非洲大冒险（下） P5 - Clive.Myries.African.Adventure.S01E10.Tangier.1080p.WEBRip.x264.UMMU.NET

Over 20 years ago, I was based in South Africa, reporting from across the continent for the BBC. It's Big Papa, here's the news. Oh, my gosh. It was an unforgettable experience. Roll up, roll up, the best lamb in Marrakesh! But I've always wanted to come back. And find out more about the Africa. We rarely see on TV. One mistake, I club you. Oh my word, I better not make a mistake then. Now I'm travelling across this vast continent to discover why life can feel so much bigger and bolder here than anywhere else on earth. I'll be uncovering some deep family roots. You are from Africa. I knew I was a warrior god. And getting the chance to live life local style. Woo! As I experience the speed, the sights, check out that view, and the soul of this vibrant and varied land. Oh, look at that. Animals crossing the road. Join me on my African adventure. Nestled on the northwest coast at the very top of Africa, Morocco is a country where cultures collide. It's one of my favorite places to visit. It's a spicy blend of African, Arabic, European and Imazayan influences, complete with epic mountains, buzzing cities and a glorious coast. This is a land of romance and charm, with the city of Tangier an alluring jewel, attracting writers and poets and artists for decades. I've always wanted to come here, and now I've finally got my chance. Just 20 miles from Spain, Tangier is the gateway to Africa or the portal to Europe, depending on your point of view. While I'm here, I'm meeting the band that wowed the Rolling Stones and learning the secrets of lanterns. You're as shocked as I am. But first, I'm off to find out how a piece of Moroccan style, fashionable back in the 1960s, is becoming popular again. Last century, Tangier became a byword for hedonism, a hotspot for international artists, writers and designers. Marwa, it's lovely to meet you. Nice to meet you. I'm honoured, Clive. How are you? Maria, a fashion blogger, is part of that rich legacy. She's on a mission to make sure one of Morocco's most stylish cultural exports, the kaftan, doesn't die out. That is a beautiful kaftan. That's very kind of you. Beautiful. Especially wear this today, just to showcase how us Morocco nowadays are trying to wear the traditional kaftan in a modern way. While other countries have similar traditional garments, the Moroccan kaftan is part of the national dress and the country's cultural heritage. So what makes a Moroccan kaftan different from any others that you might find in North Africa or the Middle East? I think the embroidery, the designs, the unique designs and the colors, the cuts. It is elegant but at the same time bold. When you wear it with a pair of heels you just feel like you can run the world. Oh, my God. I have to take her word for it on the heels. But kaftans are worn by men and women. From the middle of the 20th century, they became internationally popular. They were the height of fashion in the 60s and 70s, worn by celebrities like Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor and Bianca Jagger, before going out of style. Then, in the mid-2020s, caftans became cool again and are selling in huge numbers once more. Let's go. This is one of the oldest tailors here in the Old Medina, Hassan. Salam. Hi, Hassan. How are you? Clive. I'm very well. It's really, really good to see you. Thank you. Really good to see you. And these are absolutely beautiful. And this is your work? Yes. Yes? Yes. All this? Yes. And is it all hand-stitched? All hand-stitched, yes. All hand-stitched, so no machine? No machine, yes. It can take a traditional hayat or tailor weeks to make a single garment. Most learn the art in their family workshops and train for decades. So how did you learn to do all this? Was it from your mother? Mama. Mama? No. From your mom? Yes. See, my mom was a seamstress as well. She did, but I didn't go into the profession unlike you. Sometimes I wish I did. In common with other Moroccan design, kaftans are a fusion of Arab and Andalusian influences. Oh, that's beautiful for a man. Oh, that's stunning. And this is all hand-stitched. Oh, my mum would be very impressed with you, mate. Yes. She'd like you. Thank you. Beautiful detail. Amazing. Can you hear me? You want me to try it on? Yes. Actually, I would love to see you in a traditional wear. Oh, wow. Okay. Well, why not? Let me take a look. No, no, no. Those are the pockets. Okay. So you can reach for the money. So reach for the money. If you need to tip someone at the wedding. I'm making this look more difficult than it should be. What do you think? It's beautiful. I love it. It's exactly your size. Hassan, you're the man. Yeah, it's beautifully done. How does it make you feel? Oh, I feel very Moroccan. Oh. I feel very smart. Yeah. This kaftan is our ancestors, not ours, not ours, our ancestors. And you're carrying on the tradition with your skills and craftsmanship here. A wonderful tradition. This is beautiful. I feel like a local. Well, welcome to the club. Indeed. Maria uses her life online to promote local designers, creating new riffs on the kafta. So she's taking me to find one for my wife, Catherine. Oh, well, look at this. Oh, it's very chic. Very minimal. It's not bad, is it? Very minimal. Tomorrow I can tell you the details. Oh, yeah. Beautiful. Yeah. Okay, well, that might be something. Okay, so that's one. And how about Lenin? How does she feel about Lenin? Oh, she loves Lenin. Yeah, especially with this season. Oh, that's nice. This is very beautiful. Oh, that's lovely. Yeah, perfect. Yeah, okay, try that one. Okay, so let's try a third one. Maybe something colorful? Okay, there's a bit of color in this one. How about this one? Nice color. Yeah, it is. Yeah, okay, shall we try these? Yeah. Okay, I think we should take some pictures. Now, I'm not brave enough to take a chance. I'm going to let Catherine decide which one she prefers. So here's the first one. There you go. The linen one. And the last one. She can see the details. Okay, so I'm just going to send these to Catherine now. See what she thinks. Done. So which one do you think she'll choose? Oh, it's a difficult choice because they're gorgeous. I've got a feeling, though, she might go for the linen one. Oh, yeah? I would go for the linen one too. Yeah, it's beautiful. The detail is amazing, but it's quite sort of simple and it's not too showy, but she'll love the color of the other one as well. That sort of dusky pink with the gray is really nice. Oh, the message. Exciting. Got a message. So, what is it going to be? She says they're all lovely, but what she really likes is the simplicity of... Drum roll? Roll. The linen. The linen one, I thought so. Oh, she has a good taste. The linen, oh yes. And that's wonderful. It is beautiful. That is really, really nice. Well done, Catherine. Yes, she's going to look amazing. Thank you, thank you so much. Crafts here are known for their vivid patterns. The swirls of color are just mesmerizing. He's really very skilled. Morocco's long artisan tradition stretches back centuries. The craftsmen and women here use the techniques and often the tools of their ancestors. Salaam. I mean these are intricate little toys. This is an elephant and it's made out of leather but they're stuffed with straw and he's doing it on the premises and that's what I like about the medina here and the souks. So much of the produce, yes factories make some of it and it's busting or whatever, but a lot of it is made on the premises so it's local and it's real. One very old tradition is that of the fanous, an Arab word for lantern. A piece of design synonymous with Morocco. Abdel Ali is a master craftsman. Abdel Ali. Abdel Ali. Clive. Welcome in Clive. It's good to see you. Very good. You good? I'm sorry, I'm disturbing your work. Oh, and your work is amazing. I see all the mirrors, which are brilliant, but the lamps are incredible. The craftsmanship is amazing. When I first saw this model, I knew it had a history. Well, this is an ear. So that is one of the most ancient lamp designs here in Morocco. How long would it take you to make that? I'm seeing him at the moment. And is there any religious significance to the actual shape? This symbol is a symbol of the masjid, the ears of the masjid. Perhaps this kind of design of lamp in your home, that took you closer to God, that took you closer to the mosque? I don't know where I found these things. I mean, the factory goes to the factory. Usually, the things go to the factory. They don't go to the factory. Abdel has been making lanterns for decades. Today, I'm his apprentice. Okay, so what are we doing? I want to cut it like this. Okay. I'll do it like this. Okay. Okay, so you've shaped some of the brass to go around the edge. Oh, very clever. Beautiful. So that will form part of the detail of a lamp. Yeah. You can do it like this. Shall I have a go? Okay, yeah. Well, why not? Okay, so we've got it in the groove there. And... Hee hee hee hee hee. Yes. Yeah. Oh! You're as shocked as I am. We've been learning for 50 years and now we're learning for an hour and a half. You say all the sweetest things. It's certainly beginning to take shape. What do you think, hip fella? Yes? Yes. All right. I'm not cheap. Dun-dun-dun-dun, and the moment, the moment of truth, will it fit on, I haven't got my glasses on, there we go. There it is, there it is. So we've completed a section of a lamp and I could see this perhaps going on the corners of a lamp like that. Do you have any examples of what a finished product might look like? Oh! So that is the finished version. There we go. Look at that. Amazing. So those are the panels on the side there and there's my little contribution. Potentially. Wonderful. My next stop is a couple of hours drive away and a different world. The Rif Mountains that flank Tangier are home to the Berbers, the descendants of the pre-Arab inhabitants of North Africa, or as they prefer to be called, Amazigh, the free people. The village of Jezzouka is tiny, but it has a big musical history. Ahmed, Clive, Salam, it's good to see you. Hello, how are you? Thank you, welcome to Jezzouka. The music of Jezzouka is well-known, the music of Yemen is spiritual, and the weather is good, everything, and this music is dangerous, the music of Jezzouka is spiritual, the music of Jezzouka is the best music in the world. The master musicians of Jezzouka, the folk group that Ahmed is part of, played the pyramid stage at Glastonbury in 2023. But this isn't just entertainment. Their music is rooted in Sufism, a branch of Islam devoted to spirituality and mysticism. Sofie, it's time for you to get ready for Islam. And get ready for the music. Some of those who've travelled here on a musical pilgrimage include the author William Burroughs and the Rolling Stones. I came back here to Sinas. I came here to Jezzouka. And I came here with Abraham John. I want to share the music of Jezzouka with Abraham John. And listen to the music of the greatest American musician. I want to listen to the music of Jezzouka. He said, don't listen to the music of Jezzouka. They said, don't cut the music of Jezzouka. It will be cut in the world. The world is listening to your music. Incredible. Well, I want to see more of this place. Are you going to show me around? Me? Yes. Yeah? Yes. Why not? Yes. My grandmother's house, my father's house, my grandmother's house, my grandfather's house, my father's house. And my husband's house, my uncle's house, my mother's house. There. I'm staying there. Brian Jones stayed there. I'm going to have a look. I've got to have a look. Oh, yeah. Fit for a rock star. I love music and the different traditions of African sounds. Ahmed is going to share some of the secrets of Jajouka rhythms with me. I see a drum. This is the drum, this is the music, this is the drum, and this is a little bit more. Oh, OK. Yeah, give it a go. OK. I think I'm getting the hang of it. Jajouka, the name of both the village and the music, means good things come to you, which is exactly how I feel about being here. Later tonight, I'll get to see how the masters do it when the band comes together to perform after the sun goes down. Before that, I want to find out a bit more about the mountain lives of Morocco's first people. Good. The Rif Mountains are a little off the tourist trail, but the scenery is glorious. And the geography suits one of this area's popular livestock, goats. Hey, hey, hey, hey. In Morocco, goat cheese appears on the table almost as often as bread. I'm going to find out how it's made with Mohamed, who has a herd of 50 goats to supply him with the milk it requires. Tell me about the importance of goat herding and farming here and the products that come from the animals. For the milk that we used to get after the milking process, we used to get the milk from a mountain that is 100% natural, without any artificial materials. Oh, they're beautiful. Oh, they're so cute. Mohamed's mountain goats are well suited to the warm and sunny climate here and he's going to introduce me. This is Hamza, and this is Fatima. That's Hamza? Hamza. So the main man is Hamza? Hamza. He looks like a Hamza. Okay, he looks like a Hamza. What's that one called? Fatima. Fatima, that's Fatima? Fatima. Okay, so you name them all. They're your babies. Yes. Oh, they've run away. Oh, that's a shame. You name them whatever you want them to be. Ah, okay. Um... I don't know, I think rose. Rose? Rose. You know Arabic? Yeah? Zahra. Zahra? Zahra. Zahra. All right. Zawina. All right, okay. Zahra. You're suggesting I milk one of these goats? Well, why not? All right, okay. I'll give it a go. We need to get one out though, don't we? All right, okay, I'll give it a go. We need to get one out though, don't we? Help me, help me. Hold on. Okay, oops, oops, oops. By the horn, by the horn. Okay. Oh, my God. There's a lot of resistance there. Oh, struggling a little bit. I can't think why. Okay, here we go. She's happy now. Yeah, he's in a good mood. We are going to clean the water and dry it, then we are going to wash it and filter it and then we are going to go to the bank. Okay, so just on my hand? There we go. Like this? Good? Whoops, whoops, whoops, whoops, whoops. She's a bit lively this one. Children and animals. Perfect. She seems happy about that. Do you know what I mean? All right. Okay. My turn. Okay. Right. Okay. This ain't working. You actually push really hard. There we go. There we go. I was trying to be gentle. Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes. There we go, there we go. I've got the hang of it now. This is going to make beautiful, beautiful products. Whoo! No, no, no. Well, I could say there's no point crying over spilled milk, but that would be cheesy. There you go, there you go. It's good. I think we're getting along well. Good? Good, good, good. Good. It's still warm, you know? Yes. It's still warm. Yes, yes. The goats spend their days roaming freely in the mountains, munching on plants and herbs which fill their milk with flavor. Now we're turning it into cheese, the traditional way. So we've got our fresh goat's milk. Now we are going to do the filtration. All right, so we're going to strain it through, filter it through. Here it goes. The filtered milk is pasteurized and bacteria added, so it ferments over a couple of days. You can't see it with me. This is Kayi. Smells good. It's looking good. Is it good? This is good. This is good, yeah. Beautiful. We mix it and then we put it in a pot. Fermentation separates it into solid curds and liquid whey. The curd sitting on the top of the vat is what goes into the moulds. Okay, maybe here? This is good, this is good. You try to put the top layer in as many of the moulds as you can. The moulds give the cheese its shape. It's then left to drain for 10 days, taken out of the mould, refrigerated, and it's ready to eat. Oh, here we go. Look at that. Yes, yes. Beautiful. Fresh. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. All right. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Jibn. Yes, it's London. Jibn. No? No. Mmm. Mmm. It's like a really thick, creamy, condensed yogurt. That's what it tastes like. It's delicious. Thank you so much. Thank you for coming here, Adnan. Appreciate it, man. Thank you very much. And welcome back. And welcome back. You've been here with us once again. Thank you very much. Oh, it's a pleasure. It's a pleasure. After a day out with the goats, I'm back in Jajouka village. The sun is lower in the sky. Salaam. Thank you. Thank you. Salaam. And the master musicians are ready to begin. Okay. Ahmed. Ha ha ha ha ha! You're a man transformed. Good. You look fantastic. Fantastic. Good. Good. Oh. Um. I like music. I sit and listen to music. And I'm happy. The full performance lasts several hours. The trance-like music designed to create a hypnotic state. Drums, propulsive thrust with the reed instruments on top. It's just... Just eat, eat, eat. Just keeps going. It's incredible. Dance is also part of the event. You know, I'm sure he wouldn't mind me suggesting that he's quite an old guy, but look at him! I think he heard me. Yes! Yes! Amazing! You're the man! No question! In Jajouka performances, the dancer embodies the character of Boujeloud, part goat, part man, a close relative of the Greek god Pan, a god of shepherds and flocks said to bring fertility and renewal. Boujeloud doesn't appear every time, so it's a real privilege to see him. Just like that, he's gone into the night. That's my cue to head back to the city and home. From the ancient sounds of Jajouka to the ancient walls of this city, this leg of my African adventure has been steeped in history and yet the passage of time hasn't aged or dimmed its brightness. Tangier is as exciting and vital today as it ever was. Whether you're a Sufi mystic, Rolling Stone or Humble Traveller, there's something here If you enjoyed that, you can press the red button now to see all episodes of my African adventures, only on BBC iPlayer.