How To Cut A Flow Haircut | Full Scissor Cut Tutorial

In this tutorial I'm going to be showing you guys how I approach a full scissor cut, focusing on shape, weight distribution and how the haircut sits naturally. This is Chris Talonga, let's get into it. So first off I'm going to be saturating my client's hair with water, making sure it's nice and evenly saturated, that way it's easier for me to take my sections and do my scissor work. Then I'm going to jump straight into sectioning my client's hair into three zones. We're going to split the top straight down the middle, using the nose as a reference. And then from the top of the head to the back of the ear, we're going to separate the back from the sides. So three zones in total, making sure it's nice and even, clean separation so I can work cleanly with my scissor work when I get into the cutting. Perfect. Now what I'm doing here is I'm just creating my outline of the haircut. Now my client, he didn't mind the length at the bottom, so we're just adjusting it ever so slightly. So I'm taking four weeks off the bottom, like we spoke about in the consultation, just to freshen it up. And then I will use the bottom length as a reference to match up the length on the inside just so we can distribute the weight evenly. So I'm going to be using a layering technique through the back. So here to achieve my layering technique, I'm going to be using a profile section right down the middle of the back of the head. And this section is going to be a finger's width. And I'm creating my shape vertically, okay, so you can see here I'm pulling the hair straight out from the head. And then we're going to be using a square cutting line to create our layered shape. This section right here, straight down the middle, our profile section is so crucial because this will dictate our shape through the back, which ultimately can dictate the shape for the rest of the haircut. So make sure you take this nice and slow, making sure you're achieving the shape that you're going for. Make sure your technique is strict, because the profile guide will be the reference point to connect in the left and the right side of the back in this situation. We're just double checking that one, making sure our shape vertically is nice and square. And then I'm going to be taking horizontal sections, starting from the bottom and moving up the head. And you can see I'm trying and I'm searching for that profile guide. If I can't see it, then I won't cut it. We keep moving finger length sections up the head, and there you can see that profile section start to come into play. I'm just going to use a point cutting technique just to chip away into that. Again, making sure your sections come straight out from the head, elevation is neutral, and that profile guide right in the middle, and we're just making that connection on the right side. Once again, that profile guide or that profile section right down the middle of the head, so crucial, because that's our reference point to make that connection in on both sides. Same exact steps on the left side, I've groomed the hair in the direction that I want to take my sections. This makes it easier for me to work up the head with my horizontal sections. One of the biggest things here with scissor cuts is making sure the weight is distributed evenly. A lot of problems that I find with my clients who have never had a scissor cut with me before or just growing their hair, they have a lot of internal length and weight, which is unnecessary sometimes. Always trying to find where the weight sits and distributing it more evenly, that way the haircut performs better for the client over time. Here, I'm just cross-checking the back, so always cross-check the opposite way that you took your sections. In this example, I took horizontal sections to make the cut through the back, now we're checking vertically, making sure everything's nice and even. Now, jumping onto the sides, I'm going to drop the pin and I'm going to use the corner of the hairline, the recession, as a guide to separate the top from the length on the temple area and we're going to start working our sections. Now, my client here, he wanted it quite tight in the temple area with the scissors, so what I'm going to do is over-direct everything down to the temple and I'm going to cut that. What's going to happen here is the length around the temple area will be the shortest part of the side panel and everything close to the top of the head and more towards the back of the ear will gradually get longer, so it will flow into that back panel that we created just then. And then also, nice and tight on the temple area kind of gives me room to create my taper, my clipper work after I've done all my scissor work. So you can see here, it smooths back nicely and that temple area is nice and short. Okay. And now, I'm just taking horizontal sections, I'm making that slight connection into the length of the back that I've created, that way there's no excess weight creating too much width at the side of my head for my client. So same thing again, horizontal sections, pulling the hair straight out from where it lives, neutral elevation and we're going to make that cut. We have our guideline at the temple area that we just created and then we have another guideline towards the back of the head that we created for our first zone. And right now, I'm just using a eastern grip technique to achieve my cut, but purely this is all about control. Okay. So you will see me change my cutting line, cutting angle, even cutting technique to achieve my desired shape, whatever gives you the most control to achieve the desired shape. That's the aim of the game. So now, I'm just checking my length, smoothing it back, seeing how it sits. Now, we're going to repeat the same exact steps on the left side. So again, we're going to separate the top from the side and we're going to use the corner of the hairline, the recession as a reference point to make that separation. So again, we're going to pull and over-direct everything down to where the temple area is and we're going to cut that nice and short. That way, everything at the temple is short and everything towards the back of the ear or towards the top right side of the head or this section gradually gets longer. And then we'll start to take our horizontal section and we're going to start to take our and just make that slight connection into the back. So you can see here as I draw it out, I've got my two reference points. All we need to do is just chip away at it. So do and you can see here, we're just checking the length, the transition down to that kind of tail under the ear, making sure everything is nice and smooth, there's no excess length that's going to bother my client. The biggest thing with scissor cuts is visualizing the end result, seeing how everything will sit, taking the hair texture into account, seeing where the hair bends, where the hair waves and then cutting according to that. So right now we're just jumping straight into the top, we dropped our pin and just like our first zone through the back, I'm going to be creating a profile guide on the top of the head. Straight down the middle, we're using the nose as our reference, we're taking a finger length section, okay, and I'm going to use this section to help me control the shape from the back of the head through to the front hairline. So you can see here, I want to build length towards the front, so we have our guide from the back and I'm going to increase length towards the fringe, that way my client can have a couple options with this, he can wear his fringe out to the side, you know, more kind of like classic kind of rugged look or he has the length to sweep it back as well. Common mistake I see here with clients who come to me for scissor cuts, first-time clients, is there's too much length and weight internally, okay. So this is an easy one to fix just by using this profile guide and even in the consultation, making the client aware of this problem and why it's happening and how you can fix it. It's a good way that you can retain, also show your expertise to the client, show them that you care. So right now, I'm taking horizontal sections just like the back because of my profile guide, you can see when I pick up the hair, I've got my guide in the middle, and I'm just making that connection on the right side. We're working back to front here, taking finger length sections, making sure we're pulling the hair straight up out of the head, making sure there's no over direction. So you can see here, that right side is done, we are separating the right side away, pinning it back, and then we'll continue that same technique on the left side. Horizontal sections, profile guide in the middle, pinning it back, and then matching that one up. And I'm using the Mizutani Acro Type Ks. With this one, they're so sharp, lots of control. These are six-inch scissors, so it's perfect size for me to do all my precision cutting, but also any scissor over comb work as well. So right now, just like the back, just like all our sections, we're doing a cross-check, so I use horizontal sections to create my shape on top. Now I'm just going back through vertically, and making sure the shape is nice and even for my client. Now what we're doing now is we're splitting the top into two, and we're going to be choosing the outline of our fringe, okay. Now my client in the consultation, he wanted the fringe to just sit by cheekbone, so we're using that as a reference, and then as we go further towards the back of the head, it'll be shorter and shorter, that way we can make that connection around where the ear is, or just behind it. So you can see where I angle my fingers, is more pointed down towards the bottom of the floor, and then my knuckles are pointing more towards the ceiling, that way we can make that connection just above the ear there. And here we are, making that connection just above the ear. Now what I'm going to be doing is pulling the fringe down, you can see I have that guide, so I can match it up on the right side perfectly. So guide from the left, pull it straight down, make that cut, create that split again, and then as you can see here, we have that shorter piece at the front, matching up to the original cut on the right side that we created. And now we'll just go shorter to the back of the ear, just like we did on the other side, so both sides are symmetrical. Here we are just assessing the length, seeing where that fringe falls, you know also showing the client at the same time, and then we'll just go shorter to the through the haircut, you know, just to give them a little bit more peace of mind. Alright, now we're jumping straight into our taper, we're going to be using a descending fading technique through here. So I'm just starting off with my one and a half guard, then we're going to go one open to one closed, and we're really just picking at that sideburn area there. More of a natural taper, nothing too crazy, nothing too exaggerated, just enough to make it clean and tidy. Now we have no guard, we're just flicking at the little hairs there, just taking at any dark hairs that's going to disrupt that, that fade out. And then we have our trimmer there, just cleaning up the little baby hairs just at the front of the ear, don't want to go too far behind the ear or above it, because we're going to be destroying our shape. I'm going to repeat the same exact steps on the other side, nice and easy, nice and simple, descending fading technique, enough to keep it tidy and natural. And here we are just detailing the outline with the razor, making sure everything's nice and sharp, make sure it lasts a little bit longer for my client also. And right now we're just applying a fiber paste through this one, styling this wet, and I've advised my client to style it wet at home as well, he has nice natural waves and curls through the hair, so we want to take advantage of that. And there you have it, full scissor cut, start to finish, this is exactly how I approach it on the shop floor, keeping everything controlled and efficient. Now this whole haircut took about half an hour and that's the standard I hold with each client. Now if you got value from this, make sure you subscribe, there's plenty more tutorials and lifestyle content coming through. And if you got any questions, just drop them in the comments and I'll see you in the next one. Thank you.