Climbing Movement: 16. Opposition vs. Compression | Climbing Tech Tips

An advanced climber uses the forces of opposition and compression to their advantage. These forces can turn holds or positions that seem impossible into usable, climbable surfaces. Let's begin with compression. A simple example of using the forces of compression to your advantage is when climbing aretes or other features that involve squeezing or compressing the rock. While climbing one side of an arete or corner can seem impossible, once you have hands and feet on either side, these features become surprisingly attainable. While climbing a compression route, think of holds in pairs or having relationships. For instance, a right hand side pull feels much better if you have a left hand side pull. Often, a hill hook is utilised to replace that force, allowing the climber to progress up the climb. A great example of using compression on a smaller scale is with steeper climbing, such as Ruth moves. For instance, two hands pulling downwards while using double toe hooks in opposition. Another opposition example is with the foot technique known as bicycle. Both feet are placed on a single hold or two holds typically close together, squeezing the feet in opposite directions. This gives the climber a point of contact that acts as a handhold. Opposition forces are also crucial. This allows climbers to climb up chimneys, off widths and dihedrals. An advanced consideration of this move would be a deep drop knee. With both feet pressing outwards, the climber gains control and a distinct advantage.