These 9 Drought Proof Vertical Crops Grow Like Wildfire in Record Heat 2

What if your garden didn't just survive extreme heat, but actually thrived in it? No constant watering. No dying crops every dry season. Just plants that keep growing even when the heat feels unbearable. And the surprising part, most people walk right past these crops without realizing they're some of the most drought-proof foods on the planet. Today I'll show you seven vertical native crops that can handle record-breaking heat and still keep producing food when everything else fails. Before we start, hit subscribe because most people never discover these crops until it's too late. Let's start with the one that survives almost total neglect. Number nine. Armenian cucumber. Now don't let the name fool you because Armenian cucumber is not actually a cucumber. Oh no. It's a muskmelon and that distinction matters enormously when we're talking about drought survival. While your standard cucumber wilts and starts dropping flowers the moment temperatures push past 90 degrees Fahrenheit, Armenian cucumber is just getting warmed up. Literally. This plant is native to the baking hot arid regions of the Middle East and Armenia. Regions that regularly receive less than 10 inches of annual rainfall. It didn't just adapt to drought. It evolved inside of it. The root system on a mature Armenian cucumber plant can extend three to four feet deep in loose soil. That's two to three times deeper than what a standard cucumber variety ever develops. It's accessing moisture underground that regular cucumbers don't even know exists. For vertical growing, this thing is absolutely ideal. The vines push 10 to 15 feet in a single season and the fruits, long, pale green, ribbed and elegant, hang straight down in this gorgeous uniform way that makes harvesting effortless. You want a trellis of at least six feet, but honestly the taller the structure, the better this plant performs. Give it room to climb and it will reward you generously. For USDA zones 4 through 7, you're planting this after your last frost late May through early June, once soil is consistently above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. In zones 8 through 12, get this in the ground as early as late March or April and you can run a second planting in late summer for a fall harvest. Now here's what most people get wrong about watering this crop. Water deeply once or twice a week for the first two to three weeks during establishment and then cut back. Seriously, step away from the hose. Frequent shallow watering after establishment actually weakens Armenian cucumber. Deep, infrequent watering, once every seven to ten days during peak summer heat, trains those roots to go deeper and makes the plant tougher and more independent. And here's something that genuinely surprises people. Armenian cucumber sets fruit better in heat. Pollination rates actually improve above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the complete opposite of regular cucumbers. So when your other cucumbers are dropping flowers and going barren in a heat wave, Armenian cucumber is producing like crazy. Harvest fruits between 12 and 18 inches long. Don't let them go yellow. They turn bitter and seedy fast. Pick young. Pick often. Bonus. Almost nobody talks about this, but Armenian cucumber leaves are edible. The young, tender leaves are slightly fuzzy but completely palatable once cooked. Very similar to squash leaves. In traditional Armenian and Middle Eastern cooking, these leaves are sautéed with garlic and olive oil as a side dish. So when drought conditions slow fruit production, you're still pulling food from the plant. That's the kind of redundancy that makes a truly resilient drought garden. Number eight. Malabar spinach. Oh man. If you have never grown Malabar spinach, you are genuinely, legitimately missing one of the most productive and heat-defying plants you can put on a vertical structure. And here's the thing. It isn't even a true spinach. Botanically, it belongs to its own family, basalasi, and it behaves nothing like the spinach, you know. Regular spinach bolts and dies the moment air temperatures hit 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Malabar spinach? It starts thriving at 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It hits its absolute peak productivity somewhere between 85 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. It is, without any exaggeration whatsoever, a plant that was built for the exact conditions that destroy most leafy greens. Malabar spinach is native to tropical Asia and sub-Saharan Africa. Cultivated for thousands of years in regions where the very concept of a cool growing season doesn't exist. Look at those thick, glossy, deep green leaves and understand what you're actually seeing. A plant with succulent-like stems that store water reserves the same way a cactus does. That's why it barely reacts when drought conditions wither a regular leafy green within 48 hours. The structural biology of this plant is on your side. For vertical growing, Malabar spinach is a vigorous twining climber. The vines push 10 feet or more in warm climates and produce a dense, beautiful canopy of large, glossy leaves that are stunning and productive simultaneously. It thrives on a trellis, a fence, or even a simple string lattice. In USDA zones 9 through 12, this grows as a true perennial, coming back year after year from established roots. In zones 5 through 8, grow it as a warm season annual, starting seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost, or direct sowing after soil reaches 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Here's a critical germination tip most sources completely skip. Malabar spinach seeds have a genuinely hard seed coat that dramatically slows germination. If you just drop them in the ground untreated, you're looking at up to three weeks to sprout. But scarify those seeds. Rub them gently on fine sandpaper or soak them in warm water for 24 hours before planting, and you cut that germination window down to 7 to 10 days. In a short growing season, that time difference is massive. Nutritionally, Malabar spinach is extraordinary. Significantly higher levels of vitamin A, vitamin C iron, and calcium than regular spinach. It also contains mucilaginous compounds similar to okra, giving it a slightly gel-like texture when cooked that makes it superb for thickening soups and stews. Bonus. Here's where it gets interesting. Most people only know one variety. Bacilla alba is the green stem type, but Bacilla rubra has deep purple-red stems and veins, just as productive, just as drought tolerant, and visually spectacular on a trellis in a way that stops visitors cold. And beyond looks, Bacilla rubra contains higher levels of antioxidant betakainans than the green variety. Grow both side by side and you have a vertical structure that produces abundantly and looks like deliberate, intentional garden artistry. Number seven. Yard-long bean. The name is exactly what it sounds like. Beans that grow up to a full yard long on climbing vines that can hit 10 to 12 feet tall. And here's the thing that completely separates yard-long bean from the common green beans most people grow. It's not even in the same genus. Yard-long bean belongs to the cowpea family, the vineya genus, which is one of the most heat and drought tolerant legume families that exists anywhere on earth. It is physiologically different from common beans, Fasciolus vulgaris, in ways that matter enormously in a drought. Yard-long bean fixes atmospheric nitrogen through its root nodules even in hot dry soil conditions where common beans have completely stopped fixing nitrogen. So it's not just surviving the drought. It's actively improving your soil while it does it. That's a remarkable quality in a food crop. The vines are enthusiastic climbers and they need a trellis of at least six to eight feet. The pods hang in pairs from a single stem. Two long slender beans dangling together and it's genuinely beautiful to look at. Production is fast. From transplant to first harvest is typically 60 to 70 days. USDA zones 7 through 12 are the sweet spot. But in zones 4 through 6, yard-long bean works as a fast maturing warm season annual in a late spring planting after soil temperatures reach 65 degrees Fahrenheit. In zones 9 through 12 you're getting two full crops, spring and late summer. One critical cultivation note that most sources skip entirely. Do not fertilize yard-long beans with phosphorus heavy or nitrogen heavy fertilizers. Because they fix their own nitrogen, heavy nitrogen applications actually suppress the plant and push it into excessive leafy growth at the direct expense of pod production. Plant them in average to even moderately poor soil. They'll produce more heavily in poor soil than in a rich heavily amended bed. That's counterintuitive but it's true. Harvest pods when they're pencil thin for tradio usually at 12 to 18 inches long before the beans inside swell visibly. Once the beans inside get large the pod turns tough and fibrous fast. Pick every two to three days at peak production because in heat these plants produce incredibly fast. Bonus. Most people cook yard-long beans purely as a green vegetable and that's completely valid. But here's what almost nobody does. Allow some pods to fully mature and dry on the vine. The dried beans inside are nutritionally identical to black-eyed peas. High protein, high iron, high folate and shelf stable for months. So in a drought year when fruit production slows you're still building a serious food reserve from the same plant. That's dual purpose production. Fresh vegetable in good weeks, dried protein in hard weeks from one drought-proof climbing crop. Truly clever growing. Number six. Bitter melon. Okay this one polarizes people and honestly fair enough. Bitter melon tastes intensely aggressively bitter. It's not for everyone but if you're growing food for genuine resilience and not just flavor comfort bitter melon deserves serious serious respect. It is one of the most heat resilient, drought tolerant and medicinally significant climbing crops in the world and it is criminally underrepresented in western vertical gardening content. Full stop. Bitter melon originated in the tropical regions of Africa and Asia and has been cultivated for over 600 years across India, China, Southeast Asia and the Caribbean. It thrives, genuinely thrives in conditions of extreme heat, intense direct sun and low water availability that would devastate nearly every other cucurbit you know. The vines are vigorous twiners that reach 10 to 16 feet in a single season. The leaves are deeply lobed and dark green, beautiful actually and the fruits are distinctive, warty, bright green and ridged looking like a cucumber that grew up in a challenging neighborhood. It moves fast too. First fruits typically arrive 55 to 65 days from transplant. USDA zones 9 through 12 are ideal as a perennial. In zones 5 through 8 grow it as a warm season annual ensuring soil temperatures are above 65 degrees fahrenheit before planting. Ideally 70 degrees fahrenheit or above for best germination. Once established, watering once every 5 to 7 days is sufficient during genuine drought conditions. Here's a specific technique that makes a massive difference in fruiting that most sources completely omit. Bitter melon needs hand pollination for consistent fruit set in very hot weather. The female flowers, identifiable by the tiny immature fruit visible right behind the petals, open early in the morning. Between 6 and 9 am use a small soft bristle paintbrush or simply your fingertip to transfer pollen from male flowers to the center of female flowers. Do this consistently and you can literally double your fruit set in high heat conditions. Skip it and you'll wonder why your vine is flowering but not fruiting. The medicinal profile of bitter melon is genuinely extraordinary. It contains charentin and polypeptide, AP, compounds that have been shown across multiple peer-reviewed studies to lower blood glucose levels. It's used extensively in Ayurvedic medicine and traditional Chinese medicine for metabolic health support. It's also remarkably high in vitamin C and contains a compound called vicine which acts as a natural insulin mimic. This is a plant with pharmaceutical level bioactive compounds growing on your trellis. Bonus. The leaves and shoot tips of bitter melon are edible and significantly less bitter than the fruit. In Filipino cuisine the young leaves go into soups and stir fries as a standard ingredient. Here's the rare part. The leaves actually contain higher concentrations of the medicinal compounds than the fruit itself. So when your plants are young and not yet fruiting, harvest the growing tips regularly. This simultaneously puts food on your table, concentrates the plant's health giving compounds in your diet and stimulates more vigorous side branching. Meaning more vines, more flowers and ultimately more fruits from the same plant. That's layered productivity that most growers completely miss. Number five. Luffa. Yes, the thing you scrub yourself with in the shower grows on a vine and it is one of the most heat loving drought tolerant vertical crops you can grow. It is also one of the most underutilized because most people in the west have absolutely no idea that the immature fruits are food. Luffa is a cucurbit native to South and Southeast Asia. Cultivated for over 2,000 years for food, medicine and utility. The young fruits harvested before the taste similar to zucchini. Maybe slightly sweeter and more delicate. The mature dried fruits give you the familiar luffa sponge. So from one drought tolerant vertical plant you get food from your garden and a household product for your bathroom. That's an extraordinary return. The vines are massive. In warm climates a single luffa vine can reach 30 feet in a season. In average growing conditions across USDA zones 7 through 10 you're looking at 15 to 20 feet of vigorous vine growth. You need a genuinely sturdy trellis for this. Not something light or flimsy. Build something robust because when luffa gets going it will cover and stress test anything weak. USDA zones 7 through 12 are ideal. In zones 4 through 6 luffa is challenging but achievable if you start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before last frost and use row covers to capture maximum growing season length. In zones 9 through 12 luffa approaches semi-perennial behavior in frost-free conditions. Luffa has a long growing season 90 to 120 days to mature fruit. So in shorter seasons prioritize harvesting immature fruits for eating. Harvest them at four to six inches for the best eating quality. Leave some fruits to go full size and dry down for your luffa sponges. Here's a drought management secret that dramatically improves performance in water-stressed conditions. When luffa is drought-stressed it will naturally drop some young fruits to redirect energy toward remaining ones. When you see this happening help the plant by proactively removing the smaller competing young fruits yourself. This concentrates the plant's limited resources into fewer fruits and keeps production moving forward rather than triggering a full shutdown. Counter-intuitively you get more total production by removing some fruits during drought than by leaving everything on the vine. Bonus! Luffa flowers are edible. They are spectacular and almost nobody harvests them. The large bright yellow blooms have a mild slightly sweet flavor and can be stuffed with soft cheese and grilled battered and fried or tossed fresh into salads. Here's the key growing fact that makes this bonus genuinely practical. Male flowers vastly outnumber female flowers on luffa vines. You can harvest 80 percent of the male flowers every single day and the vine will keep producing more males the very next morning. That's a continuous free food source that most people walk past and completely ignore every single day they're in their garden. Number four, cowpea. This is where things get genuinely serious. Cowpea, known in certain forms as black-eyed pea, is arguably the single most drought tolerant food producing legume on the face of this earth. That is not hyperbole. Cowpea was one of the first crops studied by NASA for food production in extreme environments. It is grown across the Sahel region of Africa, one of the harshest most water scarce agricultural zones on the planet and it produces consistently where nothing else can survive. Cowpea evolved in sub-saharan Africa and has been cultivated for at least 5,000 years. Its taproot can extend up to eight feet deep in loose soil accessing subsoil moisture that shallow rooted crops can't begin to reach. In droughts that kill most legumes within two weeks, cowpea enters a semi-dormant survival state then resumes active growth and production the moment any moisture returns. That drought recovery capability is a biological survival mechanism that no other common garden legume possesses. For vertical growing you specifically want the climbing varieties, not bush types, look for varieties like iron and clay, whippoorwill or Mississippi purple. Vigorous climbers that reach 6 to 10 feet and produce prolifically on vertical structures. USDA zones 7 through 12 are ideal. In zones 5 and 6 cowpea works well as a fast warm season annual, maturing in just 60 to 90 days which is fast enough for even a zone 5 summer. One critical planting note. Cowpea performs best in well-drained soil and actually prefers poor, sandy, nutritionally depleted soil over rich, heavily amended beds. Heavy clay is its primary weakness. If you have clay soil, amend with coarse sand and compost before planting or use raised beds. Before planting, inoculate your seeds with braderizobium inoculant specifically formulated for cowpeas, not generic garden inoculant. This establishes the nitrogen-fixing bacteria in the root nodules faster and more aggressively and it dramatically improves drought survival during those critical first weeks of establishment. Bonus, and this is genuinely rare information in the western gardening world, cowpea leaves are a major food crop across sub-saharan Africa where they're called koundé or cowpea greens. The leaves contain up to 27% protein on a dry weight basis, higher than nearly any leafy vegetable you can name, along with significant iron, calcium and vitamin b complex. Harvest the young shoot tips of your climbing cowpea vines regularly. Here's the remarkable thing, harvesting those tips actually stimulates more branching and more aggressive climbing, which means more pods, more leaves and dramatically higher total productivity from a single drought-stressed plant. You are harvesting food and improving the plant's performance at the exact same time. Almost no one in western home gardening knows this and it's a game-changing practice once you start. The number three, hyacinth bean. Hyacinth bean might genuinely be the most underrated edible climbing plant in the entire world. In the United States and Europe, it's almost exclusively as an ornamental. People grow it for the stunning purple flowers and the gorgeous glossy magenta seed pods and have absolutely no idea they're looking at a fully edible high protein food crop that has fed large populations across Africa and Asia for more than 3,000 years. Evidence of cultivation goes back to ancient African agricultural sites. This is one of the oldest crops on the continent and the people in the west are growing it purely for looks. That's a wild oversight. The drought tolerance is exceptional. Hyacinth bean comes from the dry savannas of tropical Africa, where it evolved to handle extended dry seasons, intense UV radiation and nutritionally poor soil. It produces vigorously in conditions that would bring most other climbing crops to a standstill. The vines are among the most visually beautiful you will ever grow, reaching 10 to 15 feet with large dark green leaves that carry a purplish sheen, clusters of violet purple flowers blooming in continuous succession all season long and striking deep magenta seed pods hanging in dense painterly clusters. It is genuinely a plant that makes people stop walking and stare. USDA zones 9 through 12 support it as a perennial. In zones 3 through 8, it grows as a fast maturing warm season annual, surprisingly productive even in a short season, reaching flowering within 60 to 70 days of planting. Now, critical safety information that most sources completely omit, and this matters, raw hyacinth beans contain cyanogenic glycosides, compounds that can cause toxicity if consumed raw in quantity. The green pods, dried beans and leaves must always be cooked before eating. Boil for 10 to 15 minutes and discard the cooking water. This completely neutralizes the compounds and makes them fully safe and nutritious. This isn't unusual, lima beans and kidney beans have exactly the same issue, but it is something you absolutely must know. Cooked, the beans are creamy and earthy in flavor, similar to fava beans and they're used extensively in South Indian cuisine in curries and stews under the name val. Bonus, here's the part that almost no western source ever mentions. The flowers of hyacinth bean are edible, not just technically edible, actually delicious. The blossoms have a sweet, mildly floral flavor and can be eaten raw in salads or used as an edible garnish. And nutritionally, they're rich in anthocyanins, the same class of antioxidant compounds found in blueberries and purple cabbage. Your drought resistant vine is producing continuous flowers all season and most people just let those blossoms drop. Start harvesting them as food and as antioxidant nutrition and you are tapping into a layer of production from this plant that virtually nobody else is using. Number two, seminal pumpkin. If you've never heard of seminal pumpkin, get ready, because what you're about to learn is going to seriously frustrate you, specifically because this crop is in already everywhere and in every drought garden conversation. Seminal pumpkin is a native American heirloom squash cultivated by the Seminal people of Florida for centuries. And the critical thing you must understand about its development, the Seminal people grew this pumpkin in the Florida scrub. The Florida scrub, one of the harshest, sandiest, most drought prone, most infertile growing environments in all of North America. This plant wasn't just selected for drought tolerance, it was refined and developed over generations specifically for survival in near zero water availability on pure sand and brutal subtropical heat. That is its entire origin story. Modern hybrid squash varieties wilt and die in drought. Seminal pumpkin doesn't just survive, it pushes out. The vines are massive, 20 to 25 feet long with deeply lobed leaves covered in fine silvery hairs that reflect radiant heat and dramatically reduce water loss through the leaf surface. The root network is extraordinary, extensive, deep, and aggressive in a way that puts modern squash hybrids to shame completely. The fruits are medium-sized, round to slightly pear-shaped, tan to buff-colored, dense, and visually unassuming. But slice one open and you find deep orange flesh that is sweet, nutty, and richer in flavor than most butternut squash you've ever eaten. And here is the truly remarkable thing about Seminal pumpkin that almost no one ever talks about. The fruits have an extremely hard shell that functions as a natural preservation system. At room temperature in a cool, dry location, Seminal pumpkin stores for 12 to 24 months without refrigeration. Read that again. Up to two years of storage from one drought-tolerant harvest. No other squash variety on the market does this. For vertical growing, the vines climb readily and will cover a large sturdy trellis or arbor because the fruits are dense and heavy. You'll need slings or mesh support nets to hold fruit weight when grown vertically. USDA zones 8 through 12 are ideal, but it grows well in zones 5 through 7 as a warm season annual. Start seeds indoors four weeks before last frost and transplant after soil reaches 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Water deeply once a week during establishment, then drop to once every 10 to 14 days. In genuine drought, Seminal pumpkin has survived on rainfall alone in hot, sandy Florida conditions. No other cucurbit at this production scale comes close. Bonus. Most people train a single Seminal pumpkin vine up one trellis and call it done. Here's the advanced approach used by experienced growers in zones 9 and above. Plant two to three vines at the base of one large trellis or arbor and train the secondary and tertiary vines horizontally along the ground level base of the structure before directing them upward. This creates a massive interconnected root network under the soil which dramatically amplifies the combined drought resistance of the whole planting. Growers using this technique in zone 9 consistently report harvesting 15 to 20 fruits from a single cluster of vines with almost no supplemental irrigation after establishment. No other cucurbit in a drought heat combination comes anywhere close to that output. And now, number one, the crop that earns the top spot for one very specific reason. It produces food from more parts of the plant in more extreme drought conditions across more months of the year than anything else on this list. And most home gardeners have never grown it. Most home gardeners have never even heard of it. Number one, In 1975, the United States National Academy of Sciences published a report calling the winged bean. But this is a direct institutional statement. A plant with so many food uses and so much nutritional promise that it may be the protein source needed by millions of people in the humid tropics. That report was published over 50 years ago and most home gardeners have never heard of this plant. That is a genuinely extraordinary oversight that this video exists to correct. Here is what makes winged bean the undisputed number one on this list. Every single part of this plant is edible. The young green pods eaten like green beans. The mature seeds dried and stored like soybeans or ground into high protein flour. The leaves cooked as a nutritious green vegetable. The shoot tips tender and flavorful used in stir fries across Southeast Asia. The flowers edible mildly flavored used as a garnish. And then there are the roots. The tuberous roots of the winged bean contain between 15 and 20 percent protein on a dry weight basis. 15 to 20 percent protein in a root vegetable. They taste like a mildly nutty slightly sweet potato and can be roasted, boiled or fried. There is no other commonly available root vegetable that comes close to that protein profile. The seeds themselves are extraordinary containing 29 to 39 percent protein and 15 to 20 percent high quality fat with a fatty acid profile similar to soybean. The oil extracted from winged bean seeds is comparable in quality to peanut oil. Now drought tolerance winged bean evolved in Papua New Guinea and tropical Southeast Asia in regions with pronounced annual dry seasons and intense heat. It is also a short day plant which means it requires shortening day length to trigger flowering. In temperate growing zones this means it flowers most heavily in late summer and fall producing its main harvest precisely when days are shortening but temperatures remain high. This is perfectly timed for late season drought conditions when most other crops in your garden are failing or finishing out. It peaks exactly when everything else is struggling. The vines are enthusiastic and beautiful climbers reaching 8 to 12 feet producing striking blue purple or white flowers edible as mentioned followed by the extraordinary four winged pods that look almost prehistoric. Deep green ruffled with four distinct fins running the full length of each pod. There is nothing else in a vegetable garden that looks quite like it. USDA zones 10 through 12 support winged bean as a true perennial. In zones 7 through 9 grow as a long season annual start indoors 6 to 8 weeks before last frost. In zones 5 and 6 it's challenging but possible in a long hot summer with a very early transplant and black plastic mulch to maximize soil heat. One essential seed prep tip winged bean seeds have a very hard seed coat that significantly resists water uptake. Scarify the seeds, light sandpaper on the seed coat or a 24-hour warm water soak before planting. Skip this and germination is slow and uneven. Do it and germination is vigorous and consistent. Water requirements once established are moderate to low. Established winged bean plants are resilient to two to three weeks without irrigation in hot weather once the root system is properly developed. Now here is the final layer of this plant's value that puts it firmly at number one. Winged bean fixes atmospheric nitrogen through root nodules hosting multiple strains of bretter rhizobium bacteria and it does this at rates comparable to or exceeding soybean in tropical conditions. In a drought year when you're adding less compost and fewer soil amendments winged bean is actively building your soil nitrogen bank while it feeds you. It's a closed loop system of productivity that no other crop on this list matches. Bonus and this is the one this is the rare genuine growing knowledge that you will not find in a standard gardening search. In traditional Papua New Guinean agriculture winged bean is managed as a semi-perennial through its tuberous root system. Rather than pulling the entire plant at season's end experienced growers harvest pods leaves and flowers throughout the season then at the end harvest some but not all of the tubers leaving the rest in the ground. In USDA zone 10 and above those remaining tubers will re-sprout in spring and launch the next growing season's vine from an established root system. That means faster establishment deeper immediate drought resistance and earlier production in year two than you ever got in year one. A perennial food producing vertical plant that builds soil fixes nitrogen survives drought regenerates from its own roots and produces food from six different plant parts simultaneously. Nothing else on this list nothing in the vertical gardening space anywhere offers that complete and layered a package. And that is your list nine drought-proof vertical crops that don't just survive record heat they produce food in it through it and because of it. From nine down to one Armenian cucumber Malabar spinach yard-long bean bitter melon luffa cowpea hyacinth bean seminal pumpkin and at number one winged bean. Pick even two or three of these for your vertical garden this season and you'll be the person harvesting while everyone else's garden is cracking and drying out. That's the whole point of knowing what other gardeners don't. If this video gave you information you genuinely hadn't seen before and I'm confident it did then subscribe right now because this is what this channel does every single week. Rare specific tested growing knowledge that you cannot get from the same five articles everyone keeps recycling. The people who are subscribed are building real food resilience real growing skill and a real understanding of these plants that most gardeners never develop. If you leave without subscribing the next video goes out and you won't see it and that next video might be the most important thing for your garden this entire year. Don't let that happen hit subscribe right now I'll see you in the next one.