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Oh man, you guys are in for a treat today. Check out this crazy SGL drill. 40 times diameter,
straight through, stainless, no peck. We're gonna do it right now. Hey what's up everybody,
this is Titan, Titans of CNC. This right here is the baddest drill on the planet. Those of you
that have a lot of experience in aerospace and complex industries, you guys know deep hole
drilling and stainless is an art. Oh man, this is gonna be good. So before we get started,
I just want to quickly say, if you love the education, please subscribe to our channel.
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All right. So let's get back to deep hole drilling. All right. So the platform is the SGL drill.
You guys already know the SGL drill is a crazy drill for stainless. You guys see me talking
about the go drill all the time and I'm actually drilling Inconel and titanium and Monel and
Hastelloy with the go drill because the go drill is a standard tool. You can drill anything and
it's cost effective. So now when you look at the SGL, you're looking at a drill that probably costs
twice as much as the go drill. So a lot of automotive companies, when they drill a million
holes, the SGL is the go to drill. Now, why would that be when it's at a higher price point?
Because you can drill not only twice as fast in stainless, but you can drill a million more
holes than the go drill. So with the increased productivity, the drill pays for itself
quickly and allows the machine to run forever at high productivity. Now, when we look at the SGL,
we have different sizes. We're going to have a nice stubby drill. That's going to be our pilot
drill. So we're going to step into the material and actually drill down to 1.2 and that drilled
hole will become the pilot for this guy. This size is a 40 times diameter drill. We're going to slow
this guy down so it's not wobbling. We're going to insert it into the pre-drilled hole and right
before we hit the bottom, we're going to turn it to full speed, coolant on, and we're just going to
drive this baby no pecs all the way down. I love my job. Let's do it. All right, so just a few things
before we start this deep drilling cycle. So I pre-drilled this 316 stainless with an SGL stubby
drill. We went Z negative 1.2. Now we're bringing in the beast, 40 times D. It's about to go down.
So when we bring the drill down to the pre-drilled hole, we're going to be at about 10% of the surface
foot and inches per rev because we don't want it moving. I'm not even turning on my through
coolant yet because I don't want any pressure. I just want to have a perfect drill in line with
the hole that I can come down in. All I care about is some lubricity right at that hole.
So once the drill actually enters, we're going to actually drop down to one times diameter which
is approximately 5 16ths of an inch. The top coolant goes off and the through coolant starts
at a thousand psi. Synergy 735 boom. Then we're going to speed it up to 20% and we're going to
feed at 20% just shy of the 1.2. It's incredibly important because I want to make sure that when
the drill hits, I'm approaching slow because what if a chip fell in? When you're drilling
hard materials, a chip alone in the wrong place can ruin everything. As I come down slow and I'm
actually going clockwise which is the same direction that it's going to be drilling in,
if I do engage a chip, I can actually remove it before I hit the surface. When I'm about 30,000
off that surface, I'm actually going to go full speed. So we're at 150 SFM and inches per rev is
at 0.003. And once that happens, we're going. There's no pecs, there's no turning back,
just dropping in Z all the way to the bottom. Now let me talk a little bit about the pilot drill
compared to the deep hole drill. One thing that I want to make very clear is that the pilot drill,
the diameter has to actually be larger than the deep hole drill. Now that might bring some
confusion because both drills are exactly the same size, but they're not. Okay, so check this out.
You got to look at the tolerance, okay? So when Canon Metal actually chose these drills as a pilot
and a deep hole, they looked at the tolerance. And the pilot has a greater tolerance on the high end,
meaning the diameter is bigger and the deep hole drill actually has a tolerance that's on the
lower end which makes it slightly smaller, right? We're just dealing with a few tenths because once
that deep hole drill starts and it's traveling through the hole created by the pilot drill,
you do not want it cutting material. You just want the pre-diameter hugging the deep hole drill
just to position it perfectly. So as it drills the material and it goes deep, it's perfectly
straight. Here's another point that I want to make. It's important that the tip angle of your
pilot drill is greater than the deep hole drill. The reason is we want the center of the drill to
hit first, all right? And that'll allow you to go straight and have a perfectly drilled hole.
If the outside corners hit first, you can chip the corners which will greatly reduce the life of your
drill. When I break through the bottom, I'll slow down to 100 rpms and we'll just pull it back at 50
inches a minute, just being gentle. And then we'll take the entire process and we'll just do two more
holes with the exact same drill. All right, so check this out. The SGL drill looks absolutely
beautiful. The tip, all the cutting edges, the flutes, they look flawless. They look amazing.
And that's after drilling through 316 stainless steel over 12 inches deep right through the bottom.
I grabbed some of the chips. As the drill was dropping down, you could barely even hear any
of the chips coming out. And look at how tiny they are. Like it just breaks those chips so perfectly.
It's amazing. And there you go. The SGL drill, 40 times diameter, no pecking in stainless steel
and high temps. It's the greatest drill I've ever used. And I've used all of them. It's amazing. Boom!