Hello friends. Today I share the VIDEO: Orchids in November: Do This Now or No Flowers Until Spring.
Hello friends. Today I share the VIDEO: Orchid care in November. If you want blooming orchids next year, do this now.
November is a critical month for orchid care. While many believe cold weather is the main enemy, the real threat to your plants is actually the dry air from heating systems. If you do not adjust your routine now, your plants may fail to produce flowers next fall.
Proper winter orchid care involves managing humidity and light as the seasons change. This orchid maintenance routine helps your indoor plants adapt to the artificial indoor environment. By taking these steps, you set the stage for a healthy blooming season.
Subscribe for weekly plant care breakdowns, and tell me in the comments: how are your orchids preparing for winter?
0:00 The Hidden November Orchid Crisis 1:55 Three Simple Fixes for Dry Winter Air 3:24 Rethinking Your Winter Watering Schedule 6:38 Caring for Your Orchid During Bloom Time
Southern Hemisphere friends: this is your May. What does your hygrometer say right now? Write the number below - I read every comment
November is one of the most important months
of the year's final months.
If you do nothing now, your orchid won't bloom until next fall,
leaving you waiting almost an entire year.
But here's what surprises many people.
The biggest danger in November isn't the cold.
It's something invisible that begins the day you turn on the heater.
Let me show you.
Three things change at the same time in November,
and together, they ruin everything.
One, the heater is turned on.
Indoor humidity drops from around 50% to 20% or lower.
Orchids need 50-70%.
This is what really kills the plant.
The days get shorter.
Less light means the plant uses less water, but most people
still water on their old schedule.
The plant slows down. It stops producing
leaves and either develops a flower spike or goes dormant.
Whether it chooses to bloom
depends on what you do this month.
This is the factor that few people check.
In November,
heated rooms often have only 20-30% humidity,
while orchids need 50-70%. That is why leaves
become soft and wrinkled in winter even when
the potting medium is still moist. Three ways to fix it:
First, group the plants together. Plants release
water vapor so a group of plants creates a humid
zone of air around itself. It's free
and effective. Second, a pebble tray. Use
a shallow tray, fill it
with pebbles and add water
to a level just below
the surface of the pebbles
the pot sits on top of
the pebbles and the bottom of the pot must always
stay dry. Water evaporates around the plant. Third,
if your room is very dry, run a small humidifier
for a few hours each day. This is the only way
to maintain
a stable humidity level of 50%.
This is where most orchids
die in winter,
not because of the cold,
but because of water. In summer,
you can water once every seven days.
In November, with less light and slower plant growth,
the potting medium stays moist much
longer. Keeping the old schedule means
the roots stay wet for days.
So throw away the calendar,
use the pot itself. Lift it; if it feels light, water it.
if it still feels heavy, wait, even if it has
been two weeks. And one thing everyone gets wrong: wrinkled leaves
in winter are usually caused by
low air humidity not a lack
of water. Check the potting medium first.
if the potting medium is wet,
but the leaves are still
wrinkled don't water
address the humidity. Move
the plant closer to
the window. The days are shorter and the sunlight is weaker,
so the perfect spot in July is now too
dark in November.
Just make sure the leaves don't touch the cold glass.
And move the plant away from
all heat sources. Radiators, space heaters, heating vents.
And move the plant away from all heat
sources. Radiators, space heaters, heating vents.
If your window is dark, a simple LED grow light
turned on for four to six hours a day is enough.
If you still haven't seen a flower spike, November
is your last chance and it still works.
The only difference
is that the flowers will bloom a little
later in February or March instead of January.
The key signal is the drop in nighttime temperatures.
Orchids need around 15 to 18 degrees Celsius.
The simplest method, move the pot closer to the
window every evening, then move it back every morning.
If there are still no flowers by December,
let the plant rest, maintain its health, and try again next October.
Forcing a weakened plant will
only make it more exhausted.
If a flower spike has already appeared,
your task changes completely.
Don't rotate the pot. The flower spike grows toward the light
and rotating the pot will cause
it to bend. Don't move the plant to another room.
Sudden changes in temperature or light will cause
the buds to drop. Don't move the plant to another room.
Sudden changes in temperature or light will
cause the buds to drop. Don't fertilize heavily.
When the plant forms buds, use only very diluted
fertilizer once a month
or stop fertilizing completely.
Don't let the plant dry out
completely. At this stage, maintain consistent moisture,
keeping it neither too wet nor completely
dry. Insert a support stake
when the flower spike is about 15
centimeters long and tie it loosely.
That's it. November isn't about watering more.
It's about air humidity, watering less, providing more
light, and keeping the plant away from heat sources.
Do these things now and your orchid
will either produce a flower spike
or rest and recover its health by spring.
If you do nothing,
you'll have to wait until next fall.
Save this video.
In a few weeks, when the heating is running at full power,
you'll need it.
Now tell me in the comments, what is your hygrometer reading?
Just write
the number.
If you don't have a hygrometer, write none,
and I'll tell you what to look out for.
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See you
in the next video.