Pat's Blue Ribbon, 5.13- Hard and Painful Finger Crack Climb

Memories Transcend Time.
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2 Video Views·Jul 21, 2026
Pat's Blue Ribbon is a painful finger crack in Indian Creek, Utah. First established by crack crusher Patrick Kingsbury. In this video we follow Mary Eden jam the very tips of her fingers in the crack to get the send of this thin test piece.
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Video Summary
AI GeneratedThe speaker describes the exhilarating feeling of freedom and excitement while climbing a challenging route. They detail the technical aspects of the climb, including specific gear placements and the physical difficulty of the crux, emphasizing the mental commitment required to handle the potential for a significant fall.
It's like being able to run without a leash.
I'm trying so hard because it feels like being able to run without a leash or like without
a limp.
You know, it feels like freedom.
You're like, hell yeah, let's go, you know, so I'm like really excited.
I feel pent up.
It's a pretty short route.
What is it like 60 feet and the start of it's like a really friendly 0.4 black diamond size.
It's really fun.
It can be really slippy.
Going into the pod and grabbing that jug, which is actually just a loose chalk stone
stuck in the bottom of the pod, but it's not going anywhere.
So I like throw to the back of the chalk stone and then hold and then I can place a cam before
going up into the pod and then I rest in the pod.
Crack size leaving the pod is baby blues, so a 0.3 and then blue metolius.
Blue metolius is tips for me.
And then it goes into 0.2's to green, green Z4, so triple zero Z4.
So it pinches down really quickly.
Climbed up high and I placed a couple of pieces so I don't have to place pieces like when
I'm going for it and I down climbed into the pod and rested.
I fired it through the crux and leaving the crack to the arete, my fingers get stuck,
which completely skins the bottom pad of my finger.
You're going to take a big fall if you fall off that arete onto a blue metolius and 0.3.
I think just because it's committing it can feel heady if you're not dialed in.
