How To Care For The Emperor Scorpion Pandinus imperator

The World of E-xotic Pets
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85 Video Views·Jul 21, 2026
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Video Summary
AI GeneratedThis guide provides a comprehensive overview of caring for the Emperor Scorpion (*Pandinus imperator*), a popular beginner species known for its large size, docile temperament, and low venom potency. It covers essential husbandry, including enclosure setup, temperature and humidity regulation, feeding habits, and safety precautions for handlers.
How do you take care of the emperor scorpion? Well I'm going to tell you everything I know
right now. My name is Richard and today I'm going to tell you everything I know about taking care
of the emperor scorpion, known scientifically as the Pandanus imperator. So let's get into it.
The Pandanus imperator or emperor scorpion is a large species that is native to Africa.
This is one of the most popular scorpions in the hobby and you can regularly find it in pet stores
or at reptile expos as it is favored as a great beginner species due to the size, temperament,
ease of care, and low venom potency. They are not great for handling but they are amazing to watch.
This species looks very similar to its cousin the Pandanus vitoris or the red cave scorpion
that is also from Africa but the red cave scorpion seems to be a little smaller in size
and their claws are more red in color with hints of blue. This species is also often mistaken for
the Asian forest scorpion with many pet stores mislabeling them and selling Asian forest scorpions
as emperor scorpions. Now Asian forest scorpions are a little bit smaller and they're more
territorial so they're slightly more aggressive than the pea imperator. Emperor scorpions have
rough pincers which also tend to be shorter but thicker than the Asian forest. The Asian forest
scorpion lacks the red coloration that emperor scorpion pincers often exhibit and their telson
and aculeus are black while emperor scorpions tend to have yellow to a reddish yellow amber
telson as juveniles that turn red as they mature. Even as babies there's a distinct visual difference
as emperor scorpion babies usually show quite visible red pigmentation in their pincers which
is completely absent in baby Asian forest scorpions as they are very black. The emperor scorpion grows
about six inches in size with some claiming up to over seven and a half inches and they can
live between six to eight years. They may be the largest scorpion in the world but the longest
scorpion is actually the flat rock scorpion. Compared to other scorpions the emperor scorpion
is not nearly as hot as other species meaning its venom is not as dangerous or painful if you were
to get stung. In fact you probably won't feel much discomfort or have any serious problems unless
you're allergic and have an anaphylactic reaction. In my experience they seem much more likely to
pinch you than try to sting you. What's very interesting is some molecules that make up their
venom are currently under research as scientists believe they could have properties that would be
They have large powerful claws so a pinch could be painful but they are a mostly docile species
and only attempt to pinch or sting when they feel threatened. The risk of handling the species is
more due to the harm that could come to the scorpion than the harm they could inflict on
the handler. Like tarantulas scorpions can bolt short distances usually faster than you can react
and they have an exoskeleton that is not designed to handle falls from substantial heights. They
spend most of their time burrowed underground and coming out at night to crawl around on the surface.
They are not arboreal meaning they aren't normally climbing high into trees so when handling a
scorpion if it were to suddenly bolt it is very possible that it could fall off your hand or arm
and risk rupture once it hits the ground. So it is always best to avoid handling unless you take
precautions like handling over a table or while sitting on the ground to greatly reduce the
distance of a fall should the scorpion attempt to get away from you. Pea imperators can be found in
Africa and live in areas that are warm and humid. Naturally they prefer living in small burrows that
were made by small rodents or snakes and sometimes they'll dig them out themselves. So when you set
up their enclosure these are two facts you need to keep in mind. I keep my adult emperors in a
10-gallon aquarium filled at least halfway or more with substrate. Knowing that they need a little
more humidity and will be digging burrows I tend to use a mix of slightly damp cocoa fiber mixed
half and half with peat moss. I have also had a lot of success using creature soil or jungle mix
as pre-made substrates and mixing in a little sand and a few handfuls of sphagnum moss. I dampen the
substrate so that it feels wet but water does not come out when I squeeze it in my fist. I pack the
substrate down slightly and provide two hides on opposite sides of the enclosure. I provide a large
but shallow water dish that I keep full of water. You don't want to use a deep water dish or one
that the scorpion will have issues getting in and out of because they can drown if they get trapped
in a large water dish. I will link the types of water dishes that I've had success with down below
in the description. Now these can be a bit of a hassle due to the fact that the water evaporates
quickly because it's so shallow but it is for the safety of your scorpion. I use two hides because I
keep a dry side and a damp side in their enclosures. On the damp side I also add a nice nest of sphagnum
moss in the corner to help keep humidity up and when I notice the substrate is drying out I will
water down that side so that it gets saturated but never swampy. The other side I will let dry out and
I find my scorpion will alternate which hide it spends its time in based on their preference for
humidity at the time. For the most part this species can be kept at room temperature between
69 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit but some people prefer to add a little additional heat for their
scorpions. If you keep their enclosures in the basement like I do or in a cool part of your house
or maybe it's just winter and the room temperatures are on the lower end of the acceptable range
you may consider adding an under tank heater. This seems to be hotly debated in the scorpion
community because it can be dangerous if it's not done right. To escape heat and to cool off
scorpions will usually retreat to their burrow and dig deeper because the deeper they go the
cooler it normally gets. If you use an under tank heater and actually place it under the tank then it
will get warmer the deeper the scorpion digs. So it is recommended you place the heat pad on the side
of the enclosure to get a horizontal temperature gradient. The side the heat pad is on will be
warmest right up against the glass and cooler on the other side against the wall. Having hides on
either side of the enclosure gives them the choice of not only a damp hide and a dry hide but also a
warm side and a cool side. Another important factor when using an under tank heater is that
they are always on. So you should use a thermostat and place the sensor at the level your scorpion
will be in its hide and then plug the heat mat into that thermostat and set the temperature around
85 to 90 degrees. I avoid using any heat lights in my enclosures as it's very difficult to regulate
the temperature and I find that the heat light seems to dry the air out considerably. You also
need to make sure that you have a tight fitting lid that can lock and is very sturdy. These
scorpions are strong and can lift the lid of an enclosure that isn't tightly locked down and
squeeze through the small spaces. As far as feeding is concerned I base it mostly off the appearance
of the scorpion at all stages of life. For adults I will feed them three to four large crickets or a
medium dubia roach once every week or two. Once they begin to start looking plump I will cut back
on the amount as well as the frequency but if they are looking thin and seem very excited to
take down their prey I will increase the amount or size of the feeders that I give them. For young
scorpions it is important to never attempt to feed them prey that is larger than they are. I typically
use feeders that are half their size or no more than three quarters their size. If they don't eat
the prey within 12 to 24 hours then I remove the prey so it doesn't provide unneeded stress and
then I'll try again in a week. Due to the tropical environment in the enclosure it's important to
remove dead and uneaten prey or any leftovers as soon as possible as that can attract mites, mold
and gnats. Another viable option is to keep this species in a bioactive enclosure. Springtails will
thrive in the damp substrate and work as a cleanup crew to help break down any organic materials.
Some people like to also include isopods but that can be a little risky as isopods need calcium in
their diet and there are some reports of certain species of isopods turning to the scorpion
especially once it's molting to feed on them for their calcium and if you create a bioactive
enclosure with living plants they will need a light source so you will need plenty of dark
hides for your scorpion to retreat to. There are some reports that this species can be kept in a
communal enclosure successfully but usually it is not recommended. Like most scorpions they can be
territorial and exhibit cannibalism if not well fed and kept in close proximity. If you keep four
or five of them in a 20 gallon enclosure with a few more hides than there are scorpions and keep
them well fed you may be successful. Another reason it may not be recommended to keep them
communally is because when you have male and females together you may end up with a lot of
baby scorpions more than you're prepared to care for so only consider keeping them communally if
you've done your research and have successfully kept one single specimen for an extended amount
of time. Overall this is an awesome species and very easy to take care of. They are hardy, large
and fairly docile not to mention that they're gorgeous and a lot of fun to keep and to watch.
If you're looking for your very first scorpion the emperor scorpion would be fairly high on my
list of suggestions. Well hopefully this video answered a lot of your care and husbandry questions
but if there's something that I didn't cover make sure to ask that question down below in the
comments. If you have any experience keeping this species either individually or as a communal
please share your experience down below in the comments as well. It would be great to get a
husbandry conversation started down below. If you want to see other videos I've done on different
scorpion species just check out this playlist right here and if you want to catch up on all
the past episodes from the Exotic Pet Collective check out this playlist right here. Be sure to
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