Left Hand Baby Bear Crochet Beanie Free Pattern and Tutorial ~ Fun and Easy Baby Shower Gift Pattern

Hey everyone, it's Deja from crocheteverafter.com. Today is a new free pattern workshop and this is the Baby Bear Beanie. So this is sized for newborns or um probably like zero to three months. It's about a 15 inch circumference. I will tell you how you can make it bigger so it will last a little longer but this is a cute little 3D bear ear. Beanie that would look so cute in any baby shower gift basket. So we're using medium worsted weight yarn, a 6mm USJ hook, and a little bit of polyfill. If you don't have polyfill, you can use scrap yarn. I'll explain that later. And we'll get started. So download the link, or download the pattern in the link below, and we will get started. All right, so to get started, we're going to use Savannah's Choice. From Lion Brand, I like Savannah's Choice for acrylic because it's pretty soft, it's nice and washable, and it comes in a lot of different colors. The colors change a lot with this brand as well, so if you don't find the exact color, which was Taupe, you'll find something that's very similar to it, so it's a good... It's a good brand, I really like the actual yarn, so it holds up really well. I have some projects from years and years ago and it still looks really good. So we are going to start with Magic Adjustable Loop, favorite thing for beanies because it creates a completely closed hole that you don't see anything through on the top, and this is going to be the top of the beanie. So we're going to take our yarn in our hands. The easiest way for me to explain the Magic Adjustable Loop is to kind of put your tail on the bottom, hold the yarn in your hand, and take the hand that's holding the loop and just turn it down so it crosses over. And then grab that cross and insert your hook through that loop you just made. Then you're going to pull up the loop that's attached to your working yarn. Pull that up and kind of just pull everything close together and tight. And you can either slip stitch, just pull it through and tighten it down to lock it in, and then you don't have to worry about losing your loop. Or you can just start doing your first instruction, which is a chain three. So the chain three is going to count as a double crochet. So I'm going to go ahead and do three chains. So yarn over, turn your hook down, pull through. Three of those, and then we're going to do eleven more double crochets. Let me adjust my light. Alright, so we're going to keep your, make sure you keep this kind of pretzel twist to your yarn. Don't let this tail fall out. You can close your hole down a little bit if you want that a little longer so it's not falling out. Just pull on it and it'll close your hole down. Then we're going to do eleven double crochets into this loop. So we yarn over, insert our hook into that big loop. Grab our yarn. So you notice I just kind of lay it over the top. There's no like wrapping or doing anything crazy. Just lay it right over the top and turn your hook a little to grab it and then pull it up. Kind of adjust everything as you're going because you want to keep your stitches close to one another so they stay a consistent size. So we yarn over and we pull through the first two, then yarn over and pull through the second two. Our first double crochet is made. I'm going to do another 10 of those. So yarn over, insert through the loop, Lay over your yarn. You'll see that it kind of just does it on its own as you work. Pull up a loop. I always work off at a 45 degree angle. I point down and pull through the first two. That way my stitches stay the same size as my shaft, and then I get stitches that are all the same height. And reach through, pull up. If I make my double crochet really far out like this, if I just start double crocheting where I'm at then I get this double crochet that's way over there and I pull it over and you'll see that it's a little bit taller and looser than my others. So I want to keep them close to one another on the loop even though my loop is huge. I can close it down a little if I want because I'm definitely not going to need that much. And we have four. So if you're new to crocheting and you're not sure how to count your stitches, double crochets are easy to count because they have this gigantic post that you can kind of pull apart and you can see each one. So the chain three counts as a stitch and each post counts as a stitch, but you can also turn your work and count the top of the stitches which look like the letter V So we have one. Don't count the one on your loop, that's just a working loop. We have one, two, three, and then four is the top of the chain three. Let's do another eight, and then we will join to do our next round. Here's my twelve. 12 double crochet, didn't need that, and now we have kind of a rainbow, but we're going to turn that into a circle with a completely closed hole by grabbing our tail, and then I just grab the very last stitch I made, I grab it down by where the loop is to hold it, and then just pull it closed. Keep pulling and pulling until it's completely closed and our circle joins up. Don't worry if it comes open while you're working, once you weave it in it's going to stay closed, so as you're working this is probably going to come a little open. Just pull it again and it will close down. So we're going to join with a slip stitch in the top of our chain 3. So I know where it's at because I'm used to it, but if you don't, the first one might be a little small, but here's my first chain, second chain, third chain. Another thing you can do if it's really hard to see is count backwards. Count your Vs. You have 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12. So that 12th is my very first, and that's where I want to join my slip stitch. So I insert my hook under, yarn over. Again, it's like a layover. It's not like wrapping around a bunch. Just lay it over the top, pull it down, pull it through, and then pull it through the loop on your hook. So that is my very first round. You'll see my little hole already opened up a little bit, but I can just pull on that and it will close up. Now for the round two, what we're going to do is a tall chain. So I like to do tall chains because it masks the chain three look and the seam of your beanie. So normally you would do a chain three and then you would double crochet, and I'll explain this part in a second, and it gives kind of like a skimpy looking stitch. If I do instead a tall chain, I'm going to get something that looks a lot better. So a tall chain is basically a chain you're going to pull the height of a double crochet. It's better to go smaller than bigger than your double crochet. It'll be more hidden if it's a little bit smaller than bigger than a normal size double crochet. We're going to lock in that tall chain with another chain. So yarn over and then pull through. And that is going to be our tall chain that's going to not count as a stitch. It does not count as a stitch, so when we do our instruction... We go straight into the double crochets. So it's telling me to double crochet two times in every single stitch around. So because this doesn't count as a stitch, I need to work two double crochets in the stitch that I just joined with. So I'm going to yarn over, the hole is nice and big for me from that tall chain, I can insert right in, and do a double crochet, and then I'm going to yarn over and do another one in that same hole. This is gonna increase it so it lays nice and flat, or the crown will be nice and flat on the baby's head so you don't have like a cone head effect. Then we're going to do two double crochets in the next stitch. The next stitch is always the most difficult to see when you're working in rounds because it kind of gets pulled a little strangely from your join. So you can see I have kind of a big hole there. I don't want to work into just that loop because that's just the back loop. I want to work into this front loop too. So you can see the V's are coming together and then this one's kind of a little distorted. So I want to get under that first loop and the back loop. You can always pull to make sure you're only under two loops, and then do my two double crochets. Once you do the first one, the easy one, the second one's easy to see because then you have the hole there. I'm going to my next stitch, and this one's a lot easier to see. The hole's already opening up for me. I just insert under both of those loops. You can always... you can... Try just the front loop or the back loop. It's just going to give it a different texture. If you do the back loop, you'll have little ridges, so this front loop will be like a ridge all the way around. If you work into the front loop, it just kind of flattens it out. It doesn't look too much different than this because you're working in the round. So the back loop's really the only thing that's going to give you a difference. So if you find that you have ridges around your beanie and it doesn't look like mine, You're probably only working in that back. If you like the look, you can do that. I'm going to keep going with two double crochets all the way around. Okay, I just finished my last two double crochets. Now I'm ready to join. So when you have your tall chain, here's my tall chain right here, see it's kind of blended in, you just ignore it. All it's doing is providing you with a way to get your first stitch the same height as the rest of your stitches. I could have just started double crocheting into this space, but it would have been really squished down because there is no height To start off your stitch width, so we ignore the the tall chain and we join with a slip stitch in our very first double crochet. So again if you're new and it's hard to find that, work backwards, count your v's until you get to number 24 which is right here, and slip stitch under both of those loops. Pull through and pull through and I tighten it down just so that brings everything together. So you can see that my seam is almost invisible and you don't see those chain three stitches. So for our next round, you want to keep this nice and flat so we don't have the cone head. So we're going to do another tall chain, lock it in, and then two double crochets again in that slip stitch so our hole is nice and large to see to work into. We're doing another 12 increases, another 12 We're going to make two sets of two double crochets, but we're spacing them out evenly so that our circle stays a circle. If I just put all my increases on one half of this beanie, I would start getting a weird bulb out of the side of it. So to space it out, I need to add a double crochet in between each increase. So I'm going to do one double crochet in my next stitch, and then I'm going to do two double crochets in the stitch after. So my pattern is two double crochets and then a double crochet. I do that 12 times. You'll see brackets in the pattern, and that means do what you see in the brackets as many times as it tells you after the brackets. So it says DC two times in next stitch, DC in next stitch. Two in one, and then one in one. Over and over. Basically it's until you get to the end of the round, but I put in there 12 times just in case you want to keep track. Keep going around until we get back to the beginning. Just my last double crochet to do. And we are ready to join again, skip that tall chain and insert your hook there. You should have 36 stitches this time, so if you need to check your stitches or work your way backwards for the join, go ahead and do that. You can see, if I didn't have this here, and I kind of just showed you the top of this, that seam is very masked, it doesn't stand out like a normal chain 3 join seam, so it'll Make it look a lot nicer when your project is finished. So for the next round, we're going to do some more increases. Again, we have to do another 12. So we're going to start with a tall chain, lock it in, two double crochets. This time, since we spaced out our two double crochets by one double crochet last time, now we're spacing it out by two. So I'm going to do one double crochet in my next stitch, and then one double crochet in the stitch after. Increase, or DC, two times in next stitch, and then DC in next two stitches, which means one DC in each of the next two stitches. So you'll see that in the brackets again in the pattern, and kind of start to understand how these patterns go if you're new. I tend to talk a lot in these videos because I... Just in case this is the first one you've ever watched from me, I'm hoping that you'll learn something. People that watch my videos a lot are probably hearing a lot of the same info, but I want to make sure that you have enough information rather than not enough. Sorry if you do not like the talking. I'll try to give as much information as possible. So again, we're doing two double crochets in one stitch, and then one double crochet in the next two stitches. That's going to keep us flat. We're almost ready to get to the body. So you notice I just kind of took a little pause because I couldn't remember what stitch I was on. So when I do that, I'm pulling my stitches apart to look because you can see there's a V coming out of the stitch. You can see the two stitches actually coming out of that stitch. And then you can see the one and the one. So if you're stitching and you put it down and you pick it up and you're like, oh my goodness, where was I? Instead of having to count all the way from the beginning to see what you should be on, just pull them apart and you can see it right there. So even if I look at the round below, you can see here's two coming out of one and one. Two and one. So read your stitches really well in double crochet to help you see where you're at. So I'm going to keep going around until we get back to the beginning. Okay, I'm just on my last two double crochets. And then we are going to move on to the body of the beanie. If you want to make this slightly bigger, so this is good for a newborn, this is going to give you about a 15 inch circumference and there'll be a little bit of stretch. So that's usually about a newborn size head. So really cute and like a little baby shower gift basket. But if you want to make it a little bit more practical so that it lasts a little bit longer, you're going to do one more round. So you're going to do the two double crochets increase. And this time you'll put three double crochets in between. So it would be DC two times, DC in the next three, and then DC two times. So right now we have 48 stitches. If you went one more round, you would have 60 stitches. So if you want to make it to, that'll probably give you about a 17 inch circumference, 16 to 17, and that should last a few more months. The stretch on this is good with it being double crochet, so you're going to get a pretty good stretch all the way probably up to about a 17 inch circumference, but if you get, because this is unstretched, this is 15 inches unstretched. So if you go one more round, you'll probably get about 17 inches unstretched, which will get you about 18, 19 with the stretch. So that's the measurement around the head, like right above the ears. So around the whole, like this is the head, and this is the eyes. You're doing the measurement around this way. Okay, so now we're ready for the body. Basically, super simple. We're going to do a tall chain. And then we're going to double crochet in every stitch we come to and that is it. Super simple, no increasing, just start double crocheting in every stitch. Last double crochet, so if you're here and you're like I don't know where to end my double crochet, should I work here or here or whatever it may be, just remember how many stitches around you have. So this My specific beanie has 48, so I can count 48 to make sure that I have the correct amount before joining, so sometimes that will throw off somebody that's new, they think they might need to work here, wherever it may be, just count your stitches real quick and you'll be able to see where you should end. So again, we're going to join, and you'll notice... That we're starting to form a little bowl. So this is the way we want to work it. We want to work it with the bowl facing out and our stitches facing out. Some people will work it this way. It does not matter. Whatever is more comfortable for you. But you'll notice that the correct side of the stitches are on the inside. So when you're done, you just flip it out. Even if you like this side better, this kind of gives a little bit of a different texture. Whatever you like. There's no wrong in crochet. If you want to be technically correct, you would work it like a bowl with the stitches facing to the outside, not the inside. So you'll see it's starting to cup up, we're starting to get a beanie shape, and now we're just going to do the same thing again. Tall chain, lock it in, double crochet around. Super simple. Go ahead and work all the way around and we'll meet up again in the last double crochet. We can see how this is taking shape. You're getting a good little bowl here. So we're going to do two more rounds of the same thing with the tall chain and double crochet all the way around. We don't need to keep coming back at the end of the round, you know what to do. So go ahead and do two more rounds and then we will come back and look at it. I've done my last double crochet, now I'm ready to join up. So I did two more rounds of the double crochet, now we've got the full beanie, we're just going to do one more round of finishing, so we're going to do a round of single crochet, so that way it gives it like a finished edge around the bottom. So we're going to do a chain 1, and then we're going to single crochet in that same stitch as the join that keeps our seam all straight. If I were to move it over one and start in the next stitch, my seam would go that way. It's not really noticeable, but it's a good habit to be in when you're doing single crochet so that you always have a straight seam. Always work your first single crochet in the same stitch as your chain one. So we're just going to single crochet around. Insert our hook. So we'll go around and then we'll meet at the end and get ready to make our ears, okay? Again, if you're having trouble telling where your last one goes, just count those Vs because the single crochets, unless you're used to counting them, they're a little bit more difficult. Each little V that you see in the front is a single crochet, but just turning your work and counting the V's on top is a lot easier. So we're going to join with a slip stitch in the top of our very first single crochet. Fasten off, so I always do my fasten off. So I make a chain and then I pull it long. Now we have our beanie complete. So you have a nice little edge. And now we just need to make our ears. So we're going to use the same color. You can get creative if you want. Alright, so now to start on the ears, we're going to do another magic adjustable loop. This time we're using single crochet instead of double crochet. So again, grab your tail and turn down and grab hold. I'm going to do a slip stitch this time just to lock it down. The magic adjustable loop or the magic adjustable ring is pretty unruly until you get the hang of it. It wants to fight you with every stitch. So just notice how many fingers I'm using to hold on to it as I make my single crochet. So let me go ahead and actually do a chain one first, just to get a little height. I'm going to single crochet six times in the ring, and notice I pull everything, straighten Everything out. Move the ring around, you'll get used to it as you practice. Hold onto it, it's a lot easier to make your single crochets around. This is even harder to count, these single crochets, than a dark color, so use the tops of your stitches. One, two, three, four, five, one more, I thought I had already made six, and then pull it tight. So we're working in a spiral for this, so I have a stitch marker. I don't want to join the rounds, I want this to be no seams on it. So I'm going to start doing my single crochet just as if I had joined the rounds. So I want to do it in the first single crochet I made. So again, you can count backwards to find that, so 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, chain 1 over here, so make sure you're not working into that chain 1. Then I'm going to single crochet. So this is my chain 1 right here, and that's my single crochet, so 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, always good to count. To add, I'm going to do a single crochet here, we're going to increase, so we're doing 2 single crochets in every stitch. So you can go back in there and make another one, but I'm going to put my stitch marker in so I don't lose track of my round. I'm putting it in the first stitch I made for this round right here, so that I know when to start the next round instructions. Some people like to put the stitch marker in the last stitch of their previous round. I like doing that because I get on a roll with my instructions and I don't want to have to stop at my last stitch to pull the stitch marker out. So I need to do two single crochets in each stitch around. Counting, unless you're sitting there and not moving for this entire ear, I would use a stitch marker. You can also use yarn as your stitch marker. Just lay the yarn down. In between, right on top of your stitch before you make it, and then make your stitch and it'll get locked in. If I had my stitch marker right in this stitch, this last stitch, I would have to stop and take it out. Instead, I finish my whole round, and then I can look at my pattern and go, So, okay, next round, this is what I'm doing. I can take out my stitch marker as I'm looking at my pattern. It's a lot more convenient, for me at least, to do that. So the next round we're going to increase again, but we're going to put a single crochet in between each increase, just kind of like we did with the double crochet increases. So I'm doing two single crochets in this first stitch, Again put my stitch marker back, stitch markers like a safety pin. Then I'm going to do one single crochet in my next stitch, two single crochets in the I'm going to single crochet in the next stitch, repeat that pattern until we get back to the beginning, got my stitch marker, so I'm going to pull this out, and then I'm looking at my pattern as I pull it out, and this time I'm moving our increases just a little bit, because I want to make sure that this stays looking like a circle instead of a hexagon, if I keep my increases in the same spot every time, it's going to get more of a hexagon shape than a circle shape. So this time I'm going to single crochet once. Into that first stitch, we're still evenly increasing around, we're just moving them one stitch over, so instead of increasing in that very first stitch, I'm doing an increase in the next stitch. So I'm going to do two single crochets in this next stitch, and then one single crochet in the next. So instead of doing two single crochets in this first stitch and then one and one, I'm doing one, two single crochets, and one, so that's the pattern. Single, sc two times, single. Just remember that, that'll help you to keep a more rounded look to the top of the ear. Crochet, keep doing that all the way around, back to the ear. One more round to go, you can see even with that movement we still have kind of a little bit of a hexagon shape, but once we do this next round, there we go, once we do the next round we are going to have a more circle shape. So for this next round all we're doing is single crocheting in every stitch around. This is our final round before we start making it 3D. Again, place your stitch marker. I keep stabbing myself. This thing is pointy. I do not recommend this. Single crochet in each stitch around. Do that and we'll meet up at the end of the round. All right, so finish that round. Before we start this next round, because the next round is going to start decreasing it, I want to weave in this end just a bit because I'm actually going to hide it inside so I don't have to weave it in totally. But I want to make sure that this hole is completely closed. for the ear, so I'm going to grab the yarn needle and I'm going to pull that close so you can see there's a little bit of a hole there. I want to close it all the way up and then I'm going to weave my yarn through the middle of all those single crochets here so that way that hole will stay closed. There's a lot of amigurumi patterns. They'll say, "Oh, just tuck it inside," but they don't remind you. You have to kind of weave it in so that the hole stays closed. So if you have any amigurumi and your hole is starting to open, that's why. Because you didn't take that one extra step to close that off. I'm just going to cut that little guy there, because that's going to remind me that this is the inside. I don't want this part facing out, I want this part facing out. So you'll see it's cupping around like this, I need to cup it around the other way. And now I'm starting to decrease. Decreases don't matter. For the circular effect, because we already finished that round and you can see it looks like a circle, so we're good to go. So the decreases are all going to be made the same way. We're going to decrease the first two stitches, so we're going to sc2tog, single crochet two together. So to do that, in case you are not familiar, you're going to insert your hook in the first stitch you come to, pull up a loop, insert your hook in the next stitch you come to, pull up a loop, There's three loops on your hook, just like a half double crochet, and you're going to yarn over and pull through all three. Then we're going to copy what we did for the round before this last round, where we did we did two single crochets and then two crochets in one. I cannot say it correctly. We did two single crochets in one stitch, and then we did one single crochet in the next two stitches. So this is a reverse. We're doing SC2 together, and then we're doing one single crochet in the next two stitches. So it's just kind of reversed. Instead of increasing, we're decreasing. So when you do your decrease, turn your hook down to pull through. You won't get caught on all your loops. Two single crochets. This is going to start cupping up right away, so you can see it's cupping the wrong way, so just keep flipping it back around, because we want this part facing out. So again, single crochet two together, and single crochet once in the next two stitches. All right, we have 18 stitches now, we're going to get down to 12 and we're going to be done. And we're gonna put this on our beanie. So to get down to 12, we're going to decrease again. This time we're going to again do a single crochet two together. And this time we're going to do one single crochet in our next stitch, and then we'll start the pattern over. Dabbed myself again! Thumbs up! Crochet two together, one single crochet two together. Keep going, because I'm almost halfway there. You notice I kind of pushed it, and pull it, and move it, so that I can get this, so I can work into it while it's folded over. So I just push it out of the way so that I don't actually catch any of these stitches when I'm making two together. Okay, so we're going to fasten off, get a long tail for easy sewing. I always need it about 10 times longer than everybody else because I don't like to cut another piece of yarn. I just want to be able to do it all with one. Pull off, I'm going to get a little bit of polyfill. If you don't have polyfill, because we use such a small amount, like this is it for one year. If you don't have polyfill and don't want to go buy a big gigantic bag of it, Use yarn scraps. Just grab some yarn and stuff it in until it's poofy enough that you like it. So, a little bit more. I want it sticking out just a bit. That's how poofy I want it. It's a big hole, easy to stuff. I've already made one of these and attached it to my beanie. I haven't woven in all of my edges yet. But I put one of our ears on, and I did it where the seam is, and the reason that I put it on the seam is because when you're going to put this on a baby, you don't want to have to worry about is the seam in the front or the back. So sometimes I'll put the ears and have the seam in the middle, and you're supposed to always put, you know, that in the back so it's cute. If you put the ear on the seam, you don't have to worry about that. Both sides are good. And you really can't tell because the ear takes up most of the seam. So it's a win-win. So that is my tip for the day. All right, now we're going to sew this other guy on. So I went between, I sewed it on, so here's round one, round two. I sewed this guy on from round three, four, and a little bit around five. So I wanted them kind of right on top of the head. We're gonna place it. I am doing the part that I'm starting. Right where I need it to be, so don't start like sideways over here and then hope that it winds up in the right place up top. Start it where exactly you want it to be, so I'm going to come straight across and I want it right there at round 3 and I'm going to go into the stitch, I'm going to whip stitch this, so it's going to go around and around, so I go into the stitch and then I'm going to catch some yarn on the beanie. I do not go all the way through. That's just a hole of one of the stitches. The actual needle is in, that's the actual needle sticking through right there, the actual needle is in between the yarn, I'm breaking the yarn when I sew, called when you go through the plies. So that way I don't create any gaps. If I go all the way around a stitch and I pull it tight, I'm going to create a gap like that. So I want to break the yarn, go through the plies, so that way it's not going to create any weird holes. So I'm going to keep on checking this, I'm going to keep adjusting it as I go so that I know my ears are looking good, because you have some wiggle room in the beginning. Once you get halfway, three quarters through, your ears are not moving. So again, I'm going to the next stitch, and then I'm going and breaking some plies through. Go to the next stitch. More stitches than less stitches is better. Do as many as you can for a nice seamless ear. You can say this all the way around the bottom. Yarn this. Make sure it's going where I want it to go. Make it where it's at. Good. Turn it this way just so you can keep an eye on it. Go through the loop. Gist of it. Tight. A nice seamless look to the ears and the beanie. Keep going until you get all the way around, and then we'll weave in the rest of the ends and take a look at our finished piece. All right, I've finished doing all of the whip stitching. And you can go around a couple times if you want. You can secure it as much as you want. If you want this not to be so poofy, you can stitch a little higher and pull it down. Whatever you like. Once you get it all the way around, just run it through and then come out the other side. And I am queen of the double knots. I love double knotting stuff to get it so secure. So if there's a spot where I can double knot, I always double knot. And people, some people just hate that. But... I don't have to worry about it coming undone, so I'm going to weave my end all the way to the center. I already did this with the other ear, but I totally wove it in so you can't see it. But I'm going over to my middle yarn that I started the project with, getting right next to it, and I'm going to double knot it. And then I'm going to weave it in some more. So I'm going to leave my needle on, double knot this guy. That's why I have it woven this in, because I want to use it for double knotting. And then I'm going to go and go back the other way. And I don't really need to weave this part in that much, since I double knotted it. It's not going to come undone, but I don't want to do it. I have these two other ends to weave in. I'll do that real quick, just in case you're new to weaving in. I always like when this center hole, I double knotted it really tight, so this center hole's not going to open. But usually I will go around just like I did with the ear. And it's really thick right here, so it's a good spot to hide your ends. You can get to this center hole on anything you're working in the round. It's a great spot to hide all of the ends of your yarn. And since I double knotted this as well, I don't have to weave in that much. Because it's not going to come undone either. The only place I want to be real careful is over here, on this end. The very last one. I'm going to go in the direction that I was working, so if I look this way. I'm going that way, so I'm going to go into this next stitch and I'm going to go right in the middle. And start working my way up, because that's going to help bring down that little fasten off piece to hide it. And then I'm going to go through these stitches. Break the ply on these. Don't go, you want to go in the middle of the stitches so that you don't have any yarn tails showing through. You can weave in as much as you want. And back and forth, lock it in there. Our little beanie, so cute. I like the poofy on the ears. You can even like maybe put them right on the sides if you're a Star Wars fan and make them a little bigger and have little Princess Leia buns. That is our baby bear beanie. If you have any questions, leave them below and thank you so much.