the motherboard because that's not going to work.
We should be ready to go.
Just need to find the button.
Give it a push and assuming we've got power
and it's plugged in properly we should get some LEDs
but we are not out of the woods just yet until obviously we have
a booting PC. But I mean can
you see why I really like the look of this?
I mean the graphics card's got some RGB which is nice but
I just think for a more affordable gaming PC
this pretty much has everything really that you need.
It's got plenty of upgrade routes as well because if you did
Want to put in like an i7 at a later date,
then you absolutely could with this, or a more powerful i5.
But as long as you get something on screen
that says something along the lines of a new CPU, memory change,
something like that, it means you should be golden.
Once your PC restarts, just mash that delete key
and you should get into the BIOS.
It's going to look a little bit different if you go
for that Gigabyte board located down below.
But all you want to do is just make sure we have
our XMP profile enabled.
This is going to make sure that our memory is running
at its full rated speed rather than the default of 2666.
There we go into fan info and I'm just going to tune these fans
a little bit so that they only ramp up when they actually need to.
And then finally I just want to make sure that secure boot
is enabled just so if we want to play games like Battlefield
for instance it is going to work but otherwise you just want to save
and exit if it doesn't boot properly it might just be because
the overclock on the memory hasn't worked properly so just kind
of don't panic it will usually tell you this after a few minutes
or so but otherwise you can reset the CMOS and then either try
a different speed or leave it at the default but for
I don't know, 98% of the PCs I build I don't have any problems
to be honest with you.
The only other thing to mention is that if you're
not going for a motherboard that was brought out
after these CPUs, you might need to do a BIOS update.
In order for it to recognize the CPU.
But to be honest with you, because these 14 series CPUs are so old now.
Well, they're 2024 or 2023, so they're not that old.
But relatively speaking,
I think you're quite unlikely to run across
a motherboard that would have problems.
But it's always worth checking.
The one that we've linked down below does actually
or it has come out after those chips.
So you really shouldn't have a problem.
Only other thing, of course, you need
to do is get a version of Windows on it.
It's really simple.
Grab a USB flash drive and just follow the instructions
that we have in the top right corner of your screen.
This will show you really easily how to get into Windows.
But let me just get some games on this and we're gonna get gaming
and I can go to the toilet now
But of course then ladies and gentlemen,
the proof is very much going to be in the pudding
So now comes the time to actually see how this beautiful thing
will actually perform and I've got to say it has come out
Really really nicely. I think it looks awesome.
I mean the point is you know, it is a shame obviously $1,000
What used to get you a luxury gaming PC
is now like a very normal gaming PC.
But I think as we're going to show,
the performance of this is still gonna be excellent
and you get something that genuinely does look awesome,
does look great, and something that you can obviously
fill up and expand over the next decade or so
without swapping the power supply, swapping the case,
swapping the cooler, it's pretty much all good to go.
But are we?
Let's find out.
And it would be really easy, wouldn't it,
to start off with a game that was incredibly
easy to drive.
But I actually want to start off with probably
the hardest one that we have in our library,
which is this.
It's right at the start of the game, so no spoilers.
I'm next up to play this, I've just finished
my last one, which is awesome.
This of course is Control Resonant.
And as you can see, we're getting a decent frame rate,
but not something I would say
is, you know, like typical PC gaming bliss,
really, because we're getting about...
45 to 60 FPS so if you're going to play
this with variable refresh rate this is at 1440p
medium settings with upscaling by the way.
If you're playing this with a controller and variable
refresh rate then obviously you're going to have a great time
but I think we can do a little bit
better but obviously this is a game that there's going
to be quite a lot of scaling really between
something.
It's gonna be quite, well, definitely not easy,
but easier to drive, obviously all the way up
to like your RTX 5090, full ray tracing,
everything really is gonna be in this game.
So let's actually see what we can do.
So come over to graphics.
We are using FSR, of course this is an Intel graphics card.
And we've got this set to quality,
so straight away we can get a little bit of extra FPS
just by setting this to balanced.
And it's a little bit of a weird thing actually
with the ARC graphics cards,
that if you change them between 1080p and 1440,
you don't always get like a massive performance difference
Like you might expect, which is strange.
Strange, but hey, it is what it is, essentially.
You can see that this definitely helps,
so this is the way I would choose to play.
If you're kind of sat,
A little bit further back then you're not really going
to notice that the resolution isn't as sharp
but if you are going to get really close to the screen
then you can now notice that you know it
looks absolutely fine but it's certainly not like 4k quality
or anything like that but obviously our
frame rate is now looking at a minimum of about 45 50 fps
which is a lot lot better and personally
would be the way I would choose to play.
But let's see what happens if we go and actually set this
from medium to low. Does that make that much difference?
Surprisingly not actually that's
So that's given us maybe a couple of extra
This is going to be the worst case scenario really,
so I wanted to get this out of the
way.
You can see our GPU is being utilised by 100%,
CPU around about 60 or so, so we're not being
bottlenecked by that.
And obviously this goes to show that even
if you are going to play like the latest games,
you can absolutely still play it even
on the entry level card that is the Arc V570.
Does it show us how much VRAM we're using by the way?
Yes it does.
We're using 5.6 out of 9.8.
So we're not actually.
We wouldn't have a problem with an 8GB card here,
but it's always nice to have a little bit of headroom.
It's because there are plenty of games where you will.
Let's see what happens if we really try
to maximize our FPS though,
as what you're seeing now is currently running at 1080p,
but we have upped the FSR upscaling to quality.
And you can see we're now getting about 10 FPS more.
So about what, 60 to 75 frames a second or so.
Again, you're always gonna get a fair bit of variance,
but if this is like the stress test,
the worst case scenario really for this rig,
then it's absolutely showing
that this is gonna be absolutely fine.
You'll be able to play your favorite games,
but if you do want the best performance,
obviously you are going to have to spend a little bit more money
to get a faster GPU.
Oh, and then ladies and gentlemen,
sometimes you can't write this.
I've just spent the last half an hour.
Testing this rig in a load of other games
and the frame rate was like dropping all over the place.
It was really low.
I was trying to put on a brave face,
but I'm thinking something's not right here.
And then it turns out it was because
the keyboard I was using before.
I hate it with a passion.
And when I was pressing Alt F4,
it wasn't actually closing the games down properly
and Control Resonant had been open the whole time,
grabbing my GPU, grabbing my memory.
And was ruining everything.
So, fortunately, I'm very pleased
to say we can now proceed with our second game.
You've missed the whole, like, 007 entry that I did before.
Anyway, you can imagine it.
You can see this is 007 First Light.
And this is a game that scales quite well across quite
a wide range of hardware, actually.
If you want to turn up all the settings,
it's even got path tracing now.
It's very difficult to run, even on a 5090.
But as you can see here, this is running pretty much as I'd want it to.
I'd basically be aiming for 60 FPS average.
I don't mind if it goes below that a little bit
as long as I've got a variable refresh rate.
But generally speaking, as long
as we're kind of getting a nice smooth frame rate
where if you did want to use it with a controller
or a mouse and keyboard, you're going to have a great time essentially.
And as you can see, it is exactly that.
It's really nice and smooth.
We obviously are going to see a little bit of variance
when you get into like heavier areas and things like that.
But I wouldn't say it's anything really that would cause you a concern
as long as you were using a monitor or a TV
It did have VRR.
I don't know the keyboard controls.
I've always been rubbish at this, I've gotta say.
This is also running at the medium preset by the way.
Let's have a look at those options before
we get knocked out. So as I say it's medium on everything
but then we've got FSR set to quality.
So yes this is why it actually looks pretty good.
We've not really got any pixelation or anything
like that. Again you can turn this down to 1080p if you want
but I think realistically most people
buying a new PC you are going to be looking at Quad HD.
Let's jump across quickly because I've
now changed this to 1080p
and I just want to give you some more numbers. That has increased it a
A little bit actually, we're now looking at about 73, 76 FPS.
For one of the latest AAA titles that, well,
it came out at the end of last year, didn't it?
But I played it this year.
No, it did come out this year.
I think this is really impressive, and this does go to show that, okay,
maybe you're not going to get the highest
frame rate possible in Control,
but pretty much everything else, to be honest with you,
I'd like to think you're going to have a very, very good time with.
Just don't get punched in the back of the head like, poor James here.
And look, with this keyboard,
I can press Alt and F4 and it closes the game.
But right now, ladies and gentlemen,
let's now move on to the first of our multiplayer titles,
because we're not going for boring single player games.
I want to show you that if you are looking to build a PC
for a thousand dollars, you can get something
that is going to allow you to excel
when it comes to all of your multiplayer needs.
And you can see that that is a sky high frame rate.
And for context, when I ran this,
I ran about like 20 minutes ago
when we also had Control open in the background,
I didn't realize.
We're getting like 50.
I don't think we're supposed to be getting 50 FPS.
Something is very wrong.
So yes, you can see as long as you are going to use
that max FPS unlimited launch option in Steam,
you are going to get a much higher frame rate.
So realistically, you're looking for what,
like 165 to 240 FPS for like the absolute best experience
really, or at least what you could realistically expect
from a PC at this kind of price point and budget.
And it's nice as well because you can of course
get plenty of monitors that are 1080p high refresh rate
for relatively little money these days,
About $200 or so, 200 pounds will get you
a really nice, fast IPS monitor, which is cool.
If you did want to step up to 1440p,
then obviously your frame rate is going to go down,
but it's also worth bearing in mind
that obviously the CPU we have here,
it's not the absolute fastest,
so if you were gonna go for that i5-14600K,
you'd potentially get high frame rates in certain games,
but realistically, the bottleneck in this system,
it's gonna vary from game to game.
I think at the moment, actually, is the CPU.
You can see your GPU usage is looking at about 75 FPS.
Or 75%, I should say.
But when we turn this down to, or turn this up to 1440,
I think that means that the frame rate's
not going to change all that much.
But I mean, why talk about it?
Let's now set this to 1440p.
We'll come out of this, and has that made a difference?
Yes, we have dropped to around about 165 FPS,
but I mean, that's still more than enough,
and more really than you'd expect from a system like this.
Again, this is the cheapest graphics cards
you can realistically buy,
or the cheapest decent one you can buy in 2026,
and at 1440p, high settings,
you're still able to get around about 170 frames a second,
which I think is awesome,
and this really is just gonna allow you
to have the best of both worlds.
If you wanna use your PC for work as well,
and you've got a nice high-res screen,
but then you wanna play multiplayer games as well,
Bear in mind this is without any upscaling as well,
you know, it just it gives you plenty of flexibility.
The RAM usage might be a little bit of a compromise if you want to,
you know, run loads of applications and stay on the side.
But we're certainly not going to worry about noise levels
or temperatures because, what is that, 45 degrees on the CPU?
Barely anything. GPU is not actually telling us,
but I think it's just bugged out and then noise levels.
I mean, that is ridiculous.
That is the quietest PC I've built basically ever.
What is the GPU running at?
59 degrees, 58 degrees, so plenty of airflow in this case.
You don't need to worry about adding extra fans.
But you know what? I don't think 165 FPS is enough.
How about we move on to a game where we can get even more?
We've saved the best till last.
And this is 1440p,
but this is also running at high settings, two times MSAA.
This is some Valorant, and as you can see,
our frame rate's almost 300, which is pretty insane.
This is definitely the sort of esports title
where obviously you are looking to get a very high frame rate
and again, if you pair it with a high refresh monitor,
you just are gonna have
an absolutely fantastic gaming experience.
But this is definitely a game
That will kind of use everything that you have in your PC
and put it to good use and you've got no excuse for being bad
I mean my excuse is that I'm talking to the camera
at the same time as playing which is never great
But I think streamers
You know, they've been doing this for years.
I just lack that talent.
No wait, hang on a minute.
I think that actually the FPS you were seeing
was the 4K FPS.
I knew something was playing up with the capture card here.
Because look, I've just turned this all the way up to 4K
and the frame rate has basically stayed exactly the same,
about 250 to 300 FPS.
So there we go, I was thinking I was gonna turn it down
to 1080p, but clearly, even if you have like a really
high resolution monitor and you wanna play Valorant,
you're not gonna have.
Any issues with this setup.
It has actually got rid of that stutter that I was getting before.
Something weird with the capture card.
But yes, you can see clearly no excuse for not being a good player
other than lack of talent, which I definitely possess.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on this though.
What do you make of our system?
What do you make of our $1,000 gaming PC?
If you do want to check out current pricing on this,
you can find it linked down below to all of the parts.
But the thing I was going to say is that
if you do spend just a little bit more money,
then you will obviously be able to get quite a bit more out of it.
So that i5.
14600K is definitely going to go a long way
and then maybe like a B580 rather than a B570.
But realistically, I think it's...
You know, if you could step it up
to maybe fifteen hundred dollars, fifteen hundred pounds,
that's going to give you quite a bit of a better PC.
But the whole point of this was to show you
that you absolutely don't have to, don't be too put off by the fact
that, oh, it's only got 16 gig of RAM or it's only got 10 gig of VRAM.
This is still a very, very capable machine.
It is just in those latest AAA games where you got loads of ray
tracing effects and things like that that are pre baked into the game.
That's maybe when you're going to run into more of an issue.
But for what most people are going to use
their gaming PC for, this thing is awesome.
And while you're
down there,
let's get serious with
the Corsair Warthog.
This PC case ditches the boring rectangle for something truly exciting.
But thank you guys
so much
for watching,
we'll catch you
in the next one.
