Roni Sweater Full Knitting Pattern Tutorial.

Hello and welcome to a new knitting pattern tutorial from Holi Pripa Johanna. I'm Johanna and today we are going to knit the Roni Sweater over here and over here. The Roni Sweater is a classic sweater in stockinette stitch with a beautiful lace pattern all over body and sleeves featuring a saddle shoulder raclan construction worked from the top down with two different yarn qualities. We have two strands of silk mohair to work up the stockinette stitch part of body and sleeves and one strand of silk mohair held together with one strand of fingering weight yarn to work the lace pattern stripes, the reverse stockinette stitch stripes, collar, cuffs and hem. So we will get started to shape the saddle shoulder with increases in right side rows and in wrong side rows while working our reverse stockinette stitch stripes and lace pattern stripes. Then we will work the increases along the sleeves only and then we will finally start to work the classic raclan increases along front and back part and the sleeves until the sleeves can be separated from the body of our sweater and then the sweater is just worked in the round in stockinette stitch and in lace pattern stripes and reverse stockinette stitch stripes and finished off with the hem in half twisted ribbing with the contrasting yarn qualities as well. Then we will pick up our sleeve stitches and the sleeves are finished as the body in the round in stockinette stitch with alternating reverse stockinette stitch stripes and lace pattern stripes. Shortly before the cuffs you can decide if you want to work a bunch of decreases as I did for the yellow sample or you can leave out the decreases as I did for the white sample and then it will be a little bit wider around the cuffs. It's up to you to decide how you want to wear your sweater and then you will finish the cuffs in half twisted ribbing as well. Last but not least you will pick up stitches around the collar to work a double folded collar in half twisted ribbing as well. The Honi sweater is a very fun project. It can work out for beginner knitters as well if you are looking for a challenge and if you are want to learn new techniques or new construction methods as for example the saddle shoulder raclan construction but I would definitely recommend that you have worked a few sweater patterns before you are challenging yourself with the Honi sweater pattern. All you need to get started with this fun and engaging and a beautiful result is the written pattern of your Honi sweater which is available in German and in English for now. I hope for more translations on my website and the gallery and of course the yarn in your favorite color and your knitting needles and then a lot of time and patience and fun to work up your version of the design. Start to cast on the number of stitches for your size written down in your written pattern. I am using a long tail cast on. It's my preferred way but of course you can use any other cast on method you like and additionally I will place stitch markers to mark the central raclan stitches. They are shown in the tablet in your written pattern in the table in your written pattern and you can place the stitch markers before and after those central raclan stitches. We will now work increases to shape the saddle shoulder. The increases are worked in right side rows before the raclan stitches and after the raclan stitches on both sides and they are worked in wrong side rows also before and after the central raclan stitches on each side. Make one right before the raclan stitch, knit the raclan stitches and make one right make one left after the raclan stitch. Then knit all stitches until you reach the third stitch marker the other side of your saddle shoulder and then repeat the increases. Make one right before the raclan stitch and make one left after the raclan stitch. We will now repeat the increases in the wrong side rows before and after the raclan stitches and repeat the instructions for the increases. Make one left purlwise before the raclan stitches, work the raclan stitches and make one right purlwise it's always tricky to pick up the yarn. Make one right purlwise after the raclan stitches. The increases along the raclan stitches for the saddle shoulders are now repeated a couple of times for your sides like written down in your written pattern. Additionally to the raclan increases we will now start to shape the round neck by increasing a left leaning stitch. Make one left after the first three stitches and make one right before the last three stitches always in the right side row. The increases along the raclan stitches in right side rows and in wrong side rows are continued like described before. Make one left after the first three stitches and make a right leaning increase before the last three stitches and now repeat the increases for the round necks as well as the raclan increases we learned before the number of times written down in your written pattern. A few things will change now. First of all the yarn. We will now work with one strand of tilia held together with one strand of arveta for our first reverse stockinette stitch stripe. Additionally the setup will change. We have now shaped our saddle shoulder so that we are ready for sleeve increases only. There won't be any increases for the back part or the two front panels. Only the round neck increases in every right side row and the sleeve increases and therefore we will need to place stitch markers so that we have four raclan stitches and i will place the stitch markers as i go when working the first row in reverse garter stitch in reverse stockinette stitch of course. We work the round neck increase after the first three stitches. Then we knit all stitches until we reach the first stitch marker. You don't need to work increases before this marker because this is our front part and we won't work increases along the saddle shoulder for our front parts anymore. Then we knit the next stitch. This is our first raclan stitch which will be marked with a new stitch marker and now we will work an increase. We will work a left leaning increase as a classic raclan increase. Then we knit all stitches until there is one stitch left before the next marker. Here we work another increase a right leaning increase as our second classic raclan increase. We place another stitch marker to mark our second raclan stitch. We knit it and now we don't work any increases at the back part. We just knit all stitches of the back part until we reach at the other shoulder section our third and fourth stitch marker and then we will repeat the instruction we have worked now. We have now reached our second saddle shoulder. We don't work any increases at the back part. We knit the next stitch. This is our third raclan stitch which is marked with another stitch marker and now we work a left leaning increase as a classic raclan increase for our sleeves. It's a little bit fiddly. Then knit all stitches until there is one stitch left before the next stitch marker. Here we work a right leaning increase as another classic raclan increase. We place a stitch marker, knit the next stitch and now we knit all stitches of the front panel without increases along the saddle shoulder but with increases to shape the round neck meaning we have to work a right leaning increase before the last three stitches. And then we are finished with our right side row and in the next wrong side row we will just knit all stitches for our reverse stockinette stitch stripe. When we are working with mohair only the wrong side rows are only purled without any increases. This is important information. In wrong side rows we don't have increases for this section of the yoke anymore. As you can see we have worked the first row in reverse stockinette stitch or the first two rows in reverse stockinette stitch and we have placed more stitch markers to mark the raclan stitches for the sleeve increases only. And now to complete our stripe in reverse stockinette stitch with the contrasting yarn qualities we will work a right side row with purl stitches meaning we have to work purl increases as well. Work the first three stitches and now we work a purl increase for our round neck here. Then we purl all stitches until we reach our second stitch marker and after our second stitch marker we work the next purl increase. It's the same logic it applies for the increases in wrong side rows you have worked for the saddle shoulder before. Now purl all stitches until you reach the next stitch marker work another purl increase and now purl all stitches until you reach the second shoulder and then you will repeat the purl increases along the sleeves and the purl increases for the round neck as well. We have now finished our stripe in reverse stockinette stitch so that we can cut the yarn again and pick up two strands of silk mohair held together in my case tilia and now we will work the next right side row with the classic raclan increases along the sleeves. The round neck increases after the first three stitches and before the last three stitches as we have worked them before and then we are ready to close the round neck in the next right side row but therefore we have worked the first round neck increase we will now work two raclan increases along our first sleeve and then the next two raclan increases along our second sleeve and then the last round neck increase before the last three stitches of our right side row then we will purl all stitches in the next wrong side row except the edge stitches of course they are always the exception and then we will meet again to talk about closing everything to the round. We are now ready to close the round neck and therefore we cut the yarn first because we need to move our beginning of the round to our first stitch marker and therefore we now just slip the stitches of our front panel onto our knitting needle in our right hand without knitting them and the stitches are slipped purlwise so this is this is our new starting point the first stitch marker we knit the stitch then we work the raclan increases along the sleeve make one left after the second stitch marker make one right before the third stitch marker then knit all stitches until you reach the second sleeve now work the raclan increases along the second sleeve make one left and then make one right and now knit all stitches until there are three stitches left and work a right leaning increase for the round neck make one right for the round neck shaping knit the last three stitches and then cast on the number of stitches for your size given in your written pattern and then continue to work the slipped stitches of the front part you have not yet worked we will use the magic loop to work it make it work out with our knitting needles this is it knit the first three stitches make a left leaning increase for the round neck shaping and then knit all stitches until you reach the first stitch marker we have now joined the yoke to the round i have placed another stitch marker in a different color to mark the beginning of the round here these are our new stitches to close the round neck and the next round is now just knitted without any increases we will now work a couple of more rounds until we will work the first lace pattern stripe in the round with sleeves increases only we are now working a lace pattern stripe with our two contrasting yarn qualities the raclan stitches are worked according to the textured pattern or to the lace pattern in this case we have to knit it remember to work the raclan increases along the sleeves make one right before the raclan stitch and make one left after the raclan stitch but for the sleeves only and here we are working the back part so there are aren't any raclan increases but we will work the lace pattern and therefore make a yarn over and then knit two stitches together and these two stitches are now repeated steadily yarn over knit two together yarn over and knit two together and this is repeated until we have reached the end of the round we have now worked a lace pattern stripe with our contrasting yarn quality and a few more rounds with our main yarn quality two strands of tilia and now we have finished our sleeve increases and we will now work classic raclan increases before and after each raclan stitch meaning we have eight raclan increases in every odd round from now onwards for the number of repetitions given for your size in the written pattern before the raclan stitch we are making a right leaning increase make one right and after the raclan stitch we are making a left leaning increase make one left repeat the raclan increases before and after each raclan stitch here here here and here knit all stitches in odd rounds and knit all stitches in even rounds in even rounds there aren't any raclan increases and remember to work in reverse stockinette stitch stripes and in lace pattern stripes as written down in your written pattern and repeat all these instructions until you are ready to separate the sleeves from the body when working the raclan increases in every odd round there is one exception for size 2xl upwards after a couple of repetitions of the raclan increases in every odd round you will work the raclan increases in every round meaning make one right and make one left will be worked in every round meaning the raclan increases will be worked in even rounds and in odd rounds i have now worked the required number of repetitions for the raclan increases for my size and i'm now ready to separate the sleeve stitches from the body stitches and to cast on new stitches under each armpit the sleeve stitches will be put on hold on the stitch holder cords but you can use leftover yarn or another rope as well so take up your knitting needles work the first raclan stitch we can remove the stitch marker now cast on the required number of stitches given for your size in your written pattern under the armpit the first armpit and now slip the sleeve stitches on your rope stitch holder cord or leftover yarn and now continue knitting as described in your written pattern you can remove all stitch markers except the beginning of the round stitch marker but you won't need the stitch markers to mark the raclan increases anymore and then repeat the instructions for the second sleeve cast on new stitches under the armpit and put the sleeve stitches on hold on your stitch shoulder cord rope leftover yarn and this is how your work should look like after separating the sleeve stitches from the body of your roni sweater here we have the new stitches under each armpit we have left our stitch markers here and this was all the magic we have now not a yoke anymore but a sweater like work in progress the instructions now are very easy you just continue working all stitches in the round i am working currently a stockinette stitch stripe afterwards i will work a reverse stockinette stitch stripes as here and then more stockinette stitch stripes and then we will work a lace pattern stripe and this is what will be continued until we have reached our final sweater length or until you have reached the desired length for your individual body measurements and then we will meet again to work the hem in twisted ribbing to make the change of the yarn qualities as invisible as possible we can use the smooth color change for knitting in the round with two different colors as well so we take up our contrasting yarn quality and knit one round with this new yarn until we reach our stitch marker here we have now worked up all stitches until we have reached our stitch marker and now we will pull up the stitch underneath in our other yarn quality and put it on our needle as well and then we will knit both stitches as one stitch in this case i have to work a purl stitch but it's working out with knit stitches knit stitches as well and now we will continue this round and the instructions for our lace pattern or reverse stockinette stitch round as instructed in the pattern and when you will tighten the strands and weave in the ends at the end the yarn quality change will be less visible than it would be without the technique it's not vanished but it's much better the body hem of the sweater is finished with a hem in twisted ribbing with twisted knit stitches the purl stitches can be worked as normal purl stitches or you can twist them as well it's up to you as we are working in the round and this is how to work the twisted knit stitches and a normal purl stitch and this is repeated from round to round until you have worked the number of rounds for the hem in your written pattern we will now bind off the stitches with the classic knit and purl bind off of course you can use any bind off method you like if you want to want to work an italian bind off i will link you a youtube tutorial in the comment section if you want to work the classic bind off like i do you can watch it here knit one stitch through the back loop purl the next stitch and then slip the stitch before over the stitch you have just worked and this is now repeated steadily until you have bound off all stitches you can now pick up the resting sleeve stitches if you have used those stitch holder cords it's very easy to slip the stitches back on your knitting needle i'm using short knitting needles with a short rope as they have proved to be most effective to me and making the knitting process of the sleeves much smoother here we are we have the stitches on our knitting needle again and now we need to pick up stitches under the armpits we will use our five millimeter knitting needle and two strands of yarn held together maybe you will work with one strand of fingering and one strand of lace weight yarn depending on the section of the pattern you are currently working on and then you pick up one stitch per one stitch and you pick up the number of stitches given in your pattern for the size you are knitting then place a stitch marker and now work the sleeves and stockinette stitch in the round with alternating reverse stockinette stitch stripes and lace pattern stripes for the cuffs we have a few options you can leave out the decreases for the sleeve cuffs or you can work decreases as instructed in the pattern and i always knit two stitches together to work those decreases and then i will knit a few stitches as recommended in the pattern and then i will work the next decrease it's up to you if you want to work sleeve decreases therefore you can knit two stitches together every other stitch as instructed in your written pattern and then you will work the matching cuffs in half twisted ribbing matching our collar or the body hem of our sweater and then you can bind off the sleeve stitches with the classic knit and purl bind off or you can use an elastic bind off the cuffs are now finished i have bound them off like i did bound off the body hem with the classic knit and purl bind off i worked a few decreases as demonstrated and now everything you have to do is to repeat the instructions to work up the second sleeve we can now pick up stitches for our double folded collar along our neckline we are working with one fingering weight yarn and one lace weight yarn and i recommend to pick up one stitch per one stitch or two stitches for three rows and i prefer to start at one edging at the shoulder line but of course you can start at the your back part as well it's up to you so pick up your stitches place a stitch marker and now start to work in half twisted ribbing with twisted knit stitches and normal purl stitches like you have worked for the body and the sleeve cuffs before work the number of rows in half twisted ribbing and then we will meet again to work the double folded collar the finishing of the double folded collar the collar was worked in half twisted ribbing and we are now ready to bind off the collar stitches and then we will sew it to the inside of our sweater you can knit and bind down the stitches as well in one step and therefore i have made up an entire youtube tutorial you can watch on my channel here i will show you the separate steps so we will use a classic knit bind off to bind off the collar stitches keep an eye out for your knitting tension that you don't bind off the stitches too tight otherwise your head might not fit through the hole here you can see the collar bind off with a classic knit bind off and now we will sew the cast off row to the inside of our sweater directly where we have picked up the stitches before you can turn the inside out if you prefer this will make it a little bit easier but you can work from the right side as well again keep an eye out for your knitting tension to not sew those edgings too tightly otherwise your head might not fit through the hole and now your double folded collar is finished your roni sweater is now ready for a good bath and then you should lay it down on your blocking mats to let it dry flat after washing and blocking we are going to weave in the ends and close the edgings of our ribbing for example at the cuffs here and then our roni sweater is ready to be worn i hope you had fun working up your version of the roni sweater and that you have enjoyed the pattern and the knitting pattern tutorial over here and i hope that you will enjoy wearing your sweater and to see you around next time over here on my instagram channel or somewhere else