AMSTERDAM: THE CITY WHERE EVERYTHING IS ALLOWED!

Amsterdam, the capital of the Netherlands. Some call it the most permissive place on earth. Famous for its coffee shops that aren't coffee shops and a liberal attitude toward vice. As an American teenager dreaming of a Euro trip, Amsterdam was ground zero. A pilgrimage you had to make to experience what you couldn't at home. And while freedom has always been part of Amsterdam's identity, there's so much more. Great food. Centuries of history. The tallest people in the world flying by on bikes. And arguably one of the highest qualities of life in Europe. Here's why Amsterdam's reputation is only half its story. And how to experience one of Europe's most popular cities the right way. And it's just a regular steering. Okay, so forward, neutral, back. That's it, okay. All right, I think I can manage that. I can't believe they're letting me do this right now. I have zero experience driving boats. But yet, here I am. Relatively successful so far. This is really one of the best ways to see Amsterdam. You can take boat tours, but we opted to rent and drive our own boat to have a little bit more control. And it's nice. You can bring wine and cheese and just have yourself a nice afternoon. No. Sorry. The boat doesn't go very fast. So I think like for the most part, the big disasters can be avoided. What do you want? Why are they honking? I'm doing fine. Right now we're really sailing through the center of the city. So we're close to the red light district. You can see all the hustle and bustle. The waterfront restaurants and bars, people hanging out. The summertime in Amsterdam is always very alive because their winters are very dark. The sun sets at four. So at this time of year, everyone is out and about. When you think about Amsterdam, you think of canals. It really is a very charming and defining characteristic of the city. And there are so many canals in Amsterdam. There's over 100 kilometers. And these were built very strategically in the 17th century during the Dutch Golden Age as Amsterdam as a city was expanding. Amsterdam used to be marshland. So this was a way to manage the water. It was also for sanitation and improved transportation and trade, even defense. And today it's what makes Amsterdam a really unique place to visit because there's not many cities built like this. Like right now we're on a boat literally in the center of the city. And there's just a great kind of old world charm. It's really nice on these little rental boats because you can go where the big boats can't. So these narrower waterways where it's a lot more peaceful. Feels really nice. The houses in Amsterdam are instantly recognizable. And this row behind me is a very good example. You can see they're built alongside the canal, just next to each other. And they're very tall, maybe four or five stories, very narrow with big windows. And you see there's hooks on a lot of them. And there's interesting history behind this. So because the houses are so narrow, the staircases are tiny and you can't move furniture or cargo. So they use those hooks to bring those things into the houses. And a lot of the houses actually tilt forward. So when those things are going into the house, they don't scrape the side of it. And in the 17th century, when many of these houses were built, there was a tax incentive that the skinnier the houses were, the less taxes you would pay. So that's why so many of them are so skinny. In Amsterdam, there's over 2,500 houseboats. And there's kind of different styles. They're really sought after real estate. Because as you can imagine, it's quite nice to live on the water. We actually stayed on a houseboat here like six years ago. And it was a great experience. Like it feels like you're in the city, but not really. And we just learned that houseboats started in the 1970s when there was a housing shortage in Amsterdam. And the government solution was houseboats. So now it's a really quirky part of the city. God, it's so beautiful. As an American, you know, we really romanticize Europe. And this is definitely why we do not have historic architecture like this. It just feels like you're transported back to a different time. It's really quite amazing. This is definitely the best way to take it in on a boat. So before traveling to Europe this summer, we wanted to make sure that we had travel gear and clothing that could keep up with our months on the road. That's where the sponsor of today's video, Quince, comes in. We picked up this checked bag from them. And I have been really impressed by the quality so far. It rolls really smoothly. It fits so much inside and it keeps all of our gear protected. Plus, it looks really stylish and minimalistic, which I love. This linen skort has also quickly become one of my favorite pieces. It's super comfortable. It goes with everything. 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By the 1600s, it was the beating heart of the Dutch Golden Age, transforming the country into one of the world's first global superpowers. Dutch merchants sailed to every corner of the globe. Many of the ideas that shaped capitalism as we know it were pioneered here. From the world's first stock exchange to one of the first multinational corporations. Dutch innovation fueled this prosperity. But the empire was also built on colonialism, the transatlantic slave trade, and exploitation of people around the world. Centuries later, Amsterdam was forever changed during World War II. When Nazi occupation devastated the city's Jewish community, the war shifted the country's focus inward toward housing, public transit, education, and a robust social safety net. Today, Amsterdam's streets still reflect the opulence of times past. And the city is known for its exceptional quality of life, as well as its liberal values. Perhaps most visible in De Wallen, better known as the Red Light District. Hello from the Red Light District. This is probably the most notorious neighborhood here in Amsterdam. I've been hearing about this place since I was an early teen. Because in the 2000s and 2010s, when American teenagers were dreaming about the Euro trip, Amsterdam was really at the center of that because of its permissiveness. You know, you've been able to buy cannabis here for a really long time, and sex work is completely legal. It's very interesting because the Red Light District is literally smack down in the center of the city. I've seen sex workers in different parts of the world, but somehow seeing them behind glass kind of presented as a product, that felt really, really different. But that aside, this neighborhood is also the most historic in Amsterdam. The neighborhood came to be because of its proximity to historic Amsterdam ports. You'd have sailors and merchants passing through, and that created demand for taverns and sex workers. And it kind of just stuck. And it's been like this for hundreds of years. And it's an interesting debate, because obviously Amsterdam is more open-minded than anywhere else. I mean, these things are not legal in a lot of places. But it also stems from practicality, because, you know, the government isn't necessarily condoning the behaviors, but they're saying if it's going to happen, you know, we want it to be open and regulated, and thus make it safer for everyone. So you can't film the sex workers for obvious reasons, but from here you can kind of get a vibe of the surroundings. You know, you have the sex-oriented businesses, and then you have the windows where the workers themselves actually present themselves. You have the red lanterns and the red curtains. And it's just very interesting to take in. Like, I wish I could describe it, but you really just have to see it for yourself. There's interesting contrasts everywhere. So there's a big historic church behind me, and then next to it you'll have the windows for the girls. So it's literally like on top of each other. We want to try to find a lady to talk to, just to learn about their experience and what it's like working here. And, you know, kind of being under the Dutch government's eye. So wish us luck. We're literally just going to knock on the windows and ask if they're willing to be on video. Let's see how this goes. We tried walking around the red light district, talking to one of the ladies of the night. Unfortunately, none of them would speak with us, which is perfectly understandable. So to drown our sorrows, we came into this wonderful bar on the corner here. And it's a really good time so far. I'm glad we did. It's a good mix of locals who have been coming here for years, but also people from all over the world, of course, because of the location. I'm like kind of a lightweight because I drank half of this and I'm drunk already. Cheers! I love Amsterdam, but I also hate it at the same time. Well, tell me what your favorite part about the city is. I think my favorite part is the red light district. Sounds maybe a little weird. It's just one of the oldest places here, and they want to make the red light district disappear because some people don't agree with what's happening. But I think it's just part of Amsterdam. What are locals' relationship with the neighborhood and the girls working? We don't really care. Everything is regulated. There are no pimps anymore. So everything is very legal and they make their own money. They can keep their own money. So I think the people around here, the locals don't really have a problem with what's happening. And if the red light district wouldn't be here, then it would also be a problem for most of the cafes and bars, restaurants, because tourists. But it's also like, it's a local neighborhood, right? Cheers! And what's it like working here? Do you like it? I really like it. I only work during the day, but from what I've heard is that the evenings are crazy. 100% tourists, a lot of drinking, a lot of British, crazy British people. The British are known for their British stag parties. Do you think Dutch people are more open-minded? I would say there's one side of people in Amsterdam that are very open-minded and there's another side that's a little less open-minded. But in general, they say everything, you can do anything in Amsterdam. So maybe, yeah, maybe we are open-minded. Okay, and you were telling us about the three X's, right? On the flags everywhere. Okay, what does that mean? Literally translated, we call it the weapon of Amsterdam. Everywhere you will see the three crosses. So it's more like I'm proud to be born and raised in Amsterdam. And what do you think is characteristic of Dutch people? I think we're very direct. I would say that's the biggest thing about Dutch people. We say what we think, but we all have a good heart. We've been having a really good time so far. Our bartender floor is super friendly and nice and all the people sitting at the bar. There was one guy who is 87 years old and has been coming here for 46 years. He looks great. So I guess the secret to eternal youth is Heineken. It's a sunny Sunday morning in Amsterdam and the city is alive. We're in De Pijp, once a working-class neighborhood, now a trendy area, home to one of the biggest open-air markets in the city. Naturally, we're here for a traditional Dutch food tour, starting at a beloved local institution. We are ready to try the most traditional of Dutch foods, raw pickled herring. I don't know if I should be nervous or not because we know Northern Europe is world-renowned for its cuisine and its use of a variety of spices, right? All right, let's see how this goes. They have a variety of seafood and cold seafood salads, which you can see displayed here. I'm wondering what this guy is right here. He looks really interesting. Dutch herring is packed in salt for several days. During that time, natural enzymes break down the fish. Giving it its signature buttery texture and mild flavor. Before serving, it is carefully sliced and deboned. All right, we got the goods. Pickled herring, served classic, and a pickle in a bag. So this is a raw herring and it is not pickled in vinegar. It is cured in a light amount of salt and it's traditionally served with onion, raw, and pickles. Right now, it looks like the texture of smoked salmon or something like that. Go for a big old bite with all the fixings. It's a little slimy, but very fresh. And the pickles are a bit sweet. So it kind of balances out the fishiness and the savoriness of the herring. It's quite good. It's like a little bit more PG than you might expect. Really so cute. Oh my goodness. It's nice with the bread. This is really salty, so it balances it out. Okay, in America we have the hot dog. I think I'll stick with the hot dog. We've come to a cafe with really nice outdoor seating. And in the summertime in Amsterdam, this is one of the best things to do. Just chill out and have a coffee. But we've come here for something very specific, which is a Dutch apple pie. So we have really good apple pie in the States, but this is like the motherland of it. So they do it really well. And this place apparently has a really good one. So I'm excited. Got a cortado. When I'm in Europe, this is like an all-day thing. I have several of these, ideally on patios just like this one. Just puts a little pep in your step. You're getting like tens of thousands of steps a day here. You've got to occasionally fuel up. This is a pretty hearty slice. You can see the layers of apple. And there's a really thick, buttery crust served with whipped cream. It's really good. The crust is really buttery and a little crispy. The apple still has a little bit of crunch and they definitely use cinnamon or something. It's delicious. And it's not too sweet, which is the highest compliment. Bikes are king in Amsterdam. They absolutely run the roads. People here use them for absolutely everything. It is the main form of commuting. And you see, we probably shouldn't be doing this right now. But it's really amazing because the city is so well connected by bike lanes. You truly do not need a car. This is just the best way to get around. And it's absolutely beautiful. The city is perfect for it. It's so flat. So if you come to Amsterdam, 100% rent a bike. There are definitely more bikes here than cars. And I think there's more bikes than people as well. And a fun fact, apparently each year the city takes hundreds, actually thousands of bikes out of the canals. Amsterdam wasn't always like this. I think the bike forwardness really started in the 1970s when there were a lot of traffic accidents and transport options just weren't really good. So the government responded by really improving bike infrastructure. And now biking is just a regular part of life. Being on a bike, I feel like just completely changes your relationship with the city. Like in San Francisco, where we live, we live slightly on the outskirts and we have to drive to do everything. I kind of feel like I'm just like a visitor in my own city, like I'm not really a part of it. But on a bike, you know, you're outside, you're kind of interacting with the other bikers and just seeing what people are doing on the streets and being a part of life. And it's just really nice. I really, really like it. And pro tip, when you're visiting Amsterdam, when you're crossing the street, look both ways before you go. Otherwise, you probably will be mowed down by a bike. That almost happened to me a couple of times when I first arrived. What do you think of when you think of Amsterdam? Canals, probably. Centuries of history. 400 year old architecture. Maybe a lady of the night in the red light district. But just a short free ferry ride away on the city's northern shore is something that will challenge all your expectations. Welcome to the north. This is a very different part of Amsterdam in the north of the city. And it's quite cool. You take a ferry over, it takes less than five minutes, and it's completely free. And it feels like we're in a totally different city. I mean, it's very modern, all new condos. You see a lot of construction and development everywhere. So it's definitely worth checking out. And I'm excited to explore a little bit more today. I like the architecture here. Usually modern architecture can feel a bit soulless, but it seems pretty creative. I like the design. So this is NDSM. It's a former shipyard and now turned creative hub. And the vibe is kind of reminiscent of, you know, revitalized industrial area. I feel like I've been to comparable places in like Berlin and Copenhagen. Some highlights at the NDSM wharf. Massive murals and outdoor installations. Towering cranes and slipways. A legacy of the area's history as the largest shipyard in the Netherlands until it closed in the 1970s. And former warehouses repurposed into galleries, restaurants, and bars. Like Plek, one of NDSM's most popular waterfront hangouts. This spot is so cool. It's called Plek and it's by the water. And it's like a bar, a restaurant, but there's also a little beach here. And I see some people in their bathing suits sunning themselves. So it's just like a really good use of former industrial space. You know, it's like open and airy. I think Amsterdam and Northern Europe is so good at just making like really fun, livable spaces for people. And this is a really good example of that. This is a Campari spritz and it's really good. I was sober for nine months, but I am breaking my dry spell in Europe. It only seems appropriate. You know, as an American, every time I come to Europe, it always just feels like the cities are so alive and people know how to enjoy life. If you've been to cities in the United States, you know, there's pockets that are alive, but on the streets you don't see a lot of people out. And I think that's because our culture is so car centric. So you just don't see as many people on the streets. Whereas here, the public transport is very well connected. And here there's so many bike lanes in Amsterdam specifically. So the city just feels so crowded all the time. And then there's just like a lot more outdoor seating options. So people are really outside at cafes and bars and restaurants. Also in big cities in Europe, businesses and residential areas exist in the same areas. In the U.S., you have specific residential areas and specific areas for businesses. So it's kind of separate. But here, because everything's all mixed together, you know, people are just out and about all the time. It's always just like buzzing, like it's a great atmosphere. I love living in the U.S. too, but I feel like if we can somehow figure that out and make our cities feel more alive, it would be amazing. But again, nowhere's perfect. So it is what it is. It's dirty down there. I'm happy we came here. This area is definitely worth a visit. It reminds me a little bit of Bushwick, Brooklyn, if it were like cleaner and more expansive. You know, sometimes these hipster areas like aren't super worth it, but this one is really cool. And definitely bring your bike because it's pretty big, so it makes it very convenient and it kind of is fun. You know, it feels like you're cycling around like an adult playground. This restaurant is really cool. It's called Muders. It means mother. And you can see that there are thousands of pictures of mothers everywhere, all over the walls and the windows. It's really cool. I like the vibe. It feels very homey, kind of like a diner, but obviously very quirky. And their specialty here is very traditional Dutch food. Learning some fun facts about the restaurant. And all of these photos are actually brought in by guests over the years. So they are real mothers of people who have dined here. And none of the cutlery matches because they were brought by the first people who came when the restaurant opened in 1990. So you can see each plate is a little bit different and all the cups too, which kind of adds to that like cozy, homey vibe. A nice beef carpaccio to start. Just a simple little starter. You got the thin slices of raw beef, of course. Different types of nuts, pumpkin seeds, pine nuts, pecan, some tomatoes and lettuce and a little pesto, it looks like. Oh, wow. That is really, really nice. You get a nice texture with the nuts and that pesto is so fresh. The beef has a nice texture, but I mean, you can barely taste it like a good carpaccio should be, honestly. Food in this part of Europe tends to be very simple and hearty, very meat and potatoes, which is exactly what this is. This is stamppot. So it is a mound of mashed potatoes. This one has sauerkraut inside it. Then there's a pork sausage, a beef meatball and bacon. It's like comparable to Thanksgiving food in the U.S. Very flavorful. Tastes a little bit like a kielbasa, actually. And the potatoes are amazing, like buttery, smooth. I love the sauerkraut inside. Super comforting. Perfect for a cold day. I'm a meat and potatoes girl. I can get down. You're always going to have a good time in Amsterdam, especially in the summer when boats cruise down the canals, cafes spill into the streets, and the entire city seems to come alive. Grab a coffee or beer by the water and watch the bikes glide past. Take in the rhythm of everyday life. Amsterdam is famous for many reasons, but I think the best part about it is the way it makes simple things feel. Maybe that's why I keep coming back.