Creality Ender 3 v2 - The Perfect Profile

Hey folks, TechNiverous here. I've had a lot of requests for my Ender 3 V2 profile and today I'm going to give it to you. And we're also going to go over a couple of the settings just so you know which ones can easily be adjusted without affecting the print quality and we're going to do that right now so stay tuned. The TechNiverous channel is brought to you by these fine Patreon supporters. If you'd like to check us out on Patreon, pop over to www.patreon.com slash TechNiverous. That's T-E-C-H-N-I-V-O-R-O-U-S. Here we do our best to stay up to date on the latest and greatest in 3D printing and tech and keep you informed on the latest developments in these sectors. So if you're interested in getting updates on 3D printing or technology such as programming, robotics, artificial intelligence, and things of that nature, make sure you hit that subscribe button down below, leave a like on this video, and comment about what you'd like to see in the future because we make these videos for you. All right, so before we jump too far into it, let me give you an example of the kind of quality you're going to get with this print profile. So this is a Black Paranther bus that I printed at 0.16 millimeters with this profile and as you can see there are virtually no layer lines throughout most of the model. Now on the back here you can see a few of them and it all depends on the angle at which you're viewing it. So they disappear pretty rapidly with just a slight adjustment. This requires very, very minimal finishing. In fact, I wouldn't do any sanding to this model at all on the front here and I honestly wouldn't be too worried about the back either because it wouldn't really be seen. So this is pretty much ready to prime and paint right off of the printer which is amazing. Another quick example is one of my hot end covers. As you can see, this is a pretty high quality print so I think that you guys are going to enjoy using this profile and I will definitely put a link down below, but let's take a look at it. All right, we're going to keep this short and sweet. Basically, you can see here I am in my Ender 3 v2 profile. If you're curious about what these are, we are printing some iPad stand holders for the kids' school. Apparently their iPad cases are all broken so we're going to make sure that this distance learning is a little bit easier. This is a model I knocked up real quick in Fusion 360. Super, super simple but effective. It has two viewing angles for the screen. You can place it on either side and it should do the trick quite nicely, but that's not why we're here. We're here to look at the profile. So let's take a look starting at the top. I'm using a 0.16 millimeter layer height. This is easily adjusted between 0.12 and 0.34, 0.36, right around in there and still get nice print quality. Of course, the more you increase the layer height, the more visible those layer lines are going to be, but you're also going to get a faster print. We're using 0.2 millimeters for the initial layer height because that helps with bed adhesion and it is a very, very simple thing. So the rest of this is all pre-calculated based on these two values. Wall thickness at the moment is at 1.2. If you're doing a model like the Black Panther model, I definitely recommend kicking this up to 5 and that will give you a thicker wall thickness here. It should if it adjusts properly or we could do it this way. And that's not necessary, but if it's something that you want to have that nice outer finish and not have to sand too much, definitely increase the walls a little bit. It does work just fine at 1.2 with three walls as well. And my infill density is set to 20 off the bat. Now I range between 15 and 25 depending on what I'm printing, but 20 is a great place to start. So this profile is pretty much ready to go right out of the gate. We're printing PLA at 205 degrees Celsius and we are leaving the bed at 45 degrees. I haven't had any problems with printer adhesion on this printer. So you can absolutely just turn this off if you're using PLA. You don't even really need the bed on. The adhesion on this bed plate is amazing. Print speed is set to 55 in most cases. This is a quality thing. You get a better print when you slow your prints down. You can slow this down quite a bit more if you'd like to get a little bit more quality. Obviously your print speed is going to be a large determining factor in the overall print time. I have taken this up as high as 80 millimeters per second and still had nice prints. It just gets done a little bit faster and there's nothing wrong with that. The rest of those are pretty much dialed in based on what they are. If you're looking at the retraction settings for this printer, they're pretty much exactly the same as I run on my Ender 3 Pro. So you're looking at enabled retraction 6.5 millimeters at 25 millimeters per second, and that is the retraction speed as well as the prime speed. So that's how fast it pulls it out and how fast it feeds it back in. The rest of these settings are going to be basically based on what you're printing. So enabled print cooling is turned off on the bat. So this is basically a good to go PLA profile. There would be a couple adjustments you want to make to switch to PETG or ABS, but for right now this is a great place to start and I have other videos that will show you what adjustments you need to make there. I have support turned on. As you can see in this model, it is not generating any because there are no overhangs. I need to slice first so you can see. So we'll come back and look at that in a second. You can easily turn support off if you prefer not to print with it. I leave it on most cases because if there's no overhang, it doesn't print it. If there is an overhang, it calculates and prints it. We're using a skirt. This can easily be changed to a brim or a raft without affecting the overall quality of the print as well. The rest is basically up to you. We're going to leave it at that. And as you can see, like I said, no overhangs, no supports, even though it's turned on, it's not printing them because it doesn't need them. So this is a pretty straightforward, short and simple. And to the point, if you'd like to get a hold of this profile, I will have a link to it in the description down below. Go ahead and jump over to my GitHub and hit the download button and you can import it right into Cura. On a side note, don't forget to hit that subscribe button. Leave a like on this video if this profile has been helpful to you. And please, please, please share this profile with everybody you can because I've had a lot of requests for it. And I think there might be a couple of people out there struggling with getting a perfect profile dialed in on the Ender 3 v2. And this one, I can tell you from experience, is going to be spot on. Well, that's it, guys. That's going to wrap up this video. If you've noticed the shirt, the merch is available. Go ahead and check out the Teespring merch link down below. It won't be available on a channel store until I reach 10,000 subscribers. 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