EP8: Night at −20 °C: Lifting 400 kg on Ice—Back to Shuanghu, Alive

The route I crossed in the Changtang wilderness has no road. The ruts I saw were left by scientific expeditions, left behind by the exploration team and the protected area forestry patrol. In the past three days since entering the no-man's land, I haven't seen a single person or a single car, not to mention the signal. In summer, the melting snow and ice of the snow-capped mountains will form countless river branches. They're all over this plateau. Oh my god. I fell again. I shouldn't have fallen. I should have added more oil. Such a heavy car. How can I lift it up? The side bags and the backpack are the main problem. It blocks the force of our hands grabbing the tail. It's blocking. I can't use force. Otherwise, with this inclination angle, after a few minutes rest with a hard pull, there's still a chance. I just came down from that place. This place is so soft. On this kind of road, it's not like we can go left or right as we want, or to the right. It's okay to keep it from falling over. It's like twisting a snake or a twist. Where is Shuanghu? It seems that if you turn over this mountain, you can see Shuanghu County. It's still far. In winter, the days are shorter and nights longer. The sunset comes much earlier than in summer. There are about 80 kilometers left to Shuanghu County. The rear shock absorber oil of my motorcycle leaked out means there is no downward damping and rebound damping. The heavy car and bumpy road, the shock absorber's downward speed is fast and rebound speed is fast. Running fast will make the body unstable. The originally proud WP shock absorber system now also fails to function. Enjoy the ultimate scenery at a slow speed. Enjoying the last bit of sunlight, I will face the darkest moment under low temperature. I seem to have taken the wrong way. I should go in that direction. I took the wrong way. This doesn't turn on. We can't go back. I think I can go back to Shuanghu in one breath. Is what I want more, but... The headlights are not bright enough. Look what this is. It should be a wild donkey. Due to poor visibility, I can't clearly distinguish the road conditions. The front wheel was stuck in the ruts with different heights. The night has fallen, and in a no man's land, there was no cover around. My heart began to be uneasy, but I had to stay calm to deal with the current situation. The headlights seemed so dim on the empty grassland. I'll charge up. Like a beast. This tower is too heavy when it's not funny. Get up. Once again, I didn't unload my luggage and spare fuel to push the car up. I only had a cup of coffee in the morning that day. I was already exhausted. I was cold and hungry and just wanted to return to Shuanghu. Damn it. The front wheel was stuck in a deep rut. I fell again when I just started and couldn't stand steady. At this time, my heart seemed to be collapsing. But since I started motorcycle touring in 2018, the roads I've traveled and places I've been and the setbacks I've experienced are too many. I can still adjust my state and try again. It was just too dark to see the road. Are you kidding me? Unloading luggage. It's not only cumbersome but also exhausting. Fortunately, only in the case of removing the camel bag, I could lift the bike up at once. I could see some animal shadows on the road, but I didn't have time to think about that. At night, with a temperature of minus 20 degrees, even if the electric heating handle is adjusted to the highest gear, it was useless. My body was getting colder. I kept telling myself not to reverse again. My eyes became blurry. Blurred. I couldn't see clearly. Keeping a steady pace is the best rhythm. I safely returned to Shuanghu County at 23 o'clock. I just returned to Shuanghu. There are only two hotels here. I found the best one. I'm crazy. But I'm still alive. Today is really... Oh my god. I'm speechless. Check in first. Let's see what's in my stomach. The motorcycle's rearview mirror fell on the road. I picked it up, but I don't know where to put it. Put it in my pocket. My two eyes. I can't see things clearly. Blurred. It's below minus 20 degrees. I came down from the mountain. Oh my god, I felt colder and colder. I'm wearing very thick clothes, but I can't stand it. This is the only hotel in Shuanghu County that is open. And the best hotel in Shuanghu County. There's no other hotel. I haven't eaten anything since morning. I've been riding non-stop to get back. My eyes are blurry now. It's below minus 20 degrees. Riding a motorcycle back at night. It's really too cold here.