HOW TO FIX LOOSE CREAKY AND SQUEAKY STAIRS #howto #stairs #repair #diy

Repair house
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Nov 4, 2026
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Hello welcome back to the Home Improvements Channel UK
and on today's episode we're going
to be showing you guys at home a couple
of methods how to fix the annoying squeaky stair
and just remember if you guys are enjoying
these videos please hit the like and subscribe button
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from us back to the video. A couple of
methods i'm going to show you one
is to water down some PVA the other is to fix the nose of
close with the stair down if you haven't got access
to underneath your staircase.
Right for the first method,
the PVA which you're going to be pouring down the back edge.
That crack there, that's one of the ones that makes noise.
So we're going to grab some PVA and you want a little pot.
Ta-da!
You want yourself a brush of some sort and then some water.
Right, so basically this method,
what we're doing is, we're taking your standard PVA,
it ain't got to be this mate,
it can be any old make you like, and the reason we've got
water is we're going to be watering it down so it's super thin,
so that it can work its
way down into your step, so that when it sets,
it glues it all back together again.
If you just pour PVA down and try brushing it in,
nothing's going to happen, it's just
going to sit on top and go rotten on it.
Starting off with about a 50-50 mix, so half and half,
so bang some glue in your little pot.
What?
Delicious.
Now get yourself some water and then you can
use a stick if you want but you're going
to need a brush so you might as well just use it.
And we're just going to... This takes a little bit
of time. Work it in there. You're going to think
that it's not mixing and then all of a sudden...
It's still not mixed
so just mix it well yeah just make sure it's super watered down
because you see how thick it is you're never going
to get that in that gap this is why we
want it super watery right
so that's what you're looking for see how watery that glue is now
and then that gap that we
were talking about earlier just just go a bit mental with it.
Yeah as long as underneath is blocked just remember
that if you've got an open staircase underneath
make sure it's clear because this will run through
and then all we're using the brush to do
is to push it around into that gap.
So now because it's so watery that's running down the back
and then once it sets it should glue that riser back to this tread.
So you poured your glue down
the back and you've brushed it all in as much as you can get in there.
One extra little tip for
for this first method.
If your riser is super loose and there's a big gap
and you can't get access from underneath the staircase like here,
this is completely bolted in, get yourself a little pilot bit
and a drill and you're going to drill a little pilot hole.
You start off square and then you come back up
and you go in at a steep angle, probably like 45 degrees.
You're trying to hit this and you've only got that much wood.
Let's go.
If you're doing it, get yourself a countersink and countersink that.
We're not going to do that now
because we don't actually need to do this.
We're just showing you.
Put your screw in and then you're just going to screw up.
What it's going to do is grab that back bolt
and it's going to pull it in tight
and then run your glue in once you've pulled that riser back in.
And you'll end up with that.
So you've got nothing there.
It's not going to affect anything.
You can still put your carpet or whatever you're putting down over it.
It's no drama.
And then just leave it for...
All right, 24 hours to fully go off and then it should be golden.
Step two, drills and screws.
Method two is going to be using some screws,
a pilot bit, a screw, dig through your great
grandad's shed and find the crappiest tape measure you possibly can
and a little pencil.
And what we're going to be doing
is fixing the tread back onto the riser.
So first step we'll take you through that now.
Your first job is going to be determining how
deep your nose is and where this riser is in the in the tread.
So you just grab your tape measure,
plonk it underneath
and if you look above you'll see we've got a 20 mil nose there.
So what you want to do is add say another 10 mil onto
that because you want to be
in the middle of it
and you measure 30 mil from the front of that nose like this.
You can do this with an adjustable square or whatever.
And you're just gonna put a little mark like that.
and that is where we're going to pile up
and put our screws so this sort of screw don't come
through here in it yeah that gives you
the measurement to get hit this piece of wood
i recommend sort of around five along the top
if you're doing this method the reason this
can become squeaky here is because
these are like rebated into the tread so it sits inside
so if you imagine that's this underneath it's got
a little rebate in it and that
So you should end up with some pilot holes like
this and just remember to size the pilot
bit to your screws and then what you want
to do is just grab yourself a counter sink
bit, counter sink the tops,
all that's going to do is stop you
from having a lip.
thread from the screw head
so the screw is going to sit directly perfectly flat in the
thread so it won't cause you any problems stops it from splitting
so does the pilot bit you could
just bang a screw through this but chances
are you're going to split the wood off so don't do
that this is what you're looking
for and to make sure you've done your measurements you just peek
under that nose and make sure you haven't come through
or anything like that that's how you
know you've gone too far forward and measured it right
so we're going to grab some screws
and then we're going to put them
in and we're going to show you the end result
So you're going to have your three screws in and all you're going
to do is send them the rest of the way on.
Don't go mental with this. You only want to just clamp it down.
You ain't got to go crazy.
You don't have to use an impact, you can use a combi.
And that's what you should be left with, some nice flush,
nothing's protruding, nothing's split, the nose is still in one place.
Those stupid metal brackets going from here to there.
Those L brackets are terrible, they make your carpet look rough.
If you can avoid them, avoid them.
So, quick little recap of what we've done.
So we've warmed down some PVA,
we've poured it down the back of the tread.
We've put a screw in the rear of the tread at 45
or maybe even a bit steeper of an angle
and grabbed that rear riser and pulled it in tight.
And we've pre-drilled the nose,
countersink it and put some screws in the nose into the next riser.
So that's a couple of methods.
You can use these together.
You don't need to use them individually.
So if you've got a really bad step and you think, oh, that bit's gone,
there's no problem with you using it all.
you can and if you can get underneath
then obviously there's even more options maybe
we'll do that in another video in the future
but for now from the top with no access you can do
this you can drill at an angle
and pull that riser back in and you can run water down PVA
or wood glue down the back let it set for a day
and then you're all golden
And that's a wrap from the Home Improvements Channel UK!
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