MUST-SEE TUTORIAL!! PSE Dominator Duo X 40 Bow Switch RH-LH

Hey everybody, this is PJ Reilly from Lancaster Archery in our video studio today with kind of a special video. First off, we wanted to tell you a little bit about the PSE Dominator Duo X40. So that's the bow I'm holding right here and this is the latest iteration. PSE came out last year with the Dominator Duo. This is the Dominator Duo X and it is the 40 inch version. So we wanted to run through some of the specs of this quickly and then we're gonna show you one of the cool things about the Dominator Duo and the Dominator Duo X is that this bow is ambidextrous. And so we discovered that there is no video showing you how to switch it between right and left hand. So we're gonna do it for you. But first up, Dominator Duo X. This 40 inch axle to axle target bow and you're gonna have a draw length ranges across three different cams from 24 inches all the way up to 33 inches. That's gonna be, you're gonna have the EM2 cam, the M2 and the SE2, which is what I have here. Draw length on this is 27 and a half to 33 inches. So this is a bow that's gonna fix, that's gonna fit you big guys out there. Long draw archers, you're gonna be able to use this. So, but you know, from the Duo X or from the Duo to the Duo X, what did they change? They basically changed the riser design. Some of the cutouts in the Duo X are different from what they were in the Duo. Obviously that has to do with you get a bow for a year, figure out what you can tweak on it. They figured out some different cutouts just to change the feel, the stiffness and vibration. And then they also changed the cable arm and the cable slide. So those are the main things that they changed from the Duo to the Duo X. But you know, this bow is gonna be available in peak draw weights of 50 and 60 pounds. You're gonna have an adjustable stop right here that will allow you to change the lead off from 75%, where I have it now, to 70 to 65%. So you're gonna have those options for your lead off with this bow. But just, you know, it's a shoot-through riser, which is super stable, very popular, especially for indoor archery, that shoot-through riser. These things just hold great and they're super stiff, rigid. That's what we like in a target bow. But moving on to the big switch. Of course, with the Duo, PSE came out with, again, this is a bow, including the Duo X, that you can switch. Right now, I have it configured as a right hand. You can switch it to a left hand. And what we're noticing is that some folks did, there actually are some intricacies to making the switch from right hand to left hand that people we heard didn't know about. That's why we wanted to do this video. So we are gonna run through that for you because there are some steps that are not obvious just by looking at it. A lot of people just think, oh, you just take the limb assemblies, swap them, and flip the cable arm over. Well, there's a little more to it than that. Couple extra steps in there. So we are gonna run through that for you. And before I start, I just wanted to show you, you know, on the bow press here, I do have, this is a Last Chance Easy Green. I do have the Last Chance Limb Lock Kit. And this is my favorite setup of fingers for when you have to completely un-press a bow. You're gonna take the strings off and you're gonna completely relax it out. For me, these fingers here just make that process foolproof. You can do it with the regular fingers. This just makes me a lot more comfortable and you'll see why once we get to that point. But our first step, of course, is that we have to take all the strings off. So we're gonna do that. And, you know, if you're unsure of the configuration, you know, which cable goes where in terms of the, you know, where they cross and where they go through the cable slide. If you're not sure about that, it's real simple to just take a picture of it so that you know where, how these things set up. But one of the things that we're gonna do as we take this off, obviously, once I set up the bow, I'm gonna check timing. I'm gonna check, you know, all my specs to make sure that the brace height is right, the axle to axle. And all that has to do with twists in the cables. But, obviously, you can make your life a lot easier if you can do all this without losing any twists. So one thing that I like to do, there are many ways to do it. You know, I have this set of Allen wrenches right here and it's just easy, real simple for me to just do that and then I don't lose any twists. You can do it however you want, but that is a simple way to do it. Now I'm gonna take off my cable slide right there and with the way these, the harness, this is the Precision Bus Tuning System harness right here. The way they wrap around the cams, what I like to do is, you know, I took, I disconnected my top cable, I'll call that my top, disconnected it from the bottom so that what I wanna do is I wanna just unwind the cam. So now I have my bottom. This is the bottom cam here and then I can just unwind it from the cam. It's easier that way. I'm gonna take these off. This is what I call my bottom because I go call them top and bottom. If the harness is on the bottom, I consider that the bottom cable. That's my own terminology. So I know that my bottom one is gonna be right next to my bow string and then my top one will be next. Okay, once I have that done, now I need to completely relax the bow. So this is the Duo X40. I'm at about 42 and a half inches. That's where I'm pressed from. Just as a reference to where I need to press it back to, to where I can start putting my cables on. That's just something to remember so you know how much to press it. But with this being their biggest bow, I'm gonna max out this press in order to get the bow out of it. And it goes out to, I think it's 50 inches is what it goes out to. But you can see the limb lock, the way these fingers just contact the limbs the whole way, it just makes it nice. All right, and there we go. Now, what we're gonna do just for the camera here is we're gonna have a quick set change. I'm gonna put a table out here so I can work on that and we'll be right back. All right, so here we are. I've got my Dominator Duo X40 on the table here with the strings and cables off. One thing I do want to mention, two things I wanna mention. First off, why have a bow that you can switch from right to left-handed? Well, a couple reasons. I think probably the main reason is gonna be if you're a left-handed target archer especially, you know how difficult it is, how long you may have to wait to get access to a left-handed bows. The bow manufacturers just don't build those as readily as they do the right-handed ones. So if you're a pro shop, you can have one Dominator Duo X40 and it's either a left-handed or a right-handed option. So you get a customer comes in left-handed, boom, you can switch it around, set it up for them. You got a right-handed, switch it back, you've got it available. So it's easy in terms of inventory in the pro shop, every bow is right or left-handed. On top of that, you know, there are some archers, what we're seeing now is a couple archers who as they get older or as they get injuries, something, you know, they may be right-handed and they get an injury to one of their shoulders to where either they have to give up archery or they can try switching to their opposite hand, right-handed to left, left to right, whatever. And so this is a bow that will allow you to do that. You'll have one bow and you can set it up either way. So I think it's a good idea, especially for the pro shops, but other people can use it as well. But moving on anyway, something else that you need to pay attention to is the orientation of your EZ220 spacers. That's these devices right here. There's one on both sides of the cam and EZ220, what that is is they're different thicknesses. The combined thicknesses of both sides are gonna add up to 0.220 inches. That's the correct spacing for the cams on these bows. And so you just wanna, so as a right-handed configuration, I've got the 100 on the inside and the 120 on the outside. So just to start, I wanna remember that when I go to lefty, I need that switched. I'm gonna need the 100 on what would be the inside for the left-handed bow and the 120. So remember that configuration. So when you set it up as the opposite hand, you can make that adjustment. But first thing I'm gonna do is I'm going to pop the limbs off, very simple. And to start, I'm gonna leave them right here. So this is the top of the bow. So that's my top limb setup, bottom, bottom limb setup. Remember that. And then to start, just flip it over. And the first thing I'm gonna do is swap the cable arm. There are two pieces here. I just dropped one. So just make sure you get both pieces. And then when I flip it over, put the cable arm back, put the cable arm back, goes in here. Okay, now I've got that left-handed. Now, here's the part that I think a lot of people don't know about is we need to go in here and there's a piece behind this bolt called a flip chip. And we need to turn that 180 degrees. We're also going to take our anchor right here. This is what the limb bolt screws into is this right here. We're gonna flip that around. Those seem to be the parts that people are unaware of. And I'll show you what that looks like. Have to take the limb bolt all the way out. Okay, take that out. Now, my anchor back here, it only comes out one way. And the thing I need to remember is, so it comes out on the top as a right-handed, it comes out this way. What I'm gonna need to do when I switch it to left-handed is I'm gonna put it back in this way. So we need to remember that. Now, if I lift up the limb pocket here, right there, that's my flip chip. I have to take this out, turn it 180 degrees. And what you'll see, if you can get a nice closeup shot here is that it is not evenly divided. You can see this side is thinner than that side. That's what we're trying to set up. And it's just adjusting the limb pocket slightly. So that's the key part. If you don't switch that, the bow is not gonna perform the way it's supposed to. So we gotta take that out. This pops right out. See that? And again, we're gonna flip it 180 degrees and put it right back and close down my limb pocket. And remember, we took the anchor out from this side. Now we have to go in from this side. If you didn't do that, the limb bolt would not line up through here. Okay, got it down snug. And then obviously I'm gonna do the same thing on the bottom. Matthias Fullerton is shooting the Dominator Duo X. I don't know which length he is shooting, but obviously he's shooting this thing lights out as a target bow. Shot a 660 at the Lancaster Archery Classic this year. Won the special $20,000 shoot off. So it is an incredible bow. And then remember, take out our anchor. We're gonna put it in the other way. Get to our flip chip. Got it? Flip it 180 degrees, put it back. Take our anchor. Okay, so that's one of the biggest steps. Now what we need to do is we do have to swap our limbs. So this was the bottom. Now we go to the top. Top to the bottom. However, that's not all. You know, these limbs are different deflections. In other words, they have different flexings in them. And we need to get those set now for a left-handed shooter. So we swapped top to bottom. Now what we need to do is the way I like to do it is to just have my limbs set up like that so I don't forget anything. I need to take this one and swap it with this one. I need to take this one and swap it with that one. To do that, all I'm doing is taking the axle screw out. I just like to keep everything oriented because I am a forgetful person and I promise you I'll forget. So there is a sleeve in here. So obviously when I bring this limb around and bring it this way, the sleeve has to go in the other side. So make sure you do that. And again, I'm only gonna stick with what I'm working with or I will forget what I did. So take that one out, pop this one right back in. I'll get my easy 220s once I put them back in the bow. Remember bringing this around, switching. So I got to take out my sleeve and put it in this side. Okay, and then obviously now I got to do it with this side. It's done, okay. And then you'll see these holes in the limbs here. I don't know how easily you can see, but in there, there are posts. That's what you're just lining up in there. So it's real simple, over top, underneath, and then they're back in place. Same thing on the bottom. And now we are ready to go back to the bow press, put our strings and cables back on. So obviously we're gonna do another set change. All right, so here we are back at our bow press, ready to go in. One thing you want to make sure is that these tabs here are facing up. That's what holds your limbs in place. Just want to make sure that they're seated correctly before you start pressing, because the only way to move them is to completely unpress the bow. So we don't want to go back and do that. So just gonna start pressing here, make sure everything is locked in place. We just gotta press. I'm gonna go back to, it was 42 and a half, I think. It's about where I had it. Now, if I remember correctly, my first string assembly here was the top cam. So I'm gonna take that, take care not to lose my twist. If you lose a couple, I mean, it's not horrible. Again, we're gonna check everything when we set up the bow. But the thing to remember with the precision bus tuning is there's this side here that's closed, I'm gonna call it, versus this side here, which is open. The closed side is what faces the archer. So we wanna make sure that we're configured that way. So here is where we are gonna mount our cables. Got that on one side and a matching one on the other. If you need to set that down, I always just like to use the cable arm that keeps my twists in place. Okay, so one of the things that's unique about the PSE is right here, these cable tracks. And so I like to just roll the cam. You can see it, it's gonna go into, it's gonna naturally fall into the slots where it's supposed to go. You can see that right there, wraps around, boom. And then this is the position of the cam when it is fully assembled. So I'm just gonna let that sit right there. I'm gonna go to my bottom assembly, same thing. Got the assembly oriented that way. Okay, gonna wind on the cable. On this backside where the module is, I don't know if you can see it, but you're gonna have to just tuck that under. It actually goes under the module, but then it'll follow the track where it's supposed to go. Okay, so that is our position. Okay, so now I'm gonna connect my bottom cable right there. And I know that I want my top cable to go behind. And we'll cross them when we put the cable slide on, once I get the string on. And what PSE says is, you can see our X right here. We want the cross below the cable arm. Just remember that. All right, so now last piece is to put on my bow string. And if you're not sure how the bow string goes, you're always gonna notice on the PSE, I'm gonna have my center serving, and then I'm gonna have this served area. That goes over the string stop. So you always know this is the bottom of the string. This is the top of the string. So we will run this through. There it goes. You can see it, the string. Okay, now we want to put on, well, I'm gonna take some tension off a little bit, but before I do that, I wanna make sure everything is connected. We'll go over that again. I'm just gonna take a little, add a little tension. And now we have our cable slide. So with the cable slide on this bow, you always, you can see it's slanted. This goes closest to the riser, the high point there. So it's gonna go on like this. And now what PSE says is the cross of the cable should be below the cable arm. So I'm gonna take my cable that connects on the post to the top cam. So the precision bus is at the bottom. This is what I would call the bottom cable. That's my term. And then I'm gonna take the one with the precision bus at the top, and that's gonna be up here. And now you can see the orientation is correct because my cross is below and they're not touching each other. Those are the keys. You don't want any, you don't want these two rubbing together. So you know your orientation is correct when you set them up and there's a gap. Now I'm gonna check all my connection points. I've got the two split ends of the cable up here. I wanna make sure those are secured. I've got my cable on the backside of the cam. That is connected. And then of course I have my bow string. Same thing down at the bottom. Oh, see, already it slid off when I wasn't paying attention. So got that into position now. And actually it caused my bow string to come off. So that's why we always check all the connection points. My cables are all connected. My string is now properly seated. We're good to unpress the bow. I always like to check it again anyway, even though I already checked it. Everything is correct. And now we have correctly taken our PSE Dominator Duo X from right-handed to a left-handed bow. It really is just that simple. If you like this video, give us thumbs up. If you wanna see more videos like it, subscribe to our YouTube channel. Don't forget to click that bell to get notifications whenever we put out new videos. As always, if you have any questions, you can visit us at LancasterArchery.com.