Japan's Forgotten North: A Land of Snow and Spirits | Documentary Culture & Travel- AMP

We're off to the north of Japan, to Tohoku, land of volcanoes, forests and rocky shores. Here traditions reflect the region's harsh winters. They're as down-to-earth as they are hard. The people speak Tsugaru here. To discover this region our leader is Teji. This high mountain guide is an expert on the volcanoes, the spectacular landscapes and the culture of which the people of this region are so proud. The Tohoku peninsula is situated at the northern end of Honshu island, Japan's main island. It's almost 680 kilometres away from Tokyo, the capital. The peninsula is surrounded by the Sea of Japan and the Pacific Ocean. The city of Hirosaki is at the foot of Mount Iwaki. Iwaki is more than just a volcano. It's a sacred place that fashions life here, by its many sources of water and by the profusion of edible plants growing on its slopes. Lower down is the forest of Shirakami, a virgin forest classified in 1993 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Teji is taking a group of friends hiking along the trails. It's June and nature is in full bloom. Birds and insects abound. Teji has asked Hiro to come along and join his group. During the winter they work together as ski instructors. Hiro comes from the island of Hokkaido, which is further north, and he rarely gets the chance to discover the forest in summertime. Teji is an inexhaustible source of knowledge on the endemic plants and trees here, not to mention on all the animals living in the forest. The local hunters told me that bears are attracted by the smell of the paint on this sign and that's why they've nibbled on it. Teji is explaining how some bears use their claws to climb high enough up the trees to gather the berries. The claw marks speak volumes. Hirosaki is situated at the foot of the volcano. The town has retained a few historic sites, mostly wooden temples, some of which have been restored. The main tower of Hirosaki castle was rebuilt in 1810 after having been destroyed by fire in 1627. Near the ramparts stand these giant figurines. Neputa, made out of rice paper, are one of the outstanding symbols of the town. Here historic scenes are represented and samurai warriors are brought back to life. Neputa designs in Hirosaki are taken from ancient Chinese heroic legends. The theory that practically everyone pretty much agrees upon is that Neputa originally came from here, from Hirosaki, and that they then spread around the region. Later there were Neputa in Aomori. The tradition developed and caught on in Goshogawara. Each region, each town, has developed its own Neputa culture with its own particular style. In Goshogawara, Neputa sometimes reach a height of 25 meters. A special building has been constructed just for their fabrication and storage. They're paraded through the streets once a year during a special festival. It all starts with a drawing inspired by themes pertinent to the city. This year it's the fire that once destroyed the town. The different parts of the figurine are made in various workshops. It's a complicated construction that even includes lighting. Tadashi designs Neputa as well as being responsible for their construction. It takes about a year from the initial paper drawing to the final brush strokes. It's already June and here am I still working for the parade next August. I use rice paper called washi. I add nylon to it to make it stronger and more resistant to the rain. Back in Aomori, the region's largest town, Teijo takes his friend Hiro to the fish market. In an adjacent building you can taste fish from the morning's catch. Buying tickets in advance entitles you to a real feast at a very reasonable price. Everything is eaten raw. Cut up as sashimi accompanied by fish eggs and seaweed salad. Fishing is a major resource in the region. The Hakoda mountains are to the south of Aomori. The range consists of 12 ancient volcanoes. At their base is the Oirase river valley, considered one of the most beautiful rivers in the north of Japan. Crisscrossed by waterfalls, the river winds its way 14 kilometres from Lake Tawada, its source. Lake Tawada is the largest caldera on Honshu, Japan's main island. It was formed about 55,000 years ago as the result of volcanic activity on Mount Hakoda. For Shintoists, volcanoes are sacred places. Accordingly, there's a shrine dedicated to the In the 1950s, Tokaro Takamura, a well-known poet and sculptor, dedicated his sculptures to the lake. Hiro is impressed by the purity of the water. The water is very clear because it's all spring water and it's very difficult to see this clear water in Japan. I've never seen this before. In Tohoku, traditional tsugaru shamisen music is becoming popular again. The Japanese have great admiration for masters of this stringed instrument, the shamisen. Shibutani Kazuo is one of the country's well-known experts. He regularly organizes concerts in his restaurant. On a guitar, you touch the chords. On a shamisen, you pinch them very hard. Listen. Here's what happens when you pinch hard. As a mark of respect, the Japanese add the suffix san to the Iwaki volcano. But Iwaki san rarely shows itself in its entirety, so you have to make the most of it when the sun shines. The plain is covered by apple orchards, and these sugary apples are highly prized throughout Japan. The rest of this very fertile region is taken up by rice fields. Satoko, who works during the winter with Teiji as a ski instructor, also cultivates apples and rice. She and her husband are transplanting young tsugaru Roman rice seedlings. This delicious variety of rice is well adapted to this region's climate. How long does it take for rice seedlings to grow? It takes around three weeks. Ah, three weeks. Yes, three weeks. To produce good rice, you need good quality water. Is the Shirakami water good for growing rice? Yes, I think it's very good. The water in the rice fields comes from either the Shirakami or from the Taiyaki. And from Mount Iwaki? Yes, yes, also the Iwaki volcano, and from the Taiyaki. The water flows down as far as our rice fields, and from here it flows back into the river. This plot here represents my family's consumption of rice for a year. This produces what we'll eat in a year. Teiji is now going to the family temple next to his house. He has a second job. He's also a Shintoist monk. I'm the monk in charge of this shrine. From father to son, I'm the 18th generation to take care of it. Shintoism is being thankful for everything that nature gives us. Many gods are found in nature. When I work as a guide, I keep this Shintoist philosophy in mind, and so I can pass nature's message on to my clients. The Japanese go to the mountains for physical exercise, but above all else, they go as an act of purification to get closer to the gods. Teiji takes Hiro to the top of Mount Iwaki. The volcano's most recent eruption was in 1863. From its peak at 1,625 meters, you can see the entire northern part of the peninsula. To recuperate from the climb, Teiji takes Hiro to Ikuko Murakami's. She and her husband run a restaurant called Teuchi Soba. It's at the foot of the volcano. Teiji greatly respects Ikuko. In her cooking, she uses mainly plants and vegetables that she's picked on the volcano's slopes. It's hard work, but the wide range of flavors that she offers is nothing less than exceptional. Her husband makes the soba, the buckwheat noodle, himself. Look, these are warabi. They're little ferns. You eat them with soya sauce. The wasabi's already been added. I gathered them myself on Iwaki volcano. You don't eat the fish's tail. It's too salty. You can eat the head, but you remove the bones. How long does it take to gather all this? If I don't gather too much, I can do it quickly. But if I'm picking large amounts, it can take all day. This is a traditional shape for sushi. We call them sushi. Ikuko then serves the soba that her husband has made. My husband makes the soba from start to finish himself. He harvests the buckwheat, then preserves it. Apart from a very small machine he uses to mill it, everything's done by hand. The dough, the cutting. He does it all right here. A good day in Tohoku wouldn't be complete without finishing it at the Sukayu Onsen. These hot baths are fed directly from springs in the volcano. There's a great deal of water in the region's ecosystem. It comes from the winter snowfall, from the springs in the volcano itself, and from the many lakes that dot the Tohoku National Park, such as Lake Aoke. Water is responsible for this dense and varied vegetation. Teiji is explaining to Hiro that, in a forest such as this one, it's not a problem for a plant or a tree to grow, but it is a problem for it to get light and, if possible, to get sunlight. The trees must reach to the very top of the canopy. On the ground, fern varieties flourish as they do well in shade. The spring water that flows here is actually rainwater that can be up to 100 years old. It's penetrated into the ground and seeped into the compost, so it's full of minerals. After a complete cycle of about 100 years, the water emerges here. We're now on the east side of the peninsula, near Hachinohe, on Tohoku's Pacific coast. In the port, trawlers are constantly coming and going. It's the middle of the fishing season. There are many fish in this region, owing to the currents that come down from the Bering Sea. Japanese cuisine uses a lot of raw fish, so freshness is crucial. In just a few hours, all these fish will be on restaurant tables in the big cities throughout the north of the country. South of Hachinohe, the Tanesahi coast alternates rocky coastline and grassy meadows battered by the waves. A dozen or so kilometres of this coastline are now part of the Sanriku Fuku National Park. Tatehana Wharf in Hachinohe is the largest open-air market in Japan. Every Sunday morning, 300 vendors offer almost 10,000 visitors a variety of seafood, as well as local fruits and vegetables. Fresh bamboo, ferns, as well as these famous giant Pacific crabs. Grilled tofu is being served in a caramelised sauce. The market begins at dawn, around 4.30 in the morning, and closes about 8. Here, locals patiently wait a delivery of mushrooms from the nearby forests. In less than half an hour, everything is sold. To warm up in this early morning chill, soups and bouillons are much appreciated. Teiji enjoys everything. Spider crabs, mollusks and other shellfish at very reasonable prices. North of Hachinohe, the coast is less rocky, and a few beaches appear. Nature and people are only just recovering from the terrible tsunami that struck this coast in March 2011. In winter, snow affects the daily life in Tohoku, as in Hirosaki, the closest town to the Iwaki volcano. As early as November, the Saisho-in temple, dating from 1667, is covered in snow. The history of the region can easily be traced as far back as the 8th century, to the Heian period, but it's probable that groups of hunter-gatherers lived in Tohoku as early as the Jomon period, about 10,000 years ago. Every morning, people have to clear the snow from the pavements in front of their houses. They're very disciplined about doing this, shoveling the snow into the gutters. At the beginning of winter, Teiji organises a big day of prayer with a number of local village chiefs to pray for a good rice and apple harvest next year. The 29th year of the Heisai era in the Kumano Sanctuary in Hamanumachi. When I'm a monk, I live according to the rules, but I have no restrictions concerning food or drink. But when I organise prayer days, I purify my soul beforehand. Apart from this very special work, I'm just a normal human being like anybody else. I thank you from the depths of my heart for having consecrated this sanctuary to God. Beginning in January, it snows four to five days a week. Aomori Spring is one of the ski resorts on the slopes of Mount Iwaki. In Tohoku, ski resorts frequently consist of just two buildings, a hotel near the ski slopes and a reception centre that's a combination of locker room, rental facilities and a restaurant. As there's been a heavy snowfall this weekend, Teiji has a good number of clients. To help him with the group, he's called on Hiro, his friend who comes from Sapporo on the neighbouring island of Hokkaido. The key to cross-country skiing is what are called skins. These are often made of synthetic material. Their textured surface allows better traction when the skier is climbing uphill. The first part of the ascent takes a small trail slightly off the beaten track. Hiro's in charge of safety, bringing up the rear. He's a guide and he often goes to France with clients who want to do cross-country. The wind is getting up. Teiji's decided to go into the forest for a little shelter. The group's overall level is quite good. People in this region often ski on weekends. In winter, it snows nearly every day. A light snow, a boon to lovers of powdery snow. Teiji's services are in high demand. Whatever the weather, he knows which trails to take to stay out of the wind and still avoid the crowds at the ski resort. He was born at the foot of the volcano. Later, he took part in high-level competitions. Today, his personality does the rest. After a day spent on the slopes of the volcano, Teiji and his friends go to pray at the Iwaki Shrine. Mount Iwaki was originally a holy mountain for the local Emishi tribes. According to Shinto doctrine, the entire mountain is part of the sanctuary. Founded in 780, the shrine has been rebuilt several times. Symbolically, these snowballs are thrown to drive off demons. Additional shrines have been built around the base of the mountain. I prayed for the health of my family. There's nothing as important as everyone being in good health. Skiing is just a pastime. It's a hobby. But the people who go to the summit of the mountain undertake a more spiritual quest. Of course, this depends on the person. As for myself, every time I reach the summit, I join my hands together in gratitude and I pray. When I'm on Mount Iwaki, I always express my gratitude towards nature and to that which it offers us. Teiji takes his friends to a little restaurant that serves ramen, Japanese noodles served in broth. This is one of the most well-known restaurants in Iwaki. It's busy all day long. The chef is cooking the noodles, which are made of wheat. He serves up the broth while his assistants prepare the large bowls. In this region, the soup is prepared with a stock made from sardines. In the rest of Japan, it's usually made with meat stock. The originality of Tsuguru ramen is that the soup stock is made from dried sardines. Ramen are usually highly spiced, but here the flavor of the fish is so pronounced that it's not necessary to season the noodles as much. That's why we love these ramen. According to custom, in Japan, noodles are slurped, often very noisily. Teiji finishes his day with his third job, ski technician. His workshop is near his house. He sharpens the edges, repairs the soles and waxes the skis. The Japanese are very demanding about their equipment. And here again, Teiji's expertise is known throughout the region. During the summer, I work 100% of the time as a guide. I also work as a monk once or twice a month. During the winter, I work as a guide and instructor 50% of the time and 50% of the time preparing skis. I also work as a monk once or twice a month. During festivals, I'm a full-time monk. I learned how to use this machine when I worked in a sports shop while I was at university in Tokyo. One of the major events of the winter season in Hirosaki is the snow festival at the castle. People make the most of the intense cold and the snow to make ice sculptures. The ramparts and the large gateways are illuminated. These small igloo-shaped ice lanterns are called Kamakuras. They were popularized in the neighboring region of Akita and are very common at winter festivals. Large drawings of recently designed Neputa are exhibited during the festival and exemplify Hirosaki's renown in creating these giant floats. A singular shrine is hidden away in the village of Onizawa. According to legend, it pays homage to a demon. A sort of mountain man who helped the people build a dam in the river below. This morning, everyone's preparing for Hadaka Matsuri, the festival of naked men. This shrine is called Oni Jinja. It means the demon shrine. Yes, it's a very rare name. We say demon, but on close inspection, he's a demon without horns and a rather gentle one at that. This shrine is 400 years old. It is bitterly cold, at about five degrees below zero. But a lot of people have come to support our 40 valiant volunteers. Facing them are three tubs of nearly frozen water. By plunging into the cold water, they'll be purified. The prayers said during the ritual are meant to ensure a good harvest and to protect families. Each participant must plunge eight times into the icy water without drying or warming himself, except next to a nearby straw-fueled fire. The shrine is 400 years old, and this is the 357th time that the ceremony has been held. The cross on the assistants' backs is the Manji, or swastika. This ancient icon is used in temples and shrines as a symbol of love and compassion, certainly not to be confused with the swastika of the Nazis. The ceremony is held at the foot of the Manji, The ceremony, however, is not finished. The priest and his assistants now gather up the Shiminawa. These are lengths of rice straw. These ropes are protection against evil spirits. The 40 brave volunteers can now change into dry loincloths and put on sandals. Now to honour these heroes of the day. They lead the procession around the village, carrying offerings and the Shiminawa. The nearest port to Mount Iwaki is Ajigasawa. It's about 15 kilometres away, towards the Sea of Japan. Despite the snow, the violent winds and the bitter cold, several boats have put out to sea for the day, and when they return, their holds are full. Whatever the season, the boats never stop fishing, particularly for squid. Large quantities of them are eaten here. Kawahagi is a type of fish caught on the coastal sandbanks. It's carefully prepared here. As sashimi, it's delicious. It's also dried and then eaten as it is, or used in soups. At a nearby shop, squid are dried and then grilled. That's a big one. I'll cut it vertically. Normally, I do it horizontally. Yes, I'd like some mayonnaise, thank you. These plants, drying in a warehouse at the foot of Mount Iwaki, are Akebia vines. They're endemic to the Hakoda Mountains and Mount Iwaki. For centuries, the local villagers have used them to weave baskets and other containers. Kuge Miyamoto carries on the family business, passed down from father to son. The Akebi vines from Iwaki are the best. There aren't many of them in other regions, but here they grow profusely and are of very high quality. Our ancestors began this work. That's how it all started. There are two types of production, as here in a workshop or in private households. The village of Igashimea, at the foot of Mount Iwaki, is further north. Here we meet Satoko again, the lady we first met during the summer, planting rice with her husband, Hiroyuki. She works as a ski instructor with Teiji. She also grows apples. It's now mid-February, and when she's not on the ski slopes, she's pruning her trees. They must be fully pruned before the temperature rises in March. We prune the trees during the winter. We cut the branches that'll grow in the spring. That way the flowers and later the fruits can grow properly. The sap then goes to the branches which need it most. It takes about 40 days to prune all the trees. Sometimes it's sunny, but most of the time it's like this, cloudy, it snows. That's how it is. In the long run, it's a little bit sad, really. The quality of the snow has changed slightly over the years. Before it was very light when it fell. Now it's more humid. Before I don't remember any storms during the winter, but now over the past two or three years, in winter we can hear the storms rumbling. Yes, it's changed. In the village, the farmers store their apples in well-protected sheds. Satoko's crop is in a large wooden building. At this time of the year, there aren't many apples left. We produce 20 tons a year. We sell 1,020 kilo boxes, and that's how we support the whole family. Many of the buyers are Satoko's skiing clients. When they're pleased with the skiing, they come here to buy apples. First they pay for their ski lessons. Then they come to buy apples from us. It's a good system. This morning, Satoko has gone to the Aomori Spring Ski Resort to help Teiji with a group of cross-country skiers. Teiji introduces his team, Satoko and Hiro, to his clients. Today, they plan to ascend halfway up the volcano. Any higher up, the winds would be too strong. On the summit of Mount Iwaki, there's a shrine. Every time I go skiing and everything goes well, it's because the gods are with me. I remember that there are gods who watch over me, and I am thankful. I've skied on Mount Iwaki ever since I was small. I feel at home here on the volcano. I'm calm and relaxed. I'm happy here. And this is very comforting. The difference between a guide like Teiji and so many other guides is that he often reminds us that it's thanks to nature's bounty that we have a good life. He makes us feel that he's not just anybody. He's not like everyone else. The northern region of Tohoku is sparsely populated. The region is served by a single-track railway line, a far cry from the high-speed trains linking the larger cities. Schoolchildren delight in taking the train even in the dead of winter. Whatever the weather or the amount of snowfall, the train always runs. The originality of this line is that, at least for some of the train, it still uses the old carriages heated by coal stoves. A stewardess offers to grill dried squid on the stove, imparting a subtle fragrance through the entire car. Satoko likes to show the originality of this train to visitors like Hiro. I eat dried squid. I like it a lot. It's the local speciality and it's really good. When you eat it, the more you chew, the more the flavor comes out. It's very good. The train is used by people who don't have cars and also by the schoolchildren from Goshokarawa. It's very important for them. Schoolchildren generally take the modern carriage, which is better heated. The old Ashonoko Park station is worth a detour. It still sells a few tickets, but it's been transformed into a tea room and has preserved its original furnishings. Today, Teiji wants to take Hiro off to some of his favorite spots. They are nearly inaccessible in winter, except by cross-country skiing and a little bit of effort. This is an otemburo, an outdoor volcanic hot spring bath in the mountains, in which visitors can bathe in heavenly comfort, even when it's freezing cold outside. In Tohoku, it's part of everyday life. In the morning, before work, people go to relax in an onsen. This onsen, which is also an otemburo, is a special place, not only for the body, but for the mind as well. It's relaxing. This is a beautiful place. In big cities, everything moves so fast. Time goes by too quickly. People don't have time to rest and relax. But when they come to a place like this, where time moves more slowly, I hope that they can sense it and relax. I live in Sapporo. The difference between Hokkaido and Tohoku is the culture. Here, traditions are still very much alive. You also eat very well. I'm not saying that it's no longer the case in Hokkaido, but in Tohoku, it's just different. At the foot of Mount Iwaki, Ikuko's restaurant is open even in the middle of winter. She serves many of the vegetables and mushrooms that she picked herself during the previous summer. She dries them, and when needed, they're rehydrated. They taste astonishingly fresh. Kenoshiro is a winter dish, a very thick soup full of vegetables. After having dried the warabi, the ferns, during the summer, they're then rehydrated. They must be cut very finely. They're then boiled in a large pot. When done, stock and miso are added. We eat this dish at every meal here. It's easier for women that way in winter. It's a speciality of Tsugaru. For the soba noodles, her husband harvested the buckwheat late in the season, just before the first frost. This gives a sweet taste to the noodles. The following day, Teiji invites Yukiko, Ikuko's daughter, to join his group of clients. She lives in Tokyo. She's come to enjoy the mountains for the weekend. The sun is still hiding, and it snowed again during the night. Here, there are many spectacular spots. We're surrounded by nature. If you go into the mountains, you're all alone. It's quite mysterious. The snow is magnificent. The people are friendly. That's why I simply adore this region. Here in Tohoku, there's a lot of snow. The seasons are very distinct. Each season has its own uniqueness. Each season has its own specific foods. We have a very special culture. That's something that's not found in large cities. And that's why this region is so magnificent.