The Japanese Empresses' Jewellery Collection. Classic and elegance.

The tale of tiaras in Japan traces back to the Meiji period, 1868 to 1912. With Japan embracing a new course, the era of national seclusion came to an end, making way for a phase of modernisation influenced by Western ideologies. It was within this context that Japan's first Prime Minister, Ito Hirobumi, issued an official decree in 1886, mandating the women of the imperial court to attire themselves in European fashion. In January 1887, Empress Haruko, consort of Emperor Meiji, adorned herself in courtly attire crafted by a German tailor in the Western style for the New Year celebrations. Simultaneously, she introduced the tiara into her ensemble. A photograph from 1889 captures Haruko adorned with the Meiji tiara, according to an article published in the daily newspaper Tokyo Nichinichi Shimbun on February 11, 1887. The imperial family commissioned the crafting of the tiara from the French jewellery house Chaumet. The price tag on this adornment amounted to tens of thousands of yen. The imperial diadem boasts a distinctive towering centrepiece, accentuated by a 21-carat diamond, ranking as the 13th largest globally. The upper section of the tiara takes the form of nine diamond stars, arranged in a circular fashion, a style popularised by the Austrian Empress Sisi. The upper part of the crown can be interchanged with circular elements, while the stars can serve as hair ornaments. A third design option excludes the upper elements of the crown. This adornment continues to be referred to as the Empress's first tiara. Passed down through successive first ladies for over 130 years, it symbolises status and authority. From Empress Haruko, the adornment was inherited by Empress Sadako, whose husband, Emperor Yoshihito, ascended the throne in 1912. Sadako favoured the tiara variation with circular diamonds. The subsequent consort of the Japanese Emperor, Empress Nagako, was photographed wearing the tiara in all three of its variations. She donned the adornment with diamond stars in November 1963 at a state banquet held in the Imperial Palace, in honour of the Federal President of Germany, Karl Heinrich Lübcke. A century after the creation of this jewel, in 1990, Empress Michiko complimented her regal ensemble with the Imperial Tiara in an official portrait. During her husband's reign, she wore the adornment solely with circular diamonds in the upper row. Another fascinating piece from the royal family is the Japanese Diamond Scroll Tiara. When Crown Prince Akihito of Japan wed Michiko Shoda in 1959, she received this impressive tiara with a diamond scroll motif and a diamond mirror necklace, along with the Japanese Pearl Sunburst Tiara. It remains unknown whether the parure was crafted by Mikimoto based on old family relics or commissioned recently from Mikimoto. Crown Princess Michiko wore the Diamond Scroll Tiara and Necklace for the first time on her wedding day, during an audience with the Emperor and Empress, and while parading through the streets of Tokyo after the traditional Shinto ceremony. Following the wedding, Crown Princess Michiko alternated between wearing the Diamond Scroll Tiara and the Pearl Sunburst Tiara, which I'll talk about a little later. From the early 1970s onwards, Crown Princess Michiko began wearing a smaller version of the Diamond Scroll Tiara and Necklace, with a diamond pendant suspended from it. After Emperor Akihito ascended the throne in 1989, Empress Michiko exclusively wore tiaras intended for Japanese Empresses, while the Diamond Scroll Tiara remained unworn until the wedding of Crown Prince Naruhito and Masako Iwada in 1993, who also wore the tiara on their wedding day. During the early years of their marriage, Crown Princess Masako predominantly wore the Diamond Scroll Tiara at numerous New Year receptions and state banquets before acquiring the Pearl Sunburst Tiara, which she predominantly wore over the following decades. Several decades later, the Diamond Scroll Tiara and Necklace appeared on Crown Princess Kiko at the enthronement ceremony of Emperor Naruhito at the Sokuire Seiden-no-gi ceremony in the Matsunoma State Room of the Imperial Palace. Quite recently, after a hiatus of several years due to the pandemic, Crown Princess Kiko wore the Diamond Scroll Tiara at a Japanese New Year reception earlier this year. There is no doubt that we will soon see this impressive family heirloom again. Another enchanting piece is the Chrysanthemum Tiara. It forms a triad of headpieces worn by the Japanese Empress, alongside the Meiji and Holi diadems. The Chrysanthemum flower serves as a symbol of supreme authority in the Eastern State. The throne upon which the ruler sits is dubbed the Chrysanthemum Throne. The country's seal visually resembles the 16 petals of the flower symbol, and the highest state honour is the Order of the Chrysanthemum. Therefore, the most significant tiara could be none other than one named after the sacred flower. Crafted from an Emperor's brooch in 1915, the Chrysanthemum Tiara was intended for Empress Taimei, the consort of Emperor Taisho. The creator, jeweler Mikimoto Kōhiti, was the first in the world to cultivate cultured pearls. Moreover, by the early 20th century, the Japanese had mastered platinum processing techniques. Thus, platinum became the foundation of this precious item. Exquisite diamond chrysanthemums framed by luxurious foliage adorn it. The centrepiece of the diadem is detachable, transforming the jewellery beauty into a corsage brooch. Currently, the Chrysanthemum Tiara belongs to the spouse of Japan's reigning Emperor Akihito, the Eastern First Lady named Michiko. Gracefully adorned with the sparkling brilliance of this Japanese wonder, the delicate and venerable ruler carries the dynasty's pride with special dignity, preserving its former splendour. One of the most exquisite tiaras in the Japanese monarchy is the Holly Tiara. In my opinion, it exudes more elegance and complements a delicate Japanese wearer beautifully. The main motif in its design is the palmette, with large elements depicting the leaves of the holly tree and interconnected. Naturally, a metallic frame is adorned with a sprinkling of diamonds. The first owner of the diadem was the wife of Prince Tetebu named Setsuko. Presumably this precious piece was a wedding gift as the young bride is captured wearing it in a photograph taken on that joyful day. The tiara was part of a parure, which also included a necklace with a similar ornament. The Holly Tiara is crafted in a traditional Japanese colour and style, but unlike two other similar adornments, it is not passed down among empresses. A princess may inherit the piece instead. Currently, it belongs to Michiko, but it is rarely showcased to the public. Now let me also tell you about the Sunburst Tiara. When Crown Prince Akihito of Japan married Michiko Shoda in 1959, she received a tiara and parure with diamonds, as well as a tiara with pearls and diamonds in the form of sunrays, along with a mirror necklace and a brooch in the shape of a pearl and diamond scroll. Crown Princess Michiko began wearing the Sunburst Tiara and parure shortly after the wedding, alternating them with the diamond scroll tiara I mentioned earlier, and they became favourites during overseas tours. The tiara remained a favourite for the next three decades. After Emperor Akihito ascended the throne in 1989, Empress Michiko exclusively wore tiaras intended for Japanese empresses, and the Sunburst Tiara and parure remained unworn until the mid-2000s, when they were gifted to the then Crown Princess Masako a few years after her marriage. During a state visit to Japan in 2014, Crown Princess Masako attended a state banquet at the Imperial Palace wearing the Sunburst Tiara and parure. Which tiara do you find most captivating? Share your thoughts in the comments!