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What's going on Faded Culture? We're back with another tutorial. Today we got
student Gabe here from Faded Culture Academy and we got a huge transformation
on this taper fade. I hope you enjoy and let's jump right
into it.
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Yeah, I got you. What's the reference? You want to do like short like that, like a
you know what I mean, a messy tapered look like that. The c-cups pop out. Yeah, we
don't have to edge up the forehead but the c-cups look nice edged up. Yeah,
just like right here, like lower. Like forward and messy? Yeah. Okay, I think we
can do that. All right Gabe, how would you start
something like this, bro? Man, dude. He said man, dude. I would definitely
have to wet a section of hair. All right, cool. Go ahead, just grab your
bottle. Okay, like detangle it a little bit.
Just so I can run the comb through. It's just the waves that are kind of tangled
in a little bit. When the hair is like really, really curly,
I usually run my finger through because have you had hair where you can't even
run the comb through? It's just, dude, it's so curly or like so
thick that you can't even run the actual brush through it.
What would be your first section? I'd probably just part it down the middle.
Okay. Do the profile section and then I'd do the radial section
like going down the side. Okay. And then like the top to the sides
and then that's what I would start with. I think something that could help you to
speed up the process is because it is so long and rather than
having a section something this long and like saturate something this long,
we could technically already go in and start like literally just
dry cutting. Like I can literally cut this and now that gives us less hair
to actually saturate and section. True. You know what I mean? So you want to go ahead
and try that? Yeah. The only thing I would mention is
this haircut is tailored around the perimeter, the fringe,
so I would just make sure that we don't cut that too low, right? So I would grab
it. I'll literally grab all of this. So would
you do something like maybe because like whenever the fringe is like
the focal point? Correct. I sometimes would do that just like
main like keep that out? Yeah, you can. But in this case, so like for instance,
all right, we already established that it's going to be right there where the
C-cup's at, right? So even if I do grab it from here now that
you already sectioned it, we can see I at least want to leave this. So now I
can grab this along with everything else, pull out just a little bit to make sure
and boom now I can at least get rid of all that. And now when I come back and
establish my fringe now I got less to work with
just all around. Just make sure we're leaving those blank. Yeah.
And if you're ever skeptical like is this too much, then obviously just pull
out more. Yeah, easy. And then, yeah, exactly. And
then even this from down the bottom. Boom. Yeah, and you can just take that all
around. Yeah, try to debulk as much as possible
while still keeping the end in mind. Yeah. Way better starting point. And it's less
like daunting, right? It's like less, it's not as overwhelming from the beginning
like. Yeah, looking at this is like it's a lot
to tackle. Yeah, exactly.
Let me think about that. Yeah, I think that's good. All right, go ahead and start
saturating. I wouldn't be like super worried about
like where it's like where I'm pulling, like what hair I'm
pulling. Okay. I'm just trying to establish like a length first.
Instead of cutting right there, I would still pull a little bit lower. Yeah.
I like too how you grabbed this section from over here. That's good. We left it
long enough to probably coil it to like right there
right where we need it. What helped you the most when learning
how to section besides doing it a million times?
Doing it a million times. Right, that's pretty much the secret.
What I've seen like a lot of people like including me too like
have questions about at the school. Yeah. Is like
the delta section, like why a delta? Yeah. Because everybody understands a horseshoe
and box I feel like. Yeah. But like the delta is like the
special one, you know. The special one. It's my favorite. I feel like honestly I
can, you can achieve most like 80, 90 percent of the hair cuts with
the delta. Actually like starting to like get to this point, I'd probably cut the
sides first, the side and the back. Yeah. And the way I would do this and an
easy way for me is I would grab a horizontal section right
here, right under the parietal. And I would establish my length there,
follow that, use that as my guide, and then just connect to that. The reason I
would start my guide down here is because I want to make sure that when I
actually come diagonal, I'm not cutting into this length.
So you would do diagonal sections for the haircut?
Yeah, I can easily do diagonal sections because that doesn't,
it wouldn't make a big difference, right? So like I could
diagonal or I could do horizontal, but my point is I'm gonna first come in and
set it my guide right here. Okay. And then that's it. I'm not
gonna cut nothing from up here no more. So even if you do do horizontal, right, I
would chop this, come all around, and then I would just grab my section under
and then match it. Okay, cool. Let's try that. I definitely like
horizontal or diagonal sectioning is or like cutting sections is like
not what I do often. Not your thing. Right here though, the only thing I would keep
in mind is you're doing like my finger angle
according to the head right here. So personally, I would probably, just so I
can still make sure that I'm preserving this,
I would probably have my finger angle like this.
Just a little bit so I can preserve more length. Just on this side.
Okay. You see how I'm preserving more length here versus here? Yeah, just so I
can preserve that. And then at the end, I'll touch up if I
need to. Just because everything, like you said, this haircut is very centered
with the fringe. Yeah, like that. And then that would be my guide all around the
head. So I would just follow that and then
stay under the occipital to make sure that I preserve all of this.
Sorry if I smell like coffee, bro. It's okay. I drank coffee this morning too.
I remember I used to hate being in school and then my teacher would come up to me
and help me. I would hate to ask for help because she'd just come up and
coffee breath in my face. I'm like, you know what? I'll figure it out.
And now I'm the teacher with the coffee breath in Gabe's face. We had this
one teacher in high school and he was my English teacher. Yeah.
And he was the only one in the school that had like a doctorate's degree.
Everybody knew he smoked weed. He was smoking weed in like the parking lot and
stuff. Jesus. And he would come up to us and try to
get in our face. Come on, man. You smell terrible.
That's hilarious. You see what you're doing here though? Do you understand the
why? Yeah. Trying to like keep that length
correct. So we don't like expose the occipital wall. Correct.
I think. No, I know. That's actually good. And that's going to be used, like you
said, as our guide for the rest of the hair
that's laying under. But now we preserve length. We preserve
the weight. What's one thing that you didn't know
Kind of like everything there is to know. Yeah. Like sectioning,
angle, everything. Like kinetics. All the kinetics. Because whenever I used to do
like sheer work before I came to the school. Yeah.
It was kind of just pull and chop. That's what I would tell my clients. Like
hey bro, this isn't going to be the best. And I'd call it my pull and chop.
Your pull and chop. I feel like the amount of weight that we were about to
leave is probably a little too much for the
outcome that we're trying to get. But it's just a little bit more. Nothing
crazy, honestly. Okay. So at like this point, like the
haircut, are you being like super precise? Yeah, a little more. I
feel like the first one's a rough draft. So like what you put in was like a clean
rough draft and now it's like just refine it and then we'll set in.
Okay. But yeah, this is basically I'm just finalizing the guide
before we move forward. So learning all the kinetics is what's helped.
Yeah. And then I also like, I still do even like
with years under my belt of cutting hair, like I go home and like
I'll kind of like super self-analyze the haircuts that I do to try and find
flaws. Like I'm not trying to see if it's perfect. I'm trying to
see where I messed up, what could have been better. And then I'll like try to
like go over with myself like what I could
have done better to fix that. Yeah. And what's been like one of those
things that like you're like, oh okay, I'm gonna do this now?
Yeah, it's like whenever I do that, it definitely helps when the client comes
back in because now I know exactly on their
head where I need to change something. Now we have our guide. We could
either come horizontal and still pull this hair up and follow
that or you can do diagonal. And now we have our guide sitting at the
top. You see that? Yeah. But now we're
preserving everything that we initially did from the parietal
and then up into the crown. So no matter where I pull diagonal,
I have my guide sitting at the top. So like
for this, like what is your guide? Like where, what hair are you looking for
to be your guide? Like what did I, like why did I even establish the length here?
Yeah, like if I pull this section and then I look at it, am I using like
this length as my guide right here? Yes, the top length, like the shortest
length basically. So maybe like right here would be like
my guide right there? Correct. Because that was my
horizontal line. That's where it was sitting. Okay.
If I pull, there's my guide. Are you looking for the shortest length
that we established? Correct. I'm gonna taper all of this so it doesn't really
matter again, but it's a good example. I could have gone
shorter right there intentionally. To a setup for the taper?
Correct. You see my guide still right there?
One thing I'm, I'm just coming straight out the head.
I'm not, there's no more crazy finger angle. The only angle is
here. Okay. It's not this no more. It's just straight out? Yeah, I don't need to
try to preserve anything that's already preserved
from my horizontal line. Oh. Does that make sense?
Yeah. So now I can just comb. As long as you just don't cut that part of the hair.
Exactly. Are you connecting this to like the previous section?
Yes, in a way. I mean that's just the way I'm combing it, but you don't have to no
more. It's not like intentional? I don't, I don't need to over, yeah, I don't need to
over direct no more to the previous because I have my, my,
my guide already. Okay, yeah, okay, yeah, yeah, yeah.
Does that make sense? So it's slightly different. We're not using this as a guide, it's this as a guide.
Yes, exactly. But if we didn't set the perimeter guide line,
that's when we would have to over direct. Yes, exactly, and that's when you need to do
this too, to preserve. You see that? I'm smart. To preserve. So
instead of you having to preserve every time like this,
we already did it by doing this. Gotcha. You caught on.
Something clicked for you, huh? Yeah, it did because I would definitely then
over direct. I'd probably build up too much weight and end up chopping that.
So I guess if you're like just looking at it, you wouldn't have to
cut anything above this visual weight line? Yes. It's just everything that's like
below it? Exactly, and that's the reason I went in and
refined what you did. So we could better see it? Exactly, and it was initially a little
too low. Okay. You know what I mean? Yeah. And this I
can bring out to the head because again, I'm going to taper it.
We're going to refine all of that. I think this is a good enough length to
blow out. So yeah, you see what we're doing now? Yeah.
Making sense? Yep. And then right there, because his hair's wavy, you can see like
where the short length is perfectly. Man, it's crazy to watch y'all's
tutorials in a day over here. And then see them in person? Yeah. See my
guides right there. So you wouldn't cut any of that? Nah, I
don't need to. I need to start trimming this to connect
it to that. Gotcha. You're gonna take it from here? You're gonna try it?
I feel like that's something probably a lot of people don't understand, including
myself. Okay, gotcha. Remember, we don't have to
finger angle no more as much. Yeah, we can just kind of come
straight out of it. So like that right there? Yeah, and there's your guide.
Perfect. You can still see your guide, right? You see it through? Right there.
Yes, exactly. It's crazy to just how you say that
you're now seeing it in person, but I think it's dope too that you were once
initially in school and then now you're actually at the
Fader Culture Academy. It's actually, I think about it a lot
actually. The first time I ever cut hair, I never watched a tutorial ever.
I kind of just winged it. Yeah. And then it came out really bad. It came
out really bad. And I looked up how to do a fade.
And y'all's videos were the first one to show up. And then after that, I
just loved everything about Fader Culture.
And then dude, now being part of it, I just feel like
it's crazy how it circles back. So if you don't know already,
we do have a program. We will link in the description down below.
If you're not in Texas and still want to learn our four pillars,
you still want a deeper dive into education
and longer length tutorials, there is a link down below.
It's on a platform called Skool where you can subscribe. You can also submit
pictures of your own haircuts and my brother and I
or students like Gabe will go on there and give you actual live feedback.
You do get seven days for free, so make sure to check it out.
That looks good like that? Yeah, it's good. And we're gonna blow all of this out
anyways. Be like that. But yeah, looks good. Dude,
this is always the worst side. I usually start with my worst side, to be
honest. I usually start with the left side.
Whenever it comes to haircuts, I usually start with what I think mentally is the
hardest. So if it's the back, if it's the left
side, because diagonal back on the left side is a little bit harder.
Always combing into the direction that we're gonna section.
Remember, each section too is about a comb's width.
So when you and your brother started cutting hair, being like the king
of tutorials on YouTube, was that always in your mind?
Honestly, yes. Just because I felt like
there was a gap. I don't know. I truly felt like there was a creative gap
within the tutorial world on YouTube. I feel
like there's been dope people that actually have done it
before us, but I think just from the beginning, I was
like, dude, there's not two brothers in the industry who are doing
this. I feel like that already gave us an edge
to help us stand out. But I mean, yeah, dude, from the very beginning,
it's crazy because my brother and I both have OCD with certain things
and it works, man. Because there's things where he's
super particular about that I'm like, dude, nobody's even seen that.
And then vice versa, there's things where I'm like, no, we're gonna reshoot that. We
need to redo it again. And he's like, dude, nobody cares. And that's been like
that from the beginning. And it's been like that from the beginning. We get that
from my mom, dude. My mom has a strong OCD with certain things. Like
my mom, when she writes a letter, if she misspells something, she'll crumble it
all up and start again. Dude. Yeah, we're pretty
much done with the sides. So I know that looks crazy, but we're
gonna come in, taper this out. We're still gonna debulk this with the
clippers and that leaves us with the amount of length and weight that we
needed all around the parietal and the crown. I think for the top,
I would... Go ahead, you can unclip it. I'd probably unclip it
and then split it down the middle and comb it to each side and then connect
that to here so I know it's not overlaying it. Correct. Because then it
would be too long. Correct. And then I'd cut the top. Yeah. Now
that we have like the... Yeah. Yeah, exactly.
So I would do a center profile and then finish connecting.
So always comb in the direction that you want a section.
I need to get that tattered on me. Here I'm doing a center profile
and this in order to connect. Yeah, exactly. Do you ever get like
intimidated by certain haircuts anymore? Yes and no. I feel like
no for the most part because I understand a lot of the fundamentals.
There's some customers that no matter... Like I'm huge on consultation.
But like for instance, I have this one friend. I should say his name and blast
him though. I know I've had to tell a lot of people
like when they show me like a reference picture, I had to like explain to them
like that's a hairstyle, not a haircut. Yeah, exactly. You know like that spiky
look. Like I can cut it like that, but if you're not styling it like that
then it doesn't matter. Come back to me, you know. Yeah, exactly.
Thank you. Shout outs to everyone who makes a purchase at fadedculture.com.
Mailman just came. Then I would pull like my center profile cutting section
and then I'd establish my top length and then I would
then pull my vertical sections or my horizontal sections.
Got it. Connect that. Got it. Oh, you just cut the middle.
Correct. Connect the side to the side. Connect this so I can pull
and I can see my guide right there. Boom. You see my shortest guide right there?
Yeah. See how it seeps through a little bit? Yeah. Yeah, that would be it and then I
would just chop that. Oh, that's easy. And then you just kind of
like comb back. Yeah. And move back in the head. Exactly.
And then we could still crop. Look, see how it's right there? That's what we use
to connect. And then cutting like this right here
without taking like super precise sections, that's when like you would
definitely have to cross check, right? Yeah, I would cross check.
Or you could still even do what you said just to like be that much more precise.
But it goes back to how we were saying how shear work is. Yeah, and it's like a
messy style too. Yeah. I learned this from a hairbender.
If you see the way he cuts, man, it's very like he understands the principles so
much. But what's cool is you can still come
and just refine it. Start with the back taper,
bulk first. Make sure I stop right there. Using my comb to help push that hair
down. And then from there I can actually lay
my guard down. I have no guard lever still open. Still
kind of deep open to be honest. Here I'm going to set in my first
guideline. Yeah, there's no fade right now that you feel like you've struggled
with? No, not really. You're just a bro now.
I try. I think if anything when fading is just connecting it to length,
like the top length. Got it. I wouldn't say I really struggle with it. It's just
more like sometimes it's not as good as I want it
to be. Got it. So I guess yeah, it's a small struggle I have. Just
connecting shorter lengths to longer lengths.
Yeah, like if they have like this right here, like I can connect it. It just
won't look what you want it to look. Yeah, it won't
look like what I have pictured in my head.
Do you think it was when I was doing the clipper over comb part or like? The back
I get good most of the time. It's definitely the sides because it's like
less space because like I have all of this
like space to connect it. With this side I just have an inch and a half or two
inches. Got it. Especially if they're asking for
like a mid taper or something on the side where like
it's coming up even like a low taper. Yeah, got it.
Hopefully we could answer that today. Whenever I run across I just recommend
cutting the top shorter. Makes it easier for me. That's hilarious. It reminds me of
there's been a few times where I used to cut some people up and
they would ask for tapers and I would just struggle bro. I don't know what it
was with tapers. It was my biggest struggle.
We'd end up just turning all of them into fades. Yeah, they ask for something I
don't know how to do. I just tell them hey man I don't think it's gonna fit your
head shape. That's hilarious. You should probably just get a mohawk
bro. Just the amount of experience I have bro. I feel like it just suits you.
Use big words to scare them man. They'll disagree.
It's because your occipital bro is just. Yeah, it's connecting the occipital bone to
the parietal ridge man. It's just not really doing it.
What fade do you use right now Gabe? The same one as y'all's.
I definitely used to like set it the bald line with a trimmer
and I never really struggled to like fade that out but once I started like
doing y'all's method. Yeah. The bald line just erases
like so easy. Okay. Yeah, I've just been doing that.
Once you started doing our method the bald line erases so easy.
I don't struggle but I definitely have to like pay extra close attention
fading out the bald line because like I don't have like
a top limit. So like just being extra like detailed
while like fading that line out. But it forces you to think of the kinetics.
Angle, tilt, clipper tilt, your pressure. I know like clipper angle like is like
the biggest thing. The more I angle it like the higher I can
go in the fade. Yeah, exactly. Yeah, that's funny they say
that. I've done tutorials where I'm literally showing that. Where I'm like
look how high I am but I can achieve this because
my angle and my pressure have changed.
So when you're fading this out right here like what are you looking for
specifically? In my head I'm already with like the end in mind of like okay
how far up do I need to take this to still make it look clean.
I think that's just developed through time. Yeah,
keeping the end in mind because of the fact that like sometimes when I tell
people the three-step process for that last line
they stay way too low and sometimes like it just hair cutting is not perfect. It's
not a like a one one plus one equals two. So
sometimes I need to stretch out that first step and then compress the
half guard or the lever halfway and then I don't need to do the
open fully sometimes. Like it's just this last three steps always vary man.
And at the top are you like coming out with the clipper right there? Yeah 100%
and my pressure is super light. It's almost like once I get that high
I'm gliding over the hair. I'm not even touching the scalp.
After I debulk. Lately I've been trying to like
connect the late before I start the fade connect the debulking length
into the top length. Okay. And it's just like I'll bring the two up
to like right here probably. Okay. And then just connecting that two length
because that two is like that short into like something that's this long.
Got it. And just like doing that in like this much space is just like
takes me more time than it should. Got it. I'll come in with my two to debulk
and I'm gonna taper all of this. Is there like a guard length that you like
use to like preserve length for the C-cut? Two. Usually a two. A two is good. Even a three
depending on the hair texture. Some people have it very light. But like two
generally is like good. It's a good median of like short enough to where I
can line this up but long enough to where
it's still dark. But you see here even with my two guard as I'm debulking I'm
focusing on shape. I'm not just digging in. I digged in down here and as I come
up here and because it is just a debulk. And with this are you trying to like be
more precise than like just rough draft or? Yeah. Yeah because see I feel like now
that left me clean enough to just put the taper in. I see. If you look on the
side right here like that doesn't connect I would like super
thin I would like start chasing that. It's an intentional disconnect because
of the style that we're trying to do. Gotcha. Okay. That's one thing that took
me a while to understand too is learning how to be intentionally disconnected
because with fades that's all you think about is like the blend. Yeah. And then
what I like to do when they get these type of haircuts is
set in my perimeter even with the trimmer so I can see where my
taper is exactly going to be. And do it for mid taper on the side?
Yeah. The picture was a little bit like a mid to high taper. So usually that
intentional disconnect is what throws you off.
Yeah for sure. Even here with the one dude I'm already trying to
like yes I'm creating space but I'm not so much trying to create like a harsh
guideline. I'm already trying to connect into what
I did with the two guard.
So with being like more like not like as precise with those like guards that you
just went through you just like worry about like the
precision with the detailing process? Yeah because it's like in my head I'm
being precise because I know exactly what I'm looking for and doing with
those guards. It doesn't look to the outside that I'm
being precise but it's like again when it comes to setting up the foundation
I'm not trying to create harsh guidelines. They're there just to
give me room and space to set up the actual fade. Does that make sense a
little bit? Yeah.
And see once I set in the fade I can just come in and do any touch-up work.
That's pretty much it.
You want to attempt the other side Gabe? Yeah.
All right Gabe let's step into the taper. So what would you do? I want to make sure
that you don't over cut. Yeah I would take my two guard probably
up into like right here. Okay perfect and then what I would highly suggest too
is let's grab a small section just to make sure we don't cut the fringe
and already move it to the side just in case.
Gotcha. So now we're worried about here. I believe in you Gabe.
Yeah see I like how you're already starting to vamp out. That's exactly what
I did.
What advice you got for a beginner barber Gabe?
How long have you been cutting now? Almost three years. Three years?
Just gave everyone free haircut. You're catching up to me bro. You're catching up to me.
I try to tell everyone dude like I didn't charge anything for seven months
you know like just do it for free until you're good at it.
Yeah. Just get your reps in. I tell people that nowadays and they're just
like I think they get into this industry
wanting to make so much money so when I tell them something like that it just
throws them off. Yeah. They're like what?
Do you think you could do some of that or you could do it better? You could do it
better right? For sure. Because you'll probably have
like girls in the background and it'd be crazy. It'd be a party. Are you camera shy?
A little bit. Just take a shot it'll go away. Don't take a shot.
So I kind of like. What do you do bro? I'd like open the
clipper just a little bit. Yeah. Before I fade out that bottom line.
Somebody asked me that the other day because sometimes the three-step
process changes. Sometimes we start with the lever closed. Sometimes we start with
it at one-fourth and I told them exactly do that. Start
with it at one-fourth and play it safe.
I do want to make a hair girl soon. Yeah? Yeah.
Because my idea is like I cut their hair and instead of aftershave I put that on
so it goes back faster and they come back.
Then I cut their hair again. Do I feel like it matters what barbershop you
decide to work at? A hundred percent. It really depends on
your intentions. You know what I mean? I think it's one of
those things like your environment does play a big part.
That looks really good. No it looks fire. I think that has a lot to do with as
well like knowing yourself more than anything.
Like are you somebody who's susceptible to being influenced by those around you?
If you are then you know better. What are you doing there? If you're not
then again you're in there with an intention to get clients make money and
get out. But willpower is depleting so no matter
like eventually you're gonna fall. You know
what I mean? The longer you stay there. Nice. How's that look? Only thing I see is a
little weight line right here. The very top. Not bad. And then
we can just go over this a little bit more. Yeah.
That's something I do struggle with is like lining up like bulk
or like sometimes just behind the ear. So like
yeah okay. Now you see it? You want to try it? Go ahead. You already ran the
electric shaver on there? Down here? Yeah. Yeah. Okay perfect.
Fire. That's better like that right? Yeah it's definitely more even. Just kind of
now yeah now right there just above the ear.
Yeah exactly. Try to soften that little weight line at the very top and
that'll be it. The only thing you got to be wary is like
I saw how you combed it down which is good but that's not how he's gonna style
it. So it's like I like to kind of see like okay if he's gonna have it messy
how how does it lay now? What is it doing?
So if he's gonna have it something like that and blown out
then I like to see how it looks because sometimes if I do this
I'm gonna cut too much and then when he styles it it's gonna be super short here.
Gotcha. You know what I mean? Yeah. Can you see how it's not as much now?
Peace. Put some talk on that thing. Let's dust him off.
Before I style it I want to show it to him and we'll just hit it with the blade.
Man it's a really long. You grab the duster like that?
I've never grabbed it like that. I just think it's so long to control.
Just like that really? Yeah. You have any problem shaving?
Oh no. Is that good? That's a good one.
What's your name bro? I didn't even. Gabriel.
Just saying it's a pretty good name. We have two Gabriel's on the show today.
About a dime size. For me I can probably achieve like 90% of the styles with the
matte clay. I'm gonna apply the matte product and
use the diffuser to bring out the volume. So it's gonna give me that same look with
just one product. You've used a diffuser before Gabe?
Yeah. Oh you too.
Oh wait which Gabe? Which one?
So you've put product in your hair before? Yeah.
Moose? So you like the wet look?
I mean with your longer hair you'd like the wet look?
Is that why? Yeah.
We're gonna give you a matte dry look with this style.
Go ahead and put a diffuser on and then just start blow drying it.
And then make sure that we're starting the style and moving it into the direction that
we want it laying. That's forward right?
Yeah. Like a forward messy.