Why Are There So Many Ways to Eat Soybeans in China?

People eat beans all over the world. In Europe, people cook fava beans. In India, people simmer beans into dao. In the Middle East, people grind the chickpeas into hummus. In China, people eat beans too. But here, people have turned them into soy milk, tofu, dried tofu, yuba, fermented tofu, stinky tofu, and much more. Why did one simple bean evolve into so many completely different foods in China? And how are all these foods eaten? That is what we are going to explore in this episode. Long ago in China, one of the most straightforward ways to prepare soybeans was simply to boil and eat them whole. Even today, whole soybeans are still used directly in many dishes. They are with pig's feet, cooked in pork rib soup with kelp, or stir-fried with chili peppers. The recipes have continued to change, but this simple way of eating soybeans has survived to this day. But a whole soybean is not particularly easy to eat. Compared with millet, brown corn millet, rice, and wheat, it is hard and takes a long time to cook, and eating too much of it can be difficult to digest. So if that was the case, why did ancient people keep growing it? Today, we know that soybeans live in a symbiotic relationship with rhizobia, taking part in the nitrogen cycle in the soil. Ancient farmers did not understand the science behind this, but through generations of farming, they noticed something. After soybeans had been grown in the field, other crops planted there afterward could often produce a good harvest. For people whose lives depended on the land, soybeans were not only a source of food, they also helped the soil remain productive. More importantly, when other food was in short supply, soybeans could provide an extra source of nourishment. So they may not have been the most delicious crop, but they remain one of the most valuable crops to keep planting. Unfortunately, China's earliest soybean growers had not yet discovered how to make them truly delicious. Cooked soybeans had to be eaten quickly. If they were left for too long, they would spoil. Most of the time, they would begin to smell bad, but every now and then, a pale colored coat would slowly form on the surface. People at the time did not know what fermentation was, and they had no idea what caused these changes. They could only rely on their eyes, their noses, and their tongues to tell the difference. They discovered that some had simply gone bad, while others had turned into something entirely new. Eventually, people began deliberately recreating this change. By the Han dynasty, written records clearly describe this kind of transformation. They called this food Qi, an early name for fermented soybeans. Over time, more and more people began making it, and it even became a product that could be bought and sold. Today, this food is usually known as Du Qi, or fermented black soybeans. In Guangdong, people use it to steam fish and pork ribs. In Sichuan, Chongqing, Guizhou, Hunan, and nearby regions, Du Qi is also commonly used in stir-fries, such as twice-cooked pork with fermented soybeans, or chili peppers stir-fried with Du Qi. Fermentation changed the flavor of soybeans, made them easier to preserve, and turned them into a seasoning ingredient. But people were not finished transforming soybeans. Later, they discovered a completely different way to process them. Instead of keeping the beans whole, they used a stone mill to grind them down completely. Long ago, people in China were already using grinding stones and stone pestles to process grain. Later, the invention of the rotary stone mill made the grinding easier and far more efficient. People also began using stone mills to grind soybeans that had been soaked in water. Once the hard beans had been ground down, they were easier to cook and easier to eat. Ancient Chinese texts mentioned a food known as shu mi. It was roughly a thick porridge made from beans, but the texture was still quite rough because the soybean pulp remained in the mixture. So people began filtering out the pulp, leaving behind a much smoother liquid. But the leftover soybean pulp was not thrown away. The Hakka, for example, shaped it into cakes and roasted them in hot sand or fried them in oil. In some places, the pulp was simply stir-fried and served as a dish. In times of food shortages, almost no part of the soybean was wasted. The liquid that remained after filtering was brought to a boil and became what Chinese people today call doujiang or soy milk. The most common way to drink soy milk is with sugar alongside fried dough sticks and steamed buns. Because it is affordable and rich in plant-based protein, that is why it has become a popular breakfast choice for many people today. But in China's Yangtze River Delta, many people prefer savory soy milk. They add seaweed, dried shrimp, and chopped scallions to the bowl, then finish it with sesame oil or chili oil, creating layers of flavor and texture. In Putian, there is also a specialty known as stir-fried rice noodles with soy milk. The rice noodles are briefly cooked in boiling soy milk and then removed before being stir-fried with other ingredients. The finished noodles are smooth, springy, and pleasantly chewy with a rich soybean aroma in every bite. With the rise of industrial production and modern packaging, soy milk moved from breakfast stores into supermarkets, sold in bottles and cartons. But soy milk was still only one stop in the soybean's transformation. It was not the final destination. So what would come next? According to legend, more than 2,000 years ago, there was a Chinese prince named Liu An who longed to live forever. At the time, alchemy was believed to be one possible path to immortality, and Liu An believed in it deeply. He gathered a group of people to help him make elixirs, experimenting again and again with different minerals and plants. According to the story, during one of these experiments, someone added a mineral called gypsum to a pot of cooked soy milk. Before long, the liquid soy milk slowly began to thicken, then gradually set until it became a soft, delicate white mass. They tasted it. It had none of the bitterness of an elixir, but instead, a savory flavor soybeans had never had before. And according to legend, that was how an entirely new soybean food was born. If the soy milk is allowed to set without being pressed any further, it becomes tofu nao, a soft tofu pudding familiar across China. In northern regions such as Beijing, Tianjin, and Hebei, people usually top it with a ladle of savory gravy and serve it with fried dough sticks or baked flatbread. For many people, this is how the day begins. But in places such as Guangdong, Guangxi, Jiangsu, and Zhejiang, people are more likely to prefer sweet tofu pudding. Some add a spoonful of white sugar, while others pour over a spoonful of brown sugar syrup. In Sichuan and Chongqing, the tofu pudding is set more firmly. People serve it with a small dish of spiced dipping sauce and eat it with rice. The same bowl of tofu pudding has developed the completely different styles from place to place, but it was still too soft. If people wanted to store it, transport it, or cut it into solid pieces, it needed one more transformation. So, people wrapped the soft curds in cloth, placed them inside a wooden mold, and pressed them down with heavy weight. As more and more water was squeezed out, the soft curds gradually became firmer until they formed a solid block that could be lifted and sliced. This is the tofu people know today. Compared with tofu pudding, tofu was easier to transport and cut and better suited for pan-frying, deep-frying, steaming, and boiling. Several centuries later, as Buddhism became increasingly influential in China, Buddhist monasteries began promoting vegetarian diets. In the 6th century, Emperor Wu of the Liang Dynasty ordered the Buddhist monks to give up alcohol and eat vegetarian food. For monasteries, the challenge was clear. How could they prepare varied satisfying food without using meat? Tofu contained no meat, had a mild flavor, and could be fried, steamed, boiled, or braised, making it ideal for many different vegetarian dishes. Over time, it became an important ingredient in Buddhist monastery cuisine. People used tofu to create meat-like vegetarian foods such as mock chicken and mock duck. The long-term use of tofu in monasteries also helped its production and cooking methods continue to evolve. As Buddhism spread, these techniques gradually moved beyond monastery walls and influenced the everyday cooking across China. Today, tofu has become one of the most common ingredients in China's regional cuisines. In Sichuan, tofu is cooked with chili peppers, sichuan peppercorns, and ground meat to make the bold and spicy dish mapo tofu. In Yangzhou, Jiangsu, chefs slice tofu into strands as thin as hair, place them in a clear broth, and create wensi tofu, a dish famous for its extraordinary knife work. In Hakka communities in southern China, people fill pieces of tofu with seasoned meat, then fry or braise them to make a rich and savory stuffed tofu. But no matter how it was cooked, fresh tofu had one obvious problem, it did not keep for very long. To make tofu last longer and easier to carry, people continued pressing water out of it. As more moisture was removed, the soft tofu became firmer and denser. Today, this soybean food is known as du ga or dry tofu. By the Ming and Qing dynasties, methods for making many different types of dry tofu had already appeared in Chinese written records. After dry tofu appeared, people used spiced brine, smoking, and air drying to change its flavor even further. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, people often slice spiced dry tofu and eat it as it is, or stir-fry it with edamame and shredded pork. In western Hunan, smoked dry tofu is often stir-fried with chili peppers and Chinese cured pork, giving it a salty, smoky flavor and a satisfying chew. In Hubei, people often prefer plain dry tofu. They wrap it around fresh scallions and dip it in a little chili oil. If tofu is pressed even thinner, and even more water is removed, it becomes a thin, flexible soybean product. In different parts of China, it has different names, qian zhang, bai ye, or pressed tofu sheets. It can be served cold, wrapped around different fillings, or added to soups and hot pots. But another transformation takes place before tofu is even formed. When soy milk is heated continuously, a thin film slowly forms on the surface. People gently lift this film away, then hang it up to dry, creating what is known as fuzhu, or dry yuba. Once dried, fuzhu can be stored for a long time. Before eating, it only needs to be soaked in water before it can be added to stews and other dishes. People also fry tofu in hot oil. The intense heat quickly turns the moisture inside into steam, leaving behind countless tiny holes. Today, this is known as yu du fu, or fried tofu puffs. Because its interior is filled with tiny holes, tofu puffs can soak up large amounts of broth and sauce. That is why it is often added to stews and hot pots, or stuffed with fillings and cooked again. By controlling moisture, thickness, and temperature, the same tofu can take on completely different forms. But people also discover that time itself could transform tofu. Before tofu appeared, fermentation and salting were already being used to make foods such as du qi and soybean paste. Fermentation was also widely used to make alcohol. Later, people applied similar techniques to tofu. The tofu was cut into small pieces and left to sit in the right environment. On the surface of the tofu, a layer of fine white mold would slowly begin to grow. Then, people added salt, placed the tofu inside the jar, and left it to rest. Little by little, time transformed it. The tofu became soft and creamy, and its flavor grew deeper and richer. Today, this soybean food is known as fermented tofu, or du fu ru. As early as China's Ming dynasty, methods for making fermented tofu were clearly described in written records. Today, some people eat it with rice porridge, some serve it as a flavorful side dish with rice, and others mix it into sauces, making it part of a larger dish. But the transformations caused by fermentation did not stop there. In Changsha, people soak tofu in a jar of dark brine that has been fermenting for a long time. Afterward, it is removed and then fried, steamed, or boiled. The tofu made this way gives off a powerful and unusual smell. People smelling it for the first time often hesitate, but once they take a bite, the outside is crisp, while the inside is soft and tender, and the rich juices spread through the mouth. For people who love it, this contrast is exactly what makes it so appealing. Today, this food is known as stinky tofu. Beyond Changsha, places such as Xiaoxing, Nanjing, Huizhou, and Yunnan have also developed their own styles of stinky tofu. Some are soaked in brine, some are left to ferment naturally, and others are steamed, fried, or pickled. The methods are different, and so are the smells and textures. From fermented tofu to stinky tofu fermentation, which was originally used to make tofu last longer, unexpectedly created entirely new flavors. People began to understand that food does not always change because of grinding, pressing, or heating. Sometimes, all it needs is the right environment and enough time, and tofu can become a completely different food. Looking back, the soy bean began as a hard bean that took a long time to cook, and was not especially easy to digest. To make it easier to eat, people fermented it, ground it, and filtered it, then turned it into curds, pressed it, dried it, and fried it. And so, the same soy bean eventually became duji, soy milk, tofu, and hundreds of other soybean foods. They can now be found all across China, and have become part of everyday life for countless people. And that is why China has so many different ways of eating soybeans. Alright, that is it for this episode. Thank you for watching, and I will see you in the next one.